what could be rattling in rear shocks area?
07-31-2010, 11:34 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
what could be rattling in rear shocks area?
i had a shop put new shocks in the rear of my 95 maxima and the noise went away and slowly came back, it sounds like a loose bolt or loose hubcaps. i even took off my hubcaps and noise is still their kinda sounds like caliper is rattling every bump i hit soft or hard it rattles sounds like crap.
i jacked it up and knocked the hell out of the tire with hammer and cant hear it even when jacked down cant find out this problem. they told me bad shocks cause rattle noises from under the car but their new now. its comming from the rear driver side tire i can open my door and hear it loud.
what could it be? thanks
i jacked it up and knocked the hell out of the tire with hammer and cant hear it even when jacked down cant find out this problem. they told me bad shocks cause rattle noises from under the car but their new now. its comming from the rear driver side tire i can open my door and hear it loud.
what could it be? thanks
07-31-2010, 12:28 PM
#2
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 61
it could be your rear bearings are wearing out. Not saying that is definitely the cause, but a good possibility. If the springs are not put back to eliminate noise (can't recall the correct phrase right now......anti rattle clips?) then your calipers can jostle about freely. I recall when I did my brakes there were small springs that fitted onto the brake pads. Basically, when the brakes were released, they would press the pads into the caliper. Were those not refitted, it could cause some noise.
Since you took it to a shop, they should take you and the car for a test drive and give you a plausible explanation for their botched job and a solution that makes sense(and they don't charge you for it), or they are not worth any repeat business. I'm just a shade tree DIYer and I've not had any issues with noise after a brake pad change. If they try to charge you money for completing a badly done job, they deserve a boot in the a$$.
Since you took it to a shop, they should take you and the car for a test drive and give you a plausible explanation for their botched job and a solution that makes sense(and they don't charge you for it), or they are not worth any repeat business. I'm just a shade tree DIYer and I've not had any issues with noise after a brake pad change. If they try to charge you money for completing a badly done job, they deserve a boot in the a$$.
07-31-2010, 12:47 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
well they did a good job the noise was their every since day one when i bought it 50k miles ago, the rear pads i never changed only the fronts are new, their is damn good shape and rotors, the noise sounds exactly like a loose hubcap or loose caliper but everything is tight. the noise went away for a while but its back now that was first time i heard my car roll down the road so quiet and now its back damnit.
i dont know how else to see where its comming from besides drive and walk next to it,
i dont know how else to see where its comming from besides drive and walk next to it,
07-31-2010, 07:28 PM
#4
well they did a good job the noise was their every since day one when i bought it 50k miles ago, the rear pads i never changed only the fronts are new, their is damn good shape and rotors, the noise sounds exactly like a loose hubcap or loose caliper but everything is tight. the noise went away for a while but its back now that was first time i heard my car roll down the road so quiet and now its back damnit.
i dont know how else to see where its comming from besides drive and walk next to it,
i dont know how else to see where its comming from besides drive and walk next to it,
07-31-2010, 07:38 PM
#6
07-31-2010, 09:04 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
wow I've owned this car almost a year and a half and am ALWAYS fixing other peoples cars and never found my own problem.
well i found out its the rear driver side caliper is loose, well not really but it feels loose and makes that annoying noise now the bolts are tight is hell. what could be wrong with them?
the problem was i have a really bad habbit of pulling my ebrake everywhere i go even know its automatic my first automatic lol that when i got out the caliper was frose onto the rotor cause e brake was pulled and thats why it always felt tight to me haha.
so do i need to replace the caliper? or what causes this?
well i found out its the rear driver side caliper is loose, well not really but it feels loose and makes that annoying noise now the bolts are tight is hell. what could be wrong with them?
the problem was i have a really bad habbit of pulling my ebrake everywhere i go even know its automatic my first automatic lol that when i got out the caliper was frose onto the rotor cause e brake was pulled and thats why it always felt tight to me haha.
so do i need to replace the caliper? or what causes this?
07-31-2010, 10:56 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
I had this same problem for over 3months and it drove me crazy... mechanics had check everything in the rear and came up with nothing until I decided to take alook myself and behold while checking my rear brake it notice that my calipers did not have the brake hardware kit installed back on from when I had my car inspected. Brought some from a local store for $10.00 installed them and problem solved.
07-31-2010, 11:08 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
I guarantee once you replace those brake hardware kits on both side you rattling sound will be gone. they're is nothing else in the rear that will make that sound away unless your rear end is shot to hell. First do this.. find the bumpiest road while going over the bumps hit the brake hard... if the rattling stop while going over the bumps it's the hardware kit not holding the brake pads in place causing them to bounce between the caliper and rotor. making that god awful sound like your ride is a piece of crap....
Good luck
Good luck
07-31-2010, 11:17 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
yea it forsure the damn caliper lol.
what do i ask for when i go to autozone? ask for brake pad shims, or anti rattle shims or whats the name? also i read that gooey **** you put on the backsides of the pads helps also.
what do i ask for when i go to autozone? ask for brake pad shims, or anti rattle shims or whats the name? also i read that gooey **** you put on the backsides of the pads helps also.
07-31-2010, 11:50 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
ask for the brake hardware kit.... I got mines from pepboys for $9.99 you don't need that gooey crap. the hardware kit takes care of that
08-01-2010, 06:53 AM
#13
I had this same problem for over 3months and it drove me crazy... mechanics had check everything in the rear and came up with nothing until I decided to take alook myself and behold while checking my rear brake it notice that my calipers did not have the brake hardware kit installed back on from when I had my car inspected. Brought some from a local store for $10.00 installed them and problem solved.
08-01-2010, 08:40 AM
#14
Ok so I am going to replace those clips when I plan to do the brake pads. Now, what about the loose caliper? Although the bolts Travis said were tight, what else can you do to prevent the caliper from moving?
08-01-2010, 03:45 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
I think only the brake hardware. i went to pepboys it was $16.99 and autozone $8.99 pepboys had a nice set of ceramic pads for $21.99 and they already have the anti rattle plates on the pads from what it looked like i think im just gonna wait and bye those pads i never changed my rear brakes and rotors look great shape.
i let my friend take the car to the store a few months ago and when he came back my rear brakes were SMOKIN and stinkin he forgot to take off the e brake and said he was wondering why it was running like ****, so im sure they need changing.
i let my friend take the car to the store a few months ago and when he came back my rear brakes were SMOKIN and stinkin he forgot to take off the e brake and said he was wondering why it was running like ****, so im sure they need changing.
08-01-2010, 07:35 PM
#16
08-01-2010, 08:33 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
I think only the brake hardware. i went to pepboys it was $16.99 and autozone $8.99 pepboys had a nice set of ceramic pads for $21.99 and they already have the anti rattle plates on the pads from what it looked like i think im just gonna wait and bye those pads i never changed my rear brakes and rotors look great shape.
i let my friend take the car to the store a few months ago and when he came back my rear brakes were SMOKIN and stinkin he forgot to take off the e brake and said he was wondering why it was running like ****, so im sure they need changing.
i let my friend take the car to the store a few months ago and when he came back my rear brakes were SMOKIN and stinkin he forgot to take off the e brake and said he was wondering why it was running like ****, so im sure they need changing.
08-01-2010, 08:38 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
I can't see the caliper moving around if you have the bolts tighten and lub... those hardware kit seem to wear out after awhile and don't hold the pads snug enough to keep them from moving. that's the only then that should be moving around is the pads if have rattling sounds coming from the calipers area.
08-01-2010, 08:40 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
08-01-2010, 08:47 PM
#20
I find it weird that so many people have problems with hardware missing on their brakes. Anyway. Just in case the hardware isn't the problem:
Have you made sure the caliper isn't frozen? If the piston is stuck 'in' with no force against the pad, it will often cause a rattling sound.
Have you made sure the caliper isn't frozen? If the piston is stuck 'in' with no force against the pad, it will often cause a rattling sound.
08-01-2010, 08:54 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
I find it weird that so many people have problems with hardware missing on their brakes. Anyway. Just in case the hardware isn't the problem:
Have you made sure the caliper isn't frozen? If the piston is stuck 'in' with no force against the pad, it will often cause a rattling sound.
Have you made sure the caliper isn't frozen? If the piston is stuck 'in' with no force against the pad, it will often cause a rattling sound.
08-01-2010, 10:41 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
im sure caliper isn't frozen brakes are damn good and e brake works and rear pads have over 50k miles on them.
imma change the pads next couple days one day not sure. do they screw in or do i need a c clamp?
yea its crazy because theirs so many mechanics that had no idea what noise was and i read on google lots of people with new vehicles have same problem and took it back to dealer 16 times before they finnaly found out it was the caliper hardware lol
imma change the pads next couple days one day not sure. do they screw in or do i need a c clamp?
yea its crazy because theirs so many mechanics that had no idea what noise was and i read on google lots of people with new vehicles have same problem and took it back to dealer 16 times before they finnaly found out it was the caliper hardware lol
08-02-2010, 12:10 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
im sure caliper isn't frozen brakes are damn good and e brake works and rear pads have over 50k miles on them.
imma change the pads next couple days one day not sure. do they screw in or do i need a c clamp?
yea its crazy because theirs so many mechanics that had no idea what noise was and i read on google lots of people with new vehicles have same problem and took it back to dealer 16 times before they finnaly found out it was the caliper hardware lol
imma change the pads next couple days one day not sure. do they screw in or do i need a c clamp?
yea its crazy because theirs so many mechanics that had no idea what noise was and i read on google lots of people with new vehicles have same problem and took it back to dealer 16 times before they finnaly found out it was the caliper hardware lol
Last edited by najee1062; 08-02-2010 at 12:15 PM.
08-02-2010, 02:58 PM
#25
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 61
on my brakes there is a spring that hooked into holes in the pads themselves. They served to press the pads AWAY from the rotor. Are these springs in place? There should be one on either end of the pads, and look like a bent piece of wire.
08-02-2010, 03:05 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
Are you speaking of the rear brakes or your front?
08-03-2010, 05:44 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
wow the whole time i had this maxima i thought the CAR was rattling not the brake caliper lol i figured 295k miles hell id be rattling too lol, well i threw a good pare of pads that came with the shims already on the pads i got them for 21.99 pep boys and installed them and holly crap am i happy! the car sounds like a brand new car now doesn't make ANY NOISES lol im not used to that.
the calipers both sides were a damn BICHHHH to screw back in im not sure why but i sat their an hour on each side with pair of pliers turning and turning and turning and turning and turning and getting nowhere lol, id have to turn them 15 times hammer the hell out the piston then turn them nother 15 the hammer over and over and over lol they were a pain. but well worth it.
also on both sides the rubber boot was worn and falling apart i ripped them completely off the piston is that bad or should it be ok? i figure ill change the calipers next brake change since they were a bichhh to screw back in.
the calipers both sides were a damn BICHHHH to screw back in im not sure why but i sat their an hour on each side with pair of pliers turning and turning and turning and turning and turning and getting nowhere lol, id have to turn them 15 times hammer the hell out the piston then turn them nother 15 the hammer over and over and over lol they were a pain. but well worth it.
also on both sides the rubber boot was worn and falling apart i ripped them completely off the piston is that bad or should it be ok? i figure ill change the calipers next brake change since they were a bichhh to screw back in.
08-03-2010, 07:57 PM
#28
You took the boots off? Personally, I would order the rebuild kit now and do it ASAP. Or, buy calipers. My $.02
08-03-2010, 09:00 PM
#30
Well, the piston boot is there to keep the road debris, brake dust, water, and anything else from damaging the piston seal. The piston seal keeps the brake fluid in the caliper. Damaged piston seal = bad day. Rebuilding now > crisis later. You get the picture.
08-03-2010, 10:15 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
wow the whole time i had this maxima i thought the CAR was rattling not the brake caliper lol i figured 295k miles hell id be rattling too lol, well i threw a good pare of pads that came with the shims already on the pads i got them for 21.99 pep boys and installed them and holly crap am i happy! the car sounds like a brand new car now doesn't make ANY NOISES lol im not used to that.
the calipers both sides were a damn BICHHHH to screw back in im not sure why but i sat their an hour on each side with pair of pliers turning and turning and turning and turning and turning and getting nowhere lol, id have to turn them 15 times hammer the hell out the piston then turn them nother 15 the hammer over and over and over lol they were a pain. but well worth it.
also on both sides the rubber boot was worn and falling apart i ripped them completely off the piston is that bad or should it be ok? i figure ill change the calipers next brake change since they were a bichhh to screw back in.
the calipers both sides were a damn BICHHHH to screw back in im not sure why but i sat their an hour on each side with pair of pliers turning and turning and turning and turning and turning and getting nowhere lol, id have to turn them 15 times hammer the hell out the piston then turn them nother 15 the hammer over and over and over lol they were a pain. but well worth it.
also on both sides the rubber boot was worn and falling apart i ripped them completely off the piston is that bad or should it be ok? i figure ill change the calipers next brake change since they were a bichhh to screw back in.
get this brake repair kit http://www.partstrain.com/store/deta...?location=Rear
brake fluid
if you need instruction let me know cost was about $25.oo all together and you will have brakes like brand new...
08-04-2010, 05:35 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
i think ill wait and do that or just wait till they give out cause im lookin for a new job noew and if i get in where i think im getting in then i can quit my crappy job and ill have much more money and am doin the 3.5 swap along with brake upgrade and drop springs.
08-04-2010, 07:28 PM
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Hartford, CT
Posts: 16
if u hear a rattling coming from the trunk area, and its not ur brakes or shocks, check the 10mm nut holding ur car jack in place... i once had the issue and it turned out that the nut was loose, so it rattled over every bump... weird thing to check but it can happen lol
08-05-2010, 11:56 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
if u hear a rattling coming from the trunk area, and its not ur brakes or shocks, check the 10mm nut holding ur car jack in place... i once had the issue and it turned out that the nut was loose, so it rattled over every bump... weird thing to check but it can happen lol
08-05-2010, 04:29 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NJ - South, Mullica Hill
Posts: 7
Have never done brakes before. I know my pads still have plenty left on them how hard is it to install this hardware kit? anyone have any pictures?
08-05-2010, 08:15 PM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
08-05-2010, 08:21 PM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,432
putting the hardware in takes just about the entire process of changing the pads except pushing the caliper piston back in its eazy, off the tire off the 2 14mm caliper bolts pull claiper back and install hardware your good to go.
and yes thanks alot guys, i am still happy now when im driving by some hot bichs i wont duck or look away LOL
and yes thanks alot guys, i am still happy now when im driving by some hot bichs i wont duck or look away LOL
08-05-2010, 10:48 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
putting the hardware in takes just about the entire process of changing the pads except pushing the caliper piston back in its eazy, off the tire off the 2 14mm caliper bolts pull claiper back and install hardware your good to go.
and yes thanks alot guys, i am still happy now when im driving by some hot bichs i wont duck or look away LOL
and yes thanks alot guys, i am still happy now when im driving by some hot bichs i wont duck or look away LOL
08-06-2010, 03:34 PM
#40
putting the hardware in takes just about the entire process of changing the pads except pushing the caliper piston back in its eazy, off the tire off the 2 14mm caliper bolts pull claiper back and install hardware your good to go.
and yes thanks alot guys, i am still happy now when im driving by some hot bichs i wont duck or look away LOL
and yes thanks alot guys, i am still happy now when im driving by some hot bichs i wont duck or look away LOL
Ok so after following this thread, is it safe to say everytime you do your pads, you should replace your brake hardware as well??