Reece616

iTrader: (3)

First of all, I replaced both rear calipers, rotors, and pads last year (2008) around Christmas time, and every time I park my car, I use the e-brake, it's just become a habit....
The problem started yesterday. I used the e-brake and I heard something, I'm not sure what, and after that, the e-brake was very easy to pull at the beginning and as I lifted it, it became harder to pull. As I drove home the car felt sluggish (like the brakes were dragging.) When i got out, it was clear that they were. I could smell it and feel it when I put my hand near the brakes.
The driver-rear caliper appears to be stuck.
I searched, and came to the conclusion that something happened with the cable so I removed the wheel and disabled the e-brake cable from the caliper. Put the wheel back on, drove in reverse for ~75 ft (i read to reset the ebrake), but still no good. I checked the brake fluid, it was below the cold min level, filled it up, tried reverse again, still nothing...

Is there anything else I can try short of removing/replacing the caliper?
Any info would be great.
Thanks in advanced.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I had this happen. It was the piston.

Just put new brakes (calipers, rotors, pads) on a month ago and been fine since. E-Brake is working great now too.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

Looks like someones gotta replace his rear calipers =[ sorry bud...

but before you do so; check to make sure the line isnt magically seized; and if your really feeling lucky try to turn in the piston..

Reece616

iTrader: (3)

I just replaced them both a little over a year ago though. What are the chances of it only lasting that long when the originals lasted about 10 years?

Reece616

iTrader: (3)

Spent a couple hours checking out the rear caliper tonight...
I found the problem... but it's not totally fixed.

The parking brake lever (part #4) had somehow been turn CCW when i pulled the ebrake (the sound I mentioned that I had hear when I pulled it yesterday.) I moved it back to the correct position and the wheel, i mean rotor, spun very easily (it wouldn't move prior.) I put everything back the way it was supposed to and took it for a drive. Everything seemed good... until i tried to use the ebrake again. I heard the sound again, and i could tell the brake was dragging again. I fixed the lever again but just left the e-brake cable off to avoid this problem again. Part number 6 in the picture seemed loose though, and i feel that's the root of the problem.

I would prefer to have the ebrake working, but I'll have to deal without it for the time being. If anyone has any idea how to repair this, short of replacing the whole caliper, I would love to hear it.
Thanks for the input guys.

xI3obMar1eyx

Had the same exact problem happen to my car today going to school. Turned around and had to take my moms maxima. Her power steering went on the way there.

smai555

read this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-e-brake.html

if it is the caliper pin/slider you can pull it out and re-lube it

also check to make sure the the cable your pulling off slides freely back and fourth

there is a spring that pulls the cable back to release the caliper from the rotor its like 4 bucks from the dealer (and thats the only place i found it) give that a try if you want

xI3obMar1eyx

Happened to me again today. Im thinking the cold weather has something to do with it as well because when i came home from school yesterday, it was fine again and the ebrake worked. Its been 4 degrees the past two days tho so its too cold to even go out and look at it right now :-(

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Cold weather usually suggests your e-brake cable is punctured and water got inside. Then it ices up and refuses to move.

rconway91

yeah my e barke keeps braking... I got a new cable and all that but is cheap and boot at the end broke and now i gotta replace it again.

rconway91

Also i was wondering if anyone knew of somewhere online that would sell specific sizes of rubber boot things.

rconway91

WHere would you get a good quality E brake cable? all the ones i find online are cheap and will probably fail qiuckly like the one i just bought

smai555

i would check a hardware store that has weird stuff (theres an ace in my city that always seem to have the weirdest part oddest parts but i always seem to find what im looking for)

otherwise the stealer... i mean dealer

i bought a used set from someone parting out a car i added lube and im crossing my fingers

ivorton23

yea jus had that happen 2 me. check the link that smai555 put up...that was my thread. i just kept playing with the lever over & over and moved the car back and forth and it came loose. ill fix mine wen its warm cuz my max is a 5spd n i need my ebrake.

SilverbulletMax

u most likely gunna have to get new pads rotors n calipers

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Napa. About $65/side.

msktyshha

how is it stuck

madman81

My drivers side rear brake just did same thing. Drove it last night and it was fine. Drove it around neighborhood today and came back and it was smoking. If it is caliper, which I hope it is not, I don't have to replace both sides do I?

smai555

if its the caliper you might just need to relube the pins

acet

iTrader: (2)

No need to replace whole caliper. You have a seized caliper. Either the piston is seized or the guide pin. You can always rebuild your caliper with new seals for SOO much less than the price of new caliper.

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

Good luck getting the piston out of the caliper if the piston is seized. Which is 99% of the time on these type of calipers.

They are design failures. I have changed out at least 4 or 5 sets from different Nissan cars with these kinds of calipers. All the pistons were seized with rust on the sides. You can sand down the piston to remove the rust, but the metal is already pitted and it will most likely rust again.

acet

iTrader: (2)

I can't argue with you as I simply don't know if it is possible or not. I was simply giving my point of view.

However, the piston metal is always porous. If the seal is not damaged, what would allow the moisture to enter the chamber? The break fluid wouldn't make it rust. Now don't get me wrong, I'm just debating out loud. I'm not trying to offend anyone and by no means am I questioning your knowledge. I'm just going based on my experience. Here is the thread from my rebuild:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1283237

But if you say it's a design flaw, then be it. I have 98 SE calipers for sale if anyone wants them

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

Generally all the rubber seals fail too, allowing moisture to enter and rust to form. All moisture needs is a small pinhole.

The rebuild on your BMW calipers is much easier because the pistons are not the types that you need to "turn" to get out. Unfortunately, the ones on the Nissan are the ones that need turning and those won't come out easily.

I'll do a pictorial on the next set I do.

acet

iTrader: (2)

Clearly your knowledge on Maximas exceeds mine and I see what you're saying. Ohh well, at least it's a good excuse for a BBK right?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Not really. If it were it would weep brake fluid rather than let water in.

Rebuilding calipers is a calculated risk on all vehicles with some mileage. The rust makes rebuilding them a mess and IMO not worth the effort. I buy reman calipers from Napa - reasonable price and good quality.

Dave