TheRooki3

Geewhiz that's a lot of money....guess I got off like a bandit...btw...still just cranks but no start...guess I'll run the codes again and see what I get...wonder how slow yotas doing...we need an update

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

I've been reading this thread since Saturday because Friday I got a flat tire. Fixed the flat, then went to my friend's house. 2hrs later tried to leave and all my car did was "click". Saturday I cleaned the little bit of corrision on my cables and then proceeded to crank but not fire to life.

Fuel pump was priming. Could smell fuel when I flooded the thing. Cleaned cam, crank sensors. Sanded down the negative ground and the posts. Tried jumping the car. Tried jumping it while grounding to the strut bolt. Came to life and then died 2 seconds later. We were able to get to come to life one more time but then die.

Had it towed home. Monday came home from work and decided to check codes again see if by chance thrown any since Sunday while working on it. 0505. But I noticed how quiet it was when I turned the key to ON. I turned it to ON several times...........no fuel pump. Fiddled with fuses real quick since I messed with them all weekend make sure they were in their correct spots. Turned it to ON again......nothing. After all weekend it was priming just fine, it officially gave out. And explains why the car started and then died.

Moral of the story here is. Definitely make sure your pump isn't weak or anything. It maybe on its way out even though it maybe priming currently.

TheRooki3

Good point....i'll add that to the list...perhaps the fuel filter's bad (never changed it since i've acquired it) i can kill 2 birds with one stone changing the fuel filter (correct me if i'm wrong)...i can 1.) see if the fuel filter needs changing, and B.) see if fuel is even flowing..to be honest with you, the max used to start on the 5th-7th time trying to crank it....but now it doesn't want to start at all...where did you guys get your fuel filters also? Auto have good ones? Thanks in advance

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

Get a Z32 300zx fuel filter from the dealer. About $15.

TheRooki3

The dealers in my area (Boston,MA) aren't too helpful unfortunately....they seemed like the wanted to get off the phone quickly when i called them and one (in Cambridge, MA) doesn't even have a parts department...should i keep looking for a z32 fuel filter or is there an alternative? ...oh btw they can special order it, and (i guess they changed the price) it's now $25 a pop

cashoit

did u replace the CKPS REF and CPS yet

TheRooki3

Yes....still no fire...just cranks...on the verge of getting a fuel filter (autozone) so I can see if its getting gas and for the sake of changing the filter

TheRooki3

ok....updated..i took the fuel filter off and i could only assume that it's getting fuel (fuel came out of the out/top part of the filter).....question..i ran the codes again (after changing the crankshaft sensor (down below next to the radiator), and the cam sensor(where the timing is) but i'm still getting the 0407 code...did i get a defective sensor? or did i just change the wrong sensor?....yikes...

cashoit

there is no 0407 code. U must have read it wrong. Did u replace with new sensors? I am willing to bet u have fuel and pump is working. Check wiring from both CKPS and CPS to ECU. Make sure no shorts. Its somethin electrical

TheRooki3

Thanks for your response...i appreciate it...you guys are awesome!!..ok this is dumb of me but i changed the crankshaft sensor (in front) rather than the crankshaft (ref) sensor back (next to the oil filter) ....so i bought that and changed it and now it sounds like it wants to start with every turn...but it's weird because everytime i recheck the codes...the same codes come up...(4 slow, 7 fast = crankshaft position sensor ref.....1 slow, 1 fast = cam position sensor....3 slow, 4 fast = knock sensor, and NOW 8 slow, 2 fast = crankshaft position sensor) do i have to reset the ecu? or are these part defective too?

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

www.courtesyparts.com for fuel filter if you want to change it.

You can also just get a stock one if you'd like.

TheRooki3

Thanks so much 4DR...I got one at autozone...but ill get all my future parts from there...

Ok update: I reset my ecu and now I got 0505 (5 slow, and 5 fast)...sounds like it wants to start but the starter stops abruptly at time and the lights go dim....one time while I was trying to start it and the starter made a grinding sound as if the car was running already....other times when I try to start it, it makes a click and no cranking at all (as if the starter teeth was stuck onto something)

max2di4

iTrader: (-1)

ok, my car finally started. Would you believe it was my starter. I tried everything cam sensor, crank sensors, grounding kit, fuel pump, filter and voltage check but not once did I think about the starter as the car was cranking strong but would not turn over..

it was the starter all along. In the begining the car would start after 5 or 6 cranks and I am guess the starter was going and eventually something burn out inside of it.

If you have not check your starter I would say do so, 2 weeks later as this was my problem.

Good Luck.

TheRooki3

Awesome! Good job man! I'm thinking about doing the same thing myself.....when I first got it...my max didn't crank at all...then I went out to the junkyard and got a starter (in the junkyard) and now it cranks.....(But won't fire)..where did you get your starter from? Ebay? I might go that route also

cashoit

kid you are pissin me off with this nickle and dime shyt lol

jus hit Autozone. They got the starter for 130 and lifetime warranty.

If u got codes for the CPS and 2 CKPS then they are defective. Check the harness that the wires are still good and attached to connectors. If u got the sensors from the JY or ebay then shame on u man. Get new ones.

wesmantooth1

Not hijacking the thread or anything, but slowyota not responding, so i'll kindly inform of my result.
Rooki3, I got mine started! This after testing the starter, Oreilly's wouldn't exchange mine with a lifetime warranty, b/c it tested good. Cam sensor was good, hadn't gotten to the crank sensors yet. Batt was good. Anyways, after many sessions with multimeter, testing coils, looking for spark (always had fuel , or was pretty sure, since i smelled gasoline from the sparkplug hole anyways, and could hear the pump), i still wasn't getting any spark, but wasn't sure if i was doing the test correctly, holding the coil with plug attached, touching it to the valve cover, etc. I broke down and took it somewhere's as it's my daily driver, and time was running out. Amazing how people start hounding you about taking it somewhere when all you're doing is trying to save a bit of money. Shade tree mechanic with a little more experience with electric bits found the ground from the computer wasn't clean. He said it's in the engine bay, i think in front of the battery, but once he cleaned that off, was perfect. That's why it wasn't getting spark, no good ground! Running good now, new plugs, even corrected a nagging issue with hesitation/bucking on acceleration (from 30-50mph), is smooth now.

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Im lost on mine, I have no spark.
I did find that out.If it has something to do with the harness
or sub harness..This car may be getting parted.
Im about done with it.

dreek96max

Where is the ground to the computer located again.... my max will crank and crank and crank then it will start after i turn the key off and try cranking again after about 8 tries but i would love to know where the ground is that he found..Please

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Its right in front of the battery and rectangle fuse box on the drivers side.
I sanded mine down..No luck.

wesmantooth1

I'm pulling for ya Yota, don't give up! Try testing that condensor that distributes spark to the ignition coils. It's in front of the valve cover, taped to the wiring before the front spark plug wiring to each of the coils. There was a spec in the Haynes manual about it reading a certain resistance (tested w/ a multimeter). It's easy anyways to give it a try.

If you have already confirmed spark, then I apologize, as this thread has gotten long and I may not remember all.

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

Am I missing something?? Unless you are a mechanic by trade there is no shame in seeking a professional mechanics advice. Diagnostics are not always easy.

If you cannot fix the car then take it to a shop and ask them to do a diagnostic which will be 1-2 hours of labor. If it is something simple then they will usually wave the diagnostic fee if you allow them to repair it. Even if that means taking your car to the dealer, it's worth it. Unless your car is a bucket why would you give up and part it out? Now if you don't have money for a 2 hour diagnostic then that's another problem altogether.

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

No, Its a very nice car.But it does has 200k and is also a 3rd car so... I am not a mechanic but My dad is and he's been trying to figure this out along with me and if i was to take it to a another mechanic...Things may get a bit ugly.lol

And no, I'm not getting spark.
i think the problem may be in the harness somewhere
and if thats the case, it could take 20 hours for a mechanic
to find the culprit wire.. idk.

Push come to shove i'd prolly have a diagnostic place take a look at it.
and then go from there...stay tuned.

cashoit

Im with yota... it has to be electrical. Problem is gotta find the wire. That could take some time and not a lotta space to work in that engine bay anyways.

If ya cant find it, this may be one for org loss column

wesmantooth1

My "shade tree" was actually a guy with two bays in a remote part of town, was recommended though for honest work. I had it towed there, and he found the faulty ground wire after maybe 2.5 hours of labor. All said, came to $245 with the tow included. Aggravating, yes, but I honestly think I would've never found it. And he said he had trouble finding it as well (obviously, 2.5 hr labor worth). I'm not sure the exact amount of labor, b/c he's kind of a "no receipts" kinda guy.
Back of a paper napkin is about the best he'll do. I was highly doubtful he'd find it, and was genuinly surprised when he did.

Anyways, mine was down a full week, very aggravating.

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

This is what I mean..He could of worked for 20 mins and said he worked for 10 hrs, 15 or 30 and they can charge whatever they want.And yea these engine bays are about a 9 out of a 10 when it comes to how tight and difficult they are to work in...In my expierence anyways.
My dad and I agreed it is beyond us and that its getting towed to try and trace the problem.So...We'll see but I'd bet my supra its some half burnt wire somewhere between the ecu and Cam-CPS

I did have an idea though...My only code I'm getting is the Cam pos sensor..What If I spliced into the cam sensor..Guessing that the white would positive and hook it up to the positive side of the battery..?
It'd bypass the need of that wire thats shorted somewhere..stupid or genius?

wesmantooth1

I understand what your'e saying, but owning a business where he/whoever charges tens of hours in labor on a car that old is not good business sense. He knows that you aren't going to pay a $700 bill for just labor, b/c he'll have trouble collecting, and you will likely do what you mentioned, which is ditch the car w him. My bro's home theater business does it all the time, tshoot something till your blue in the face, then give a reduced bill b/c no one in their right mind is going to pay it. Of course i didn't think he could fix mine, but whaddya know, he found it, God bless em! And i had him convinced it was the computer (ECM), and he shook his head and said it could be, and that those cases are a beeotch. I was amazed at his persistence, instead of running out and buying another ECM at $300 plus bucks, b/c i was within minutes of doing that myself. I'm glad I didn't. Of course hindsight is always 20/20, so it's a tough call. Look for someone in craigslist even, with some better diagnostic equipment, with nothing to lose.

Who knows, it was tough for me, to throw in the towel. Mixed emotions, as i thought there was still a chance I could find it. My wife is venezuelan so she acted as sort of broker, she always finds a way to get in good with these guys, whether it be the tile guy, carpet cleaning, patio remodeling, etc. All i know is it's fixed now, and it's a relief. throwing a p1320 code now thought.. dangit (misfire i believe, that's for another thread though).

If anyone tires of this back and forth, abandon ye thread now...!

wesmantooth1

Hey, thinking about this further, i understand Yota's position a bit more. You've got like three cars, of course i was a little more motivated as it's my daily driver, and I have kids I have to transport around. Your call I'm just all wrapped up in this, some outside the automotive world would say I'm obsessed, that I spent the better part of a week trying to diagnose my own issue.

wesmantooth1

As far as the Cam position sensor, Haynes says to "Refer to the wiring diagrams and check the wiring harness for an open circuit to the ECM or a damaged harness. Check for continuity to ground on the black wire of the harness connector. If the sensor and the wiring harness are both good, have the ECM diagnosed by a dealer service dept. "


I asked Nissan if they could test a ECM outside of the vehicle, they said no.

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Well dont know if anyone caught the idea about the CPS but ........... IT WORKED !

I spiced some wire going from the postive feed on the headlamps to the Positive wire on the cam sensor Which is the black wire as I found out before almost electrocuting myself..lol.

Was an awesome feeling to hear her crank and fire almost instantly, I was in semi dis belief.I punched the gas to about 3000 rpm and she threw a rod.

lol..No i'm kidding She sounded better than I even remember.

My case is closed.
I think this thread should be a sticky in honor to all cranking but non starting Maxima's.

I think after all this I will be selling her, people have their tax checks, Summer is coming and a new turbo set up is calling my name.

Thank you to my e - maxima friends that helped me in this journey..
Namely cashoit, wesmantooth1 & smai555 =]

wesmantooth1

Awesome!! What a good feeling that is! I was nervous about you trying that jumper to the batt, since didn't know if it runs on batt voltage or is regulated down or something. Haynes manual must be wrong, as they said the black wire was ground, oh well. and you wer throwing that code all along, i guess sometimes the codes you can't ignore.

cashoit

NICE KID!!!!!! I knew u wd find it.

Shorted wire huh....CHRIST that sucks man!! but if u already replaced the CPS and still gettin a code then it had to be the wire. Maybe wit the Haynes you could have figured where the wire orginates. But to splice into the headlight was ingenious. All u need is power to the senosor as it is only a magnet in essence.

Either way...didnt u have a mod and then all this crap started. Its been so looooooong kid lol. Least the maxi runnin again.

Another win for the org!

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

wesmantooth1:
Nope man Black is def the positive line, Unless someone in the factory was drinking on the job..And I did try the battery to the cam ps sensor at first but the battery in this maxima was a 750/600cca battery..The CPS started to immediately smoke like a chimney, So that was a no go.But the Headlamp has a constant flowing current of 12v..So eff the burnt/split/broken wire that screwed me over, the headlamp mod fixed it so. =]

cashoit:
Thanks for the props man, On the mod ..No I just installed the warpspeed y pipe on my 96.The 97 was a backup for if my supra went down when the 96 was down so..lol, ya..Follow that if you can.

And def another win for the org, I had faith in us all along =]

defiance

iTrader: (1)

YEAH slowyota! props to you for figuring this thing out man !
I knew it had to be a burnt wire somewhere after showing the pic
of the damaged harness.

But the headlamp mod is the real kicker.. who would have thought to wire it in there
to bypass your broken wire ?

I geuss you gotta update your sig again huh ?
an this one is a little off topic but hows your GLE perform with the warpspeed Y pipe ?

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Sig updated, Im sure someone will cure their no start with this thread.=]

The "mod" may not be for everyone,
Its kinda rigged but it works and works well.

I love, Love, love the warpspeed y pipe..I also have a test pipe where the final cat should be.Gives the max a low grumble, I wanted to weld on a SS magnaflow/dynomax Muffler but with how it sounds now i'd be a bit leery of how it would sound.

Def will be upgrading the intake sometime this summer, It'd just be dumb to increase you exhaling air and not the incoming contributes of the system.

TheRooki3

That's awesome to hear man!!! I'm happy for you and slowyota...i've been kind of quiet since i've been known to "nickle and dime" (also hijack threads) i've been so busy with work anyways....sucks to leave in the dark morning (430a) and come back during the dark evenings (8p) it just sitting there...such a sexy looking car too...today being my day off i'm going to dust myself off, put some warm clothes on and check her out again....not giving up....people don't understand that i'm not as fortunate as others on this site....i hit the junkyards (pick n pulls) because the parts/sensors are free....i live with my girlfriend (no job) and 2 stepsons (no jobs) and bring home the bacon every 2 weeks....it's tough, but again, i'm not giving up on the maxima....it looks way too good for it to be just parked there.....wish me luck guys....i'll keep you updated....again good job mates

cashoit

Keep us updated man...i was lookin around in the FSM and the 12v power for the CPS and both CKPS both go thru the same fuse. check out the electrical section in the FSM. U might need to rewire like yota.

U gotta see if the those sensors are gettin power. If it aint turning over its either the sensors or the starter. I think u got fuel and spark but incorrect ignitiion and timing signals. Prolly CPS.

We gonna be 2 for 2. YOu and yota lol

slow_yota

iTrader: (1)

Ya i hear ya on that one rooki3, Not having a heated garage would suck a$$ in the winter..Not having a blows for that matter as well.

Im in that boat too, No job, Live with the Fiancee..But ya no work sucks..Well I work on my cars and her Cars..Does that count ?..lol.

On "my" mod, The only thing i've come across is that my lights are a bit more dim so I think i will install a high amp alternator before I sell her.Whenever I get on the gas and turn up the rpms the lights become brighter so i think a high amp alt. will fix that.Like the stereo guys have put in for their " systems"..lol.

cashoit

Yota,

Check the FSM and FInd the Fuse for the CPS. Splice into that wire. Im looking for it but cant find which fuse it is

kiecas17

iTrader: (3)

Fuel regulator? I just had to replace it because my car would not start

dan1el

Is this what you’re looking for? I found this on EC-206 (’97 I30 FSM)