Go Back   Maxima Forums > Maxima Discussions > 4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register Photos FAQ Timeslips Members Parts Guide Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read ExperienceUsed CarsGarageVendor Directory
Search

4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-06-2010, 04:20 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central NJ
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 54
Battery drained even after alternator replacement. (Any NJ electrical mechanic?)

I am posting this again since the old thread started to lose control and got buried; therefore I am providing complete update here and hopefully we can bring the car back to life. I wish to apologize in advance in case anyone gets offended.

Background: While driving, everything started to shut off, engine went off, dash/head lights dimmed out, nothing turned on. Battery is about a year old (its a good battery). Put another battery to do a test, and was determined that something is draining the battery. Fuses were pulled 1 at a time to do the battery test but no change. Also, when you start the car, battery is being drained. Was told it may have been the alternator. After spending hours with alternator replacement along with ac/alternator belt replacement and same issue is happening as before where battery is being drained when started. Which gives me the dead car!

I will donate $15.00 towards your maxima.org subscription if you nail it.

__________________
"if all questions have already been answered and are in 'search' then there wouldn't be any new threads & posts"

Last edited by CosmoKramer00; 01-09-2010 at 08:16 AM..
CosmoKramer00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 05:03 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Los Angeles
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 102
was the battery fully charged after the alternator was installed? i had the same issue bad alternator well it was dead already and the car was running on the battery. when the battery was drained the car shut down and nothing electrical worked. i installed the new remanufact alternator but did not charge the battery. got the battery charged and replaced the alternator for another one since i burned out the new one. that was my issue have you tried that?
__________________


Owned -99 civic ex stock -95 240sx se 17" katanas, cai, headers, custom straight pipe exhaust, brembo brakes, custom start button, z32 maf, z32 fuel filter, camshaft, gutted interior and trunk, etc. cant remember everything else. -06 camry v6 se custom cai -06 camry le stock -06 c320 stock -07 corolla stock -07 rabbit custom 2.5" magnaflow, custom intake, limo tint all around.

Own -95 maxima gle hai, cracked flex pipe.
Nismo32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 08:07 PM   #3
The Dirty Pearl

 
pmohr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN
iTrader: (26)
Posts: 14,313
Points: 22,440, Level: 93
Points: 22,440, Level: 93 Points: 22,440, Level: 93 Points: 22,440, Level: 93
Activity: 1.2%
Activity: 1.2% Activity: 1.2% Activity: 1.2%

Define 'being drained'. How are you measuring this drain?

Have you tested for a parasitic drain? You say you pulled fuses, but mention nothing of an ammeter.

You were told it 'may have been' the alternator, but did not have it tested?

Have you had the batter{y,ies} tested? You say that it is good, but neglect to mention a proper load test.
__________________
A32 CEL Decoder | FSMs | Howto Videos
pmohr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 06:41 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central NJ
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 54
Sorry if I missed some information earlier: Here's another attempt.

Battery had been fully charged when the voltmeter/drainage test was being conducted since something was draining the battery with the existing/factory alternator, sitting volts were around 12.5 (car off) and when started, it would go down around 11.5-11.8 (can't recall exact #). Fuses were pulled (with car off) and then tested fuses, pulling 1 fuse at a time, in/out - to see if the reading drops below 35 milliamps.

Alternator was replaced (thinking alternator may have been the culprit doing the drainage), after the new alternator was installed (took the core alternator tested at AutoZone and it passed), did the drainage test again (on the newAutoZone alternator) and same issue. (With charged battery - used buddy of mine off his car as well).
__________________
"if all questions have already been answered and are in 'search' then there wouldn't be any new threads & posts"

Last edited by CosmoKramer00; 01-09-2010 at 02:52 PM..
CosmoKramer00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 07:02 PM   #5
Member

 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: va
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 115
Points: 3,704, Level: 38
Points: 3,704, Level: 38 Points: 3,704, Level: 38 Points: 3,704, Level: 38
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Send a message via AIM to mrfliboi
i think i have the same problem u having.. i just went to the place i got my amp and subs installed and they disconnected the amplifier, the aftermarket remote start and alarm, the radio deck.. i replaced the batteryand altenator.. and they tested the battery and they told me something factory is constantly on even will the car is off. they also told me that the most drainage should happen is supposed to be .045.. mines is at.85 wen everything is diconnected and the car is off. im thinking since the car has a factory theft alarm.. it could be that
mrfliboi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2010, 08:47 AM   #6
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beantown
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 1,746
Points: 8,320, Level: 61
Points: 8,320, Level: 61 Points: 8,320, Level: 61 Points: 8,320, Level: 61
Activity: 32.9%
Activity: 32.9% Activity: 32.9% Activity: 32.9%
See:
Parasitic Drain-Help

I checked my 98 SE which works normally and does not have this problem. I opened my hood and checked current with everything else off and closed. The draw was approximately 0.1 Amps = to 100 milliamps. This is the same as Matt's result. If I depress the switch that senses if the hood is closed after about 30-60 seconds the current draw goes down to about 0.01 Amps or 10 milliamps. This must be the sleep mode kicking in. That is quite a a difference. I can understand if another switch from the alarm system is malfunctioning, of missing, the car would never go into sleep mode.

I'm not certain if the 0.1 Amps is enough to drain the battery over the period of 1-2 days but you certainly should fix it to work properly as noted above so that it does go into the sleep mode.
Nopike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2010, 10:36 AM   #7
Sold

 
JSMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Edmonton AB Canada
iTrader: (13)
Posts: 3,016
Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Activity: 0.6%
Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6%

nopike, you are exactly right. Current draw of 0.1 amps is enough to give a no start situation. Espically after sitting for a few days.

Here's is what I would check. The security system first. It needs to recognize that the car is in sleep mode. When I had my drain issue, the trunk sensor was faulty and therefore the car could not enter the sleep mode. In my case, the factory alarm kept thinking that the trunk was open when I know that was clearly not the case. So, check your door switches, hood and trunk swithces. Chances are one of them is bad.

I didn't read through the whole post, so I am wondering where you got the alternator from? Rebuild shops typically don't use digital load testers on their alternators and if you are have a "rebuilt" or new alternator from one of the "crooked shops" their equipment is not accurate enough to display 0 volts (or whatever) being put out of the alternator. On the bench, the first alternator I replaced register fine, but when it was in my car... flashing alt and battery lights. Never did they come on solid. THe nissan one works just fine. Much more expensive but price comes with peace of mind.

If I am right, how about you donate the 15 bucks to me directly? lol

Last edited by JSMax; 01-08-2010 at 10:41 AM..
JSMax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2010, 08:15 AM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central NJ
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 54
JSMax:
Security factory alarm diagnostic would make sense if the car indeed is in sleep mode, however in this case during driving and with car on, something is pulling more drainage when not on hence slow drainage. New alternator was purchased from AutoZone which gave the same results (so we can rule the alternator out).

In your case, you would get 15 bucks since you are already a supporter - but you aren't right, yet!
__________________
"if all questions have already been answered and are in 'search' then there wouldn't be any new threads & posts"
CosmoKramer00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2010, 08:35 AM   #9
Sold

 
JSMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Edmonton AB Canada
iTrader: (13)
Posts: 3,016
Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Activity: 0.6%
Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6%

Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoKramer00 View Post
JSMax:
Security factory alarm diagnostic would make sense if the car indeed is in sleep mode, however in this case during driving and with car on, something is pulling more drainage when not on hence slow drainage. New alternator was purchased from AutoZone which gave the same results (so we can rule the alternator out).

In your case, you would get 15 bucks since you are already a supporter - but you aren't right, yet!
ahhhh, but you need to realize one important fact. Autozone/pepboys who ever get their alternators from a third world country where the workers are getting paid a dollar a day to rebuild these thing. Truly you get what you pay for. Personally, I would opt for the nissan alternator from Nissan and see if that fixes your problem.

The car won't go into sleep mode if the alarm is faulty/not allowing it to go there. Or, you take the car into nissan, have them do a diagnostic on it and see. It will cost you a few dollars (i will contribute the $15 you were going to give me lol) and tell them you want to fix it yourself. Peace of mind really. My car sat for almost 3 weeks before I gave up and took it in to the dealership.

I had a starter fail on the first attempted startup. Was a rebuilt one from part-source (the canadian version of autozone). Put the nissan genuine one in and 3 years later still no problems.

In your o.p. you state that your battery is being drain upon start up. That's normal, and your alternator is responsible for replacing that charge. The voltage regulator in your alternator may be faulty even if it's a new/rebuilt alternator. You can't change your regulator without changing your alternator.

Last edited by JSMax; 01-09-2010 at 09:20 AM..
JSMax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2010, 02:17 PM   #10
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 2
Ok, I have been experiencing the same problem with my 97 maxima. I replaced the battery and it was still putting out less then 12.00 volts. I put in a alternator from advance auto and it did the same thing, the battery was getting drained. I tried the remove the battery cable while it was running trick, and the car shut off indicating a bad alternator. I then started looking at the large battery fuse (160amp i think) located in the fusebox to the right of the battery if you are standing infront of the car and looking at the car. While the car was running and i had my voltmeter on the battery, I tried to wiggle that large battery fuse in the middle of that fuse box. I think it is like 160 amps or something. When I wiggled it or pressed it to one side or the other, the multimeter jumped up to 14.00 volts+. So I removed the two 10mm bolts holding the fuse box to the drivers side inner fender area and pulled it upward away from the inner fender (this was done with the battery out of the car). There is a screw on one side of this fuse and a 10mm bolt on the otherside. You might want to check to make sure these bolts are tight and/or that fuse it is not blown. There is also a 7.5amp fuse in that same fuse box for the alternator named alt. Check this as well and see if it is ok. I hope this helps, and this is the problem as it was the probelm with mine.
dsrmaxima is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2010, 05:07 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central NJ
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 54
JSMax - When I took my old/nissan alternator back to AZ, they tested and confirmed that it was good. That was another assurance that alternator is/was not the issue. And, now I am with AZ's alternator. As for taking the car at the dealership, it's going to be a challenge and ofcourse would hate for them to tell me all the other things that are wrong with it and after few hundred dollars, the issue remains. But, if/when I do get annoyed enough, I may as well.

Also, I got a brand spanking new battery which I haven't plugged in yet - afraid it may drain again therefore waiting for a bit warmer weather to go in the garage.

dsrmaxima - will try that as well once I plug in all the goodies to test it and will report back soon. Thanks for the input. Much appreciated.
__________________
"if all questions have already been answered and are in 'search' then there wouldn't be any new threads & posts"

Last edited by CosmoKramer00; 01-12-2010 at 05:40 PM..
CosmoKramer00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2010, 10:36 AM   #12
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 3,911
Points: 8,298, Level: 61
Points: 8,298, Level: 61 Points: 8,298, Level: 61 Points: 8,298, Level: 61
Activity: 4.8%
Activity: 4.8% Activity: 4.8% Activity: 4.8%
I have hrd that a bad starter can drain yur battery cuz the solenoid remains energized even after startup
cashoit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 03:59 PM   #13
Member

 
Join Date: Mar 2003
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 241
Points: 8,109, Level: 60
Points: 8,109, Level: 60 Points: 8,109, Level: 60 Points: 8,109, Level: 60
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
I bet something is staying on when the car is turned off. My friend had a similar problem with his car, it turned out that his trunk light was staying on all the time.
__________________
97 I30

Place racing/JWT hybrid Intake (for sale) Make offer
Warpspeed ss y-pipe
Custom Mandrel cattback w/ Focuz exhaust
UDP
VB Mod
B&M Tranny cooler
upgraded torque converter
Rear sway bar
Front strut bar
KYB GR2
cefiro a32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 11:35 PM   #14
Member

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 173
Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoKramer00 View Post
I am posting this again since the old thread started to lose control and got buried; therefore I am providing complete update here and hopefully we can bring the car back to life. I wish to apologize in advance in case anyone gets offended.

Background: While driving, everything started to shut off, engine went off, dash/head lights dimmed out, nothing turned on. Battery is about a year old (its a good battery). Put another battery to do a test, and was determined that something is draining the battery. Fuses were pulled 1 at a time to do the battery test but no change. Also, when you start the car, battery is being drained. Was told it may have been the alternator. After spending hours with alternator replacement along with ac/alternator belt replacement and same issue is happening as before where battery is being drained when started. Which gives me the dead car!

I will donate $15.00 towards your maxima.org subscription if you nail it.

you're describing the exact same thing that is happening to my '98 max. i thought it was the battery so i got a new one...same result. next, i changed the alternator. car would start but dies a minute later. if i use a battery charger, car would start and stays on but as soon as i took off the charger, car dies right away. i have no idea what's causing the problem now. any advice would help. thanks in advance.
imports_only1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2010, 06:52 PM   #15
Sold

 
JSMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Edmonton AB Canada
iTrader: (13)
Posts: 3,016
Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Activity: 0.6%
Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6%

Quote:
Originally Posted by imports_only1 View Post
you're describing the exact same thing that is happening to my '98 max. i thought it was the battery so i got a new one...same result. next, i changed the alternator. car would start but dies a minute later. if i use a battery charger, car would start and stays on but as soon as i took off the charger, car dies right away. i have no idea what's causing the problem now. any advice would help. thanks in advance.
check your grounds first. That's where I would start. Pay really close attention to the negative ones.
JSMax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2010, 07:23 PM   #16
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: QUEENS/NYC
iTrader: (86)
Posts: 4,226
Points: 17,368, Level: 84
Points: 17,368, Level: 84 Points: 17,368, Level: 84 Points: 17,368, Level: 84
Activity: 40.0%
Activity: 40.0% Activity: 40.0% Activity: 40.0%
have you the alternator y wire at all?
__________________
the Maxima parts man
maxfever1987 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2010, 09:15 PM   #17
Member

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 173
Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSMax View Post
check your grounds first. That's where I would start. Pay really close attention to the negative ones.
the ground wire for the alternator is on tight. anything else i should check?
imports_only1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2010, 10:24 AM   #18
Sold

 
JSMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Edmonton AB Canada
iTrader: (13)
Posts: 3,016
Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Activity: 0.6%
Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6%

the grounds from the battery.
And do a parasitic drain test.
Check the connectivity of the grounds. Clean up the contact patch and use some di-electric grease.

Also, clean up the battery terminals while your under there and in that area.

Last edited by JSMax; 02-07-2010 at 07:06 PM..
JSMax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2010, 10:27 AM   #19
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
iTrader: (24)
Posts: 4,884
Points: 13,909, Level: 76
Points: 13,909, Level: 76 Points: 13,909, Level: 76 Points: 13,909, Level: 76
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Send a message via AIM to wirelessdude04 Send a message via Yahoo to wirelessdude04
check grounds
__________________


THE END HAS FINALLY COME
wirelessdude04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2010, 01:31 PM   #20
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cambridge, Mass
iTrader: (3)
Posts: 804
Points: 6,391, Level: 52
Points: 6,391, Level: 52 Points: 6,391, Level: 52 Points: 6,391, Level: 52
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Send a message via AIM to B_Eaze Send a message via Yahoo to B_Eaze
Did you check the fusible link in the fuse box under the hood? Its in the box next to the air filter, it should be the biggest one and says [Battery] on the case of the fuse box. Your battery won't charge if this is blown
__________________
Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims | Speed Bleeders | Optima Battery


Blueprint: SC | MEVI/00VI | 5Speed Swap | EManage/AFC | 300ZX Calipers | 5G Seats | R34retro | F&R Bumpers | Driver Fender | Trunk Lid

Damn, I prob need to get some money to do all that...
B_Eaze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2010, 05:45 PM   #21
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beantown
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 1,746
Points: 8,320, Level: 61
Points: 8,320, Level: 61 Points: 8,320, Level: 61 Points: 8,320, Level: 61
Activity: 32.9%
Activity: 32.9% Activity: 32.9% Activity: 32.9%
Quote:
Originally Posted by B_Eaze View Post
Did you check the fusible link in the fuse box under the hood? Its in the box next to the air filter, it should be the biggest one and says [Battery] on the case of the fuse box. Your battery won't charge if this is blown
Good to check fusible links but there are no links between the battery and the headlights. I would focus on the battery negative terminal ground to the vehicle frame. Consider running a second ground wire from negative terminal to the frame temporarily to see if that helps. Also the positive connection at the battery may be loose or poorly connected. Other then the battery connections there is not much else that can go wrong in the headlight circuit that would also cause the vehicle to lose all power.

Last edited by Nopike; 02-07-2010 at 05:48 PM..
Nopike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2010, 04:49 PM   #22
Newbie - Just Registered

 
Join Date: Feb 2008
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 1
Points: 3,685, Level: 38
Points: 3,685, Level: 38 Points: 3,685, Level: 38 Points: 3,685, Level: 38
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
I had those most of those symptoms and for sure I just check the 10 amp fuse in the hood which was labeled alt and it was blown now she's running fine. Thanks for the knowledge awesome !!!!
gardilk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2010, 09:12 AM   #23
Member

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 173
Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
UPDATE: Car fixed!! i think!!!!

ok, so after the car has been sitting in my garage for over a month, i finally gave up and had it tolled to firestone auto service. the report came back saying that the alternator was bad, the battery was bad, and had a blown battery fuse (120amp Maxi fuse). the funny thing is that i bought a new alternator and battery and checked the fuses and they were all good. regardless, i paid $115 for the diagnostic and was told to change those again and it should fix the problem. if it doesn't, they'll investigate further, which i'll be charged again.

so i took the battery and alternator to get them exchanged since both were still under warranty. had both checked and found to the battery to be bad but had a good alternator. but i insisted on a new alternator. i then ordered a 120amp maxi fuse from nissan, which cost $22.00. while installing the battery, i also took out the negative battery wire and clean it really good since it was all rusted; i also clean the contact points on the chassis and engine block. after i installed all 3, crossed my fingers, and started the car. car started right up and ran for a good 10 minutes without stalling or any weird noises. all the warning lights went away (SRS, ABS, CEL, etc...) also. i haven't taken it for a test drive yet, but by the sound of it, it looks good.

i'll update on this further after a test drive.

Last edited by imports_only1; 04-13-2010 at 09:20 AM.. Reason: grammar correction
imports_only1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2010, 03:00 PM   #24
Sold

 
JSMax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Edmonton AB Canada
iTrader: (13)
Posts: 3,016
Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74 Points: 13,247, Level: 74
Activity: 0.6%
Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6% Activity: 0.6%

sounds like I nailed it.

Waiting on my $15.
lol

seriously glad you got it all figured out though.
JSMax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2010, 12:55 PM   #25
Member

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 173
Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
not so fast.....JSMax.
i drove it yesterday and all was fine until today. same thing again....while driving, all lights started to flash, studder, and die while in gear. it cranks very weak like it got no power so it won't start. checked the 120amp fuse and it's still good. all connections are tight. freakin maxima....i'm about to toss this piece of junk! wasted so much money on it already! again, i'm stranded away from my house and will require a tow truck. piece of junk!

Last edited by imports_only1; 04-15-2010 at 12:58 PM..
imports_only1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2010, 08:59 AM   #26
Member

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 173
Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59 Points: 7,781, Level: 59
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
UPDATE.....i think it's really fixed this time!

ok...to continue where i left off being stranded.....i took out the battery and took it to this mechanic place to have it charged knowing it was discharged. it turns out the battery was at 5%. after an hour of charging the battery, i reinstalled it again and drove the max 1/2 a mile back to the mechanic place. i told the mechanic the situation and what i have changed. he said he'll look into it to see what the problem is. a day later, he called me up and said the alternator is bad but the battery is still good. my luck...2 bad alternators.

in short, i exchanged that bad alternator for a new reman. from advance auto again. the guy put it in.....and it wasn't charging. he looked further and found a positive lead wire to the alternator that was touching bare metal on the car chassis causing sparks. fixed that wire and been driving it for 2 days now without stalling. i hope it's really fixed now!
imports_only1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2010, 01:40 AM   #27
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: united states
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6
yes can any1 help im desperate my 97 maxima has a drain if i drive it everyday it still runs but after2 days the lights wont light and t wont start ive tried taking 1 fuse out at a time but it didnt work the only issue is 2 of my light sockets have miner shorts the pass. side headlight and pass. side marker light would this do it if not im helpless i really like my car just need to find this drain i dont have a remote for the antitheft does this matter and what else could it be i really need help please any suggestions thanks in advance for any imput.
jivo97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2010, 01:45 AM   #28
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: united states
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6
just me again i forgot to mention the driverside mirror is missing to ive ordered a new 1 i just dont know what else could be draining is there something im missing is this a common problem is it a fuseable link drain or could it be nonfuseable me and my machanic both are stumped im freaking out over this i just got the car like a month ago had another i was driving til today so gain thanks in advance i hope some1 can help me i really need it.
jivo97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2010, 04:56 AM   #29
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Richmond, VA
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 191
Points: 2,073, Level: 27
Points: 2,073, Level: 27 Points: 2,073, Level: 27 Points: 2,073, Level: 27
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
^Holy run-on sentences, Batman!

What in the world could a 'miner short' (sic) be? A short circuit is caused when positive and negative ends of a circuit are connected directly. I guess if the wires just barely touch, that could be considered a minor short. Depending on where that short is exactly, it's probably the source of your problem.
VQ30MPG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2010, 06:19 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Jersey City, NJ
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 148
Send a message via AIM to angelmaxima Send a message via Skype™ to angelmaxima
First off, was it ever confirmed that your alternator wasn't putting out more than 12.

How many amps is your new one, and what exactly do you have in your car electrical.

I just changed mine yesterday because the same thing happened to me and she is running beautifully.
__________________
angelmaxima is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2010, 09:09 PM   #31
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: united states
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6
first off thanks for imfo but i havnt changed the alternator yet i only went through the fuses 1 by 1 and still have the drain it has a new starter and battery im gonna change the alternator tom. do you think thats where the drain is commin from is that a normal issue thanks again for the imput sorry for the long sentences im just trying to let you know whats its all doin .
jivo97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2010, 03:59 AM   #32
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 239
Points: 4,703, Level: 43
Points: 4,703, Level: 43 Points: 4,703, Level: 43 Points: 4,703, Level: 43
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
I had this problem on a different car a long time ago. I used to have to pull the negative terminal over night. The problem never went away until the alternator failed again. After changing the alternator for the second time I continued to do the battery thing figuring it was something else draining it. One night I forgot to remove the cable and figured the car would not start, started fine ever since.

Turns out the voltage regulator was loading the battery. I would change the voltage regulator if you can or the whole alternator and see if you still have a load.

Good Luck.
Remminator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2010, 10:11 AM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Jersey City, NJ
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 148
Send a message via AIM to angelmaxima Send a message via Skype™ to angelmaxima
I say change the alt and charge ya battery and call it a day. Thats just my vote though. You can do everything in your power, but if that alt is going bad, its simply gonna keep juicing your battery...
__________________
angelmaxima is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2010, 12:10 AM   #34
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: united states
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6
ok thanks for the information i will change the whole alternator.
jivo97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2010, 11:06 PM   #35
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: united states
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 6
can anyone tell me the best way to change the alternator its not on top like most underneath looks like it would hard to change.
jivo97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2010, 06:52 AM   #36
Donating i30 Owner

 
Join Date: Sep 2004
iTrader: (5)
Posts: 2,014
Points: 10,379, Level: 67
Points: 10,379, Level: 67 Points: 10,379, Level: 67 Points: 10,379, Level: 67
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Send a message via AIM to HomerMAC
FOR FUTURE REFERENCE...

another thing to check if the cluster was every tampered with (not illegally), meaning you took it out to do something on the dash etc.

MAKE SURE the plugs in the back are securly in. I dont think the battery charges when the plug isnt plugged in all the way. The charging system goes through the cluster to finish the charging circuit.



1. when my car died at work I wondered why... but then after reading the FSM and charging system, I realized the only thing I fiddled with was the cluster when this began.
HomerMAC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 08:54 PM   #37
Newbie - Just Registered

 
Join Date: Aug 2013
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 1
Points: 5, Level: 1
Points: 5, Level: 1 Points: 5, Level: 1 Points: 5, Level: 1
Activity: 0.7%
Activity: 0.7% Activity: 0.7% Activity: 0.7%
I'm having a similar issue...

Hello,

I am having a similar issue. My alternator went bad, so I changed it, and changed my batter. The battery still isn't charging, and when I unhook the battery, the car dies...However, I'm not getting any of the warning lights I was getting when the alternator went out. I did have quite a bit of difficulty removing the black plug from the alternator, and I'm wondering if a short in that plug might cause the problem I'm having. I'm kind of a novice, but will try to answer any questions that anyone has, but any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill
wjo1972 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 01:53 PM   #38
The Dirty Pearl

 
pmohr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN
iTrader: (26)
Posts: 14,313
Points: 22,440, Level: 93
Points: 22,440, Level: 93 Points: 22,440, Level: 93 Points: 22,440, Level: 93
Activity: 1.2%
Activity: 1.2% Activity: 1.2% Activity: 1.2%

Quote:
Originally Posted by wjo1972 View Post
Hello,

I am having a similar issue. My alternator went bad, so I changed it, and changed my batter. The battery still isn't charging, and when I unhook the battery, the car dies...However, I'm not getting any of the warning lights I was getting when the alternator went out. I did have quite a bit of difficulty removing the black plug from the alternator, and I'm wondering if a short in that plug might cause the problem I'm having. I'm kind of a novice, but will try to answer any questions that anyone has, but any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill
As above, make sure the battery light in the cluster is there and working; a failure here will keep the alternator from charging.

Can you measure system voltage at the back of the alternator, then again at the battery? If you want to avoid math, you could just do a voltage drop test on the battery positive cable.
__________________
A32 CEL Decoder | FSMs | Howto Videos
pmohr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2013, 09:03 AM   #39
Member


 
Join Date: May 2013
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 128
Points: 1,158, Level: 18
Points: 1,158, Level: 18 Points: 1,158, Level: 18 Points: 1,158, Level: 18
Activity: 5.1%
Activity: 5.1% Activity: 5.1% Activity: 5.1%
Similar issues why??

Same happened to my 96 about 2 months ago, car shut off while driving one night. altenator was bad so i replaced along with new battery. everything was but i noticed this week that something is starting to drain the battery again.. anybody fixed this yet???
svillegas2253 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2013, 09:03 AM
MaximaOrg
Nissan Maxima




Paid Advertisement
 
 
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


 




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:58 PM.


Maxima.org Forums Home Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Frequently Asked Questions on the Forums Search Find other members Registration is free! Support Maxima.org! Receive perks and benefits by donating to Maxima.org Questions? Comments?  Suggestions? Contact Us! Visit our Sponsors View and submit Maxima events Log Out of Maxima.org
Emails Backup

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.5.2