Justaguy

Okay Guys, I'm at the point where I have also removed the EGR solenoid valve (the green plug), and the EGR BPT valve.

For the EGR solenoid valve, it was very difficult to remove since the screw is at the bottom, as recommended here, I bent the steel clamper to give me more of an angle and used a flexiable socket racket 10mm. I also sprayed some PB blaster near the base of the conection of the steal and the EGR solenoid valve. After a few bruises, I got the dam nut off...with no blood.

The EGR BPT valve was a little easier. After I removed it, the little metal tube at the bottom of the BPT vale was blocked with carbon deposits. It was a little hole and a quick ***** with a tip of a nail removed the gunk. Since I have this piece off, I'm simply going to replace it...the foam around this thing is extremely dirty...I might try and open it up one day.

Now, the EGR valve...It's still on the car, I'm not sure how you remove it. The search returned about 15 pages (I image EGR is a popular search word) after going thru 4 pages and getting restless, I just have to ask..

How do you remove the EGR valve (not the tube or spacer)?

I checked the FSM and it doesn't mention how it can be removed...I see two bolts under it, but I can't tell for sure if it's connected to the EGR valve.

Thanks

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The EGR valve itself is held on by two nuts to the spacer (in the middle of the below picture):


From the FSM:


From FAST:

mikeg75

Can I ask a stupid question? I just got my EGR solenoid valve out, but I broke the two plastic projections from the valve, that go into the hoses, and they are now stuck inside the little hoses. Is it easy to reattach replacement little hoses? Would Autozone stock these? I was hoping to get this part changed before the weekend, since the car has been driving like crap the last couple days and I need to take it somewhere (I just got a code reader about 2 weeks ago and it came back P1400, so I ordered the part, after reading a bunch of threads on here).

Trying to get the bottom two hoses off was a PITA and I thought it was going to be much easier than getting the damn nut off, which everyone on here seemed to be having difficulty with. My 95 SE didn't have the nut on the bottom, rather it was in the back of the bracket.

Justaguy

pmohr: Thanks for the illustration...I wasn't able to find that figure from the FSM. I like the one from FAST. Where did you get that?

mikeg75: You should be able to remove the two little hoses, because when I pulled it out, I removed them from the other side (and not from the solenoid), They look like two little hoses but we don't have autozone here in Montreal so I don't know where you get them besides the dealer. You should be able to replace them.

Did you try pulling them out with a pair a thin pliers?

Hope that helps

Justaguy

mikeg75: Look at the pic from pmohr. He shows the solenoid at the bottom right. You'll see the two little hoses that you can replace.

mikeg75

Thanks guys. My mechanic (neighbor) is great. I stopped by his garage on my way to the subway this morning and explained that I'm trying to learn about fixing my car (and to save money), and that I broke part of the old EGR solenoid valve in the hoses that are still stuck in there. He told me it is easy to get the old ones out with pliers and then he gave me a bunch of extra lengths of the diameter hose that I need to put new part in.

I'm going to give it another go Friday after work. Hopefully I can get the new one in, clear the code, then drive around my block a little to confirm it worked.

I also bought an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, from researching a number of threads, and I think I'll replace that once I get the new EGR solenoid up and running.

mikeg75

Update - apparently my replacement of the EGR solenoid and reattachment of the hoses worked. I cleared the code and then took the car out for a drive, first in the neighborhood and then out on I-95 for a stretch. It's running much smoother, for now.

Getting the old hoses off was a PITA because they were so stuck on there. One snapped and I had to cut the end and push the remnant further down the pipe to fit the new hose in its place, using a needle-nose plier and the door panel popper that I bought specific for this job.

The other tough part was getting the nut back on. The swiveling-ratchet-wrench I bought came in handy for this job. The one I got is a little stubby one, but it really helped.

Thanks to all who have posted on this topic because I never would have attempted it without all of the great info on here.

Hopefully I'm good for a while.

Justaguy

Update

I replaced the EGR-valve, Solenoid, EGR Tube, cleaned IACV, MAF the car has more of a pep to it. SO far no codes (didn't have one earlier).

DFoot1986

I had my EGR Valve replaced a few months back. Ran good then the SES light came on. Checked it out and said P0400. I read up on cleaning the EGR tube and other realted parts and was actually wondering if its typical to clean the tube when replacing the EGR valve, or is it in a place that the mechanic wouldnt have seen if the tube was blocked? Any ideas anyone? it would be greatly appreciated, seeing as I dont want to go into clearing the tube if all i have to do is check if its on tight enough, ya know?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

You got this code back after a few months? Something is definitely wrong there. Did your mechanic really replace the valve or just clear out the carbon. Either way, it soulds like only one was done and not both.

Justaguy

I also think that maybe your mechanic forgot a step somewhere...that EGR tube is in a tight spot and you have to cut-off one of the bolts to remove it...with small hands. It's at least 1-2 hour job.
Only once the tube is out will you see if it was blocked or not.