Rear Calipers and E-Brake
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03-29-2010, 07:12 PM
#44
Each caliper has a bleeder on the bottom. I'm not sure how they work because I've never watched it done. I've always been the one pumping the brakes. Never used speed bleeders either.
As for the sequence: rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver...basically start furthest from the brake fluid reservoir.
If you are JUST changing pads, you do NOT need to bleed the system as you are not opening the system up for air to get in. I do recommend you still check the level.
As for the sequence: rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver...basically start furthest from the brake fluid reservoir.
If you are JUST changing pads, you do NOT need to bleed the system as you are not opening the system up for air to get in. I do recommend you still check the level.
04-05-2010, 05:57 PM
#45
my girl friends 93 Camry
I changed all 4 rotors and pads by myself 
no bleeding necessary since I never opened the lines. I had a hard time removing the rotors though. I had to bang those suckers out with a 5 lb hammer. They were rusted on to the hub. Each set took about an hr to do. I also snapped off one of the bolt that remove the caliper allowing access to replace the rotor. Luckily I was able to drill it out and just replace it with a new bolt. That was the first one I did (the first one is always the hardest) after that it was cake. Not to bad at all. Just a little inspiration for anyone that wants to do their own brakes.
no bleeding necessary since I never opened the lines. I had a hard time removing the rotors though. I had to bang those suckers out with a 5 lb hammer. They were rusted on to the hub. Each set took about an hr to do. I also snapped off one of the bolt that remove the caliper allowing access to replace the rotor. Luckily I was able to drill it out and just replace it with a new bolt. That was the first one I did (the first one is always the hardest) after that it was cake. Not to bad at all. Just a little inspiration for anyone that wants to do their own brakes.
04-07-2010, 08:07 PM
#46
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 292
Believe me, I've done this exact bleeding procedure several times over the 212K miles (and 15 1/2 years) I've owned my Max - and it works like a charm.
04-18-2010, 12:10 AM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philly Suburb
Posts: 393
This isn't right. The correct sequence on our cars is right (passenger) rear, left front, left rear, right front. The sequence is a little different from the usual farthest wheel first, closest wheel last due to the dual master cylinder chamber system used in the Max.
Believe me, I've done this exact bleeding procedure several times over the 212K miles (and 15 1/2 years) I've owned my Max - and it works like a charm.
Believe me, I've done this exact bleeding procedure several times over the 212K miles (and 15 1/2 years) I've owned my Max - and it works like a charm.
04-19-2010, 03:47 PM
#48
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 61
LOL you mean there's a procedure to bleeding brakes? My method is I go for the one that is closest to me and then go to the one I feel like doing next. It's not exactly rocket science. I know a completely empty brakeline holds next to no brake fluid, so I just make sure I get all the air out. I also take precautions to not let air into the lines, IE putting on a bit of tape over the end while I'm working on the brakes then pumping it once before I even put the line on the caliper.
With all the cars I've worked on I've never had problems with not getting all the air out.
With all the cars I've worked on I've never had problems with not getting all the air out.
06-21-2010, 03:02 PM
#49
Problem front right brake overheating
So it was finally time to change the brakes on my Max and this my first attempt on my Black Lion, (that what I call my car) I changed all 4 pads and I should have greased the pins but I didn't. Install was pretty easy for the fronts but had a problem twisting passenger side rear piston back in. Using brute strength I was able to twist it back in using the needle nose pliers method.
On for the test drive, everything seemed fine. Went for a long trip down to seaside and noticed my front passenger side brake was smoking when I made a stop. I checked it out and the fresh paint I put on the inner circle of the rotor burned off from over heating and I used high temp caliper paint. I also have pulsation when breaking at high speeds. I spoke to a few mechanics I know and they said the rotors are the problem. They also said cross drilled rotor have to be replaced and can't be resurfaced.
Im using Brembo cross drilled all around with PBR delux pads. This was my first time replacing these pads since 2007. The guys I spoke to said if the car pulsated when braking then its the rotors, but Im guessing the caliper failed as well since its over heating and the pad on that side is wore down to about 1/4 " on just 100 miles. I have been searching around for answers and Im getting mixed comments, some are saying X drilled can be resurfaced and some are saying the have to be replaced If they pulsate. What do you guys think? Can they be resurfaced or not? I hate to have to change them if they can be resurfaced but I really don't want to gamble having them resurfaced and they still pulsate, Im thinking about just getting rid of them and going with Brembo blanks. What do you guys think?
On for the test drive, everything seemed fine. Went for a long trip down to seaside and noticed my front passenger side brake was smoking when I made a stop. I checked it out and the fresh paint I put on the inner circle of the rotor burned off from over heating and I used high temp caliper paint. I also have pulsation when breaking at high speeds. I spoke to a few mechanics I know and they said the rotors are the problem. They also said cross drilled rotor have to be replaced and can't be resurfaced.
Im using Brembo cross drilled all around with PBR delux pads. This was my first time replacing these pads since 2007. The guys I spoke to said if the car pulsated when braking then its the rotors, but Im guessing the caliper failed as well since its over heating and the pad on that side is wore down to about 1/4 " on just 100 miles. I have been searching around for answers and Im getting mixed comments, some are saying X drilled can be resurfaced and some are saying the have to be replaced If they pulsate. What do you guys think? Can they be resurfaced or not? I hate to have to change them if they can be resurfaced but I really don't want to gamble having them resurfaced and they still pulsate, Im thinking about just getting rid of them and going with Brembo blanks. What do you guys think?
Last edited by maxprivate; 06-21-2010 at 03:04 PM.
06-21-2010, 03:22 PM
#50
So it was finally time to change the brakes on my Max and this my first attempt on my Black Lion, (that what I call my car) I changed all 4 pads and I should have greased the pins but I didn't. Install was pretty easy for the fronts but had a problem twisting passenger side rear piston back in. Using brute strength I was able to twist it back in using the needle nose pliers method.
On for the test drive, everything seemed fine. Went for a long trip down to seaside and noticed my front passenger side brake was smoking when I made a stop. I checked it out and the fresh paint I put on the inner circle of the rotor burned off from over heating and I used high temp caliper paint. I also have pulsation when breaking at high speeds. I spoke to a few mechanics I know and they said the rotors are the problem. They also said cross drilled rotor have to be replaced and can't be resurfaced.
Im using Brembo cross drilled all around with PBR delux pads. This was my first time replacing these pads since 2007. The guys I spoke to said if the car pulsated when braking then its the rotors, but Im guessing the caliper failed as well since its over heating and the pad on that side is wore down to about 1/4 " on just 100 miles. I have been searching around for answers and Im getting mixed comments, some are saying X drilled can be resurfaced and some are saying the have to be replaced If they pulsate. What do you guys think? Can they be resurfaced or not? I hate to have to change them if they can be resurfaced but I really don't want to gamble having them resurfaced and they still pulsate, Im thinking about just getting rid of them and going with Brembo blanks. What do you guys think?
On for the test drive, everything seemed fine. Went for a long trip down to seaside and noticed my front passenger side brake was smoking when I made a stop. I checked it out and the fresh paint I put on the inner circle of the rotor burned off from over heating and I used high temp caliper paint. I also have pulsation when breaking at high speeds. I spoke to a few mechanics I know and they said the rotors are the problem. They also said cross drilled rotor have to be replaced and can't be resurfaced.
Im using Brembo cross drilled all around with PBR delux pads. This was my first time replacing these pads since 2007. The guys I spoke to said if the car pulsated when braking then its the rotors, but Im guessing the caliper failed as well since its over heating and the pad on that side is wore down to about 1/4 " on just 100 miles. I have been searching around for answers and Im getting mixed comments, some are saying X drilled can be resurfaced and some are saying the have to be replaced If they pulsate. What do you guys think? Can they be resurfaced or not? I hate to have to change them if they can be resurfaced but I really don't want to gamble having them resurfaced and they still pulsate, Im thinking about just getting rid of them and going with Brembo blanks. What do you guys think?
Not the rotors, something is f*cked up, there is no way that brake pad would wear down 1/4 on 100 miles.
If the caliper is smoking something is caught, I would say its the torque member where the caliper slides back and forth.
I've had this happen before when one of them seized and the pad was wearing at an angle.
Smoking brakes is NEVER a good sign.
06-21-2010, 05:32 PM
#51
Not the rotors, something is f*cked up, there is no way that brake pad would wear down 1/4 on 100 miles.
If the caliper is smoking something is caught, I would say its the torque member where the caliper slides back and forth.
I've had this happen before when one of them seized and the pad was wearing at an angle.
Smoking brakes is NEVER a good sign.
If the caliper is smoking something is caught, I would say its the torque member where the caliper slides back and forth.
I've had this happen before when one of them seized and the pad was wearing at an angle.
Smoking brakes is NEVER a good sign.
06-21-2010, 10:11 PM
#52
small word to the wise on borrowing the tool to twist the caliper piston from autozone. DONT LOSE THE RECEIPT! i am now the un-proud owner of a tool i will probably never use again. or at least not for a long time. dumb reason to waste 50 bucks!
Last edited by Doomi30; 06-21-2010 at 10:15 PM.
06-22-2010, 07:59 AM
#53
I didn't re- grease the pins that slide in and out, is that what you are referring to when you say torque member? I don't wanna take any chances f ing up new pads again. I'll take it apart and see it I notice anything obvious. I don't know what there is to mess up really, all I did was unbolt the bottom caliper bolt, lift the caliper up and replace the pads, bolt it back. Started the car and pumped the brakes. I did the same routine as I changed each one.
06-22-2010, 08:11 AM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 313
...emergency brake binding......check both emergency brake cables for cuts...sometimes when the car is jacked up on a lift, the cables get pinched and cut,once they are cut water seeps in and it is only a matter of time before the cable rusts/corrodes, therefore seizing the emergency cable and causing either emergency brake to bind or not work at all, also to give appearance that a caliper is seizing or bad.....I have found this problem twice over the years on both my 96 & 97 Max...By the way,,I bought the replcaement cables for a good price @ Courtesy Nissan in Dallas TX...
Last edited by philly96maxima; 06-22-2010 at 08:14 AM.
06-22-2010, 08:15 AM
#56
...emergency brake binding......check both emergency brake cables for cuts...sometimes when the car is jacked up on a lift, the cables get pinched and cut,once they are cut water seeps in and it is only a matter of time before the cable rusts/corrodes, therefore seizing the emergency cable and causing either emergency brake to bind or not work at all.....I have found this problem twice over the years on both my 96 & 97 Max...By the way,,I bought the replcaement cables for a good price @ Courtesy Nissan in Dallas TX...
Very common problem along with seized calipers, rusted falling apart radiator support.
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