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Old 11-20-2009, 07:28 AM   #1
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FUEL PUMP HOT-WIRE VIA SWITCH+RELAY?

Hello all!

Here is my plan, read up on this on some different forums on the internet. Also, before I start I would like to say all my fuel delivery equipment is OEM. So I guess if you add additional wires to your fuel pump of a lower AWG gauging (10-12 gauge) ran directly from your battery you can get a little bit of extra fuel psi which can give you a bit of a boost when needed. Here is the idea, and please be critical because I want to know if this will harm my fuel pump before I go ahead and do it and also keep in mind that this is not a full-time setup, this is something you would use when you look over at a set of lights and see some punk in a civic with underglow who you want to show up (not that you'd need anything done to a Maxima to do that... anyways...)

Here is the wiring setup that I will try to explain, much easier to understand if you could see the schematics I drew...

Supplies:

  • 6-7 Female Spade Connectors
  • Inline Fuse Holder
  • 30-Amp Fuse
  • 30-Amp Relay
  • 3-ft 14AWG Wire *approx.*
  • 10-ft 10/12AWG Wire *approx.*
  • 2/3 Prong Switch (12V/Ground or 12V/ACC/Ground)
  • 5 Closed End 10/12AWG Connectors (Post Connections & Common Grounds)
Ok so,

from the battery (12V source) run a 10/12 Gauge wire, fused through the 30-Amp Fuse in the Inline Fuse Holder, directly to the 30/51 post on the 30-Amp Relay (this is your high current input). Run the 85 post of the 30-Amp Relay to a common ground with either 10/12 or 14 AWG wire (this is your relay ground). Run 10/12 AWG wire from the 87 post of the relay to the positive +12V post input on the fuel pump, which has a BLACK/YELLOW wire (this is your high current output). However do not replace the existing wire, just tap into it on the post. From the (-) ground on your fuel pump, which is a BLACK wire (no surprise there), run 10/12 AWG wire to a common ground. Lastly, run 14 AWG wire from the 86 post (this is your low-input trigger) to the positive (+) post on your switch if it is 2-prong or to the acc post on the switch (+) if it is 3-prong. Then use the remainder of your 14 AWG wire to run the (-) ground of your switch to a common ground.

I believe I got that typed out correctly but please mention any mistakes, also preferably you should use a 3-prong switch it seems a lot easier to me. Anywho, so the idea here is that your car will still remain reliant on your factory fuel pump wiring and relays because you have only tapped the wires as opposed to replacing them, and now you have a lower gauged wire (which can pass more current and power) ran via a switch to your fuel pump so that when you want to hit the drag strip or just eat some ricers light-to-light you can flip the switch, conveniently located on your dash, and have a few extra psi of fuel going to your injectors. Don't forget you have also lowered the resistance of the circuit by adding a lower gauged ground on your fuel pump as well. But if you understand basic common sense of life, you would know that if you run this switch in the ON positive all the time, you can definately expect to get some idle and running rich issues, possibly a burnt out fuel pump, maybe even a ****ed FPR or leaky injectors, so as always I do not recommend doing this to your car unless you are at your own will, and also you should understand how this setup works before diving into it. I wouldn't recommend this unless you have an I/H/E setup (intake/headers/exhaust) because the extra available air is there to compensate for the extra available fuel and also you should consider adding some additional grounds under the hood or buying a ground kit (because then you will have less resistance on your plugs and get a better spark ). I will post back after I have completed the setup and let you know if I flipped the switch and my car died from a bad idle, or if I spanked some more local chinese food to go... Hondas...

Sorry to leave you guys in suspense, I know, blue ***** suck...

Click the image to open in full size.

-Jeff

P.S. If you, like me, have an air-fuel ratio gauge, take a peek at it before and after running the hot-wire, you will notice you will suddenly get richer, and no it's not because you won the lottery...
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Last edited by jdburns323; 11-20-2009 at 07:47 AM..
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:13 AM   #2
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1) If your car incinerates after a crash and your insurance company investigates and sees this mod, they are going to tell you to go screw yourself (or worse, if anyone else in the car was injured).

2) In spite of what you think your air-fuel ratio gauge is telling you, the concept flies in the face of electrical laws. If there is an increase in voltage at the pump (easier to test it with a multimeter than an air/fuel gauge) then you have a problem with the OEM wiring, I would be safe and just replace the OEM wire with heavier gauge stuff instead of adding wires.

3) An easier way to prove if this really worked would be to connect a long rubber hose at the fuel filter, run it into a graduated container, and let it pump for 20 seconds, see how much you have... then do the same thing with the "new" wiring. I think the results will be the same.
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Last edited by trooplewis; 11-20-2009 at 08:20 AM..
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:19 AM   #3
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fudge with this gas prices, i do about 150 miles daily
But wouldn't it be better just to installed a Z32 TT fuel pump or a Q45 pump
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Old 11-20-2009, 10:00 AM   #4
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Correct me if l'm wrong, but would'nt the oem fuel pressure regulator just send the extra fuel pressure back to the tank. Because it's preset to 36psi@idle and rises to 42-44psi under manifold vac, so the higher pressure that you got from your oem pump would just go back to the tank. Unless you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, but then you would'nt need to increase voltage to your oem pump.

Last edited by Tmars; 11-20-2009 at 10:09 AM..
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Old 11-20-2009, 10:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmars View Post
Correct me if l'm wrong, but would'nt the oem fuel pressure regulator just send the extra fuel pressure back to the tank. Because it's preset to 36psi@idle and rises to 42-44psi under manifold vac, so the higher pressure that you got from your oem pump would just go back to the tank. Unless you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, but then you would'nt need to increase voltage to your oem pump.
that's true you would need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. and of course some higher CC injectors
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:25 PM   #6
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:04 AM   #7
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DSM guys have been doing this forever. I doubt it would really help much if you have a basic setup, but the increase in voltage without a doubt will bump up the fuel pressure and hold it steady. but thats assuming you have a FPR, gauge, Injectors, etc. Theoretically, Your switched setup is a good idea, that way it would start up using the main relay to prime the system, and use the heavy gauge when its neccessary.

edit::: heres a link to Jime's findings.

Fuel Pump Rewire for increased flow rates.
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Last edited by emdot; 11-22-2009 at 07:08 AM..
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:04 AM
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