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I've found the easiest, but slightly more time consuming way is to remove the two 10mm head bolts, and slide the entire bracket, ECU, and wiring harness out at the same time.
Personally, I get at the bolts by taking out the center stack (radio, vents, clock, etc) and going straight from there to the two bolts, directly behind the HVAC plumbing. Takes ~10 minutes to do it that way.
yea i was able to take one 10mm off but couldnt get the other one so ill just take the second way. i was putting the red into where the pin were and the black in the negative and i couldnt get a reading what i do wrong? the car was on too
okay so today i was doing the whole removing the ecu so i could get a read on it. i could not get it out i as able to take off the 2 10mm and able to move it around but i could not pull it out what the hell is wrong ith this car it doesnt like me. and i as trying to get the meter read and i was not able to get anything i put the red in here the plug is and the black into the ground and not one thing no read what so ever.
yea i was able to take one 10mm off but couldnt get the other one so ill just take the second way. i was putting the red into where the pin were and the black in the negative and i couldnt get a reading what i do wrong? the car was on too
What does 'where the pin were' mean? And 'black in the negative'? Where exactly were you putting the negative lead?
Don't just go probing around with a multimeter at the ECU pins with the engine running if you don't know what you're doing, if the ECU isn't damaged already you'll likely fry it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nismo32
okay so today i was doing the whole removing the ecu so i could get a read on it. i could not get it out i as able to take off the 2 10mm and able to move it around but i could not pull it out what the hell is wrong ith this car it doesnt like me. and i as trying to get the meter read and i was not able to get anything i put the red in here the plug is and the black into the ground and not one thing no read what so ever.
Did you unplug the connectors where the engine control harness meets the dash harness? Did you look to see what you were caught up on? Did you clear the small metal clip at the top of the ECU bracket?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
What does 'where the pin were' mean? And 'black in the negative'? Where exactly were you putting the negative lead?
Don't just go probing around with a multimeter at the ECU pins with the engine running if you don't know what you're doing, if the ECU isn't damaged already you'll likely fry it.
Did you unplug the connectors where the engine control harness meets the dash harness? Did you look to see what you were caught up on? Did you clear the small metal clip at the top of the ECU bracket?
i was putting the red lead into the the connector where the pin is for the white wire terminal 54. and the black into the ground pin terminal 55.
i removed the radio and vent etc what u said to so i was able to get the 10mm out. i took all the black locks (dont know the real name for those little things in the metal clips) i was able to push it the driver side but wont go all the way and when i pull it through the passenger side it wont pass at all.
okay so i was told that the reason it wont pass 3000 is because the cat conv is blocked and that the timing chain might me off time and skipping... sounds right to anyone???
i was putting the red lead into the the connector where the pin is for the white wire terminal 54. and the black into the ground pin terminal 55.
i removed the radio and vent etc what u said to so i was able to get the 10mm out. i took all the black locks (dont know the real name for those little things in the metal clips) i was able to push it the driver side but wont go all the way and when i pull it through the passenger side it wont pass at all.
Don't use the ECU's ground pins, use a ground on the body. You do have it set to read voltage, correct? And if it's set to AC voltage, whatever readings you may get will be useless.
Again, did you disconnect all of the connectors where the engine control harness meets the dash harness? Have you actually looked to see what you're hanging up on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nismo32
okay so i was told that the reason it wont pass 3000 is because the cat conv is blocked and that the timing chain might me off time and skipping... sounds right to anyone???
And who was it that told you that?
If it hits a rev limiter at 3k, then it's not an exhaust issue, it's an ECU issue. If the timing chain had skipped anything but one tooth in a specific direction, it wouldn't even run. And had it just skipped that one tooth, it would run perfectly fine other than not firing cylinders 2 and 3.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Fans always on high + no rev past 3k....... hummm. That's in the FSM as failsafe mode, with possible cause as blown ecu..... Nobody could check the codes? Really? Because hearing of a 4g ecu ACTUALLY going bad would be a first for me, other than injector or coil drivers from a short, or iacv short on a 5th gen, these ecu's are bulletproof. Once it's out open the cover & look for burnt/melted stuff, sometimes you can smell it just sticking your head under the dash. Subscribed
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Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
okay so i was told that the reason it wont pass 3000 is because the cat conv is blocked and that the timing chain might me off time and skipping... sounds right to anyone???
No, not at all. Take your car to a mechanic instead of geussing or hoping someones suggestion is right.
__________________
Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
Fans always on high + no rev past 3k....... hummm. That's in the FSM as failsafe mode, with possible cause as blown ecu..... Nobody could check the codes? Really? Because hearing of a 4g ecu ACTUALLY going bad would be a first for me, other than injector or coil drivers from a short, or iacv short on a 5th gen, these ecu's are bulletproof. Once it's out open the cover & look for burnt/melted stuff, sometimes you can smell it just sticking your head under the dash. Subscribed
there was no burning smell had 4 different obdII readers come and try to pull codes and just said error check connector. some guy came with a huge genesis reader and nothing no one is able to. ive pulled the coils connector and the engine shakes checked all 6 do its not the coil disconnected the maf sensor and it did nothing the car acted the same.
Don't use the ECU's ground pins, use a ground on the body. You do have it set to read voltage, correct? And if it's set to AC voltage, whatever readings you may get will be useless.
Again, did you disconnect all of the connectors where the engine control harness meets the dash harness? Have you actually looked to see what you're hanging up on?
And who was it that told you that?
If it hits a rev limiter at 3k, then it's not an exhaust issue, it's an ECU issue. If the timing chain had skipped anything but one tooth in a specific direction, it wouldn't even run. And had it just skipped that one tooth, it would run perfectly fine other than not firing cylinders 2 and 3.
okay i was finally able to take out the ECU i was putting the red lead into the terminals and the black lead to a ground on the body and i got no reading what so ever. i then decided to try the red lead to the other ECU looking box that was under the black box in the dash under the radio and and i was able to get readings off that one but not off the main ECU? does this mean its gone??
so today i went under the hood and was checking connections to sensors and some were giving me no answer but when they were placed on the ground terminal of the sensors i would get a read
okay so i have gone through everything on the ecu and im not getting a reading what so ever i checked under the hood and i only get readings from the ground wire on the connectors... any suggestions
okay so i disconnected the iacv or what ever that thing is called lol i disconnected all the connectors for it also the one from the maf and the car did not change what so ever. what setting is my multireader suppose to be so i can double check its all good cuz when i switch it around i get high reading then no reading and so on so what is the proper voltage of ohms im suppose to be on?
okay here is some info i got the reader to read finally. here is the list i tested the ecu 15-20 times each terminal every 5 seconds. i would get the reading when i would remove the black lead from its ground. on others it would just pop up and stay on continuously. so come on now some help would be appreciated what else can i do.
now the MAF connector , W= nothing, B= -2.06, R= 5.55, 11.10, 9.06, 1.33, 3.56, 7.86
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The Grey connector by the TB next to the brown one. R/W= 2.57, Gr= 1.75, 0.99, 1.89, 4.51, Bl/P= 2.54-2.58
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IACV connectors.
Pink one first
Gr=1.82, 1.54, 1.51, 18.81, 11.05, R/Y= 7.00, 2.39, 12.39, 13.26, 1.69
the purple one
Y/R= 0.80 with the battery as the ground i got 4.40, Y/B= -2.24 with the battery as the ground i got -0.28
Last was the Grey connector
top row
Y= nothing, R= 3.82, Pu/Gr= nothing
bottom row
Grey/blue= nothing, Red= 2.36, Grey/Green= Nothing
the maf is clean. i just got another maf from a junkyard newer than the others i installed it and it still didnt work for me now since i got credit for it going back and ill end up getting a ecu. im shooting for the ecu now.
okay so finally after all this time it was the ecu YAY!!!!!! i cannot believe it took me so long but now it works it has a rough idle though still wants to shut down. it has a rough shake every minute or so. the clicking from the injectors is gone they sound normal again. was able to pull a code the first time and i got the 0201 which is the ignition signal. i then reset the cel turn on the car again then off and pulled the code again and this time i just got 0505 which means no code detected. the maf is clean the iacv is clean the coils are good i have no oil since it all leaked out i have a puddle on the driveway. so now the ecu has to reprogram itself to the car so i can actually get some code is that right??
Linear Mode
