11 year old radiator: how long can it last?
10-04-2009, 02:25 PM
#1
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Location: Mississauga, Ontario
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11 year old radiator: how long can it last?
My 11 year old Max with 258,000 km on it and since I've had it in late 2001, I have made rad flushes every two years and am up for another this fall.
I rarely have to fill up the reservoir so the odds are there are no leaks.
As it may be at the end of the lifecycle, perhaps its best to replace it rather than face the chance it could bite the dust on my before the next flush in two years, and I am stuck somewhere plus a towing charge?
My gut says just stay with it.
I rarely have to fill up the reservoir so the odds are there are no leaks.
As it may be at the end of the lifecycle, perhaps its best to replace it rather than face the chance it could bite the dust on my before the next flush in two years, and I am stuck somewhere plus a towing charge?
My gut says just stay with it.
10-04-2009, 02:37 PM
#2
Personally for the sub $200 shipped for a Koyo, I'd replace it as a maintenance item. The plastic won't hold up forever, and most of the time you won't notice the crack until you're already overheating.
The cooling system is a relatively closed system, you really shouldn't ever have to add coolant to the reservoir.
The cooling system is a relatively closed system, you really shouldn't ever have to add coolant to the reservoir.
10-04-2009, 03:13 PM
#3
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Posts: 53
I'd say there's a decent chance it'll fail in the next two years and it might just be worth it to replace it... would I do it myself? Probably not.
With any luck, you'll get a light seeping as your warning and you'll have the chance to replace it before it finally, completely gives way.
With any luck, you'll get a light seeping as your warning and you'll have the chance to replace it before it finally, completely gives way.
10-04-2009, 04:03 PM
#6
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I had a crack in mine a few yrs back, Got one of the koyo's from the GD forum for well under $200 shipped. There a perfect fit if you ever do decide to replace it, which I would before your overheating or stranded somewhere.
10-04-2009, 04:14 PM
#8
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Location: Tampa Fl
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Unless the water pump is eating 2 gallons a day like mine was, you shouldn't change it. The water pump job is a ****ing royal pain, the radiator is a much simpler job. Change your hoses, thermostat, radiator etc. and you'll be fine for now.
10-04-2009, 05:21 PM
#9
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Wow, that's a great price. But I could get hit with duty charges. Dang. I'll check with my local parts place first.
Anyone recommend a brand for water pump, maybe order now for when it does go and I can't wait for the part in transit.
Anyone recommend a brand for water pump, maybe order now for when it does go and I can't wait for the part in transit.
Last edited by holymoly; 10-04-2009 at 06:01 PM.
10-05-2009, 05:56 AM
#11
My radiator situation was a nightmare. My lower radiator support beam was really rusty and one day decided to snap in half while I was driving. I pulled over and half of the beam was hanging and my radiator was oozing antifreeze because it hit something pretty hard when that support beam broke.
Since then I had a brand new lower support beam welded in and a 100% aluminum radiator put in instead of the OEM plastic kind. I want my front end to be tough as a rock.
Since then I had a brand new lower support beam welded in and a 100% aluminum radiator put in instead of the OEM plastic kind. I want my front end to be tough as a rock.
10-05-2009, 01:04 PM
#15
Why would you change the radiator? I have 98 GXE and I replaced the radiator at 250,000 miles and that is only because I blew it up (long story). Wait until it dies and then replace it. That is what I think
10-05-2009, 01:07 PM
#16
If it's a DD, then why wait? Nothing lasts forever on a car with a high number of miles
10-06-2009, 06:41 AM
#19
Its really up to you. If you have the extra cash, why not replace it? If you drive alot, on highways or such, maybe you should consider it. I just changed mine at 165,000 due to a crack. Something that might have been a pain in the butt if I was on a road trip. Getting stuck on the side of the road somewhere in 'who knows whatville' aint fun.
10-06-2009, 10:09 AM
#20
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10-06-2009, 11:16 AM
#21
10-06-2009, 11:33 AM
#22
10-06-2009, 03:57 PM
#23
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FWIW, I changed mine in a parking lot at around 150k miles. Since I bought the car at 44k miles I used nothing but distilled water and eventually performed a full flush, switching to Toyota red at around 90k miles. Since that time I did routine radiator drain and fills at about 25k intervals.
If you see seeping of any sort or need to top off the antifreeze from time to time, it's a good indication your radiator may crack soon.
Just my 2 cents... I'd replace it as a maintenance item around 150k.
If you see seeping of any sort or need to top off the antifreeze from time to time, it's a good indication your radiator may crack soon.
Just my 2 cents... I'd replace it as a maintenance item around 150k.
10-15-2009, 07:43 AM
#24
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OK, just received my Koyo radiator from across the border in just over a week.
Will also change the thermostat and two hoses.
The Haynes manual indicates the radiator has a 8.5 liter capacity. My intention is to flush out with a garden hose. Before I add Toyota Red, most likely and distilled water, is there likely to be any residual water/coolant left in the cooling system?
If not I intend to use 4 liters of coolant and 4.5 liters distilled water.
I still haven't found the How-to-sticky on changing rad, so will have to rely exclusively on Haynes.
Will also change the thermostat and two hoses.
The Haynes manual indicates the radiator has a 8.5 liter capacity. My intention is to flush out with a garden hose. Before I add Toyota Red, most likely and distilled water, is there likely to be any residual water/coolant left in the cooling system?
If not I intend to use 4 liters of coolant and 4.5 liters distilled water.
I still haven't found the How-to-sticky on changing rad, so will have to rely exclusively on Haynes.
10-15-2009, 08:09 AM
#25
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10-15-2009, 08:13 AM
#26
Probably could've shipped it back, gotten a new one, but that's too much of a PITA for such a cheap part. Ended up getting one just this past week for ~$100 shipped from RockAuto, the filler neck notches are at least twice as deep as on the eBay radiator.
10-15-2009, 08:15 AM
#27
All but identical. I might be swapping out my rad today, I'll make a vid if I do. Still have a PS belt vid to edit and upload...
10-15-2009, 08:48 AM
#30
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You guys are all nuts.
DO NOT REPLACE A RADIATOR UNLESS NEEDED.
A radiator is a merely a box that cools hot fluid. If its not dented, gummed up, not cooling or leaking, ITS PERFECT AND CANNOT RANDOMLY FAIL.
As for the water pump, YES they can go randomly, but thats like fixing a flat tire before you run over the nail just in case. Fix it when it goes. If you spend money fixing a perfectly working water pump, and it would have never broke in the first place, you wasted money. NOTHING WILL HAPPEN WHEN IT GOES. PUMP STOPS SPINNING. CAR WILL HEAT UP. TURN OFF, COOL DOWN. DRIVE A FEW MILES. WHEN IT GETS A LITTLE OVER OPERATING TEMP, TURN OFF AND REPEAT. Dont let recommended STEALERSHIP REPAIR INTERVALS TRICK YOU.
THEY SAY REPLACE IT....ITS TO MAKE MONEY.
DO NOT REPLACE A RADIATOR UNLESS NEEDED.
A radiator is a merely a box that cools hot fluid. If its not dented, gummed up, not cooling or leaking, ITS PERFECT AND CANNOT RANDOMLY FAIL.
As for the water pump, YES they can go randomly, but thats like fixing a flat tire before you run over the nail just in case. Fix it when it goes. If you spend money fixing a perfectly working water pump, and it would have never broke in the first place, you wasted money. NOTHING WILL HAPPEN WHEN IT GOES. PUMP STOPS SPINNING. CAR WILL HEAT UP. TURN OFF, COOL DOWN. DRIVE A FEW MILES. WHEN IT GETS A LITTLE OVER OPERATING TEMP, TURN OFF AND REPEAT. Dont let recommended STEALERSHIP REPAIR INTERVALS TRICK YOU.
THEY SAY REPLACE IT....ITS TO MAKE MONEY.
10-15-2009, 09:04 AM
#31
You guys are all nuts.
DO NOT REPLACE A RADIATOR UNLESS NEEDED.
A radiator is a merely a box that cools hot fluid. If its not dented, gummed up, not cooling or leaking, ITS PERFECT AND CANNOT RANDOMLY FAIL.
As for the water pump, YES they can go randomly, but thats like fixing a flat tire before you run over the nail just in case. Fix it when it goes. If you spend money fixing a perfectly working water pump, and it would have never broke in the first place, you wasted money. NOTHING WILL HAPPEN WHEN IT GOES. PUMP STOPS SPINNING. CAR WILL HEAT UP. TURN OFF, COOL DOWN. DRIVE A FEW MILES. WHEN IT GETS A LITTLE OVER OPERATING TEMP, TURN OFF AND REPEAT. Dont let recommended STEALERSHIP REPAIR INTERVALS TRICK YOU.
THEY SAY REPLACE IT....ITS TO MAKE MONEY.
DO NOT REPLACE A RADIATOR UNLESS NEEDED.
A radiator is a merely a box that cools hot fluid. If its not dented, gummed up, not cooling or leaking, ITS PERFECT AND CANNOT RANDOMLY FAIL.
As for the water pump, YES they can go randomly, but thats like fixing a flat tire before you run over the nail just in case. Fix it when it goes. If you spend money fixing a perfectly working water pump, and it would have never broke in the first place, you wasted money. NOTHING WILL HAPPEN WHEN IT GOES. PUMP STOPS SPINNING. CAR WILL HEAT UP. TURN OFF, COOL DOWN. DRIVE A FEW MILES. WHEN IT GETS A LITTLE OVER OPERATING TEMP, TURN OFF AND REPEAT. Dont let recommended STEALERSHIP REPAIR INTERVALS TRICK YOU.
THEY SAY REPLACE IT....ITS TO MAKE MONEY.
I've seen that failure on many Nissan radiators. It's not a 'planned' failure, so in my book that counts as relatively random. The only way to avoid this failure? Replacing it when it gets old. I know how spending $100 on a radiator every 11 years can hurt the wallet. That's like a whole $10 a year.
Since when will the water pump 'stop spinning' when it fails? Are you aware of the typical failure point of the VQ water pumps, or how they're even designed? If the water pump were to lock up, you'd have a much bigger problem than just in the cooling system.
Funny, I'd rather spend a few hours replacing a water pump prematurely than spending a few hours to go a few miles, constantly waiting for it to cool down to drive it again. And again, a bank-breaking $40 for a water pump.
Fix it when it happens? So by that logic, why would you replace perfectly good timing belt when the engine still runs? Wait until the belt snaps and bends all your valves, then replace it...after all, having done that sort of preventative maintenance would've just been a waste of money.
Recommended replacement intervals are there for a reason. If you think it's some huge conspiracy, then so be it...we'll be sure to consider your advice 'carefully' in the future.
10-16-2009, 01:34 AM
#32
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Posts: 112
and do you even understand how a cooling system works? 50% of the time the impeller stops spinning and omgosh it overheats! what do you think happens?
and timing belt? as far as i've seen under our hoods we have timing chains, and ya, you have valve tick, replace it. its WORN. needs replacing. recommended intervals give dealerships return business. i work in the industry. so all this hocus pocus work that i do, fixing cars that aren't broken is a joke? your telling me that at 50,000 miles you would replace shocks that aren't leaking, and are holding 100% of the pressure they were manufactured with? well you better cause the dealer says so.
Last edited by fastisnothing; 10-16-2009 at 01:40 AM.
10-16-2009, 03:10 AM
#33
hey buddy. that crack at the seam, falls under "leaking"
and do you even understand how a cooling system works? 50% of the time the impeller stops spinning and omgosh it overheats! what do you think happens?
and timing belt? as far as i've seen under our hoods we have timing chains, and ya, you have valve tick, replace it. its WORN. needs replacing. recommended intervals give dealerships return business. i work in the industry. so all this hocus pocus work that i do, fixing cars that aren't broken is a joke? your telling me that at 50,000 miles you would replace shocks that aren't leaking, and are holding 100% of the pressure they were manufactured with? well you better cause the dealer says so.
and do you even understand how a cooling system works? 50% of the time the impeller stops spinning and omgosh it overheats! what do you think happens?
and timing belt? as far as i've seen under our hoods we have timing chains, and ya, you have valve tick, replace it. its WORN. needs replacing. recommended intervals give dealerships return business. i work in the industry. so all this hocus pocus work that i do, fixing cars that aren't broken is a joke? your telling me that at 50,000 miles you would replace shocks that aren't leaking, and are holding 100% of the pressure they were manufactured with? well you better cause the dealer says so.
Nope, never looked inside a cooling system before, I'm just part of the conspiracy. Your numbers are off, most of the time it's a component other than the water pump. As I said, are you even aware of the typical failure point of the VQ system?
Now true, some recommended maintenance isn't required, but that's not what you said. You implied that ALL intervals are just to 'make money', which is just plain incorrect.
What does valve noise have to do with our timing chain? And as above, I'm talking about recommended replacement intervals in general, not specifically to the A32. But you never answered my question; if the engine is running just fine, then why would you replace a timing belt every 60 or 90k, just because it's recommended? Are you going to be constantly pulling one of the covers to check on the belt to see when it's due, or risk a belt snapping or having the teeth stripped off while driving?
Also, quote fail.
Last edited by pmohr; 10-16-2009 at 03:18 AM.
10-16-2009, 11:21 AM
#34
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 1,066
My radiator had a slow leak in one of the side tanks and I consider that a "failing" radiator. So i replaced it. Yeah, I could of waited until the whole side tank blew off while driving, but I consider peace of mind much more valuable than a few less dollars in the bank for a part that is critical.
10-18-2009, 06:40 PM
#36
Yes. There are 2 bolts on the L and R sides of the motor (which you would think are the front and back) that allow you to drain the residual water/coolant in the system. Good illustration in the FSM, haynes makes it more confusing than it is. It takes longer to R'n'R these two bolts than to do the whole rad. I pulled out these two drain plugs the first time I flushed my coolant, and - considering how little actually comes out for the effort - I won't be doing it again.
10-18-2009, 07:24 PM
#37
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
if you are planning on keeping the car then I would buy a radiator and keep it at home until you have the time to replace it. If that time never comes then keep it until the one you have blows. I was in the same situation a while back but mine popped two miles from home and I own a tandem axle trailer... Good luck.
10-18-2009, 07:28 PM
#38
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 25
Really, cannot 'randomly fail'? What would you call this?
I've seen that failure on many Nissan radiators. It's not a 'planned' failure, so in my book that counts as relatively random. The only way to avoid this failure? Replacing it when it gets old. I know how spending $100 on a radiator every 11 years can hurt the wallet. That's like a whole $10 a year.
Since when will the water pump 'stop spinning' when it fails? Are you aware of the typical failure point of the VQ water pumps, or how they're even designed? If the water pump were to lock up, you'd have a much bigger problem than just in the cooling system.
Funny, I'd rather spend a few hours replacing a water pump prematurely than spending a few hours to go a few miles, constantly waiting for it to cool down to drive it again. And again, a bank-breaking $40 for a water pump.
Fix it when it happens? So by that logic, why would you replace perfectly good timing belt when the engine still runs? Wait until the belt snaps and bends all your valves, then replace it...after all, having done that sort of preventative maintenance would've just been a waste of money.
Recommended replacement intervals are there for a reason. If you think it's some huge conspiracy, then so be it...we'll be sure to consider your advice 'carefully' in the future.
I've seen that failure on many Nissan radiators. It's not a 'planned' failure, so in my book that counts as relatively random. The only way to avoid this failure? Replacing it when it gets old. I know how spending $100 on a radiator every 11 years can hurt the wallet. That's like a whole $10 a year.
Since when will the water pump 'stop spinning' when it fails? Are you aware of the typical failure point of the VQ water pumps, or how they're even designed? If the water pump were to lock up, you'd have a much bigger problem than just in the cooling system.
Funny, I'd rather spend a few hours replacing a water pump prematurely than spending a few hours to go a few miles, constantly waiting for it to cool down to drive it again. And again, a bank-breaking $40 for a water pump.
Fix it when it happens? So by that logic, why would you replace perfectly good timing belt when the engine still runs? Wait until the belt snaps and bends all your valves, then replace it...after all, having done that sort of preventative maintenance would've just been a waste of money.
Recommended replacement intervals are there for a reason. If you think it's some huge conspiracy, then so be it...we'll be sure to consider your advice 'carefully' in the future.
Looks like that was leaking for a while. Still a failure but you could get home on it before it got to bad. I drove my s-10 around for almost two years with a pinhole in a freeze plug and a three to four inch crack in the radiator. Failure to me means you are getting towed not slowly losing coolant on a drive home or over a month or two.
10-18-2009, 07:49 PM
#39
Looks like that was leaking for a while. Still a failure but you could get home on it before it got to bad. I drove my s-10 around for almost two years with a pinhole in a freeze plug and a three to four inch crack in the radiator. Failure to me means you are getting towed not slowly losing coolant on a drive home or over a month or two.
It wasn't leaking for that long, but if you don't carry around a jug of water or coolant, it would leave you with a long journey home. Coolant will be sprayed out of there in a hurry, leaving you to overheat.
10-18-2009, 08:21 PM
#40
your alternator or starter or any number of other parts might fail stranding you too. I understand the concept of maintenance and replacing an aging part but you have to draw the line at some point. simply inspecting the system i believe would suffice in this situation