Has anyone installed a 10 inch cone filter?

[maxed_out_99]

Originally Posted by motox166

On a stock vehicle with no fuel correction, i'd agree.
However....

"The extra flow of these pieces can(usually do) go outside of the fuel correction parameters of the ECU. So by putting a slightly restrictive filter(but better than stock) on motor running a stock ECU can make more power than a large free flowing filter or muffler. From my experience."

The stock intake pieces work better because they allow less flow. Think about that. Just about everyone agrees that stock intakes make the car go faster. And we all know just by looking that they allow less air through. So If less flow equals faster car, why? Because your engine CAN handle the fuel requirements for the amount of flow of the really restrictive stock intake but not the additional flow of the new ones. If you have more air to use then you need more fuel to go along with it to keep the proper air/fuel ratios that are required to make best power. About 12.5 parts air to 1 part fuel is about best. So when you install you higher flowing piece of whatever, and your car looses power, that MEANS that you don't have enough fuel to go along with it. Bottom line.

So the fact that you loose power by just installing a simple cone filter means that the original was really restrictive.

So all you have to do is either reprogram your ECU, or trick it. I'm not spending the $$$ to reprogram, so tricking it is the easiest option. There are plenty of other ways but these are two common and easy ones.

1. Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
So if you install one of these bad boys, it will force more fuel past your injectors throughout the RPM range and give you an overall rich(more fuel) mixture. However, too much will kill power and do damage as well.
Read up on the net on this one. Its very easy and fairly cheap mod. You can buy the fitting for about $20 and the FPR for under $50 on ebay. These units work fine.

2. Apexi air fuel controller(AFC), super AFC, or NEO.
These will adjust your map sensor at different rpms to trick the computer into giving it more or less fuel at the selected RPMs. They are about $150 used to about $500 new depending on the model. It only takes a few wires to hook up. This is the more precise method, but i would recommend both.

3. Adjustable map sensor
With this you can adjust the amount of fuel with the turn of a screwdriver.
You can make one of these for under $25 with parts from radio shack with basic sodering skills.
I made one for a 94 4.0L Jeep Cherokee so I could run straight BioEthanol (E85). Worked great. I could even use it to give it less fuel while cruising and save 1-2mpg. That was back when gas was around $4.00/ gal. I saved $150/ month using bio.
This mod is all over the internet. I think you can buy these already made for $50-75. Check around. It takes about 4 wires or so to install.

Conclusion:
If you don't want to bother with giving your engine more fuel, stick with the bone stock intake on the Max to go the fastest.
If you just want more power by any means necessary, do whatever intake mod you want and give it more fuel. You WILL make more power with a better intake when you give it the proper amount of fuel.

how bout cold air intakes? i was talkin about a short ram (hot air intake) those really dont do much but in my experiance the cold air does give you horsepower gains. the fact that your air is denser and atomizes better the engine doe not like to be hot. cold air is always the best wich is why the factory box pulls in cold air. i do agree with you but to an extent. i think if your gonna do an intake mod save your money and buy a cold air. if your on a tight budget buy a k and n fiter and call it a day.