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Starter went out at work today. went and picked up a new one, put it in, car ran fine before work. ran fine up until the starter went. ran fine for about 10 mins after i put new starter in, then it started running rich, (but with my mysterious leak it says it's running lean) yada yada. it smells way rich. and about every stop sign or every time i let off the gas it drops to 500 rpm and bounces, if I don't hold the gas it dies every stop light, corner i go around slow anything. oh and when I got home I ran codes and got a misfire code, but drove the car around a few times and havn't got the code back.
What could I have possibly done between the time the starter went, to after i put in a new one that could have made it so my idle drops that hard? Everything is hooked up, looked over multiple times etc.
.................................
p0300 Code -Random Misfires.
So I was thinking about what that could possibly be and decided to go get new plugs since I havn't changed mine. I've read about mis-fires, bad idles etc with bad plugs. I got NGK's of course, and it was absolutely No difference at all. car feels and drives exactly the same.
While I'm driving, say I'm at 1500 rpm in say 4th gear (auto) just cruising. And I try to accelerate, Well I can give it anywhere from 1-30% and It will not change from 1500 rpm. It'll not change out of gear. But if I give it more gas it'll drop gear to 3rd it feels like, goes to about 2500 rpm and stays there. although the car doens't accelerate at ALL. infact I was trying to climb a hill and I accelerated, it dropped down. and I was actually slowing down. even though I was at a higher rpm in a lower gear? wtf is that.
Secondly when I'm going around a corner it locks up too the same way. I pretty much can't accelerate at all anywhere. I have to get up to speed quick, because it'll do it if I don't accelerate fast enough. and I'll get stuck going 10 mph at 3000 rpm and can't go faster no matter how much gas I give it. -_- I'm Sick of this ****ing car, I hate maximas so much right now. but unfortunately I need to figure out the problem so I can at least sell the damn thing....But the car runs perfect when I'm WOT, perfect afr's perfect shifting. perfect everything.
Also when I'm hitting the brakes at a stop light, Idle will be good (sometimes) other times it'll drop very slowly but once it gets to about 500, I can't save it. even if I give it more gas, while holding the break, it drops rpm faster, it'll bounce between 500-100 until it finally dies. but once I start it up it runs fine for about 5 mins. absolutely perfect. then it runs like a pos..
The car has literally every maintenance part up to date. But regardless name anything you can think of that would cause this. It's been doing this for about 6 months now, and has gotten A LOT worse over those 6 months, it use to never drop idle, it'd just lock up SOMETIMES. very rarely, now it does it all the time. more so then it is normal. it started after I put my headers and new(er) transmision in, and I've had many threads about it but nobody seems to be able to figure it out. or be of any help. I NEED to figure this out before winter, Because it will not be drivable at all. I'm soo close to just buying a jeep and taking it to a the crusher.
The only things I have left to check really are the Brake Booster and master cylinder, although I don't think they would cause a problem making the transmision not even release itself or pop out of gear. Even when it pops into a lower gear it's still sluggish until it "pops" out, and it does it at random then the car feels like normal. Leave thoughts. If not it's going to the junkyard.
Man, I was having this same problem up until today. Although I have a 5spd. I had the same P0300 code. Turned out I had 3 bad injectors. Replaced the injectors in cylinders 1,3 and 4. Replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter. Runs and idles smooth as glass now.
Man, I was having this same problem up until today. Although I have a 5spd. I had the same P0300 code. Turned out I had 3 bad injectors. Replaced the injectors in cylinders 1,3 and 4. Replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter. Runs and idles smooth as glass now.
How'd you know which injectors were bad.
How did your spark plugs look when you pulled them out or did you?
Mine were pretty clean. Looked used. But nothing out of the norm.
Would a bad injector show up on the OBD2 reader since it's electrical or not?
I guess I can't throw out the fact that they are injectors, because these injectors have been on 3 or 4 different cars,
The only thing is the car never died at every stop light BEFORE my starter went out, it was litterely night and day after I replaced my starter it ran like ****. Even after I put a new starter in (2 in 2 days) it's still running like ****. although the car starts like a dream. It runs terrible at low speeds and slower accelerating. But runs mean as **** at WoT, pulls extremely hard. So I know the engine is fine.
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EDIT: I'm guessing you tested resistance?
If so How'd you go about doing that
First off do you have an 00vi swap. Because I do, so if I remember right I had to hardwire all the injectors in, So what would I be testing?
I had to use a multimeter to test the injectors and see what the resistance was. Normal range is supposed to be between 10-14 ohms. 2 of mine were at 32 and one was at 18. Replaced the 3 and now all of them are 10.7 to 10.8 ohms.
The spark plugs looked like how you described yours.
Now that I think about it, there's a member here in Dallas with a 5th gen(LatinMax), that was having similar problems to what youre describing minus the P0300 code. It turns out that the gear that engages to the flywheel on his starter wasnt disengaging after starting the car. I see youve replaced yours already but maybe it should be removed and tested.
I had to use a multimeter to test the injectors and see what the resistance was. Normal range is supposed to be between 10-14 ohms. 2 of mine were at 32 and one was at 18. Replaced the 3 and now all of them are 10.7 to 10.8 ohms.
The spark plugs looked like how you described yours.
Now that I think about it, there's a member here in Dallas with a 5th gen(LatinMax), that was having similar problems to what youre describing minus the P0300 code. It turns out that the gear that engages to the flywheel on his starter wasnt disengaging after starting the car. I see youve replaced yours already but maybe it should be removed and tested.
The gear that enganges to the fly wheel, that was getting stuck on the new starter I got. Then everything started going to hell. I've sence taken that back and got a new starter which starts fine, and I'm possitive it's dis-engaging.
I'll have to check the resistance of each of my injectors. but thanks!
The gear that enganges to the fly wheel, that was getting stuck on the new starter I got. Then everything started going to hell. I've sence taken that back and got a new starter which starts fine, and I'm possitive it's dis-engaging.
I'll have to check the resistance of each of my injectors. but thanks!
Any more ideas ??!
not from me, but have fun taking apart the UIM. o_O
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This was from Youtube.com immortal4942 (1 day ago)
its time for a tune up, change the coil packs and fuel filter since u already took care of plugs, and since u are doing all that might aswell change the oil even if it is ahead of schedule, i would also run some fuel injector cleaner(cheveron) just to help.
i had bad coil packs and i thought my transmission was going bad it did sort of the same thing u are talking about. coil packs and plugs took care of the problem
__________________ 96 Black I30t VLSD 5spd A.K.A Big Black(has a bad attitude) Eibach springs//Koni yellows//Koyo OE Radiator//F&RSTB//Black retro'd Cefiros w/E46 Bi-Xenon projectors/ZKW clear lense'd//Budget y-pipe//test pipe//Apexi WS2//WAI//Grounding kit
its time for a tune up, change the coil packs and fuel filter since u already took care of plugs, and since u are doing all that might aswell change the oil even if it is ahead of schedule, i would also run some fuel injector cleaner(cheveron) just to help.
i had bad coil packs and i thought my transmission was going bad it did sort of the same thing u are talking about. coil packs and plugs took care of the problem
I don't think you understand, When I said EVERYTHING is up to date. I meant EVERYTHING. Is up to date. My front 3 coilpacks are stock, non 00vi ones, bu have been replaced recently. only the back 3 coilpacks havn't because they are the 00vi ones, also my injectors I just ran injector cleaner through. although I know that's not going to fix a bad injector. basically I'm asking how to check for a bad injector using resistance
And have fun taking "apart" my UIM? Idk about apart, but it's been on and off the car more than 20 times it's like a ten minute job to get it off. And that had no help on my question at all.
If it's the coilpacks, the only ones it'd be are the rear 3, the ones for the 00vi. Which I could understand since they've been on a few cars, But what do I test, and I thought when they blow they make a sort of bubble thing on one of the sides.
If it's the coilpacks, the only ones it'd be are the rear 3, the ones for the 00vi. Which I could understand since they've been on a few cars, But what do I test, and I thought when they blow they make a sort of bubble thing on one of the sides.
the bubble forms when they short out, thats what you DONT WANT! just look at g4nismos thread
to test, a basic test that i used to tell my 4th cyl was dead, just unplug the coils, if your idle get worse, its good, if the idle doesn't change then its busted. there also a way to use your ohmmeter to tell but i dont know the specs.
have you check your MAF yet? and did you take off the TB to change the starter? if so have you made sure the TPS is set correctly? it sounds to me like a bit of each.
i only browsed your main post sorry.
__________________
Mods;custom exhaust, DTM, 01VI,r34's, Shortram, BudgetY- black corners,blues, and no CEL.
Comming soon; nothing.
the bubble forms when they short out, thats what you DONT WANT! just look at g4nismos thread
to test, a basic test that i used to tell my 4th cyl was dead, just unplug the coils, if your idle get worse, its good, if the idle doesn't change then its busted. there also a way to use your ohmmeter to tell but i dont know the specs.
have you check your MAF yet? and did you take off the TB to change the starter? if so have you made sure the TPS is set correctly? it sounds to me like a bit of each.
i only browsed your main post sorry.
The car has a new(er) maf, like I said everything maintanance wise is up to the date. Maf is fine, TB is clean, although it has lots of gas in it like it was flooded. I know it can't be my fuel pump because i can WOT at 30 it and it'll spin tires till it shifts.
So you're saying leave the car on. Un-plug each coil while the car is running, and see if the idle changes or not. Seems like a dumb idea. I know for a fact there were no bubbles on any of my coil packs that was the first thing I checked on each one as I pulled them. I've read g4's thread and none of them appear to look like that. nor seem any similar to the problems he was having. he was just blowing one coil packs.
The only thing I don't get is,
If it was injectors, wouldn't the car run bad ALL the time? Because Like I said it's golden mint at WOT, but anything below that is hell. So because of that I'd rule out fuel pump. And I just don't think fuel injectors or coils would cause a problem like that. The car stays at 12.9 all the way till red line, Even lauches hard. Feels like a completely different car at WoT vs Trying to just accelerate from a stop sign. But when I am trying to accelerate and when it wont drop gear I can feel it mis-fire a ton. kinda chuggish, almost like jerking forward and backwards, specially when I'm at a stop sign. I can release the break and it chatters forward then feels like it's in nuetral, then feels like it pops back into gear, then feels like it's in nuetral, - etc.
The only other thing I can think of is, When I was pulling spark plugs out, coil #3 and #6 were EXTREMELY hot. and smelled a lot more bitter than the others. Could just be un-burnt. but there was also an orange-ish color around the base, just looked like burnt rubber basically.
So I let the car run and heat up for about 10 mins then un-plugged each coil and....just lost a tad bit of rpm on each one. normal. so...im thinkin coil packs are ruled out.
Check Resistances of fuel injectors 1, 3, and 5.
They Read
#1 - 16.6 Ohms
#3 - 16.8 Ohms
#5 - 16.9 Ohms.
Couldn't check rear three obviously didn't want to take off UIM yet.
Few things, does the car need to be warmed up or cold to check resistances? Because I had it warmed up. I don't think it would matter because it was unplugged.
Also, Jnco, you said resistances should be around 10.9 etc. Well with my 00vi my injectors are different obviously.
I checked resistance on another 01 maxima injector that I had laying around and it read 14.5 ohms.
Then I checked all the resistances of the fuel injectors off my stock fuel rail, and they all read about 10.5-11
So I'm just wondering is the resistance the same between the 97-99 injectors and the 00-01 injectors?
If that's the case then clearly all three of my front injectors are bad correct?
After 6 months I found out the problem. There must have been corrosion build on on my injector clips, Because last night when I un-plugged them all to check resistance, I cleaned them off and blew inside them before I put them back on, after that the car ran like it's never run before. First time I actually got to drive the car I built...
Although I'm kinda depressed because I wanted a 350z.
But regardless I still need to know if those ohm readings are too high.
Because Idk if the resistances are suppose to be the same between 97-99 injectors and 00-01. I've been searching for it but cannot find it.
After 6 months I found out the problem. There must have been corrosion build on on my injector clips, Because last night when I un-plugged them all to check resistance, I cleaned them off and blew inside them before I put them back on, after that the car ran like it's never run before. First time I actually got to drive the car I built...
Although I'm kinda depressed because I wanted a 350z.
But regardless I still need to know if those ohm readings are too high.
Because Idk if the resistances are suppose to be the same between 97-99 injectors and 00-01. I've been searching for it but cannot find it.
Thanks For The Help Guys.
Sounds like another win for the org. Good trobleshooting And let that be a lesson to everyone...make sure u electrical connectors are clean
95-99 injectors are 10-14 ohms
2000 injectors are 14-15 ohms
2001 injectors are 13.5 - 17.5 ohms
Thanks Jnco.
Why are the ohm readings differnent between 00 and 01. Or how would I be able to tell which Injectors I have, or does it really matter. I'm sure I can put 01 injectors on an 00 f rail, and vice versa correct?
And troubleshooting. Lol. From tearing down my uim countless times, re-sealing everything countless times. going over every single vac line countless times. replacing every single vac line, checking every single gasket. pulling my fuel pump, checking fuel pressure. staring at my car for hours trying to figure out what the problem is for 6 months. and it come down to corrosion on my injectors. -_- I'm ****ing pissed lmao.
Hi all,
I have been reading the forums for a while, and I learnt a lot from here. Thanks a ton guys.
I have been having a problem similar to the OP - My car misfires at idle. It doesn't do it always, and its more often at a stop light. Sometimes I feel like 20 jerks when waiting and sometimes one or two or even none.
I recently got new spark plugs (autolite double platinum) but the problem persisted.It threw a cyl#5 misfire code once, but it got cleared by itself by the time I took it for a diagnostic. After a couple of weeks it again threw a P0300 code while I was on my way to the dealer for the diagnostic.
The dealer did a power balance test and recommended changing injectors 1 and 5.
So my question is: How can I be sure that its the injectors and not something else like the ignition coils or bad cylinder compression? Should I go ahead and change the injectors or is there something simple I can do to check?
I checked the resistances of 2,4 and 6 injectors and they were fine, 11.something ohms each. I could not check the rear bank though. (The manifold, and I am an amateur )
Thanks a lot and I apologize for hijacking the OP's thread.
Edit:- I have been running fuel injector cleaner for the last 2 tanks of gas, no big difference.
Start your car. let it warm up a little. And un-plug each coil pack. if the idle drops then it's working. if it stays the same then there is your problem. then go onto the next one, honestly this has been explained numerous numerous times you could have searched for it. but welcome to the .org
You're lucky I got to this before Phmor did
It sounds very similar to mine I will agree. but mine are bad injectors, does it hesitate on acceleration? say from a stop sign/light, when your driving does it feel sluggish then randomly feel like it has power again?
Also when you check your coil packs, swap them with different cylinders and see if the problem travels with the coil pack, and hopefully doesn't stay in the cylinder. if you understand what I'm sayin.
Thanks Zax.
I read about swapping the coil, but the problem I have is - I got a cylinder misfire code only once till now. Never again, though I tried to push my car and make it misfire a couple of times (hard acceleration). So, swapping the coils may not do me any good I guess.
I got a P0300 once, and rushed my car to the dealer, and he said the injectors were going bad after a power balance test. Also, I noticed that the freeze frame data which I got after the P0300 had some short term and long term fuel trims at -100.6%. I interpreted this like this : The ECU detected lean condition in some cylinders (I dont know which) and tried to correct it by injecting more fuel but it did not really help as the injectors were bad. So the large negative trims. Please correct me if I am wrong.
I checked the resistances of all the six ignition coils as given in Haynes manual. I got infinite resistance for 3 and 2 in one direction and 1.xxx MOhms in the opposite direction for all coils. Does this mean coils may not be an issue?
And then I checked the Injectors in the first bank (couldnt reach 1,3,5 due to the manifold ) and all checked out fine, 11.xx Ohms.
Also, I pulled the coils as my car was running today evening, and noticed that only cylinder 5 did not seem to affect the idle much. Maybe Injector 5 replacement will suffice? However I feel my car is behaving even badly after I pulled and plugged back in the ignition coil connectors while the engine was running. Did I screw up something here?
I mainly feel the misfire at idle in drive. It misfires in P/N too, can hear it at the muffler tip. Sometimes the engine stumbles, and it is now doing what you said- feel power loss and power returning suddenly as I take off from a traffic light. Also a couple of times the engine would not rev above 2500 rpm when I tried giving more gas. I didnt try to floor the pedal and let it go.
Thanks a lot for reading a long post like this. I am a newbie, kindly excuse me for my ignorance. I am trying to learn, this is my first year with a car.
Last edited by Maximamisfire; 10-21-2009 at 06:33 PM.
Reason: Forgot to mention, its a 99 Maxima
Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.
I checked the resistances of all six injectors - 11.xx ohms in the front bank and 12.xx ohms in the rear bank, all within specs.
I checked the ignition coils, all six of them checked out according to Hayne's manual - Infinite resistance in one direction and 1.0x Mega Ohms in the other.
I have no idea what to do next - check compression, change fuel filter.. Any suggestions?
Also, can the injectors be faulty even if their specs are within limits? Maybe a very clogged/leaking injector?
I'm having a very similar issue. Changed my plugs yesterday and now my car runs like shizz! P0300 code. I changed the back coil packs, still the same thing. Unplugged the others, as expected had a significant RPM drop on 2, and the third one did nothing. When I pulled the coil out, i threw a spark plug in there and got sufficient spark...so wtf?! It's now at the dealer. I shouldve just paid those farkers the money to do it in the first place. Now i'm up to 400 and looking at another 100 for a diag. Any suggestions?
I checked the resistances of all six injectors - 11.xx ohms in the front bank and 12.xx ohms in the rear bank, all within specs.
I checked the ignition coils, all six of them checked out according to Hayne's manual - Infinite resistance in one direction and 1.0x Mega Ohms in the other.
I have no idea what to do next - check compression, change fuel filter.. Any suggestions?
Also, can the injectors be faulty even if their specs are within limits? Maybe a very clogged/leaking injector?
Clean the injector Terminals, change spark plugs, change coil packs. Throw some injector cleaner in the fuel tank.
Well, looks like I am screwed.
I got my injectors and fuel filter changed. The spark plugs were fine. I asked the mechanic to test my coils, and he said that all the coils gave a good "white spark" when he tested them.
I drive around, and the shaking at idle returns. I was pissed when coming back, and really accelerated hard, and I got a P0305. So, looks like I am alternating between P0300 and P0305.
Does this sound like a bad compression issue? I assumed that if the compression is bad the car will be ****ty at idle and even worse at highway speeds. I cruise at 65mph at 2200-2300 rpm and 55 mph at 1850-1950 rpm, look like I dont have a power loss at cruise.
Also, can someone explain me a little about fuel trims, I read what I found. What I do not understand is why I have around 4 LTFTs and 4 STFTs. 1,2 or 6 make sense, but why 4? And the 2 times I had a code and freeze frame data stored, a few of the LTFTs and STFTs were -100%!. Yesterdays misfire, the fuel systems were both in open mode.
Also, what is the timing supposed to be? I saw that it was fluctuation from 9-15-19-9. Is this indicative of something?
I hate the f****ng stealership here. I get a diagnostic, authorize them for 2 hours of work (thinking they will check for vacuum leaks/compression). They charge me for 45 minutes, tell me injectors 1 and 5 are going bad after a power balance test. I ask to speak with the technician, and all I got was to speak with the dumb service advisor. No matter what my question was, her answer was the same, just rephrased differently.
Me: How do you know its injectors and not ignition coils?
She: The tech did a power balance test and found out that injectors 1 and 5 were going bad.
Me: Did he check for vacuum leaks? Compression?
She: Power balance test showed that injectors 1 and 5 are going bad.
I hate these stealerships. Wish I had access to consult systems.
P.S- Can I have an ignition coil issue without the P1320 code? And can someone please tell me the symptoms of bad compression in one cylinder?
I think the key thing you mentioned was that it doesn't happen all the time. This applies if the rough idle/running doesn't happen all the time.
Short story long, I bought a 2000 max about a week ago for cheap. It wouldn't stay running. It would start, idle for about 5 sec, bog down and die. They guy put alot of money in it and was fed up (new ECM, coil packs, fuel pump, filter, plugs). I towed it home, unplugged the MAF (after researching on maxima.org) and it kept running. I was pumped. Tried cleaning it, but ended up replacing the MAF.
However, the idle was rough and it didn't run well. Drove it around a bit, still rough. But then all of a sudden, at the end of one drive, I pulled in the driveway, and the idle was perfect. But the next morning, it was rough again. Checked the codes and had a cylinder 5 misfire.
Different subject but related. The sunroof was acting up. It would open 2" and stop. I would have to keep hitting the button and it would move 2" at a time. I read somewhere that the control module needed to be reset by disconnecting the battery for awhile. I also figured that it wouldn't hurt to reset the ECM.
So I left the battery disconnected for a day and put the charger on the battery. (Side note, I noticed sometimes the interior lights were kind of dim). Next day, sunroof worked perfect. The first time I started the car, it idled rough and died. I started it again and it ran great. Drove it to work the next day. However, I randomly got the CEL and rough idle. So I stopped in and got the charging system checked. Alternator good...battery bad. Voltages were all over the place. One minute was 10 volts, another was 13.5.
So new battery and it's been running perfect for about 4 days...no rough idle, no CEL. The guy at AZ was saying that he has seen bad batteries do very strange things to cars.
I would have the battery checked (a couple of times). I know it sounds dumb, but you never know. I did the following:
1. Replaced the MAF
2. Reset the ECM (by leaving battery cable disconnected for a day)
3. Replaced the battery
4. Performed idle air re-learn procedure in the FSM.
Thanks Andy.
My previous battery died, and I got it changed a month ago. No change.Also I didnt have issues with the lights being dim or anything similar. But I think I can still try the MAF.
Well as soon as I spoke the rough idle came back. Got the cylinder 5 misfire and 1320 code again. I pulled the #5 coil pack and the boot to coil connection seemed loose. Pulled the plug and there was a little oil on it, but not bad. I fiddled around with the coil pack a bit and then put it back in. Still rough idle.
So I started wiggling around the connector and the coil body and all of a sudden the idle smoothed out. I drove it a bit and the rough idle started again. popped the hood and wiggled it again until the idle went smooth.
This explains my intermittent idle problem.
Bottom line, I have a connection problem. I think between the coil and the boot. I am planning to replace the #5 coil pack tonight.
you might have a spark short, try wrapping your boot in electric tape, if that fails, open up that wiring harness and look for a bad line, youve switched coils with another cylinder correct? to make sure the coil is the problem?
also, try sanding down the ends of the spring in the boot, corrosion perhaps?
but as i stated before, switch coils first to eliminate that being the problem, then i would elect tape it, sand down the ends of the spring, and if that doesnt work, check your wires.
__________________
Mods;custom exhaust, DTM, 01VI,r34's, Shortram, BudgetY- black corners,blues, and no CEL.
Comming soon; nothing.
Hi Guys,
My maxima is still misfiring. I am sick of it. This is all I have done so far:
1. Got my spark plugs changed 3 weeks ago (The mechanic put in autolite double platinums, I should have asked for NGK, I did not know then. They were gapped to 0.044").
I had the misfire at idle and an occasional stumble before, and nothing changed.
2. Took it to the stealership and they told me that injectors 1&5 are going bad. Changed them, and even got the fuel filter changed then.
No change. Checked the ignition coils, and all of them were good with white spark.
3. Bit the bullet and changed the coil on cyl #5 (I started getting a cyl #5 misfire code frequently under load). No f*****g change even now!
I got a P0300 at idle and the stealership recommended chaning injectors. The fuel trim were a little weird, (LTFT1-3 and STFT 1-3 were fine, but LTFT4 and STFT4 were -100.6% ! ). After i got the injectors changed, I got a misfire code under load (~3000 rpm, ~96.x% engine load), and the fuel systems 1 and 2 are OPEN1, and LTFT1-3 and STFT1-3 = 0% and LTFT4 and STFT4 = -100.6%.
I changed the coil about an hour ago, I didnt feel a stumble or hesitation yet, but it still idles like ****.
When I was getting the injectors changed, I asked the mechanic to do a compression test too, but he half assed it and only told me that "they were all fine, above 140 psi".
What do you guys suggest? Any sense in changing my plugs to NGK? I had cyl 5 code before and even now. It doesnt do it continuously, it is intermittent.
Get a proper compression test done? The mechanic also told me that he thinks its not a compression issue because it runs quite well when its not missing. Does it make sense? (It will cost me about a 100$ to get the compression test)
How do I know that its not the ECU which is not triggering my injectors or coils correctly? It seems to communicate normally with OBD II scanners and dealer scanners. (I thought about the noid light, but it is intermittent. I will have to run a cylinder unhooked forever to figure out anything. And also its the rear bank, so i dont know how I can do it. Can I unplug the F-131 connector for the noid lamp test?).
I am lost guys. Can some one please please help me with it?
Or can anyone make me a good mechanic suggestion? I am in state college, PA.
it did sort of the same thing u are talking about. coil packs and plugs took care of the problem
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