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VIDEO...where I did the 3/9 o'clock test. I had the boot pulled to expose the inner tie rod joint, but to me it looks like the tie rod is solid - also, the steering rack housing is steady while the rack is the thing moving.
That does look a bit excessive. Try it with the car running so the rack is under pressure from the PS pump. I'm suprised it's not leaking. What stands out more is the movement of the control arm in the 2nd video. That should be pretty solid, have you checked the sub-frame bolts? Something isn't right there.
Hmm, haven't tried with the car on. Those videos were taken with the car off & steering lock engaged.
Sub-frame, you say? Haven't even looked into that. Might make sense that if the sub-frame was loose that a bad rack is just a byproduct. I've been driving with poor steering ever since I got the car, 14k miles ago.
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | Exhaust hole near axle
Looks to me like there is some excessive play in the tie rod end. How many miles are on your car and have they ever been replaced? I would try the test again with the wheels on the ground. Do you hear any popping or feel any slop? Thats usually tie rod ends.
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WHAT KEEP IT STOCK! Well that takes the fun out of it.
99 Nissan Maxima SE - K&N Filter - Stillen Exhaust - Warpspeed Y Pipe - Strut Bar
KYB GR2 Struts - 300ZX Fuel Filter
Tie rods are good, not to mention only about 2 months old-I'm convinced the movement is up in the rack/steering column.
When the steering wheel lock is engaged, should you be able to turn the steering wheel at all? I can rotate it maybe an inch or so before I feel the lock preventing further rotation.
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | Exhaust hole near axle
U should not be able to move the wheels at all with the car off. There will be a little play with the steering wheel rotating but the lock should engage and then prevent you from rotating the wheel at all. What are the symptoms when u start the car??
Took some videos of testing the rack, and I learned that when the engine is on, there is no difference in force required to 'steer' by the wheels (steering rack sliding force).
Steering lock test
- first half is me turning the steering wheel to hit the lock & see how much movement transmits to the wheels
- second half is me doing the 3/9 o'clock test on the other wheel
- note: the sound you hear is all in the rack area
Steering wheel movement while locked
- just doing the 3/9 o'clock test on a wheel to show how much the steering wheel moves. (sorry for it being so dark; camera is on the elbow rest pointed towards steering wheel)
Ease of turning the wheels by hand
- shows how easy I can 'steer' by moving the wheels
- first half is with engine off, steering lock disabled
- second half is with engine on
- result: no difference in force required
- ps: I know, my strut bearing is bad
Do any of these results stand out as an obvious malfunction of the rack?
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | Exhaust hole near axle
Last edited by ridinwitha35; 11-02-2009 at 08:45 AM.
Did you replace both inner and OUTER tie rod ends? The reason I ask is because in your first video the inner joint looks tight, and your rack looks fairly stable, but the wheel is moving way too much. I would put money on outer ends.
Don't worry about your wheel lock, that's a mechanism of your key switch and doesn't affect steering slop.
Full list of stuff replaced: inner tie rods, outer tie rods, control arms (includes balljoints), struts, strut mounts & bearings, swaybar end-links, swaybar/subframe bushings...all Moog except for struts (KYB GR-2), strut mounts (Monroe), & control arms (eBay).
Everything is tight from the wheel to the knuckle to the rack.
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | Exhaust hole near axle
I'll change lanes and the steering will, like... jerk out of nowhere. Most noticable when I step on the gas, acts like torque steer, but to an extreme.
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1997 Tan 5Speed - DD (FWD ZX FTW)
1982 Brown 280ZX 5Speed - Sold, no more love for Datsun
1980 Brown 280ZX 5Speed - Totaled
1979 White 280ZX Auto - Wrecked then sold (first car)
Have you looked at the rack bushings? There are two - the one on the drivers side should have rubber on both sides of the mounting bracket. i just recently had mine aligned and the shop pointed this out to me. The rack was going to wander until these bushings were replaced-btw the driviers side was easy the passenger side-well haven't done that one yet-still looks OK.
Have you looked at the rack bushings? There are two - the one on the drivers side should have rubber on both sides of the mounting bracket. i just recently had mine aligned and the shop pointed this out to me. The rack was going to wander until these bushings were replaced-btw the driviers side was easy the passenger side-well haven't done that one yet-still looks OK.
Yeah my bushings are fine & the mounting of the rack to the subframe is solid/no play encountered.
Any comments from those 3 videos I recently posted?
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | Exhaust hole near axle
1993 Maxima GXE Super White, Ebay FSTB, 97-99 SE Rims, KYB GR2s, BlehmCo Lower Tiebar, BlehmCo parallel link kit, RSTB, BlehmCo swaybar links,Rear Addco swaybar, z31 rear disc upgrade, Assurance TripleTreds.
1995 Maxima GXE-5 Dark Blue Pearl , 00-01 SE RIMs, I30 leather w/rear headrests, No rubber- all ES Poly in front end suspension, Pioneer InDash Navi, Kzoosho LED tails and FX35 HID retrofit
I'll change lanes and the steering will, like... jerk out of nowhere. Most noticable when I step on the gas, acts like torque steer, but to an extreme.
That is CLASSIC symptoms of control arm bushings, fairly common on these cars/
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Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
Possibly, except the same behavior was experienced before replacing them (which were originals).
Quote:
Originally Posted by wittynamessuck
I'll change lanes and the steering will, like... jerk out of nowhere. Most noticable when I step on the gas, acts like torque steer, but to an extreme.
My problem is more with straight-line driving. If I go over rough road (like when they de-tar a street) my steering wheel does it's own little dance. I gotta take a video of this soon.
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | Exhaust hole near axle