replacing cv axle, got questions
09-23-2009, 02:48 PM
#41
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 222
had it towed to a mechanic.
done with this. never do this kind of job again, not fun at all.
done with this. never do this kind of job again, not fun at all.
09-24-2009, 12:18 AM
#42
I used to love it when I was working at the shop and a customer brought me they're 1/2 done work. Made my job easy - most of the time - and I could charge them out the nose. G'luck in other words.
09-24-2009, 10:47 PM
#45
What he's saying is precisely correct, it can help in a lot of instances. You put some grease around the snap ring so that it is held "centered" on the splines rather than letting gravity pull it off center. With some snap rings it can help if they are a little more stretched than others. I've had axles that wouldn't go in because the snap ring was a little too stretched out and would interfere with installation, but putting grease on it centered it on the axle and made installing it a snap (no pun). Others that have tighter snap rings didn't require this.
09-25-2009, 08:14 AM
#46
Neal ... sorry if you misunderstood my post. I was simply saying that the OP already took the car to a shop. Not saying it's not good advice.
I appolagize if I offended anyone.
I appolagize if I offended anyone.
09-25-2009, 07:14 PM
#49
Not to rub it in your face OP but Passenger side axle... piece of cake.
Hardest part was the removal. Tight spaces, big hands. I removed the whole bearing support bracket itself because the rust seized them together. I took a chisel to them once removed and they slipped away from each other after some hard work.
Thanks for the info on here for whoever contributed. Very helpful.
Hardest part was the removal. Tight spaces, big hands. I removed the whole bearing support bracket itself because the rust seized them together. I took a chisel to them once removed and they slipped away from each other after some hard work.
Thanks for the info on here for whoever contributed. Very helpful.
09-26-2009, 11:47 AM
#50
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 222
I did this too 
but it just wouldn't pop in.
but it just wouldn't pop in. What he's saying is precisely correct, it can help in a lot of instances. You put some grease around the snap ring so that it is held "centered" on the splines rather than letting gravity pull it off center. With some snap rings it can help if they are a little more stretched than others. I've had axles that wouldn't go in because the snap ring was a little too stretched out and would interfere with installation, but putting grease on it centered it on the axle and made installing it a snap (no pun). Others that have tighter snap rings didn't require this.
09-26-2009, 11:51 AM
#52
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 222
aglee!! pass side is very easy to pop in, while taking it off is hard, tiny space there.
been there, done that, even it ended up in a mechanic shop
been there, done that, even it ended up in a mechanic shop
Not to rub it in your face OP but Passenger side axle... piece of cake.
Hardest part was the removal. Tight spaces, big hands. I removed the whole bearing support bracket itself because the rust seized them together. I took a chisel to them once removed and they slipped away from each other after some hard work.
Thanks for the info on here for whoever contributed. Very helpful.
Hardest part was the removal. Tight spaces, big hands. I removed the whole bearing support bracket itself because the rust seized them together. I took a chisel to them once removed and they slipped away from each other after some hard work.
Thanks for the info on here for whoever contributed. Very helpful.
09-28-2009, 12:07 AM
#53
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
My experience with axle replacement:
Removal: 1/2" chain and large slide hammer
Installation: Very big rubber mallet
Use wire to hold the axle in-line with trans, grease & center circlip. Once you are certain the splines are aligned, compress axle, and give it one good pop on the end with the mallet. It should move in 1/2" or so. Now the circlip is past the edge of the splines. Push and/or gently tap the axle in until it stops. It should still have about 1/4" to go. Compress axle again and give it another good whack. It should move in the rest of the way and the circlip will seat in.
This job requires careful and calculated application of force! Removal should only take 1 pop with the slide hammer. Installation should only take 2 pops with the mallet. That's it, 3 deliberate forceful blows. Don't blindly hammer on things hoping they will fit together, it just won't work.
To get the other end of the axle into the outer hub, align splines, thread hub nut on and pull it into the hub by tightening the nut.
YMMV.
JackMeUp
Removal: 1/2" chain and large slide hammer
Installation: Very big rubber mallet
Use wire to hold the axle in-line with trans, grease & center circlip. Once you are certain the splines are aligned, compress axle, and give it one good pop on the end with the mallet. It should move in 1/2" or so. Now the circlip is past the edge of the splines. Push and/or gently tap the axle in until it stops. It should still have about 1/4" to go. Compress axle again and give it another good whack. It should move in the rest of the way and the circlip will seat in.
This job requires careful and calculated application of force! Removal should only take 1 pop with the slide hammer. Installation should only take 2 pops with the mallet. That's it, 3 deliberate forceful blows. Don't blindly hammer on things hoping they will fit together, it just won't work.
To get the other end of the axle into the outer hub, align splines, thread hub nut on and pull it into the hub by tightening the nut.
YMMV.
JackMeUp
09-28-2009, 04:04 AM
#54
My experience with axle replacement:
Removal: 1/2" chain and large slide hammer
Installation: Very big rubber mallet
Use wire to hold the axle in-line with trans, grease & center circlip. Once you are certain the splines are aligned, compress axle, and give it one good pop on the end with the mallet. It should move in 1/2" or so. Now the circlip is past the edge of the splines. Push and/or gently tap the axle in until it stops. It should still have about 1/4" to go. Compress axle again and give it another good whack. It should move in the rest of the way and the circlip will seat in.
This job requires careful and calculated application of force! Removal should only take 1 pop with the slide hammer. Installation should only take 2 pops with the mallet. That's it, 3 deliberate forceful blows. Don't blindly hammer on things hoping they will fit together, it just won't work.
To get the other end of the axle into the outer hub, align splines, thread hub nut on and pull it into the hub by tightening the nut.
YMMV.
JackMeUp
Removal: 1/2" chain and large slide hammer
Installation: Very big rubber mallet
Use wire to hold the axle in-line with trans, grease & center circlip. Once you are certain the splines are aligned, compress axle, and give it one good pop on the end with the mallet. It should move in 1/2" or so. Now the circlip is past the edge of the splines. Push and/or gently tap the axle in until it stops. It should still have about 1/4" to go. Compress axle again and give it another good whack. It should move in the rest of the way and the circlip will seat in.
This job requires careful and calculated application of force! Removal should only take 1 pop with the slide hammer. Installation should only take 2 pops with the mallet. That's it, 3 deliberate forceful blows. Don't blindly hammer on things hoping they will fit together, it just won't work.
To get the other end of the axle into the outer hub, align splines, thread hub nut on and pull it into the hub by tightening the nut.
YMMV.
JackMeUp
Dude ... what are you jacked up on exactly? You don't use force, or 'the force' to remove or install axles. I've never heard of anyone using a chain before - that's a new one. I guess if you don't know what you're doing, this might work ... but I'm gonna take your word for it and do it like the professional that I am.
wow ...
09-29-2009, 02:35 PM
#55
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
Dude ... what are you jacked up on exactly? You don't use force, or 'the force' to remove or install axles. I've never heard of anyone using a chain before - that's a new one. I guess if you don't know what you're doing, this might work ... but I'm gonna take your word for it and do it like the professional that I am.
wow ...
wow ...
Try replacing axles on a 2nd gen MX-6 without using any force...
And the true WTF here is people recommending to use prybars and crowbars to remove axles. These apply force at an angle, when force needs to be applied in-line with the bore, straight in, straight out.
Ever bought a rebuilt axle that has all sorts of gouges and dents on the trans-end outter cup? That's what prybars and hammers get you...
09-29-2009, 06:42 PM
#56
I spoke too soon. I knicked the damn axle seal. I was sooo careful too, i had 2 people helping me guide it in, slowly. Didnt even get resistance from lining up the teeth.
Is the seal the one around the lip of the hole or is it deeper inside?
Is the seal the one around the lip of the hole or is it deeper inside?
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