KS...Is it REALLY worth replacing???
09-28-2009, 07:19 AM
#81
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
09-28-2009, 07:41 AM
#82
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
DUDE!!!!
I tried to change it for 1.5 hrs and i cannot get the old one off. That bolt is super tight. Im so pissed!!! I think u guys have an older model 1995 or 1996. The 97 max is wicked hard. I can reach it with the 12mm wrench but i dont have enough clearance to torque it adequately. I dont wanna pay 250 to some mechanic to do it. I have a manual tranny so i dont really notice it but i since i had the car the ks has been screwed.
I can get the U joint in there with the socket and extension but i cant get the fawking bolt to loosen urgh!!!!
I tried to change it for 1.5 hrs and i cannot get the old one off. That bolt is super tight. Im so pissed!!! I think u guys have an older model 1995 or 1996. The 97 max is wicked hard. I can reach it with the 12mm wrench but i dont have enough clearance to torque it adequately. I dont wanna pay 250 to some mechanic to do it. I have a manual tranny so i dont really notice it but i since i had the car the ks has been screwed.
I can get the U joint in there with the socket and extension but i cant get the fawking bolt to loosen urgh!!!!
09-28-2009, 10:19 AM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
DUDE!!!!
I tried to change it for 1.5 hrs and i cannot get the old one off. That bolt is super tight. Im so pissed!!! I think u guys have an older model 1995 or 1996. The 97 max is wicked hard. I can reach it with the 12mm wrench but i dont have enough clearance to torque it adequately. I dont wanna pay 250 to some mechanic to do it. I have a manual tranny so i dont really notice it but i since i had the car the ks has been screwed.
I can get the U joint in there with the socket and extension but i cant get the fawking bolt to loosen urgh!!!!
I tried to change it for 1.5 hrs and i cannot get the old one off. That bolt is super tight. Im so pissed!!! I think u guys have an older model 1995 or 1996. The 97 max is wicked hard. I can reach it with the 12mm wrench but i dont have enough clearance to torque it adequately. I dont wanna pay 250 to some mechanic to do it. I have a manual tranny so i dont really notice it but i since i had the car the ks has been screwed.
I can get the U joint in there with the socket and extension but i cant get the fawking bolt to loosen urgh!!!!
09-28-2009, 10:29 AM
#85
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
I saw the liquid wrench and im gonna to buy that stuff and maybe a syringe so i can put a liberal amount on the bolt. Freakin bolt pissed me off bad.
Did u guys need any of that stuff to remove the bolt?
Did u guys need any of that stuff to remove the bolt?
09-28-2009, 10:31 AM
#86
I've done my Max and a friend's Max. No lubricants needed. IIRC, the KS bolt is only torqued to like 15 to 20 ft-lbs.
09-28-2009, 10:43 AM
#87
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Wiz...how did u remove yurs?
There is a a green capped connector at the opening for the KS canal(if u wanna call it that) that makes it harder to remove. Either way im gonna buy that liquid wrench stuff and use a hammer for extra leverage to turn.
There is a a green capped connector at the opening for the KS canal(if u wanna call it that) that makes it harder to remove. Either way im gonna buy that liquid wrench stuff and use a hammer for extra leverage to turn.
09-28-2009, 10:50 AM
#88
With similar tools just like the ones listed in this thread.
You can disconnect the green connector, right? Remove/disconnect as many as the easy things as possible.
You can disconnect the green connector, right? Remove/disconnect as many as the easy things as possible.
09-28-2009, 11:04 PM
#92
No sir, popped right out... if you're anywhere near chicago I can probably lend a hand
09-29-2009, 06:39 AM
#93
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
I finally removed my KS last night...got the bruises and cuts to prove it lol.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
09-29-2009, 09:32 AM
#94
I finally removed my KS last night...got the bruises and cuts to prove it lol.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
You just saved yourself a ton of $$ by doing it yourself too.
10-01-2009, 02:19 PM
#97
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 53
I finally removed my KS last night...got the bruises and cuts to prove it lol.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
Have you changed the KS ? what's your impression ?
He just said he changed it, and the Max has it's power back ie "ballsy" .....
10-01-2009, 03:01 PM
#101
10-01-2009, 03:24 PM
#102
Its not the only way. I removed my girls knock sensor without unplugging that plug in less than 2 mins with a swivel last night.
Last edited by ajcool2; 10-01-2009 at 03:27 PM.
10-01-2009, 05:19 PM
#103
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
10-01-2009, 09:12 PM
#105
10-02-2009, 04:32 AM
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
If you look at the picture in post 61 it is screwed down and with hoses, tight access to unscrew the underside, but otherwise there is really no room to manouver.
Last edited by holymoly; 10-02-2009 at 05:49 AM.
10-02-2009, 05:32 AM
#107
Just wanted to let you guys know that I have brand new Nissan OEM knock sensors for sale for $55 SHIPPED to your door! These list for $188.77 at the retail counter. NEW, never opened, direct from Nissan. My feedback speaks for itself. Paypal: dj4twenty@***.net Ship next day. I have 5 available.. 
10-02-2009, 07:39 AM
#108
10-02-2009, 07:45 AM
#109
I finally removed my KS last night...got the bruises and cuts to prove it lol.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
This is how i did it:
I used some PB blaster and soaked the KS and bolt. Then i let it sit for 2 hrs cuz i had to wait for the engine to cool. I tried a bunch of methods but the one that worked was- i used a 12mm wrench and secured the closed end to the KS bolt. I then connected 2 socket extensions, the 6 and 9 inch i think. Then using the engine block as sort as a pivot/support, i inserted the extension into the open end of the wrench and torqued the wrench until the nut finally loosened! Once the nut was loosened the rest was cake. (my hand fit into the engine KS cavity to hand turn the bolt)
Thanks ppl for the ideas.
Oh and the old KS was cracked and def needed to be replaced. Now 4th gear is ballsy hehe.
Nice. The knock sensor has been a pain in my *** the last few years. Mainly because I was using used ones from the junkyard but now I'm running a resistor so I dont have to deal with it anymore.
10-02-2009, 08:43 AM
#110
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Holymoly man...u been at it a lil while. It sucks i kno
Before i removed mine...i thought about removing that green connector too. But in the end i didnt have too. Have u been able to get yur hand into the cavity for the KS? CAn u get a 12mm to the KS bolt?
THe problem is that there is not enough room to adequately torque the wrench to loosen the bolt. My KS bolt was on SUPER tight. PIDA!!!!
You have to figure out a way to torque the wrench either by taping some wrenches together to make a longer lever arm(didnt work for me but u can try) or by the method i described before.
10-02-2009, 09:05 AM
#111
On th flip side, most people don't even bother with this besides temporarily unplugging it. I don't really understand you're having such a hard time.
10-02-2009, 09:49 AM
#112
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
I disagree. I looked at my own Max and can easily access the green EGRC solenoid you're talking about and do what I stated above. No other tools required, just needle nose pliers.
On th flip side, most people don't even bother with this besides temporarily unplugging it. I don't really understand you're having such a hard time.
On th flip side, most people don't even bother with this besides temporarily unplugging it. I don't really understand you're having such a hard time.
Then I can get the wrench in there and lay it flat. Tonight.
10-02-2009, 03:14 PM
#113
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
I have figured out the right extension length of the rachet and am easily able to seat the swivel socket on the bolt.
Trying to untighten with rachet the socket easily falls off with even slight pressure. Any ideas?
Trying to untighten with rachet the socket easily falls off with even slight pressure. Any ideas?
Last edited by holymoly; 10-02-2009 at 03:33 PM.
10-02-2009, 04:39 PM
#114
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mississauga, Ontario
Posts: 438
I got it! Finally it was jamming the wrench extension against manifold I was able to loosen and with my long skinny fingers even could screw it back in with my hands.
And yes, It does have more jump.
Thanks all.
And yes, It does have more jump.
Thanks all.
10-02-2009, 11:55 PM
#116
