slfalco

Quick questions, I just discovered my axle boot is torn and I am hearing clunking noises...
1) does MT gear oil have to be drained to change axle?
2) if so, does 5 qts sound right for the capacity?
3) I assume procedure is to remove axle nut, split tie rod end, disconnect lower strut mount, pop axle out of hub, then remove 3 carrier bolts and just pull like h#$# to dislodge it. Anything else?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

You do not have to drain the oil, however oil will come out if you do not. If it has been over 15k since your last transmission oil change, I would just drain and replace. Otherwise, pick up a couple quarts and just replace whatever drains out.

5 quarts is correct for the capacity.

That procedure is correct, though you should not have to pull like crazy to get it out. There is no retaining ring on the passenger side, unless your bearing support is rusted up, it should slide out pretty easy. Be careful when removing the old axle, and especially when installing the new axle, that you do not damage the oil seal at all. Just a little nick or dent and your going to have a leak, and the passenger side seal can be a PITA to replace. Make sure to torque your axle nut to spec as well, don't want to have wheel bearing problems later.

slfalco

Thanks.. I did the driver's axle some years back... I will replace the fluid, since it was last replaced at 60K with Redline MT90, and I have 145K now... I will go with MT90 again... I did search and see some horror stories about the carrier being rusted up, hopefully I'll have better luck...

davey6693

In my case, the region where the axle bolts in to the support (the area with three bolts away from the tranny), was the source of biggest misery. I had to carefully pry all the way round with a screwdriver before it started moving. Conceptually though, not a hard install.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

you don't have to split the tie rod end. You can change the axle without doing that.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

You do not need to seperate the tie rod, just the strut at the knuckle. I'd remove the caliper and wire it to the coil spring so as not to pull on the hose.

komik

I didn't remove the caliper on mine, but I did remove the strut / spring assembly to get it out of the way. No problems pulling on the brake line.

The seal is a biotch to replace. When I put the first one in, all the fluid leaked out because I put it in too far. I took the axle back out, replaced the seal again and now I have a small leak. Until I get around to replacing the seal a third time (or paying a professional to do it), I will just stick to driving my truck most of the time and topping off the gear oil in the Max every couple weeks.

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

I replaced the outer boot on both sides recently and all you need to do is disconnect the strut from the knuckle to remove the axle. If the bearing support is rusted fast, unbolt it from the block fist, then you can work on it on the bench, instead of under the car. Use anti-seize when you reassemble the bearing support. I also used synthetic steel wool to remove some of the corrosion from the mating surfaces of the bearing support to allow it to be assembled easier. I live in western PA and they use a lot of salt here, so after 12 years, it was pretty badly rusted together.

slfalco

OK, I got the job done... Some observations...
1) could not get a box end wrench on the drain plug for the trans. I ended up loosening the bolts that hold on the bracket that is in the way, gave me the clearance I needed.
2) thought to remove the ABS sensor so as not to damage it, but it was really stuck (rust). Left it on....
3) lot of hammering with a screwdriver then chisel to get the axle center out from the bracket. I was going to remove the bracket, but there was no way I could get a wrench on those bolts... finally got the thing separated about a 1/2 inch, then kept pulling on the axle (nice slidehammer effect) to free it.

Other than that, not too difficult.. Thanks all for the tips.... Used Raxles for the replacement, Redline MT90 for gear oil, good to go!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yea, the front ABS sensors never want to come out, you're much more likely to destroy it.

Why a wrench? 1/2" ratchet, 1" extension, and a 14mm deep socket (all Craftsman) get to the three carrier bracket bolts perfectly.

slfalco

When I said wrench, I meant anything I had... I could get a socket on the bolts, but there was little to no room to swing the ratchet handle, the exhaust was in the way (I have Calif spec emissions, here in NY).... An air ratchet was the only thing I could see working, but I didn't waste a lot of time once I could see that the axle was backing out.... I used anti-seize on it now, so if there is a next time, it should come out much easier....

StevieB

iTrader: (1)

Having just replaced the driver's side axle and spent far too much time on it (removal/reinstall to investigate a noise which turned out to be the strut bearing, then damaging the axle seal on the reinstall requiring seal replacement and a 3rd reinstall) I want to be sure I have a clear idea of the possible obstacles on the passenger side before tackling it. I fully expect a problem with the bearing holder due to corrosion, but my question relates to the bearing itself. Did you collectively transfer the old bearing to the new axle? How did you remove and reinstall it? IE, can it be tapped/drifted off the axle and reinstalled in the same way, or did it require a visit to a shop to have it pressed off and back on? THE FSM seems to suggest tap/drift but Haynes says take it to a shop. Thanks

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Neither; axles come with the bearing already installed.

StevieB

iTrader: (1)

oh my my...now I'm embarrassed ...I received a nice new EMPI axle yesterday, but didn't take the time to look at it very closely, so didn't even notice it has the bearing and housing installed . Thanks for the wake up.
..I need a vacation