Madmaxima95

I'll post specific codes tomorrow, but wanted to get this started to get some input.
Started to smell gas backing out of the driveway, and car had been noticably more difficult to start. Upon driving a little farther the car started to smoke at idle (white). I am familiar with typical head gasket symptoms, I am not losing or mixing coolant/oil.
Since, the car is smoking something ridiculous, runs very poorly(missing) , There is a very strong odor of unburned fuel out of the exhaust, and it drips fluid out the tailpipe.No smell of coolant. I pulled the plugs and the rear three are wet after running only for a short time. I am afraid to drive it for fear of fuel in the oil. The short bit I did drive used about a quarter tank of gas in 25 or so miles.

I have replaced all three rear injectors, swapped coils around with the one new one I have, and changed the o2 sensor for the rear bank. I have changed the MAF somewhat recently as well as the knock sensor.

I'll pull the codes tomorrow, however I have been running it while unplugging coils and such so there could be a lot of them.

What can cause the rear bank to run so ridicolously rich??? All three coils, including the new one bad??? New injectors junk??? ( they all test out to about 11.5 ohms)
Any help is very much appreciated guys, this is my first thread.

It is a 95 5MT 165k miles

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

When you replaced the injectors, are you sure you didn't tear any o-rings?

Have you visually checked the spray pattern and for leaks?

Can you identify which cylinder it's missing on? Or is it only running on 3 cylinders?

Madmaxima95

I have made the mistake of tearing o rings when I did an injector before, and it leaked. I does not appear that the orings are leaking this time. I put a small amount of oil on the o rings before I slipped them in this time. I just used the caps to seat them in place. I have not pulled the whole rail out to check spray pattern however. It appears to be the number one cylinder with the misfire, as idle doesnt change when i unplug coil #1. Number one is the cylinder that I put my new coil on, as I only have one, but it did not seem to help.

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Any idea if this fluid out of the tail is water or gas? My friends focus actually projected water out of his exhaust. Just a check.

Madmaxima95

I imagine a lot of it is condensation, but it smells just like some stale gasoline. It also doesnt seem to matter if I run the engine for 30 seconds or ten minutes, i stillhave the drip. It is about 80 degrees here today so I just dont think it could be all water.I tried to light it with a lighter unsuccesfully though. When I had my plugs out, i noticed fumes coming out of the plug holes and was able to light those and extinguish them quickly thankfully.

jdooley

This is just conjecture but it sounds to me like some kinda wiring harness short that is somehow supplying voltage to the rear injectors all the time or, possibly, being told to stay open more often by being shorted to some other pulsing signal.

I wouldn't think a bad ground would cause such behaviour but that would be worth a look also. I didn't see anything on the circuit diagram that would affect just the rear injectors.

If I had such a problem I would look at the signals going to each injector with an oscilliscope and make sure they are all the same. If you don't have a scope available (certainly not many do) then you may have to take it to a garage to have the signals looked at.

Madmaxima95

Would I backprobe the wires on the injector harnesses one at a time while its running then?, and look for the same waveform? If I understand correctly, the pulses are so fast that a regular meter will not detect this?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Check the pins in both the injector plug and the coil plug. They can bend easily causing the item it's attached to not to fire. Don't ask me how I know this.....

Condensation is a by-product of combustion, water in your exhaust is actually pretty normal. As the system gets very hot it usually evaporates and you don't see it. However, while the system is still cool you will most likely see water exiting from the tail pipe.

Madmaxima95

Thanks, I'll check the pins and see if any have been bent. I hadn't been working on the car in the 2 months before this problem came up though. I'll check them anyway. We've all seen the watter coming out of the tailpipe, but it shouldnt smell like a gas station when the car is running. It was so bad that when I changed the oxygen sensor it was drippuing with what I beleive to be fuel. Keep the advice coming guys, I really do appreciate it. I like this car a lot when it is 100% and will do almost anything to fix it, but I do need some direction. BTW I have NGK iridium laser plugs in the car, are these known to fail? Perhaps I should start by putting in all new NGK platinums for what it's worth.

jdooley

If we accept the three rear spark plugs being wet as fact, I would find it unlikely that you may have bent the pins on the three injectors, plus I assume you replaced the injectors to fix the problem?

Backprobing is fine. There is no signal a car can create that a modern oscilliscope can't look at. A "regular" meter is almost useless when it comes to reading a pulsing DC signal. Just for clarity, do you consider a "regular" meter to be a digital meter or an analog one? Actually a good quality analog meter might reveal something, at least at idle.

Madmaxima95

I did replace the rear injecors to no avail.
I have an old quality analog meter and a cheap digital one. I might try hooking the analog one up to see the voltage at least.

Madmaxima95

Pulled the codes:

0701 -Mutliple Cylinder Misfire (which we knew)

0901 -Front Right heated o2 Sensor Heater

0201- Ignition Signal Circuit - This is confusing to me...

0401 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor

0501 - Front Right heated o2 Sensor

Madmaxima95

I removed the Crank PS fron the bell housing of the trans and it was very dirty, appeared to have magnet shavings?? all over it. Does the flywheel have magnets on it that this thing reads or does it do it from the teeth? Cleaned it off and will try to 5v screwdriver test next.
Also removed the other CPS above the oil pan, resistance measures 540K ohms, the FSM says, 520 OHMS + - 50 ohms, not 520,000 ohms. Is this possibly a mistake or is it that far out of spec??

Also, just found out that the engine dies immediately if I pull the fuel pump fuse. Something definitley seems fishy with these new injectors or some kind of signal to the injectors.


UPDATE:
Major props to pmohr. When you mentioned the O-rings, I was very ignorant and was only thinking about the one on top. This is one of those N0 Sh## things I should have been aware of.
ALL THREE of the lower O-rings on the rear injectors were torn when I removed them. I tried to be very gentle on the install but apparently I screwed up. I removed the UIM and flipped the key on. After I turned the key back off, two of the three injector were still dripping (leaking).

Madmaxima95

Are injector o-rings ready available at Autozone or the like???