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"should Nissan have tested the 4th gen for 100k+ miles, simply to ensure the EGR won't clog? "
Yes, ours clogged at 70,000
dealer charged 425 to unclog it
Ironically, the EGR on my 96 with almost 250k miles on it was not clogged.
__________________ 2000 SE 5spd Black/Black Timing Advanced to 17 BTDC ; Place Racing CAI ; Unorthodox Racing UDP ; JWT Stage 1 Clutch ; Cattman Headers; Cattman Mid Pipe ; Tokiko Illuminas/Eibach Springs ; Pacesetter STS ; Courtesy FTSB ; Pilot Sport A/S 225/50/17
u can do that, but its not that hard to see where what goes. the reason why people dont take it off i think, is because they dont want to change the gasket between the throttle body and the IM
come on people. i am a newb, and i took off the intake manifold off at least 5 times. no problems.
heres a little tip.
1. i never installed the brackets in the rear. you dont really need them.
2. you dont have to connect the hoses in the back. the ones that go to the EGR. there is a way to hack it. just folow the lines and you will be able to see really easily. (maybe i can take some pictures tomorrow)
3. have a box where you can put all your bolts. i lost 2 bolts before. PITA to get them back.
First time pulling the UIM on my 2000 i30 for a valve cover gasket change. Can someone tell me what these brackets are for, and why we wouldn't need to replace them upon replacing the manifold? (We are talking about the ones just in front of the firewall, the passenger side has 4, 12 mm bolts, and the driver side has 2?)
Also, what would be the hose routing without these egr hoses connected as the above poster has mentioned? what would be the consequences of not reattaching them?
Also, i haven't gotten those bolts off yet, and hope to soon, after all the bolts are removed, (or assumed to be) from the upper air intake, how stuck is it going to be? Basically, going in there is this something i need to take a gentle blows of a mallet with to make it budge? or if i need to resort to that, it only means there may be some bolts i have missed.
Also, this is tough for me, as all the writeups seem to be for gen 4, or 5.5. and I have 5. if anyone is sitting on a walkthrough for a 5th gen for valve gasket removal and manifold removal, or how it differs from this great writeup, i would greatly appreciate it!
First time pulling the UIM on my 2000 i30 for a valve cover gasket change. Can someone tell me what these brackets are for, and why we wouldn't need to replace them upon replacing the manifold? (We are talking about the ones just in front of the firewall, the passenger side has 4, 12 mm bolts, and the driver side has 2?)
Also, what would be the hose routing without these egr hoses connected as the above poster has mentioned? what would be the consequences of not reattaching them?
Also, i haven't gotten those bolts off yet, and hope to soon, after all the bolts are removed, (or assumed to be) from the upper air intake, how stuck is it going to be? Basically, going in there is this something i need to take a gentle blows of a mallet with to make it budge? or if i need to resort to that, it only means there may be some bolts i have missed.
Also, this is tough for me, as all the writeups seem to be for gen 4, or 5.5. and I have 5. if anyone is sitting on a walkthrough for a 5th gen for valve gasket removal and manifold removal, or how it differs from this great writeup, i would greatly appreciate it!
thanks
The two support brackets are, IMO, completely unnecessary.
Once you've removed all the bolts, the intake will just lift off. Beat it, and you'll likely break it (unlike the cast aluminum intakes, which will take some abuse).
Look through the 00VI threads, they pretty much cover removal/installation (especially Ceaser's thread).
Great write-up. Wish I found this thread before I tackled mine. Just finished and I forgot to reconnect the rear u-shaped coolant line. Coolant everywhere.
Anyone know how to install it without taking off the UIM? Otherwise, I'm tearing her off again tomorrow morning. Argh...
my 98 max just died on me,my mechanic told me its the battery and the starter and quoted me 600 for both with labor i think that's to expensive i refuse to get ripped off so im going to try to replace the starter myself.with no mechanical experience do you guys think it to hard for my first project?i have to admit this thread made everything look so easy i feel like i can do it.
my 98 max just died on me,my mechanic told me its the battery and the starter and quoted me 600 for both with labor i think that's to expensive i refuse to get ripped off so im going to try to replace the starter myself.with no mechanical experience do you guys think it to hard for my first project?i have to admit this thread made everything look so easy i feel like i can do it.
Along the same lines ... as I will use this guide to install MEVI
I have been given a MEVI but the rear coolant pipe has broken off..
How do you reroute/baypass it? And is it bad to do so
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So, how long should they test it? AFAIK, most people didn't have problems with the EGR clogging on 4th gens 'till well after the warranty period...should Nissan have tested the 4th gen for 100k+ miles, simply to ensure the EGR won't clog?
Perhaps the design isn't the best, but they DO have a budget to work with, as well as physical constraints and other limitations.
just my $.02
Every car has stupid designs of some orientation or component in it. Typically, even if the engineer(s) figure out there is a problem, management has some bs deadline they've lied about and will start forcing designs forward even if they are not ideal.
Also, I think the basic VQ was developed to not go into a fwd sedan, so some things that are pretty stupid might have been almost unavoidable without huge re-designs.
AND, at the time, Nissan financially was going down the toilet, so the pressure might have been greater right around the 4th gen time before Renault bought them
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