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After reading the review it seemed a little bague regarding wheel hop (no offense). Could you please be more specific as to whether its eliminated or drasticaly reduced?
Man you beat me to it.. no WAY in hell am i gonna pay 170 bucks for this.. its not even worth 20 bucks in steel.. sorry guys but its true... and for 170 you can get all new motor mounts
ha, for less then $170 you can get all new mounts. As I did and man the difference was unbelievable.
IF this kit came with 2 braces that would be a better deal. That way the braces "help" the motor mounts and prevent them from wearing out faster.
__________________ G4 Black on Black leather 5spd SE |Shaved Rear w/ Black Nissan logo | TK Premium Tints, 25% rear/35% sides/5% sunroof| XStorm 6k HIDs | AE Black trim Headlights |Black bumper lens| Stillen K&N Short ram WAI | LSS Y-pipe |Magnaflow catback w/4" chrome tip | Team Voodoo shift knob | New europe Leather steering wheel cover | Strut tower bar | Brembo Custom Slotted-Dimpled Rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads |
That's the reason why no one makes/sells aftermarket parts for us anymore. Congrats.
Well and the fact that the car is getting old and it is an inexpensive car right now used as it is. Why pay so much (like 7-8times the cost of the product) for an upgraded performance part for partial gains too medicre gains?
There is a reason why we bought this car in the first place. Cheap, Reliable, cheap parts, Good support, quick enough to beat or keep up most cars in its class and lower, good looking and well luxary.
I mean these cars go for 2-3 grand. So why would someone pay say $1200-$1400 bucks for a say a limited slip Diff that will get you good performance but at the same time it is not really a necessities too have for a a car that does less then 15 secs? It is bad enough that people laugh at us for thinking are maximas are quick. When they are. Not too mention one of the best price/performance ratio cars out right now next too a Mustang and those are not even reliable as much.
__________________ G4 Black on Black leather 5spd SE |Shaved Rear w/ Black Nissan logo | TK Premium Tints, 25% rear/35% sides/5% sunroof| XStorm 6k HIDs | AE Black trim Headlights |Black bumper lens| Stillen K&N Short ram WAI | LSS Y-pipe |Magnaflow catback w/4" chrome tip | Team Voodoo shift knob | New europe Leather steering wheel cover | Strut tower bar | Brembo Custom Slotted-Dimpled Rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads |
Well and the fact that the car is getting old and it is an inexpensive car right now used as it is. Why pay so much (like 7-8times the cost of the product) for an upgraded performance part for partial gains too medicre gains?
There is a reason why we bought this car in the first place. Cheap, Reliable, cheap parts, Good support, quick enough to beat or keep up most cars in its class and lower, good looking and well luxary.
I mean these cars go for 2-3 grand. So why would someone pay say $1200-$1400 bucks for a say a limited slip Diff that will get you good performance but at the same time it is not really a necessities too have for a a car that does less then 15 secs? It is bad enough that people laugh at us for thinking are maximas are quick. When they are. Not too mention one of the best price/performance ratio cars out right now next too a Mustang and those are not even reliable as much.
Obviously, you are not the person this part is marketed to. Clearly, you should stick to Egay for all of your 'performance' parts.
How do you know how much it actually cost him to produce this part? Please post the thread where he listed his production cost, or are you just ASSuming?
Having custom parts machined in small quantities is NOT cheap, but obviously you have some insider information, so please share.
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98 SE - VQ35
2k SE - Stock... pretty much
Boost, juice, conversions, been there, done that.
Wheel hop is reduced drastically. I will let you know more as soon as I go boost.
As far as this product. Go ahead and make it... I would love to see how it looks and functions for less than 50 bucks. You can't expect a SMALL company to offer CUSTOM parts for mass produced prices. We drive maximas.
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97 Pearl White Max GLE
I has car
And the saying is true, you gotta PAY to PLAY. I have done plenty of mods cheap on my car and I have spent the money when needed. I already have poly filled mounts and this mod STILL made a difference to me. IMO it won't be as big of a difference in an automatic, but in a manual car I believe this is a must.
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97 Pearl White Max GLE
I has car
...I already have poly filled mounts and this mod STILL made a difference to me. IMO it won't be as big of a difference in an automatic, but in a manual car I believe this is a must.
I dunno, I'm all for supporting Aaron, don't get me wrong... and I certainly have no issue "paying to play"...but I only see this as a significant improvement if you've already got a weak link somewhere. When I re-did my suspension a couple years ago, installed coilovers, new ball joints and end links and put ES bushings everywhere, plus ES motor mounts, I had a rock solid TIGHT front end that I could not get to wheel hop even if I tried, and you know I put the car through some violent launches... In fact doing those improvements I even got rid of the J-bars I had with no decrease in traction at all.
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2000. 3L. 5-spd. Black on black. SE. (DD)
1998. 3L. 5-spd. Sterling Mist. SE. (fun car)
1/4 mile stats (all N/A VQ30):
Best 60': 1.73
Best ET & trap: 12.61, 108.98 mph
Click to see the video. More videos also here.
Mods list and dyno here (as of May 9/08).
My EU writeup can be found at VQ Power.
im grateful for the fact that Aaron makes parts for our cars that no one else makes, and they are very high quality. Im hoping to pick this up in another paycheck or two and try it out, especially since I always wanted the J-bars and I get pretty bad wheel hop.
And as far as the value of our maximas...my maxima is priceless to me. Plus, Id rather buy a cheaper car, and have money to mod it, than buy an expensive car and not have any money to mod.
__________________ I like to "do it myself" 5MT SE 96er:
MEVI + NWP Spacers, Full Exhaust, Flywheel, lotsa more: MOD LIST
Quote:
Originally Posted by ironwork
i am knew to this forum am i am amazed at how costructive your arguments are. no flameing and well thought posts.
Obviously, [color="Magenta"]
How do you know how much it actually cost him to produce this part? Please post the thread where he listed his production cost, or are you just ASSuming?
Having custom parts machined in small quantities is NOT cheap, but obviously you have some insider information, so please share.
It depends.. these parts are NOT complicated... i work CNC's iv been to over a thousand shops and factories in the last 2 years.. So i have some experience and you would be surprized how much these cost to make... actually at the moment im sitting next to a laser that cuts these..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Keep this thread on track or bans will start flying.
Debate the product in all its perceived merits or lack thereof, but do not go off on tangents.
Why start banning.. we cant discuss our opinions on this forum anymore?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmohr
Indeed. It also helps that parts for the old, cheap, widely available cars (like the A32) typically don't cost very much at all.
parts dont cost much?.... everything on this car is at least 2 or 3 times more expensive than on a regular widely available American car..
but anyway.... my question is how much engine vibration is there after installing this??
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Last edited by f550maranello2; 07-21-2009 at 05:11 PM.
parts dont cost much?.... everything on this car is at least 2 or 3 times more expensive than on a regular widely available American car..
Not true.
And what do you expect, some domestics have been using all but the same parts for the last 30 years. You can sell parts for cheap, because it's cheap to make cheap parts.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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1995 maxima SE
MODS: K2 intake, alpine deck
1997 maxima SE
MODS: tint, K2 Cold Air Intake, yellow fog lights, clear corners, Megan racing upper strut bar, momo shift knob, pacesetter short shifter, warpspeed Y pipe, megan racing Test pipe, Ksport GT springs, magnaflow muffler
I have ES & poly filled everything & You will be surprised how much the drivetrain still moves.
I can clearly see how this product will increase my performance(traction), & I am glad I dont have to weld up a ugly, home made brace anymore
Why start banning.. we cant discuss our opinions on this forum anymore?
Read my post. I said discuss the product all you want. I will ban people for excessive smack talking or going totally off on tangents like the posts which you can't see (but that moderators can) because they were deleted.
__________________ 95 SE - Stock 3.0L w/ USIM - T61/P-trim @ 14.5psi - 93 octane
11.76 @ 121 - 1.82 60' - ET Street DOTs
12.15 @ 123 - 1.95 60' - Nitto DR 3.5L swap with I/Y/E
12.92 @ 104 - 1.69 60' - M&H Slicks
13.60 @ 103 - 2.15 60' - Street tires
I dunno, I'm all for supporting Aaron, don't get me wrong... and I certainly have no issue "paying to play"...but I only see this as a significant improvement if you've already got a weak link somewhere. When I re-did my suspension a couple years ago, installed coilovers, new ball joints and end links and put ES bushings everywhere, plus ES motor mounts, I had a rock solid TIGHT front end that I could not get to wheel hop even if I tried, and you know I put the car through some violent launches... In fact doing those improvements I even got rid of the J-bars I had with no decrease in traction at all.
I am running the H&R springs so that is also prob why. I know it's not for everyone since everyone has a different setup.
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97 Pearl White Max GLE
I has car
im grateful for the fact that Aaron makes parts for our cars that no one else makes, and they are very high quality. Im hoping to pick this up in another paycheck or two and try it out, especially since I always wanted the J-bars and I get pretty bad wheel hop.
And as far as the value of our maximas...my maxima is priceless to me. Plus, Id rather buy a cheaper car, and have money to mod it, than buy an expensive car and not have any money to mod.
Totally
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Man who drive like hell bound to get there
I just ordered these from NWP. Kevlo's review was a big factor in deciding to unearth the wallet and wipe all the dust off.
I'm looking forward to this little mod, and will post a review once it's installed and some spirited miles are put on it. It will be put on a 4gen 5sp. w/coilovers, poly motor mounts, relatively new tie rods, raxles, and end link bushings; this should be a nice enhancement.
I just ordered these from NWP. Kevlo's review was a big factor in deciding to unearth the wallet and wipe all the dust off.
I'm looking forward to this little mod, and will post a review once it's installed and some spirited miles are put on it. It will be put on a 4gen 5sp. w/coilovers, poly motor mounts, relatively new tie rods, raxles, and end link bushings; this should be a nice enhancement.
Yes definitely! Thanks.
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NWP Engineering Phenolic Thermal Intake Spacers 10hp and 12ft-lb gain & 40°F temp drop on the VQ35DE
You'd be surprised at the way a car shifts when the engine is suppressed from movement.
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2006 Dodge Durango 4.7 Superchipped
Modded 97 GXE Auto [Yeah she can run, but now she needs a kick in the arse!]
15.6 Stock 1/4 Mile
Man you beat me to it.. no WAY in hell am i gonna pay 170 bucks for this.. its not even worth 20 bucks in steel.. sorry guys but its true... and for 170 you can get all new motor mounts
Less than 100 on ebay for all 4. Just had all of mine replaced and they came with the brackets.
I'm courious to know if this will stop front end vibration though. I just changed all of my mounts and bushing and I'm getting vibration when taking a right turn with hard acceleration. It's got to be the motor moving.
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2006 Dodge Durango 4.7 Superchipped
Modded 97 GXE Auto [Yeah she can run, but now she needs a kick in the arse!]
15.6 Stock 1/4 Mile
Less than 100 on ebay for all 4. Just had all of mine replaced and they came with the brackets.
I'm courious to know if this will stop front end vibration though. I just changed all of my mounts and bushing and I'm getting vibration when taking a right turn with hard acceleration. It's got to be the motor moving.
if you think engine movement is the cause of your vibration, then definitely go for it. see, even with brand new OEM mounts, the engine still bounces/recoils against the edges of the mounts, just not as severely as worn-out mounts. The forces are amplified every time the engine's movement changes direction, hence the jerk. So even when you are just puttering along at 25mph in 2nd gear, if you are lifting on/off the gas alot, the engine keeps rocking back and forth, which on a manual car is VERY annoying. When the engine is held still, there is no amplification of force, because the engine cannot change direction, because it is not moving.
I made some ULTRA-ghetto metal motormount braces on my 3rd gen (i say ghetto, because i made them with a hacksaw and a strip of metal which was WAAAAY too thin for the job) and for the day or two before the rear one broke, my manual car was SMOOTHER than ANY automatic you've EVER driven... guaranteed. If I had a 95-03 Maxima I would eat nothing but Ramen for a month straight if that's what I had to do to afford this product. It will literally change how you feel about your car (for the better). And you can bet your arse that Aaron's product won't break like mine did lol.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
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.. New Zealand Maxima and Cefiro Owners Downunder .. www.maximasdownunder.org
Ex Toyota Corolla '87 1300 > Ex Cefiro Excimo 25 > Ex Toyota Corolla FXGT Ltd > Ex Pulsar GTiR > Ex Sentra 1300
> Cefiro VQ30 mevi@5300rpm / Exhaust / Y / [15.416@146km 1/4mile (fulltrim/tank)] > Maxima S VQ30 5Speed
If you guys would have came to Maxus 09' it was available for $140...lol, I have had mine since Maxus and i love it, once i seen it available on the NWP site I was so excited I tracked Aaron down pulled him out of the bar and bought it immediately.
Buy it you will not regret it one bit, well worth the the asking price of $170.
Completely eliminated my Wheel hop, and yes i did have ES motor mounts and urethane diy filled Side motor mount and Tranny mount prior to installing this and still had wheel hop...I also leave it hooked up all the time
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NWP Spacers,Vias Block,Engine Torque Link/Injen short ram/Stronger 2k1 MAF/Injen Filter/ES UMMB/UR Underdrive Pulley/Stillen Grounding Kit/Technosquare Reflash/Spec Stage 2+/Fidanza Flywheel/Cattman Headers/O2 Sim/True Dual 2.5” Exhaust/Progress Springs, RSB, Custom Maxima FSTB/Stillen RSTB/Tokico Blue Struts/Ksport BBK/Hella supertones
MAXUS 09' VIDhttp://videos.streetfire.net/video/M...-09_698281.htm
Where are the moderators???? This guy should have been banned after his first reply when he first joined this forum! I'm totally in awe with his behavior and ruthless antics on someone else's thread!!!!! I believe he's broken every rule at least twice...????????
It even helps when you are driving normally and let off the gas; say in 1st gear you hit like 3k rpms and let off the gas, it is much smoother and does not jerk like it used to.
THAT's what i like to hear.. that will probably make me buy this product.. that jerking is INCREDIBLY annoying
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2003 6 speed TE
Looks: Superwhite LEDs Inside Smoked Side Markers
Performance: Stillen Intake with Custom MAF-TB Pipe, NWP Phenolic Intake Spacers, NWP Block Off Plate, Cattman Gen 3 Headers, Custom 3" Magnaflow Cat-back Exhaust
Suspension: Tokico Illumina Struts, Ebay FSTB, Progress RSB
Automatics tend to not get wheel hop, the torque converter and trans soak up most of the shock that would induce it.
My car definitely wheel hops in the rain.
Does this torque link help reduce wheel spin, especially on right turns? Really irritating when you have to make a quick right turn and the right front tire goes up in smoke and the transmission immediately shifts into 2nd. Or you have to hold the shifter in 1st and hope you don't smoke a $150 tire too badly.
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2002 Maxima SE, NWP block plate, GAB, K&N panel filter, Vibrant FSTB, grounding kit.
Man you beat me to it.. no WAY in hell am i gonna pay 170 bucks for this.. its not even worth 20 bucks in steel.. sorry guys but its true... and for 170 you can get all new motor mounts
When I do a full paint correction on a car, I may use $7-8 worth of polishes or waxes but I guarantee you get your $350-500+ worth of improved appearance.
A 32 oz soda at a fast food place has a cost to the restaurant of 8-9 cents including the cost of the cup yet they charge $1.49. There are a lot more costs than just the base materials involved.
Does this torque link help reduce wheel spin, especially on right turns? Really irritating when you have to make a quick right turn and the right front tire goes up in smoke and the transmission immediately shifts into 2nd. Or you have to hold the shifter in 1st and hope you don't smoke a $150 tire too badly.
You will still be able to spin the tires. That's the VQ35 power! But with the engine properly held in place with this Torque Link, traction should be improved. But most of all, you will be more in tune with your engine and you should be able to control your traction easier. And if you do have wheel hop problems, this will definitely help that.
__________________
NWP Engineering Phenolic Thermal Intake Spacers 10hp and 12ft-lb gain & 40°F temp drop on the VQ35DE
G4 Black on Black leather 5spd SE |Shaved Rear w/ Black Nissan logo | TK Premium Tints, 25% rear/35% sides/5% sunroof| XStorm 6k HIDs | AE Black trim Headlights |Black bumper lens| Stillen K&N Short ram WAI | LSS Y-pipe |Magnaflow catback w/4" chrome tip | Team Voodoo shift knob | New europe Leather steering wheel cover | Strut tower bar | Brembo Custom Slotted-Dimpled Rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads |
In fact doing those improvements I even got rid of the J-bars I had with no decrease in traction at all.
Linear Mode
