Led Interior problem + pics
06-05-2009, 07:24 PM
#1
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Led Interior problem + pics
I tried to install leds in door light, but got a strange problem.
The leds light up when the door is closed and open which doesn't make sense.
When I put a regular bulb in it, it lights up only with door open.
I even tried to stick a led directly into harness connector, and it lights up with closed door too.
I connected 3 flat top 5000 mcd leds with 1 resistor.
Please let me know what I did wrong ; I don't have experience with leds and soldering.
The leds light up when the door is closed and open which doesn't make sense.
When I put a regular bulb in it, it lights up only with door open.
I even tried to stick a led directly into harness connector, and it lights up with closed door too.
I connected 3 flat top 5000 mcd leds with 1 resistor.
Please let me know what I did wrong ; I don't have experience with leds and soldering.
Last edited by matrix11229; 06-05-2009 at 07:33 PM.
06-05-2009, 07:38 PM
#5
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I didn't plug the array directly, but I inserted one led directly into the harness and it was on with door open and closed.
I noticed that the original bulb connectors are located on opposite sides of the bulb base , like + on the bottom and - on the top flat side.
On my led board the positive and negative connectors are wraped around the holes and touch the base connectors on both sides (see pics 2,3).
Last edited by matrix11229; 06-05-2009 at 07:49 PM.
06-05-2009, 08:21 PM
#7
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* * *
* * *
Are they going to last longer that way ? I mean what's the difference between running series and parallel ?
06-05-2009, 08:31 PM
#8
right now i'm fairly sure your leds are being overdriven. the way you have it is parallel leds in series with a resistor. i would have to do some refreshing to figure out the numbers.
you're array should look like this:
+----|>|----|>|----|>|---/\/\/----+
a proper parallel array would look like this (resistor on each led):
+----|>|---/\/\/----+
+----|>|---/\/\/----+
+----|>|---/\/\/----+
series wiring will also distribute spikes across more components, lowering the chance for premature failure.
you're array should look like this:
+----|>|----|>|----|>|---/\/\/----+
a proper parallel array would look like this (resistor on each led):
+----|>|---/\/\/----+
+----|>|---/\/\/----+
+----|>|---/\/\/----+
series wiring will also distribute spikes across more components, lowering the chance for premature failure.
Last edited by BLACKonBLACK98; 06-05-2009 at 08:33 PM.
06-05-2009, 08:31 PM
#9
06-05-2009, 08:33 PM
#10
06-05-2009, 08:37 PM
#11
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"azsnap" did it , but he had a more powerful resistor. should I use 1/4w resistor for each bulb ?
ya, i bought LEDs for cheap and PC Board and did this project a few years back.
kevlo you did a great job. i'll add my pics so people have more reference as well.
how i did the courtest lights (in the door). you can google up 'led calculator' to figure out what ohm resistors you need depending on how many led's are in your array.
test fitting of the pc board i cut out in the map light. i had to do some dremeling and use one of the stock screws to hold the pcb in place.
back of the pcb. keep the soldering clean and make sure the contacts are firm. i recommend using flux and running the + and - in opposite directions.
how i put everything together. make sure you have a resistor in there
the what it looks like in, all ready to go
kevlo you did a great job. i'll add my pics so people have more reference as well.
how i did the courtest lights (in the door). you can google up 'led calculator' to figure out what ohm resistors you need depending on how many led's are in your array. test fitting of the pc board i cut out in the map light. i had to do some dremeling and use one of the stock screws to hold the pcb in place. back of the pcb. keep the soldering clean and make sure the contacts are firm. i recommend using flux and running the + and - in opposite directions.
how i put everything together. make sure you have a resistor in there
the what it looks like in, all ready to go
06-05-2009, 08:38 PM
#12
06-05-2009, 08:46 PM
#14
there's a difference between doing it right and doing something that may or may not work. it's really basic math and my suggestion is to understand it.
06-05-2009, 08:54 PM
#16
that i can't really answer... my first guess would be the contacts you mentioned.
for the led beginners, this is something i bookmarked when i first started playing with leds (although i already had an understanding of electronics):
http://members.misty.com/don/ledd.html
for the led beginners, this is something i bookmarked when i first started playing with leds (although i already had an understanding of electronics):
http://members.misty.com/don/ledd.html
06-06-2009, 03:18 PM
#18
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~Update~
I connected the led board directly to my other door harness and it works properly (off when doors closed). Also the leds seem to have more powerful light.
When I connect the led board to passenger door harness it lights up with door open and closed.
Also, I put the original bulb into the plastic base, connected it to the harness of pass. door, and it doesn't work at all now. I checked the other door and both the bulb and base work.
It didn't happen yesterday, so I don't know what's wrong with the harness. I don't see any damage in it.
Is there a way to take apart that door harness connector ?
I connected the led board directly to my other door harness and it works properly (off when doors closed). Also the leds seem to have more powerful light.
When I connect the led board to passenger door harness it lights up with door open and closed.
Also, I put the original bulb into the plastic base, connected it to the harness of pass. door, and it doesn't work at all now. I checked the other door and both the bulb and base work.
It didn't happen yesterday, so I don't know what's wrong with the harness. I don't see any damage in it.
Is there a way to take apart that door harness connector ?
Last edited by matrix11229; 06-06-2009 at 03:37 PM.
06-07-2009, 10:51 AM
#20
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Ok, I removed the door trim, cut off the connector wire (up to 1 1/2 feet), and checked the cut piece with a 9v battery - it works .
Then I tried to connect the original bulb to the remaining wire in the door, but it doesn't work.
When I connect my led board to the wire it lights up slightly (door open and closed).
I installed the board in driver door and it works perfectly.
I have no idea what's going on
, yesterday the bulb worked in passenger door ! (I tried different bulbs) , Did I create a short or something ?
Help
Then I tried to connect the original bulb to the remaining wire in the door, but it doesn't work.
When I connect my led board to the wire it lights up slightly (door open and closed).
I installed the board in driver door and it works perfectly.
I have no idea what's going on
, yesterday the bulb worked in passenger door ! (I tried different bulbs) , Did I create a short or something ?Help
06-07-2009, 09:28 PM
#21
when i had a similar problem before, someone mentioned it could be a bad BCM due to the leds being soldered to the car's wiring. Maybe something like that happened, but I don't know if you did that. Just throwing it out there...
06-07-2009, 10:43 PM
#22
Matrix - I have the answer to your problem! I know this is going to sound weird, but whatever door is acting suspect, you need to change the window switch! Let me explain: Each door is controlled by the window switch. The switch is actually a main relay for all the electronics in the door. The window will still work, and the switch still lights, so you would NEVER think it was that! If you dont believe it, grab a switch off someone elses Maxima and try it first! The same exact thing happened to me, and what caused it was my plugging in my LED panel backwards at first. Very sensitive electronics in the switch. Let me know how you make out! 
06-08-2009, 04:24 AM
#23
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Matrix - I have the answer to your problem! I know this is going to sound weird, but whatever door is acting suspect, you need to change the window switch! Let me explain: Each door is controlled by the window switch. The switch is actually a main relay for all the electronics in the door. The window will still work, and the switch still lights, so you would NEVER think it was that! If you dont believe it, grab a switch off someone elses Maxima and try it first! The same exact thing happened to me, and what caused it was my plugging in my LED panel backwards at first. Very sensitive electronics in the switch. Let me know how you make out!
06-08-2009, 04:31 AM
#24
06-08-2009, 09:57 AM
#25
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Location: Rockford, Michigan
Posts: 328
Matrix - I have the answer to your problem! I know this is going to sound weird, but whatever door is acting suspect, you need to change the window switch! Let me explain: Each door is controlled by the window switch. The switch is actually a main relay for all the electronics in the door. The window will still work, and the switch still lights, so you would NEVER think it was that! If you dont believe it, grab a switch off someone elses Maxima and try it first! The same exact thing happened to me, and what caused it was my plugging in my LED panel backwards at first. Very sensitive electronics in the switch. Let me know how you make out!
I've had problems with mine and it's kinda hit or miss. Both the switches I had ended up dying when I tried installing LED's. The second one died and I unplugged it for an hour came back plugged it in and it worked fine. Very strange.
06-08-2009, 05:30 PM
#27
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Matrix - I have the answer to your problem! I know this is going to sound weird, but whatever door is acting suspect, you need to change the window switch! Let me explain: Each door is controlled by the window switch. The switch is actually a main relay for all the electronics in the door. The window will still work, and the switch still lights, so you would NEVER think it was that! If you dont believe it, grab a switch off someone elses Maxima and try it first! The same exact thing happened to me, and what caused it was my plugging in my LED panel backwards at first. Very sensitive electronics in the switch. Let me know how you make out!
I plugged the drivers side switch to the passenger side and the step light worked !
Is there anything I can do to repair the switch ?
It sucks to buy another switch because of fracking steplight leds. Also I'm not sure that the one I could get off ebay will work with the step light.
06-08-2009, 05:59 PM
#28
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Posts: 54
I guess your only option is to buy another switch if you want to make your leds work. 
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Last edited by thomatt12; 06-30-2009 at 07:30 PM.
06-09-2009, 09:15 AM
#30
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Location: Rockford, Michigan
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Either a junkyard or from someone here will be MUCH cheaper. With a shop discount, the OEM switch was 96 dollars for me.
$45
07-19-2009, 02:49 PM
#33
Jeez...I just ran into the same problem with the door lights.
I just recently put leds in my window switches.
But that wasn't what made the voltage weird.
B4 I cut the door light harness, the multimeter read 12v when open and 0v when closed.
Now the voltage coming through with the door open is 4~5 volts and its 10~11v when its closed.
I first cut the driver side and it read a weird voltage. So on the passenger side, as soon as I cut the harness, i rewired the same harness right back to how it was. Then it became weird again.
I don't know what happened when I cut the door light harness, but I'm not convinced it is a problem with the window switch.
Thinking it was sensitive to the length of the wire, I lengthened the wire and the voltage moved up to 5~6 open and 12~13 closed.
Its so very strange, but its very frustrating. Has anyone tried hooking it up to the overhead light? I'm willing to do it if it works, I just don't want to pull my carpets up, run wire through my door wiring, just to find out its doing the same thing...
Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
I just recently put leds in my window switches.
But that wasn't what made the voltage weird.
B4 I cut the door light harness, the multimeter read 12v when open and 0v when closed.
Now the voltage coming through with the door open is 4~5 volts and its 10~11v when its closed.
I first cut the driver side and it read a weird voltage. So on the passenger side, as soon as I cut the harness, i rewired the same harness right back to how it was. Then it became weird again.
I don't know what happened when I cut the door light harness, but I'm not convinced it is a problem with the window switch.
Thinking it was sensitive to the length of the wire, I lengthened the wire and the voltage moved up to 5~6 open and 12~13 closed.
Its so very strange, but its very frustrating. Has anyone tried hooking it up to the overhead light? I'm willing to do it if it works, I just don't want to pull my carpets up, run wire through my door wiring, just to find out its doing the same thing...
Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
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