tallica62

Im at 151k miles and Ive been a little late with taking care of things. Im pretty sure there is a 140k mile maintenance, but the last time i did a full run through was 120k i think...my question is, im at 151k now, what should i do as far as keeping things in order and what not..thanks

mahanddeem

Air filter
Fuel filter
Oil filter
Engine oil replace
Spark plugs (NGK)
EGR tube cleaning
maybe or maybe not some fuel injector cleaner for once
clean TB and IACV (with new gaskets)
clean battery terminals
check and clean MAF sensor
set idle properly
run 93 octane fuel ONLY

I can't think of any thing else lol

LushMoney

iTrader: (4)

transmission fluid flush if necessary
sea foam
synthetic oil (can't go back to regular after you use synthetic)

mahanddeem pretty much got all the important stuff. gotta take care of your car, Maxima's are the bomb!

mahanddeem

Although I did it , some people don't advice flushing high milage auto tranny ...

wxm

iTrader: (2)

I would not do the tranny flush, have heard a couple of people having troubles after that, but a drain/refill is probably a good period maintenance. I have also replaced all the water hoses at 120K. There was no sign of broken down, but considering that I might never have to worry about them ever is probably small price to pay for less than $200, especially when I had the TB out. Just my $0.02.

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

get a VQ35. jk. check for codes and replace stuff if necessary.

BeZerK2112

iTrader: (2)

Check for codes on your ECU. Not all codes throw the CEL.

jaysonbr

Get that fuel filter changed. I forgot to change mine and my gas mileage went way down. It took hours to get it out as it was rusted on.

whiteSE

iTrader: (2)

change the gasket between the steering whell and the seat. lol jk.

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

people...why 93 octane ONLY at his mileage.?

dx_man

I had never heard about the "can't go back". What are the ramifications? I think my old Saturn did this once...

Coolsaber57

iTrader: (22)

You can go back. The only thing people say is that if you've been using conventional oil and you have high mileage that the synthetic oil will dislodge some gunk and create oil leaks.

Burning

good list, I'm behind on several of these items

Ringo1965

I am always amazed every time someone ask for a list of things to do to their car. Everyone always forgets to mention the PVC Valve! I think my last one cost me $5 at Carquest.

What is the PCV valve and what does it do?

The blowby vapors that end up in an engine's crankcase contain moisture as well as combustion byproducts and unburned fuel vapors. The crankcase is sealed to prevent the escape of these gases into the atmosphere, but the vapors must be removed to prevent oil contamination that leads to sludge formation. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system siphons these vapors from the crankcase and routes them into the intake manifold so they can be reburned in the engine.
The main component in the PCV system is the PCV valve, which is usually located in the valve cover. A hose connects the PCV valve to the intake manifold. A second hose between the air cleaner and crankcase or other valve cover (V6 or V8 applications) provides fresh air to help flush the vapors out of the crankcase. Some engines have a separate air filter for the PCV breather hose located inside the air cleaner.
The PCV valve is a spring-loaded valve with a specific orifice size designed to restrict the amount of air that's siphoned from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This is necessary because air drawn through the valve from the crankcase has a leaning effect on the fuel mixture much the same as a vacuum leak. So air flow through the valve must be controlled within certain limits. At idle, air flow is reduced because little blowby is produced. When the engine is cruising and vacuum is high, airflow through the PCV valve is at a maximum to purge the blowby vapors from the crankcase.
It's important to note that PCV valves are sized for specific engine applications. The wrong PCV valve for an application can flow too much or too little air causing driveability problems. Varnish deposits can clog the valve, so replacement for preventative maintenance is recommended (every 50,000 miles usually).

wai18

belts and valve cover gaskets if it leaks.

S1cTech

I'd thought I add a few things....

Don't forget PCV Valve, Radiator fluid/flush, and you don't HAVE to use 93. You can use a 300ZX fuel fliter if you want. Never seen any real performance numbers on this but it is bigger and lasts longer then the maxima one and will not slow down do too dirty fuel as fast as the OEM one. Also As long as you use 91 and up you good too go and the knock sensor will be happy. I personally use 93 as you guys do. And NGK laser Plats only. They are OEM ones and run about $10 bucks a plug. Expensive as **** but worth it. Do some Ground cleaning(could help). Clean Knock Sensor Ground(next to fuel rail) IMHO I don't think you need to put new Gaskets on the IACV if they are in fine condition.

For the MAF use Maf Sensor or QD electrical cleaner only. Don't use Carb cleaner or WD40. Carb cleaner leaves a residue and I don't know anyone dumb enough to use WD40, but I have seen stupid stuff like that.

Oh and last but not least. SEAFOAM!

I forgot to do mine today. =[

1/4 in old oil.(if your oil gets dirty fast and you DON'T have leaks) If you have leaks you will get tons more because sludge is your friend in most cases.)
1/4 in gas(if you want but you don't have too if u used Injector cleaner)
1/4 in brake booster Vacuum line.

Run the car for about an half and hour and your good to go


Well Along with your list and my additions, this is all you need to have a perfectly running maxima. Also check for codes and if you want. Replace O2 sensors if your gas is poopy. but they run $60 a pop and thats the cheapest so be sure your doing the right thing.

PLUMMAXSE

iTrader: (2)

Also if you when you replace your belts check on your idler pulley and replace if needed. It can be a pain if it seizes!!

marktab

On the EGR tube cleaning -- should be done certainly before 150K, mine was already clogged at 111K

(post #4 to allow me to start a thread)

ik95

Just hit 150k, i changed my fuel filter at 120k, do you guys rec. changing fuel pump as well. my mpg is kinda low....OR I should not touch it because its not broken

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

you shouldnt really need to do fuel filter again...but the upstream O2 sensors might be lazy if they're original to the car. Those should help the mileage. Maybe you slhould piggyback on the trhead currently active regarding new o2 sensors instaed of this 3 year old one

eddie982

iTrader: (10)

Was your car throwing a code for the EGR tube, not sure if it always throws
a code. And did you feel a noticeable difference after cleaning it??

whiteSE

iTrader: (2)

you wont get any gains, but youll probably feel that the car runs a little smoother.