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But this is just a quick run down with lots of pics..
All that you will really need for this is:
1. The replacement knock sensor
2. 12mm wrench
3. Flashlight
4. Patience
5. Gloves
6. Flat head screwdriver, or needle nosepliers (to remove harness clip)
Its a pain in the *** and you will most likely bleed, especially if you have large hands. It took me about 15-20 minutes to do. The hardest part is squeezing the little wrench in the crevice and trying to loosen the one bolt. Once its loose though, it shouldn't take you more then 5 minutes to put the new one in.
1. What you need.
2. Knock Sensor Location
3. Unbolt the knock sensor with your 12mm wrench. *Hardest part, I actually got a hammer and pulled it against the wrench as a lever to get the bolt loose. Be patient, once its finally loose you can unbolt it with your finger.
This may be a dumb question, but how does the knock sensor code not light the check engine light? Are there any other codes that won't illuminate the light? I believe you though because I just had the CEL come on in my 96 and pulled the codes and there were two, one for the KS and one for an O2, and I highly doubt they went out on the same day.
This may be a dumb question, but how does the knock sensor code not light the check engine light? Are there any other codes that won't illuminate the light? I believe you though because I just had the CEL come on in my 96 and pulled the codes and there were two, one for the KS and one for an O2, and I highly doubt they went out on the same day.
How does it not? It just...doesn't. The ECU doesn't light the MIL for that code, simple as that.
Replace the O2, clear the codes, then check again. The KS code seems to be thrown by emissions DTCs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
knock sensor is a ghost code, your O2 sensor could have set off the knock sensor. There are other ghost codes that are known. Another common one seem to be the evap. Don't know why the knock sensor won't light a code, but it doesn't. But if you sense a loss in power, you might want to check for a code. But other than that, it doesn't do any harm to your car.
edit***damn, pmohr can type faster than me and i thought that i can type fast....
How does it not? It just...doesn't. The ECU doesn't light the MIL for that code, simple as that.
That's strange. I understand how a faulty emissions sensor could set a KS code. But I'm more familiar with GM's and a KS fault alone will definitely give you a CEL in one of their vehicles. You learn something new everyday I guess.
Just out of curiosity, do you fellas know of any other ghost codes that won't give a CEL?
about the easy way to change the KS, wat i did was take the IM off, its not that hard...
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1996 Nissan 240SX sold
1995 BMW 740 IL totaled
1995 Nissan Maxima SE sold
2005 Acura RSX type-s crashed
1995 Nissan 240SX blown engine
1997 Nissan Maxima GXE Current
where was this tutorial last year when i needed it for my purple 96.
the current 96 already had it done along with the water pump
of course current 96 has an uncertain future right now.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Do you remember when the knock sensor went out? Did it make your car hesitate and then die? And then when you turned the car back on, did the check engine light come on?
Thats what happened to my car yesterday night.... This morning the car drives but with the check engine light on... So I unplugged the knock sensor to see if that made a difference, which it didn't.... which leads me to believe its time to replace it.
Do those "fuel injector additives" cause any damage to the knock sensor? I just put some in 5 days ago and this happens.
Do you remember when the knock sensor went out? Did it make your car hesitate and then die? And then when you turned the car back on, did the check engine light come on?
Thats what happened to my car yesterday night.... This morning the car drives but with the check engine light on... So I unplugged the knock sensor to see if that made a difference, which it didn't.... which leads me to believe its time to replace it.
Do those "fuel injector additives" cause any damage to the knock sensor? I just put some in 5 days ago and this happens.
A KS will not cause the engine to stall. Simple as that.
Have you not pulled the codes? A KS code will not light the CEL.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Do you remember when the knock sensor went out? Did it make your car hesitate and then die? And then when you turned the car back on, did the check engine light come on?
Thats what happened to my car yesterday night.... This morning the car drives but with the check engine light on... So I unplugged the knock sensor to see if that made a difference, which it didn't.... which leads me to believe its time to replace it.
Do those "fuel injector additives" cause any damage to the knock sensor? I just put some in 5 days ago and this happens.
Knock sensor is not causing your problems. And did you even bother to check your code(s)?? KS doesn't trigger a CEL btw.
Your method of diagnosing your problem is not methodical.
Fuel injector additives will do nothing to your KS. You're talking apples and oranges here bro.
EDIT: Pmohr beat me to it.
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99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
Yeah the codes that came up were 1) MAF sensor and 2) Knock sensor.
I just installed some NGK Platnium G-Power plugs 3 days ago and am wondering if thats what caused this. These NGK platnium plugs were only $3 compared to the other NGK (stock plugs) for $11..... What the hell are the G-Power plugs? Im going to put the factory plugs back in and see if anything changes... if it does, make a sticky to AVOID the NGK G-Power Platniums ( read in another thread that the G-power plugs did the same thing to someone elses maxima)
Yeah the codes that came up were 1) MAF sensor and 2) Knock sensor.
I just installed some NGK Platnium G-Power plugs 3 days ago and am wondering if thats what caused this. These NGK platnium plugs were only $3 compared to the other NGK (stock plugs) for $11..... What the hell are the G-Power plugs? Im going to put the factory plugs back in and see if anything changes... if it does, make a sticky to AVOID the NGK G-Power Platniums ( read in another thread that the G-power plugs did the same thing to someone elses maxima)
It's not the spark plugs either....it's clearly your MAF. Chances are, the KS is piggybacking the MAF code, thus throwing a false KS code. Fix the MAF problem, and I bet both codes will go away.
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99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
That's the same way I did, 12mm wrench and a screwdriver to pry with. Tons easier than a ratchet, extensions, and swivels (IMO).
I agree... I wasted more time with the extentions and u-joints than just cramming a 12mm wrench in the blackhole and using a screwdriver on the open end for leverage...
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"Take these words home and think it through, or the next rhyme I write might be about you.."
...why would you want to? Move it anywhere but where it was from the factory, and you're likely going to end up with a lot less sensitivity to knock. Might as well just throw a resistor in the harness, IMO.
Did you search? A few people have relocated it, and there have been several threads on it.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
...why would you want to? Move it anywhere but where it was from the factory, and you're likely going to end up with a lot less sensitivity to knock. Might as well just throw a resistor in the harness, IMO.
pmohr, funny you mention the resistor thing, I was going to do that exact thing on my daughters 97 Altima until I can get a new KS. Have you seen this done and do you remember the value used? I seem to remember that it's somewhere in the 600K region.