Brandon8965

iTrader: (9)

just did mine today.. i used about a foot of extensions and a breaker bar... and still got bloody hands lol.. but no more stupid invisible code

zeitgeist

I've got a '99 that was hesitating on acceleration.

After a week or so, the CEL lit up and was traced to the popular "random cylinder misfire".

I took it to my mechanic and , since his shop is rather small, he told me his equipment can only diagnose so far. In short, he doesn't see any problem with the plugs or coils, but he can't dig a whole lot deeper.

He suggested the knock sensor, but said he didn't want to do it without knowing for certain it was at fault, given the costs of part and labor.

I don't have the time to chase down electrical issues, but I'll replace the KS, if that's what is wrong.

His only suggestion was going to the dealer, in order to get a more robust diagnosis. Can other shops provide this type of information? I'm looking at $100+ just for the dealer to hook it up.

From what I've read here, the KS doesn't throw its own error, but may "piggyback" on something else. Am I understanding that correctly?

I'm leaning towards buying one off eBay and just doing it to see if it clears up the issue.

If it still squawks, I'm only out $50 and an hour of my time.

Anyone have any thoughts on that?

Also, I've been very bad in regards to the spark plugs. I've had the car since new and it only has 45K miles on it. My mechanic just looked at the plugs yesterday and said they look excellent. Should I replace 'em anyway?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

BC

Shift_Nismo

iTrader: (9)

The KS can piggyback on something else, but if the KS is bad, you will still have a ghost code (a code without the actual check engine light coming on) for the KS. If your plugs are still fine, then there is no reason to replace them yet. The OEM NGK Platinums are good for like 60k miles I think. As far as the code reading, his reader should be able to read every code, it may not be able to tell you what the Make specific codes mean, but it should at least be able to tell you the code like PXXXX. Did he check your coil packs?

dcambre

Nice job
I just replaced my knock sensor when I replaced the valve cover gaskets but a great idea anyway.

David

cspence4364

Just replaced the knock sensor today. I actually used a socket wrench (all I had for that moment), and it was definitely difficult. However, one of the things that was needed for this excursion was "patience", and I kept at it for about 50-60 mins until the bolt came loose. My hand is swollen, scratched, and bloody, but I feel accomplished.

I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to reset the computer (probably heading to Autozone to get the codes cleared tomorrow just to make sure). The car appeared to have more power in the lower gears and better smoothness overall. Thanks for the easy tutorial, man. It makes me feel like I actually know what I'm doing.

-Colin

maximus_2

Just did mine like a week ago & I have never owned a Nissan & have never done a KS job before, Its definantly do-able. The most important tool that day was patience! I only used a 12mm wrench, I tried other tools & creations but the regular wrench was the winner that time.

zeitgeist

A * huge * "thank you" to the forum. The directions are perfect.

I ordered a KS off eBay a couple of days ago and thought I'd fiddle around today to see if I would have any problem getting off the old one.

In less than 10 minutes, I had the daggone thing loose and off! Beautiful!

Of course, now, I'd rather not stick the old one back on.

This is probably a stupid question, but can I drive for a day or two without one?

Thanks!

BC

Shift_Nismo

iTrader: (9)

Yes, your performance will be reduced as will your gas mileage, but nothing more than that will happen.

last1lost

It looks like the ks is located on the lim so if I swap it for an 00vi lim when doing my swap will I run in to problems with swaping or relocating the ks?

ef9

iTrader: (8)

I bought one knock sensor off of ebay. It crapped out after 1 month of being installed. I bought another off of ebay, it was so crappy, it didn't measure the right resistance out of the package!

98MaximaDriver

iTrader: (8)

^^ dam thats unlucky.. I got one off ebay and it worked fine for 3 years and then i sold that max.. Im sure it still works!

I changed the harness too tho..

WhiteMaxima9600

who did u buy yours from? I just installed a $14 one off ebay lol. Wow what a diff a ks makes Only took me 30min. to install with a swivel, ratchet and a couple of extensions

thereef

my mom has a '97 maxima that just failed emissions. I took it into auto-zone for her and these are the codes they pulled:

P0325- "knock sensor condition; knock sensor defective/low fuel pressure"

P0500- "Vehicle Speed sensor circuit fault"

P0600- "communication error"

So I am a *total* novice at this stuff (would need to look in the manual to learn how to change the oil kinda novice), and i looked through this thread.. and it seems like what you're saying is that the knock sensor has no code, it is a 'ghost code'. so then what exactly is the P0325? also, do all of you usually change out the harness, when you change the knock sensor, or just change the sensor? I dont have a meter to test the harness.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Knock sensor does have code, at least on mine. You don't need to replace the harness unless your harness is really in bad shape. You should be able to do it yourself. IMO it is a job needs more for the right tool than skills - a long flex head 1/4 ratchet, or a flex head ratcheting wrench would be a great help. Pmohr even has a video for "howto" .

Silfrgluggr

^this
And excellent tutorial SPER!

thereef

so everyone here bought the $14 ebay knock sensor and got it to work? how come the ones sold at autozone and other places are substantially more expensive?

edit: nvm, I ended up buying the OEM one from another ebay seller.

98MaximaDriver

iTrader: (8)

I remember the first time i got the knock sensor code and the manager of some garage told me 1200$ to fix it!! He did it with a straight face too..

Then i came to the org, read some threads and saw the flick by phmor and i was like son of a *****!! I was almost had!!


Ebay sensor .. Ratchet +extension +extension +swivel FTW!!

Maxxpeed

The KS code (P0325) can be retreived from the ECM with an OBDII handset. As stated in this thread numerous time, the SES light will not illuminate if this is the only code present in memory.

kb2umj

I'm a Noob with a 4th Gen unbadged max. I'm not sure what model it actually is. It's been the family car since buying it new. The car was made late in 98 but was purchased as a '99. As of now I have a P0400 and a P0325 (I think) codes. The KS has been bad for a while, the EGR code just appeared two weeks ago right before it needed NJ inspection! I've done my research on the EGR tube cleanout and the replacement of the KS. My problem is that I have a part blocking access to the "tunnel" so I cant get to the KS. If it were an easy remove it would have been done. The damn thing has a linkage that looks to be a real PITA so I'm not touching it till I get a clue. The attached pics should tell the tale.
Thanks, Michael

Maxnub

great tut helped me replace my 170k old KS

NHMAX603

iTrader: (1)

was just looking into changing mine props for the write up

Slugga04

I have this same problem. Did you ever find a way to remove this part and replace the knock sensor? Or can you replace it without removing the part?

chamyang18

I'm having a hard time getting to the knock sensor. There is something blocking my way. Any idea what that is? Based on the picture you have an opening directly to it.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

You either way to remove this part (swirl valve) and associated linkage or remove the entire Intake Manifold. There is no other way. I'm not going to go into great detail, but I've removed the swirl valve/linkage etc and it's not fun or easy....took many hours. If I had to do it again, I'd just remove the Intake Manifold like the Factory Service Manual specifies.
Yes, it a swirl valve, only found on CA spec 99's and up. Any picture you see where it looks like it's a piece of cake to get to, is because those Maximas are 95-98 non-CA spec. (ie no swirl valve/linkage etc etc).

chamyang18

How can I get around that?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Huh? I already explained your options...

chamyang18

I just read it again and you did give me my option. Sorry. I'm new fixing cars. My brother always did the work if I need it. But I was told that I would appreciate it more if I was to do it myself. So I'm working on it.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Hey Mr. Wizard! Think there'd be something you could help me with? I just replaced all my spark plugs since it was time to do so, and mainly cause my engine knocks a bit during idle. But.... That didn't do squat so.... Now I'm thinking I might have a ghost code for the KS... Which frankly is still only 6 months old... But the harness is loose cause my pop lost the clip wire on it and now I know that I will have to somehow put the clip on.


However, I will also need to redo my valve covers since they're leaking into the rear speak plug ports.... yikes, I know. Is there anything else that could cause a slight engine knocking/misfire symptoms?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

For starters, if your spark plug seals are shot and oil is making its way to the spark plugs, that would definitely cause misfire symptoms... Let's take this to the West Coast Forum so we don't ***** up this thread.

DBear

Evidently this thread has a Bump Me sign on its back, so I don't feel too bad about this. I've got a 96 CA spec, and after I figured out how to take off the sensor that blocks the tunnel (MAP something? I forget), I can do a KS replacement pretty easily. I've been thinking about getting a newer Max, maybe 00 or so, and now I see this about the swirl valve. If I have to take off the IM to replace the KS, that may make a big difference. What years have this swirl valve problem? Anyone know if it extends to the 5th gens?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

If you mean a 00 or 01 5th gen with the 3.0 engine, then yes the swirl valve is there. Can't say on the 3.5 5th gens...

aceshigh

My '95 had the same connector in the way. I took the 10mm nut completely off, popped it out and used a zip tie to hold that sob out of my way. That little sucker kept popping out of wherever I would stuff it and ruin any progress I made. Made the job much, much easier.

A couple of other tips I realized while replacing the KS in my '95 today:

1) If you are a righty, your left hand is slightly smaller (usually). After several unsuccessful and bloody attempts trying with my right hand, I switched to the left and was in and out in 20 minutes.

2) Tired of wrenches and bolts dropping into the abyss of your engine compartment?? Stuff some cloth or paper towels into the crevices and holes around the area. I did this after losing my wrench about 5 times. Thank god I had a telescoping magnet, but after I plugged up the holes, there wasn't anywhere for things to get lost anymore.


This thread saved me hundreds. KS from AutoZone: $124.00 - KS from E-bay: $20:00. Labor quote from the shop: $250 - $300. I diy'd it in under 2 hrs. $0.00.

rvskull34

Was a pain in the butt when I did it

snowballblast

Def was a PITA even with my small hands but I got it down. Love the .Org and it is very helpful in my mission.

Xfactor22

iTrader: (13)

Just did mine, I'm about to have this up as well as Phor's video just so it goes very smooth without problems. Good writeup man.

Maxieggy

Does anyone know of a good ks seller of ebay ?

2brosgixxer

Got mine here. Quick ship and right part.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-KA24D...item4aa74e27ba

whitemaximaSE

ok got a question my car is misfiring some of the time sometimes it runs just fine i have a code for o2 sensor loop control idk what that is and knock sensor would the knock sensor make it misfire?

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

Good luck bro.

Maxieggy

I will be doing my knock sensor tomorrow morning wish me luck