Easy Knock Sensor Installation! Picture Tutorial
12-14-2009, 04:20 PM
#121
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 323
Well, it's time for me to replace my KS AND an O2 sensor. Least that's what the code reader says. Glad to find this thread with the info and the pictures. Took the "bull by the horns" and went str8t to eBay. Ordered a ks for about $22 from a vendor and immediately got back a reply that my order was placed. It's free shipping from Wisconsin I believe so it will probably take a bit to get here. After I get it and install it I'll come back with my .02
As to the O2 sensor. I checked with Courtesy Nissan in TX and they want $129. Geeeeesh. Again, looking on eBay. Much more reasonable. Anybody suggest one? I'm thinking the Denso O2 sensor. Cheers
As to the O2 sensor. I checked with Courtesy Nissan in TX and they want $129. Geeeeesh. Again, looking on eBay. Much more reasonable. Anybody suggest one? I'm thinking the Denso O2 sensor. Cheers
12-21-2009, 04:32 PM
#123
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 7
12-24-2009, 12:36 AM
#124
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 16
i have to replace my KS, one of the symptom because the engine hard to accelerate, have to push deep gas pedal to make it move (about 1 inch pedal movement). but before that i try to install 550K ohm resistor as on other thread. It succeed temporarily. After turn off and on engine again, it hard to accelerate again. I try to ohmed the harness socket on the front engine side end (not at the KS end) with the KS unplugged, it come to surprising 550K ohm...so it means i dont need to plug the KS...it already 550K ohm? the results is the engine back to its live...easy to accelerate...only need to push 1/2 inch pedal movement...so how wierd this can be?
12-24-2009, 06:24 AM
#125
i have to replace my KS, one of the symptom because the engine hard to accelerate, have to push deep gas pedal to make it move (about 1 inch pedal movement). but before that i try to install 550K ohm resistor as on other thread. It succeed temporarily. After turn off and on engine again, it hard to accelerate again. I try to ohmed the harness socket on the front engine side end (not at the KS end) with the KS unplugged, it come to surprising 550K ohm...so it means i dont need to plug the KS...it already 550K ohm? the results is the engine back to its live...easy to accelerate...only need to push 1/2 inch pedal movement...so how wierd this can be?
12-26-2009, 06:36 PM
#126
Just finished replacing my knock sensor on my 98 maxima. I bought on ebay for $48 from tennesseeautosales. Its oem so I had piece of mind knowing it was stock. There are two things that i definetly needed to do the job. One was a swivel socket wrench and two was PATIENCE. I have very large hands so it was impossible for me to fit my hands into that small space. And I was not about two start taking apart other components. The only thing i did disconnect was the one green sensor so id have a little more work space but not much more. Taking off the screw was not bad but it would be impossible if I didnt have the swivel wrench and extensions. The most difficult part of the job was putting the sensor back into place. Since the sensor has a hole in the center for mounting, I used a hanger through that hole to reach the sensor into place. I bent the hanger at an angle that would allow me to put the end of the hanger into the engine block hole for mounting. Then the next challenge was to put the screw into the hole of the sensor and screw it into the enging block without the screw falling out of socket and displacing the sensor from position. What i did to keep the screw on socket? I put a plastic sheet on the head of screw so it fit snug into the socket(cut excess plastic so i can see). It worked great! It didnt fall out and allowed me to reach and put the screw into place. After taking breather to regain my patience and focus, i started to slowly turn the wrench until it FINALLY grab to the engine block. The job took me a total of about 2-2.5 hours. Thanks to all you guys my fellow maxima enthusiast I was able to complete the job. Great info guys
01-02-2010, 02:38 PM
#127
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 323
Just finished replacing my knock sensor on my 98 maxima. I bought on ebay for $48 from tennesseeautosales. Its oem so I had piece of mind knowing it was stock. There are two things that i definetly needed to do the job. One was a swivel socket wrench and two was PATIENCE. I have very large hands so it was impossible for me to fit my hands into that small space. And I was not about two start taking apart other components. The only thing i did disconnect was the one green sensor so id have a little more work space but not much more. Taking off the screw was not bad but it would be impossible if I didnt have the swivel wrench and extensions. The most difficult part of the job was putting the sensor back into place. Since the sensor has a hole in the center for mounting, I used a hanger through that hole to reach the sensor into place. I bent the hanger at an angle that would allow me to put the end of the hanger into the engine block hole for mounting. Then the next challenge was to put the screw into the hole of the sensor and screw it into the enging block without the screw falling out of socket and displacing the sensor from position. What i did to keep the screw on socket? I put a plastic sheet on the head of screw so it fit snug into the socket(cut excess plastic so i can see). It worked great! It didnt fall out and allowed me to reach and put the screw into place. After taking breather to regain my patience and focus, i started to slowly turn the wrench until it FINALLY grab to the engine block. The job took me a total of about 2-2.5 hours. Thanks to all you guys my fellow maxima enthusiast I was able to complete the job. Great info guys
) Noted that the air filter was gross. After taking care of that I got out my ratchet and extension and universal. Well, the bolt was a bit tight. "Barked" my hand on some sharp piece of engine and then it gave. Thought I might have rounded off the bolt but it was ok. The trouble started when my cheap a** universal broke. Course it broke while way in there. So, I had the ks out and still connect to the wiring harness but the socket and universal were still there. Time for son #2. My 13 yr old has small hands and was able to reach in their and grab the socket and universal. But the pin on the universal was still in there. Time for son #1 (zagato27 jr) to help out. He was able to reach in their and get the pin out. He was also able to get the new ks (bought off eBay for a shopping $22) back in place and snugged down. Then it was off to Advance Auto to pick up a new air filter, oil filter (both Purolator Pure One's) and a new universal. Back home, tightened the ks up to German specs....gut & tight, and everything was fine. Lastly, I hooked up myb OBDII scanner and am now down to the check engine soon light with only a code P0136...downstream O2 sensor. That's my next project, well change oil will be first.
01-03-2010, 08:05 PM
#128
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Pineville (burb of Charlotte), NC
Posts: 574
The folks who are buying the sub $20 KS, how does it work out? Is the part good quality or does it need replacing again and again? It seems the OEM part is $40.50 + $5 in shipping v/s the knock off one which is $15.95 + $4.95
Is it worth it to save the money or should we just get the OEM one?
Is it worth it to save the money or should we just get the OEM one?
01-23-2010, 03:29 PM
#130
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 13
CEL 3 CODES
Last weekend my CEL came on after I got gas. So, I went to Advance Auto and have them check my codes. they were as followed:
P0440 - EVAP small leak/no flow condition
Probable causes-1) Defective or loose fuel cap
2) EVAP canister or hose cracked/not connected
3) Purge or vent solenoid defective
4) Vacuum leak at engine
P1448 - EVAP canister vent control valve (open)
Probable causes-1) Failed canister vent solenoid
2) Failed EVAP pressure sensor
P0325 - Knock sensor condition
Probable causes-1) Knock sensor defective
2) Check connector and wiring to sensor
3) Engine mechanical condition
I figured that the P0440 code was from a loose gas cap. since, the CEL came on after I got gas. (Thanks a lot gas station attendant!) I just ordered a new KS from eBay but, I'm not sure what to do about the P1448 code. Will this code go away once I change the KS? If the EVAP is a separate issue, how do I change or fix the EVAP?
02-12-2010, 11:09 AM
#132
Thanks for the information
I have to do my O2 and KS this week so this information is helpful. Are there any vids of a Cal spec KS? I will ise the flex socket method and see how that turns out.
02-12-2010, 11:13 AM
#133
Sorry to break it to you, but you're screwed being you have a Cal spec Max. You better have really really really small hands/wrists/arms or else the upper intake manifold, fuel rail etc are coming off. Good luck.
02-12-2010, 01:58 PM
#134
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 13
Just did mine yesterday. I was able to get the old one off with the techniques above, but there was no way to get my hand in to start screwing the bolt back in. I tried jamming my hand in there, but a wrist laceration would have cost me more at the emergency room than I stood to save on this one.
Solution, I loosened the connector block that sits right in front of the access area. There is a 10mm nut on the underside of the connector block. I loosened it until I could tilt the connector about 1/2 inch. Then I could cram my hand in fairly easily and start the bolt. I will post pictures.
GR
Solution, I loosened the connector block that sits right in front of the access area. There is a 10mm nut on the underside of the connector block. I loosened it until I could tilt the connector about 1/2 inch. Then I could cram my hand in fairly easily and start the bolt. I will post pictures.
GR
02-23-2010, 04:26 AM
#136
Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 168
Your profile says that you have a 95 cali spec.
Changing the knock sensor on a 95 cali spec is as easy/hard as changing a knock sensor on any other 4th gen max. From what I understand, only the 99 cali spec has the extra few skin graters/zesters in the vicinity.
Last edited by nhaven; 02-23-2010 at 11:24 AM.
03-22-2010, 11:04 AM
#137
To everyone still struggling, frustrated, feel like your hands are too big, DO NOT GIVE UP. The little green connector thing with the 10 mm underneath it holding it in place? Remove it like the guy above said (10mm gearwrench is helpful). Now, use a box end 12 mm (non ratcheting), preferably one where the box end half of the combo wrench is angled. Slide the wrench in, you may have to go underneath all the hoses and stuff where you unbolted the 10 mm. Get the wrench to seat with it angled just toward the front of the engine bay (your left). Mine cracked on the first try. Then I slid in the gearwrench ratcheting 12 mm box end (the box end half on this one is flat, not angled, not as good as a leverage advantage) and then ratchet it off. By the time you have cracked the KS bolt, it might be too loose for the ratchet to work and it might be easier to undo by hand (I don't know if easier is the right word lol).
But anyways, I know the 4th gen maxima is one of the most frustrating vehicles to work on. All the senior members that claim **** with our cars is easy? THEYRE WRONG, IM CALLING THEM OUT. Ive never worked on any other car where every freaking thing you try to remove is just 2 inches out of reach. So don't get discouraged, because its NOT easy, this car is one of the biggest headaches I've ever owned, its also the most fun car I've ever owned at the same time. I have rather big hands, but at the same time my fingers are VERY long which helped my case.
As for the swivel technique, I bet that works well too. Unfortunately I only have sockets, extensions and u-joints, no swivel wrench.
But anyways, I know the 4th gen maxima is one of the most frustrating vehicles to work on. All the senior members that claim **** with our cars is easy? THEYRE WRONG, IM CALLING THEM OUT. Ive never worked on any other car where every freaking thing you try to remove is just 2 inches out of reach. So don't get discouraged, because its NOT easy, this car is one of the biggest headaches I've ever owned, its also the most fun car I've ever owned at the same time. I have rather big hands, but at the same time my fingers are VERY long which helped my case.
As for the swivel technique, I bet that works well too. Unfortunately I only have sockets, extensions and u-joints, no swivel wrench.
04-10-2010, 11:00 AM
#138
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: South Austin
Posts: 12
Ordered the OEM senser on ebay for $52. Took a little thinking, but was able to use the 12mm box wrench and a hammer handle to break the bolt loose(30 minutes) then my 11 yr old son reached in and unscrewed it. I replaced, he reinstalled then I tightened(30 min total). I didn't remove or bend anything. Took it out for a spin and the tq is back... awesome.
I can't imagine being a shade tree mechanic in the recent past, Haynes, Chilton... shoot me in the face, they are just this side of useless. I've used this site to trouble shoot and repair, CV axles, water pump, injector, starter, tensioner assembly ect. ect. ect.
Thanks for the write up and pics.
I can't imagine being a shade tree mechanic in the recent past, Haynes, Chilton... shoot me in the face, they are just this side of useless. I've used this site to trouble shoot and repair, CV axles, water pump, injector, starter, tensioner assembly ect. ect. ect.
Thanks for the write up and pics.
04-12-2010, 09:14 AM
#140
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 472
When I changed mine, I hand screwed it first then used the socket to give it a slight turn just to make it snug. If you turn it too hard you can crack the sensor.
04-13-2010, 01:34 AM
#142
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Okay guys, I really need some advice.
I have a '99 cali spec I30. Bone stock with 167,xxx mi.
My knock sensor is bad, but the thing is, it's pretty much impossible to get to on my car because there is this "swirl valve actuator" or some BS in the way.
The shop wants $150+ for the labor of taking off the upper intake manifold (F**K THAT).
I am not very keen on using the resistor bypass because this car is old, and what if somehow regular gas was put in the tank? That would be terrible.
This leads me to relocating the knock sensor. Where would I put it? There are some nice places on the IM, but I'm worried the fuel injectors will make it think there's knock. I've heard of using the firewall, but it won't hear any knock because the motor is isolated.
Any suggestions? Really need help because my 0-60 mph time is 9.0 seconds, and 0-100 is like 30 seconds. It's horrible, my car has no ***** past 2nd gear. I know the slush box isn't the fastest thing in the world, but it's *MY* slushbox, and I love it anyway. Please help.
I have a '99 cali spec I30. Bone stock with 167,xxx mi.
My knock sensor is bad, but the thing is, it's pretty much impossible to get to on my car because there is this "swirl valve actuator" or some BS in the way.
The shop wants $150+ for the labor of taking off the upper intake manifold (F**K THAT).
I am not very keen on using the resistor bypass because this car is old, and what if somehow regular gas was put in the tank? That would be terrible.
This leads me to relocating the knock sensor. Where would I put it? There are some nice places on the IM, but I'm worried the fuel injectors will make it think there's knock. I've heard of using the firewall, but it won't hear any knock because the motor is isolated.
Any suggestions? Really need help because my 0-60 mph time is 9.0 seconds, and 0-100 is like 30 seconds. It's horrible, my car has no ***** past 2nd gear. I know the slush box isn't the fastest thing in the world, but it's *MY* slushbox, and I love it anyway. Please help.
04-13-2010, 10:41 AM
#143
Okay guys, I really need some advice.
I have a '99 cali spec I30. Bone stock with 167,xxx mi.
My knock sensor is bad, but the thing is, it's pretty much impossible to get to on my car because there is this "swirl valve actuator" or some BS in the way.
The shop wants $150+ for the labor of taking off the upper intake manifold (F**K THAT).
I am not very keen on using the resistor bypass because this car is old, and what if somehow regular gas was put in the tank? That would be terrible.
This leads me to relocating the knock sensor. Where would I put it? There are some nice places on the IM, but I'm worried the fuel injectors will make it think there's knock. I've heard of using the firewall, but it won't hear any knock because the motor is isolated.
Any suggestions? Really need help because my 0-60 mph time is 9.0 seconds, and 0-100 is like 30 seconds. It's horrible, my car has no ***** past 2nd gear. I know the slush box isn't the fastest thing in the world, but it's *MY* slushbox, and I love it anyway. Please help.
I have a '99 cali spec I30. Bone stock with 167,xxx mi.
My knock sensor is bad, but the thing is, it's pretty much impossible to get to on my car because there is this "swirl valve actuator" or some BS in the way.
The shop wants $150+ for the labor of taking off the upper intake manifold (F**K THAT).
I am not very keen on using the resistor bypass because this car is old, and what if somehow regular gas was put in the tank? That would be terrible.
This leads me to relocating the knock sensor. Where would I put it? There are some nice places on the IM, but I'm worried the fuel injectors will make it think there's knock. I've heard of using the firewall, but it won't hear any knock because the motor is isolated.
Any suggestions? Really need help because my 0-60 mph time is 9.0 seconds, and 0-100 is like 30 seconds. It's horrible, my car has no ***** past 2nd gear. I know the slush box isn't the fastest thing in the world, but it's *MY* slushbox, and I love it anyway. Please help.
04-14-2010, 04:49 AM
#144
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
150 is a dope price for KS labor. If you do the replacement per the FSM, then its gonna take a mechanic least 2 hrs to do it, and thatsa generous time estimate.
My only concern is the price may be a lil too low. Are u sure these guys are competent? If they screw up the bolt patterns on the UIM they run the risk of ruining the intake lips. Be careful man
My only concern is the price may be a lil too low. Are u sure these guys are competent? If they screw up the bolt patterns on the UIM they run the risk of ruining the intake lips. Be careful man
what
05-22-2010, 03:23 PM
#151
Hopefully, this will be my first DIY job! I ordered a knock sensor, 12mm comb. wrench to do this.. hopefully i can reach it with my skinny arms and long fingers. Otherwise, i'll have to buy a locking extension bar set for my socket wrench.
05-29-2010, 04:36 PM
#152
Knock Sensor 1, Me 0 ....Knock sensor takes the first round. I took off the green connector, then tried to unscrew the ks with a comb. wrench, then tried with a socket wrench but i just couldnt get it to reach the screw, so frustrating!! and the place is so damn narrow...
I'm looking to buy a wobble angle extension bar set, do you think it would be more easier with it??? I'm looking to buy this set:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-9-Piece-..._bxgy_hi_img_c
I'm looking to buy a wobble angle extension bar set, do you think it would be more easier with it??? I'm looking to buy this set:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-9-Piece-..._bxgy_hi_img_c
06-30-2010, 08:00 AM
#153
Hey guys I just got a knock sensor from Ebay for $17 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OE-Ni...Q5fAccessories
I went to autozone to get something else for the car and just out of curiousity I asked how much one cost he said like $150 I laughed and said Ill get one of Ebay for 17 bucks thankyou very much. LOL.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OE-Ni...Q5fAccessories
I went to autozone to get something else for the car and just out of curiousity I asked how much one cost he said like $150 I laughed and said Ill get one of Ebay for 17 bucks thankyou very much. LOL.
07-05-2010, 02:21 PM
#155
Ive got the extensions and u-joint socket, and I am able to get the u-joint onto the ks bolt, but when I turn the ratchet, it doesn't turn horizontally, it tries to turn vertically until it pops off of the bolt. I watch pmohr's video, and I dont understand why his worked so flawlessly, but when I do it, it keeps turning vertically instead of horizontally unscrewing. Any ideas?
07-05-2010, 03:31 PM
#156
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 472
Ive got the extensions and u-joint socket, and I am able to get the u-joint onto the ks bolt, but when I turn the ratchet, it doesn't turn horizontally, it tries to turn vertically until it pops off of the bolt. I watch pmohr's video, and I dont understand why his worked so flawlessly, but when I do it, it keeps turning vertically instead of horizontally unscrewing. Any ideas?
07-05-2010, 04:27 PM
#157
This is what happens when I turn the ratchet
http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=VID00017.mp4
Last edited by Shift_Nismo; 07-05-2010 at 04:31 PM.
07-08-2010, 07:01 AM
#158
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
i spent an hour on sunday in the heat with a regular ol' wrench and a small socket wrench trying to get this thing done. after gnarling up my hand nicely, i still failed at breaking the bastard loose. went to sears last night, bought a 14" extension and a flexible socket. spent an hour this morning trying, still no luck. looked up the video for doing and took me another ten, maybe fifteen minutes to break the bolt loose, pop the the sensor out, drop the lil metal retention clip in the engine bay, knock it down to two other spots by accident, and then finally get that ish back in there. thanks for all the guides, it's much appreciated.
07-08-2010, 08:07 AM
#160
i spent an hour on sunday in the heat with a regular ol' wrench and a small socket wrench trying to get this thing done. after gnarling up my hand nicely, i still failed at breaking the bastard loose. went to sears last night, bought a 14" extension and a flexible socket. spent an hour this morning trying, still no luck. looked up the video for doing and took me another ten, maybe fifteen minutes to break the bolt loose, pop the the sensor out, drop the lil metal retention clip in the engine bay, knock it down to two other spots by accident, and then finally get that ish back in there. thanks for all the guides, it's much appreciated.
EDIT: OMG!!!! I did what you did, and gave it one more try. I put the socket on there, and pushed as hard as I could, and I damn near fell lol. I put the socket back on, and it felt loose. So I jiggle the harness, and it shakes a little. So I put my hand in there (my hands are skinny, so no cuts for me lol) and I just unscrewed it lol! I replaced it, and drove to advanced auto parts. The code was still there, along with my 02 sensor, and the p1400 egr solenoid code. I forgot to plug the egr solenoid back in after unplugging it to reach down there. So I had the codes erased. I know the 02 sensor code will come back up, Im having that replaced later this month. Will the 02 sensor code trigger the ks code? If not I may need to replace the subharness too FML....but at least I was able to change the knock sensor lol
Last edited by Shift_Nismo; 07-08-2010 at 10:36 AM.