Car leans out and almost dies at angle
04-28-2009, 02:15 PM
#1
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Car leans out and almost dies at angle
When I'm sitting on a hill or slight angle, Like a driveway. My AFR's will be settle around 14.7. But then randomly rich out hard core, and then lean out all the way to 18.0:1. The car will slowly dip in RPM's, If I give it gas the af'r bounce rich then bounce back to lean again. I have to hold it for a second then it will settle back into the 14.7 range, and then if I just sit and idle for a second it will lean back out and dip in RPM's.
I have no EGR/Evap/ or IACV. My car never use to do this. Just randomly started after header instal and tranny swap.
only codes I'm throwing are for the EGR/evap and IACV. and for the p0141 heater circuit cat converter 02, even though I have it simmed.
I had all my coils out while doing my swap so I know they were all in good condition. My plugs were changed not to long ago back when i did my 00vi swap, and they were in perfect looking condition.
I found a minor vac leak before the map/baro today and fixed it. But otherwise I have no idea what it could be.
My TC on the tranny is also sticking or getting locked into lower gears, could it be this? When I'm at idle?
The engine runs perfect, the car runs perfect when I'm driving it. but I have no idea why my afr's are bouncing like they are.
I have no EGR/Evap/ or IACV. My car never use to do this. Just randomly started after header instal and tranny swap.
only codes I'm throwing are for the EGR/evap and IACV. and for the p0141 heater circuit cat converter 02, even though I have it simmed.
I had all my coils out while doing my swap so I know they were all in good condition. My plugs were changed not to long ago back when i did my 00vi swap, and they were in perfect looking condition.
I found a minor vac leak before the map/baro today and fixed it. But otherwise I have no idea what it could be.
My TC on the tranny is also sticking or getting locked into lower gears, could it be this? When I'm at idle?
The engine runs perfect, the car runs perfect when I'm driving it. but I have no idea why my afr's are bouncing like they are.
05-01-2009, 12:43 PM
#5
Still, that doesn't make too much sense. Have you changed your fuel filter?
Also you mentioned a torque converter that is "sticking?" Is it possible the TC is grabbing first, causing the RPM's to suddenly dip below normal idle speed, and it is this sudden change in RPM that the computer cannot keep up which/tries to correct which is what is causing these A/F ratio fluctuations?
05-01-2009, 01:10 PM
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I would say yes, but the fact that it only does it when the car is at an angle makes me think there is some sort of loose blockage in your fuel system that somehow "flows" its way into a position to block fuel flow when the car is at an angle.
Still, that doesn't make too much sense. Have you changed your fuel filter?
Also you mentioned a torque converter that is "sticking?" Is it possible the TC is grabbing first, causing the RPM's to suddenly dip below normal idle speed, and it is this sudden change in RPM that the computer cannot keep up which/tries to correct which is what is causing these A/F ratio fluctuations?
Still, that doesn't make too much sense. Have you changed your fuel filter?
Also you mentioned a torque converter that is "sticking?" Is it possible the TC is grabbing first, causing the RPM's to suddenly dip below normal idle speed, and it is this sudden change in RPM that the computer cannot keep up which/tries to correct which is what is causing these A/F ratio fluctuations?
Hmm. Good response. I figured the guy that welded in my piece and put my 02 sensors knew what he was doing. He is a pretty knowledgeable guy when it comes to cars. But the thing is it's only done it recently, after i got this piece welded in.
My fuel system has never acted up. Just recently did a trans swap, but again it didn't do this at first. until recently. Last night it acted up really bad. The RPM's drop about 200-300 down, and the car will sound like it's cammed like a mother ****er. I have a feeling my cat is clogged pretty bad. but as far as why that would cause my afr's to lean out I couldn't say.
I just recently changed the oil, a long with the filter so yes. Within the last 2-3 weeks actually. The car is running better than it has in almost a year. It's running damn near perfect. This is the only thing that it's doing. and I still don't know why.
As far as the TC grabbing and altering the AFR's, Perhaps? But then why when I give it gas it stays leaned out. I have to put load on it about 2000rpm in drive before it will come back to normal. last night it was doing it while I was on a flat service which was odd. I've only noticed it when on a hill or something similar. Or in the rain. Going through a car wash it does it almost instantly when the water hits the underbody.
Last edited by ZaxWhite97Max; 05-01-2009 at 01:12 PM.
05-01-2009, 01:53 PM
#7
I meant the fuel filter. If you have a really old clogged fuel filter or if part of the filter has started to disintegrate inside, it could possibly explain some of the symptoms. Maybe the fuel pressure regulator might even have something to do with it as well?
05-01-2009, 02:06 PM
#8
I would say, remove the cat and see if it does it(run open Y just for testing purposes) and change your fuel filter.
Also, I am leaning towards a possible bad/going fuel pump or an open FPR. If there isnt enough pressure in the lines, then on a hill, it will be even less.
Also, I am leaning towards a possible bad/going fuel pump or an open FPR. If there isnt enough pressure in the lines, then on a hill, it will be even less.
05-01-2009, 03:21 PM
#9
Nothing to do with your torque converter. TC's don't 'stick', the stator in them can, but the TC itself can't, and it wouldn't drop your RPMS. If the stator was sticking/seized you'd notice a lack of acceleration/torque at low speeds.
It sounded like a fuel issue to me as well, but now that you've mentioned that it does it in the car wash when the underside gets wet?
Did it do this once, or will it act up any time you put pressurized water to the underside?
The cat is possible, easy way to check is to get the car good and hot on the highway then get off the highway and stop on a hill as fast as you can.
If it acts up immediately, I doubt the cat is the culprit.
Wouldn't mind having some more info on the 02 simulation you have set up and why.... boosted?
It sounded like a fuel issue to me as well, but now that you've mentioned that it does it in the car wash when the underside gets wet?
Did it do this once, or will it act up any time you put pressurized water to the underside?
The cat is possible, easy way to check is to get the car good and hot on the highway then get off the highway and stop on a hill as fast as you can.
If it acts up immediately, I doubt the cat is the culprit.
Wouldn't mind having some more info on the 02 simulation you have set up and why.... boosted?
05-01-2009, 03:22 PM
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I would say, remove the cat and see if it does it(run open Y just for testing purposes) and change your fuel filter.
Also, I am leaning towards a possible bad/going fuel pump or an open FPR. If there isnt enough pressure in the lines, then on a hill, it will be even less.
Also, I am leaning towards a possible bad/going fuel pump or an open FPR. If there isnt enough pressure in the lines, then on a hill, it will be even less.
Ya I was hoping it wouldn't be anything like a fuel a fuel pump, It is getting old though. I suppose I can check my fuel lines. I've been looking it over pretty good lately I'm not leaking anything and everything seems to be running good. Perfect afr's at normal driving and wot. -shrug-
05-01-2009, 03:41 PM
#11
Ya I was hoping it wouldn't be anything like a fuel a fuel pump, It is getting old though. I suppose I can check my fuel lines. I've been looking it over pretty good lately I'm not leaking anything and everything seems to be running good. Perfect afr's at normal driving and wot. -shrug-
05-01-2009, 03:59 PM
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My idle sits around 14.7 as normal, but if I come up to a hill. and I'm waiting for a light for example they will sit around 14.7, but then the car will start to idle real rough, it will rich out to about 11.x:1 then about a second or two later it will return to 14.7 pretty quick then slowly drop from 14.7ish till its at about 18:1 or until it just reads ---, Idle will drop to about 600 rpm. I have to leave it in drive hold the brake and give it load until it'll come back. and it takes it a while to come back..
05-01-2009, 08:15 PM
#13
i have the same problem dude but my car can be sitting flat in a parking spot and itll sit at like 14.5 14.9 then all the sudden itll shoot up too 18.0 or --- and the idle gets rough sounds like its ganna die then it goes back down to 14.5 14.7
05-02-2009, 12:56 AM
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Drove it around tonight now it does it almost everywhere. It will do it randomly though> I did notice when i have my heater fan on high or whatever. "circulate" whatever the button is called, it does it every single time. I have a feeling it's something with my transmission. It feels like it drops into a lower gear or out of gear. and it stays like that. but now it's not returning to my 14.7 it's sitting at 18:0 even after i accelerate. It will feel so powerless, then it willbounce into 14.7 and just take off, like all the power comes back. It's pissing me off. I hate this car.
05-02-2009, 12:59 AM
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Nothing to do with your torque converter. TC's don't 'stick', the stator in them can, but the TC itself can't, and it wouldn't drop your RPMS. If the stator was sticking/seized you'd notice a lack of acceleration/torque at low speeds.
It sounded like a fuel issue to me as well, but now that you've mentioned that it does it in the car wash when the underside gets wet?
Did it do this once, or will it act up any time you put pressurized water to the underside?
The cat is possible, easy way to check is to get the car good and hot on the highway then get off the highway and stop on a hill as fast as you can.
If it acts up immediately, I doubt the cat is the culprit.
Wouldn't mind having some more info on the 02 simulation you have set up and why.... boosted?
It sounded like a fuel issue to me as well, but now that you've mentioned that it does it in the car wash when the underside gets wet?
Did it do this once, or will it act up any time you put pressurized water to the underside?
The cat is possible, easy way to check is to get the car good and hot on the highway then get off the highway and stop on a hill as fast as you can.
If it acts up immediately, I doubt the cat is the culprit.
Wouldn't mind having some more info on the 02 simulation you have set up and why.... boosted?
to get rid of the code, I got it cheap. etc. Anyways I'm pretty sure it has something to do with my tranny.
05-02-2009, 01:29 PM
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Changed the Fuel filter with an OEM looking one, and. Nothing. Even though the other one I could barely blow through it with a air gun. The new one I could blow threw it quite easily. But yeah it did nothing.
I did notice while I was in my garage, when It's in park it'll idle around 14.7, but if I press on the brake it will imediately lean out. When I put it in reverse it doesn't go in super smooth I can hear every noise of it changing gears. But, any more thoughts? I still have a feeling it has something to do with the tranny.
I did notice while I was in my garage, when It's in park it'll idle around 14.7, but if I press on the brake it will imediately lean out. When I put it in reverse it doesn't go in super smooth I can hear every noise of it changing gears. But, any more thoughts? I still have a feeling it has something to do with the tranny.
05-03-2009, 11:43 AM
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00vi swap. Never could get it to fit. Have to re-locate vac lines. It would hit on I belive the EGR stuff.
Also I notice it only does it when the car is warmed up. It didn't do it last night when it was about 40 degrees out. Until it warmed up.
05-03-2009, 02:07 PM
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Can somebody name a few of the reasons that a car would lean out while idling. So that I'm not even in control of the afr's
other than these:
Air leaks after the MAF.
-- Vacuum leaks (vacuum lines and gaskets).
-- Restricted air inlet.
-- PCV system.
-- Fuel purge system.
-- Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.
EGR System
-- leaking gasket.
-- Stuck open EGR valve.
-- Leaking diaphragm.
My car is EXTREMELY quite. And I've not been able to hear any leaks what so ever. Although after I turn the car off it sounds like air is getting sucked in. But I belive that is just the Intake (Pop charger, anybody else with a pop charger notice that?)
Also what did you guys who have headers do with the EGR tube that goes into the stock manifold exhaust. Did you just bend the pipe over a few times?
Also what is a cheap way to clean the intake? How do some of you guys clean your Pop chargers/cone filters etc
other than these:
Air leaks after the MAF.
-- Vacuum leaks (vacuum lines and gaskets).
-- Restricted air inlet.
-- PCV system.
-- Fuel purge system.
-- Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.
EGR System
-- leaking gasket.
-- Stuck open EGR valve.
-- Leaking diaphragm.
My car is EXTREMELY quite. And I've not been able to hear any leaks what so ever. Although after I turn the car off it sounds like air is getting sucked in. But I belive that is just the Intake (Pop charger, anybody else with a pop charger notice that?)
Also what did you guys who have headers do with the EGR tube that goes into the stock manifold exhaust. Did you just bend the pipe over a few times?
Also what is a cheap way to clean the intake? How do some of you guys clean your Pop chargers/cone filters etc
Last edited by ZaxWhite97Max; 05-03-2009 at 03:10 PM.
05-03-2009, 05:21 PM
#24
Vacuum Leaks would cause it to be leaned out. However, they would also cause a jumpy idle.
No on the restricted air inlet, PCV system or the oil dipstick.
Regarding the EGR valve and the Fuel purge... Both of these could affect it. I would remove the EGR all together(I have, no issues whatsoever) and you can try that. The Fuel Purge, I believe you are talking about the EVAP right? Yes, that could affect it. Im not sure how, but what I do know is that the evap controls the flow of gas fumes into the UIM and the gas tank.
(Side note, my dad has the EVAP code on his Sienna today, we went to advanced, got a new gas cap, cleared the code, and its not back yet. Might wanna check your seal/gasket on the cap)
No on the restricted air inlet, PCV system or the oil dipstick.
Regarding the EGR valve and the Fuel purge... Both of these could affect it. I would remove the EGR all together(I have, no issues whatsoever) and you can try that. The Fuel Purge, I believe you are talking about the EVAP right? Yes, that could affect it. Im not sure how, but what I do know is that the evap controls the flow of gas fumes into the UIM and the gas tank.
(Side note, my dad has the EVAP code on his Sienna today, we went to advanced, got a new gas cap, cleared the code, and its not back yet. Might wanna check your seal/gasket on the cap)
05-03-2009, 08:08 PM
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Vacuum Leaks would cause it to be leaned out. However, they would also cause a jumpy idle.
No on the restricted air inlet, PCV system or the oil dipstick.
Regarding the EGR valve and the Fuel purge... Both of these could affect it. I would remove the EGR all together(I have, no issues whatsoever) and you can try that. The Fuel Purge, I believe you are talking about the EVAP right? Yes, that could affect it. Im not sure how, but what I do know is that the evap controls the flow of gas fumes into the UIM and the gas tank.
(Side note, my dad has the EVAP code on his Sienna today, we went to advanced, got a new gas cap, cleared the code, and its not back yet. Might wanna check your seal/gasket on the cap)
No on the restricted air inlet, PCV system or the oil dipstick.
Regarding the EGR valve and the Fuel purge... Both of these could affect it. I would remove the EGR all together(I have, no issues whatsoever) and you can try that. The Fuel Purge, I believe you are talking about the EVAP right? Yes, that could affect it. Im not sure how, but what I do know is that the evap controls the flow of gas fumes into the UIM and the gas tank.
(Side note, my dad has the EVAP code on his Sienna today, we went to advanced, got a new gas cap, cleared the code, and its not back yet. Might wanna check your seal/gasket on the cap)
But about your EGR. how did you "fully take it out?"
Pictures as to what all you took out would be helpful. I just simply plugged the one tube that comes from the bottom side. and then the one that goes into the stock exhaust manifold I just took it out and pounded it over, then put it back. That what you did?
05-03-2009, 08:21 PM
#26
Nah My gas caps holds pretty tight, when I'm low on gas and unscrew it lots of pressure is released so I know that can't be an issue.
But about your EGR. how did you "fully take it out?"
Pictures as to what all you took out would be helpful. I just simply plugged the one tube that comes from the bottom side. and then the one that goes into the stock exhaust manifold I just took it out and pounded it over, then put it back. That what you did?
But about your EGR. how did you "fully take it out?"
Pictures as to what all you took out would be helpful. I just simply plugged the one tube that comes from the bottom side. and then the one that goes into the stock exhaust manifold I just took it out and pounded it over, then put it back. That what you did?
Have you done a fuel pressure test yet?
try wrapping saran wrap or something around the air filter and see how it runs, essentially you're blocking off the point that 90-100% the air should be coming from, if the car runs better, you have a bad intake leak, also if it stays running at all, just poorly, you can usually hear where it's sucking air in from.
If it dies immediately the intake system is usually sealed perfect.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 05-03-2009 at 08:28 PM.
05-03-2009, 08:26 PM
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No. Mainly beacause when I changed the fuel filter, It had tons of pressure in it. I suppose there could be a backage near, or in rail or closer to it but i'm highly doubting it. I get perfect afr's at WOT, if I had some sort of blockage I pouring more fuel into it at WOT would only clog this further, I believe.
Good idea on the suran wrap I suppose I can try something similar tomorrow. Althought I'm fairly certain I have no leaks before my MAF. The air is being sensored fine. There are few times where I can come up to a stop sign and it will just sit and idle perfectly. sit right around 14.7-14.8, no vibrations no nothing> like the car is perfect. but 90% of the time I pull up and it just shaking my passenger seat and idling lower and lower. the other day it wouldn't drop below 700rpm. now it's getting to the 400's it's getting worse, before I can figure it out.
Last edited by ZaxWhite97Max; 05-03-2009 at 08:37 PM.
05-04-2009, 12:02 PM
#28
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I did the bag around the intake and it died IMMEDIATELY. I heard absolutely no leaks what so ever. So I'm pretty happy about that. I squirt starting fluid all over possible leak spots and not once had a rise in RPMS's other than the obvious intake. So I'm doubting it's a leak of any kind.
I'll post a few pics of my o2 setup along with my egr setup and see what you guys think. My egr has been like this for about 8 months so I don't think it'd be that. Unless it's the tube, which was recently bent over after I closed the port on the headers.
Also here is a video of what it does. notice my RPM's and THr% and then notice my afr's, It'll usually sit lean like that no matter how much 'gas' I give it until I'm 30% or more on the Throttle. I would have driven it around for a better video but the car is on ramps so I figured I'd just give it a little gas. But you can see how it'll spike when I give it gas then lean back out and stay there.
Also when I'm driving it, it'll stay lean and pretty much I'll be accelerating and have absolutely NO power at all. Then all of a sudden it will rich out to the normal and pretty much the only word I can use to describe it is would say it's like Nitrous, It just instantly has power and takes off even if I'm at a steady throttle. Anyways watch the vid tell me what you think I'll get some pictures posted up here soon. Also I'll get a video of my exhaust so you can hear that as well. It sounds almost liek something is caught in it.
I'll post a few pics of my o2 setup along with my egr setup and see what you guys think. My egr has been like this for about 8 months so I don't think it'd be that. Unless it's the tube, which was recently bent over after I closed the port on the headers.
Also here is a video of what it does. notice my RPM's and THr% and then notice my afr's, It'll usually sit lean like that no matter how much 'gas' I give it until I'm 30% or more on the Throttle. I would have driven it around for a better video but the car is on ramps so I figured I'd just give it a little gas. But you can see how it'll spike when I give it gas then lean back out and stay there.
Also when I'm driving it, it'll stay lean and pretty much I'll be accelerating and have absolutely NO power at all. Then all of a sudden it will rich out to the normal and pretty much the only word I can use to describe it is would say it's like Nitrous, It just instantly has power and takes off even if I'm at a steady throttle. Anyways watch the vid tell me what you think I'll get some pictures posted up here soon. Also I'll get a video of my exhaust so you can hear that as well. It sounds almost liek something is caught in it.
05-05-2009, 12:08 PM
#29
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Put in half a bottle of Lubeguard, the red bottle, as was recommended by another member. I should have done this sooner. It helped A LOT Althought it didn't rid it, I knew this was a tranny problem too, but it's still there. It only happens now on hills (again) and when I hit the brakes hard. or when I'm on the highway going 60+
it's pissing me off, I'm about to part out this car -_-
Could a vac leak in the brake booster cause something similar?
it's pissing me off, I'm about to part out this car -_-
Could a vac leak in the brake booster cause something similar?
Last edited by ZaxWhite97Max; 05-05-2009 at 03:10 PM.
05-06-2009, 09:42 PM
#30
This is why I HATE automatic transmissions, SO difficult to diagnose any issue.
I would reccomend you do a stall test on the vehicle. Ideally you should be using a dyno to do this test, but you can do it by brake tourquing, it is though, obiously very tough on components.
Do a little searching I haven't got the time right now, but it will help you isolate whether you have an issue in the transmission/TC or the engine, which will help us from guessing what the problem could be.
Have you checked/replaced your ECTS?
I would reccomend you do a stall test on the vehicle. Ideally you should be using a dyno to do this test, but you can do it by brake tourquing, it is though, obiously very tough on components.
Do a little searching I haven't got the time right now, but it will help you isolate whether you have an issue in the transmission/TC or the engine, which will help us from guessing what the problem could be.
Have you checked/replaced your ECTS?
05-06-2009, 11:17 PM
#31
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This is why I HATE automatic transmissions, SO difficult to diagnose any issue.
I would reccomend you do a stall test on the vehicle. Ideally you should be using a dyno to do this test, but you can do it by brake tourquing, it is though, obiously very tough on components.
Do a little searching I haven't got the time right now, but it will help you isolate whether you have an issue in the transmission/TC or the engine, which will help us from guessing what the problem could be.
Have you checked/replaced your ECTS?
I would reccomend you do a stall test on the vehicle. Ideally you should be using a dyno to do this test, but you can do it by brake tourquing, it is though, obiously very tough on components.
Do a little searching I haven't got the time right now, but it will help you isolate whether you have an issue in the transmission/TC or the engine, which will help us from guessing what the problem could be.
Have you checked/replaced your ECTS?
Stall Test..... -_- last resort
I have not checked the ECTS. althought I swapped every thing from my old transmission to this new one. Everything was working fine on that one.
My friend gave me the idea of the brake booster to check if its that. I have a fall in RPM when I brake and leans out when I brake. I checked all my lines and they are pretty worn but I don't think I could be getting a leak anywhere. I'll have to unplug it tomorrow and do a final check but didn't have time today to really work on it.
Basically the only thing that I can say that I havn't alread is that. If I'm at a stop, and it sets into this leaned out mode, if I let off the brake I don't get that smooth roll forward that you normally get, basically it'll just shudder, or jump forward, More of a quick burst of spasms. If feels like something is getting stuck, like I've said it'll stay into the lean mode until I get on it pretty decent enough for it to come out, and when it comes out it takes off.
It's annoying me. and I'm to the point to where I'm bored of the car and fwd cars for that matter. I'm seriously to the point to where im going to part the ****er out. Even if it's a simple fix. I'm not about to tear back into the tranny to swap TC's or anything like that. And I'm not about to pay someone to do it either.
05-07-2009, 08:29 PM
#32
Stall Test..... -_- last resort
I have not checked the ECTS. althought I swapped every thing from my old transmission to this new one. Everything was working fine on that one.
My friend gave me the idea of the brake booster to check if its that. I have a fall in RPM when I brake and leans out when I brake. I checked all my lines and they are pretty worn but I don't think I could be getting a leak anywhere. I'll have to unplug it tomorrow and do a final check but didn't have time today to really work on it.
Basically the only thing that I can say that I havn't alread is that. If I'm at a stop, and it sets into this leaned out mode, if I let off the brake I don't get that smooth roll forward that you normally get, basically it'll just shudder, or jump forward, More of a quick burst of spasms. If feels like something is getting stuck, like I've said it'll stay into the lean mode until I get on it pretty decent enough for it to come out, and when it comes out it takes off.
It's annoying me. and I'm to the point to where I'm bored of the car and fwd cars for that matter. I'm seriously to the point to where im going to part the ****er out. Even if it's a simple fix. I'm not about to tear back into the tranny to swap TC's or anything like that. And I'm not about to pay someone to do it either.
I have not checked the ECTS. althought I swapped every thing from my old transmission to this new one. Everything was working fine on that one.
My friend gave me the idea of the brake booster to check if its that. I have a fall in RPM when I brake and leans out when I brake. I checked all my lines and they are pretty worn but I don't think I could be getting a leak anywhere. I'll have to unplug it tomorrow and do a final check but didn't have time today to really work on it.
Basically the only thing that I can say that I havn't alread is that. If I'm at a stop, and it sets into this leaned out mode, if I let off the brake I don't get that smooth roll forward that you normally get, basically it'll just shudder, or jump forward, More of a quick burst of spasms. If feels like something is getting stuck, like I've said it'll stay into the lean mode until I get on it pretty decent enough for it to come out, and when it comes out it takes off.
It's annoying me. and I'm to the point to where I'm bored of the car and fwd cars for that matter. I'm seriously to the point to where im going to part the ****er out. Even if it's a simple fix. I'm not about to tear back into the tranny to swap TC's or anything like that. And I'm not about to pay someone to do it either.
05-14-2009, 08:56 PM
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Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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So lately the afr thing has been killing me, It's been getting "stuck" and leaning out way to much. I don't actually think the motor is leaning out. but it's doing something enough to cause a "lean sense" in the wideband the engine runs fine at WOT but I did notice a decrease in TQ. I've also noticed my radiator support mount which is completely rusted through was getting worse and worse. I ended up pulling the front bolts out (they weren't even attatched) that attaches the front engine upport to the radiator support. Anyways I stuck a beam through it and drilled holes, yada yada etc... And fixed the problem for a while. It's stiff and held up really good. So I'm not worried about it. anyways I get in my car and to my surprise! No more getting "stuck" and no more "leaning out", while driving that is.
Although I was EXTREMELY low on gas, and it wouldn't even like get out of gear, I was 50% throttle at 4k rpm and it was accelerating but it wasn't going anywhere..
Anyways I filled it up and it started running good again yada yada
But when I come to a complete stop it'll sit at it's 14.7 but slowly dip to this 18.0 leaned out crap and 'drop out of gear' is what it feels like, and I've explained it numerous times before of what it feels like but yea. I'm pretty happy that it no longer does it while driving.
Now I guess my question would be. Since it did it while it was low on gas could it have something to do with my fuel. But then why did it 'fix' when I got my engine bolted up higher. also my block is basically sitting on my y-pipe for my headers, idk why. I tried jacking it up but it wouldn't budge, I saw how the guy had it welded in there and it WAS NOT anywhere near touching the block before...
I know it's not my Maf, I kno it's nothing to do with vac lines. idk why it 'corrected' itself after i got it "properly" supported. It's pissing me off.
Who wants to trade there black 4th gen with black leather interior 5spd with sunroof fully loaded for it?
Although I was EXTREMELY low on gas, and it wouldn't even like get out of gear, I was 50% throttle at 4k rpm and it was accelerating but it wasn't going anywhere..
Anyways I filled it up and it started running good again yada yada
But when I come to a complete stop it'll sit at it's 14.7 but slowly dip to this 18.0 leaned out crap and 'drop out of gear' is what it feels like, and I've explained it numerous times before of what it feels like but yea. I'm pretty happy that it no longer does it while driving.
Now I guess my question would be. Since it did it while it was low on gas could it have something to do with my fuel. But then why did it 'fix' when I got my engine bolted up higher. also my block is basically sitting on my y-pipe for my headers, idk why. I tried jacking it up but it wouldn't budge, I saw how the guy had it welded in there and it WAS NOT anywhere near touching the block before...
I know it's not my Maf, I kno it's nothing to do with vac lines. idk why it 'corrected' itself after i got it "properly" supported. It's pissing me off.
Who wants to trade there black 4th gen with black leather interior 5spd with sunroof fully loaded for it?
05-19-2009, 07:15 PM
#37
4900
Bunch of questions/comments here, try to go through them and perform the tests one by one if you can.
We really need to isolate the issue to the engine or transmission.
Because this isn't a common issue on the Max, it's very tough to diagnose without having the car so try to perform the tests as best you can if you haven't given up yet.
Two questions as well that I should have asked right away:
1. When was the car last serviced and tuned up, spark plugs, what plugs are in it, etc.
2. how many kilometers are on your max?
Sticking to the engine side, it seems like a main sensor issue, but since there are no codes, the ECTS would be a good thing to check but other than that I can't see any other sensors causing this issue without throwing a code.
There is still a chance that your wiring to the 'simmed' 02 has went for a crap for some reason, being poor wiring or whatever, but visual inspection isn't always good enough, and this could be your issue.
Another thought is an intake/exhaust problem, ie. leak, restriction. As you've checked the intake the next step should be the exhaust, I'd take the time to pop the Y pipe loose as was mentioned to verify that the exhaust isn't plugged up, etc.
Aside from those I'd suggest that your IACV/TB is plugged up very bad, you have no IACV, have you checked the TB?
I'm not sure if I asked this but have you checked/upgraded all your grounds?
Do you have a voltmeter installed? If so does the voltage seem to fluctuate at all when the car does this?
If there is nothing conclusive from this, a couple tranny checks, then stall test to be sure what's at fault.
Bunch of questions/comments here, try to go through them and perform the tests one by one if you can.
We really need to isolate the issue to the engine or transmission.
Because this isn't a common issue on the Max, it's very tough to diagnose without having the car so try to perform the tests as best you can if you haven't given up yet.
Two questions as well that I should have asked right away:
1. When was the car last serviced and tuned up, spark plugs, what plugs are in it, etc.
2. how many kilometers are on your max?
Sticking to the engine side, it seems like a main sensor issue, but since there are no codes, the ECTS would be a good thing to check but other than that I can't see any other sensors causing this issue without throwing a code.
There is still a chance that your wiring to the 'simmed' 02 has went for a crap for some reason, being poor wiring or whatever, but visual inspection isn't always good enough, and this could be your issue.
Another thought is an intake/exhaust problem, ie. leak, restriction. As you've checked the intake the next step should be the exhaust, I'd take the time to pop the Y pipe loose as was mentioned to verify that the exhaust isn't plugged up, etc.
Aside from those I'd suggest that your IACV/TB is plugged up very bad, you have no IACV, have you checked the TB?
I'm not sure if I asked this but have you checked/upgraded all your grounds?
Do you have a voltmeter installed? If so does the voltage seem to fluctuate at all when the car does this?
If there is nothing conclusive from this, a couple tranny checks, then stall test to be sure what's at fault.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 05-19-2009 at 07:18 PM.
05-19-2009, 08:41 PM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 373
Bunch of questions/comments here, try to go through them and perform the tests one by one if you can.
We really need to isolate the issue to the engine or transmission.
Because this isn't a common issue on the Max, it's very tough to diagnose without having the car so try to perform the tests as best you can if you haven't given up yet.
Two questions as well that I should have asked right away:
1. When was the car last serviced and tuned up, spark plugs, what plugs are in it, etc. I put in NGK's back when I did my 00vi swap, which was last AUG of 08. About 3 weeks ago when I was doing header install I popped them out to check them, and they were in amazing condition. I was rather surprised, so I took them all out to check all of them and they were in all very good condition so I didn't change them.
2. how many kilometers are on your max? Body has 240k (miles, not kilo), engine has about 60k tranny has 110k (approx) Pretty much every serviceable thing on my engine is replaced, every single sensor has been replaced. everything....
Sticking to the engine side, it seems like a main sensor issue, but since there are no codes, the ECTS would be a good thing to check but other than that I can't see any other sensors causing this issue without throwing a code. I'm throwing no codes except, egr/evap/iacv (which I have pulled all those off so...) And then I'm throwing a code for the 02 sensor after the cat, (even though I simmed it)
There is still a chance that your wiring to the 'simmed' 02 has went for a crap for some reason, being poor wiring or whatever, but visual inspection isn't always good enough, and this could be your issue. Nah, it was running bad even before I simmed it, I've taken residential and industrial wiring classes so I'm not bad with wiring, specially something that has a total of 3 connections...
Another thought is an intake/exhaust problem, ie. leak, restriction. As you've checked the intake the next step should be the exhaust, I'd take the time to pop the Y pipe loose as was mentioned to verify that the exhaust isn't plugged up, etc. Yes, I havn't had time to take off the cat, but it does feel like something is almost getting stuck, sometimes it'll pop in and out of it's "lean" mode, it will hit 14.x then pop to 17.x and I'll lose all sorts of power, then it will pop back into 14.x range, it will do this about once a second as I'm accelerating, there could be blockage in cat...We'll see tomorrow
Aside from those I'd suggest that your IACV/TB is plugged up very bad, you have no IACV, have you checked the TB? My TB is extremely clean..
I'm not sure if I asked this but have you checked/upgraded all your grounds? I have a grounding kit.
Do you have a voltmeter installed? If so does the voltage seem to fluctuate at all when the car does this? Voltage to what? the battery? my vafc tells me my batt voltage and it never changes. or gets into a bad area
If there is nothing conclusive from this, a couple tranny checks, then stall test to be sure what's at fault.
We really need to isolate the issue to the engine or transmission.
Because this isn't a common issue on the Max, it's very tough to diagnose without having the car so try to perform the tests as best you can if you haven't given up yet.
Two questions as well that I should have asked right away:
1. When was the car last serviced and tuned up, spark plugs, what plugs are in it, etc. I put in NGK's back when I did my 00vi swap, which was last AUG of 08. About 3 weeks ago when I was doing header install I popped them out to check them, and they were in amazing condition. I was rather surprised, so I took them all out to check all of them and they were in all very good condition so I didn't change them.
2. how many kilometers are on your max? Body has 240k (miles, not kilo), engine has about 60k tranny has 110k (approx) Pretty much every serviceable thing on my engine is replaced, every single sensor has been replaced. everything....
Sticking to the engine side, it seems like a main sensor issue, but since there are no codes, the ECTS would be a good thing to check but other than that I can't see any other sensors causing this issue without throwing a code. I'm throwing no codes except, egr/evap/iacv (which I have pulled all those off so...) And then I'm throwing a code for the 02 sensor after the cat, (even though I simmed it)
There is still a chance that your wiring to the 'simmed' 02 has went for a crap for some reason, being poor wiring or whatever, but visual inspection isn't always good enough, and this could be your issue. Nah, it was running bad even before I simmed it, I've taken residential and industrial wiring classes so I'm not bad with wiring, specially something that has a total of 3 connections...
Another thought is an intake/exhaust problem, ie. leak, restriction. As you've checked the intake the next step should be the exhaust, I'd take the time to pop the Y pipe loose as was mentioned to verify that the exhaust isn't plugged up, etc. Yes, I havn't had time to take off the cat, but it does feel like something is almost getting stuck, sometimes it'll pop in and out of it's "lean" mode, it will hit 14.x then pop to 17.x and I'll lose all sorts of power, then it will pop back into 14.x range, it will do this about once a second as I'm accelerating, there could be blockage in cat...We'll see tomorrow
Aside from those I'd suggest that your IACV/TB is plugged up very bad, you have no IACV, have you checked the TB? My TB is extremely clean..
I'm not sure if I asked this but have you checked/upgraded all your grounds? I have a grounding kit.
Do you have a voltmeter installed? If so does the voltage seem to fluctuate at all when the car does this? Voltage to what? the battery? my vafc tells me my batt voltage and it never changes. or gets into a bad area
If there is nothing conclusive from this, a couple tranny checks, then stall test to be sure what's at fault.
Last edited by ZaxWhite97Max; 05-19-2009 at 08:43 PM.
05-19-2009, 09:10 PM
#39
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolton, CT
Posts: 199
Two things I don't think I saw anyone else mention, TPS is suspect and also the grounds in the engine compartment. I have also read of a turn in the engine wiring harness on the fire wall that has caused some mysterious problems.
05-19-2009, 09:41 PM
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 373
I have cut open most all the wiring harness in the engine bay, back when I did 00vi swap, to check for any bad wires, and sealed it all up properly. Nothing looked bad.