Are my coil packs going out?
05-01-2009, 09:31 AM
#1
Are my coil packs going out?
When I am idling at a stop light, there is this suddenly and small (in scale) but very noticeable jolt to the car like someone just tapped my back bumper. Only happened when I am at idle (auto in gear and holding down the brakes),
I am running a Scanguage II and do not notice any irregularities in RPM or HP but then again it has a 1 second refresh rate but the jolt is quicker so may not register. I don’t know much about engine management but I get the feeling I have to either replace my spark plugs and/or the coil packs b/c it feels like the engine is misfiring. Granted, my spark plugs are overdue for a change (will do this weekend) but not sure if that’s it.
Anyone have a similar experience or can share a little as to how you’d know the coil pack is going out?
Btw, this is a '98 with 123K and no engine work other than spark plug and motor oil changes -everything else is original.
Thanks!
I am running a Scanguage II and do not notice any irregularities in RPM or HP but then again it has a 1 second refresh rate but the jolt is quicker so may not register. I don’t know much about engine management but I get the feeling I have to either replace my spark plugs and/or the coil packs b/c it feels like the engine is misfiring. Granted, my spark plugs are overdue for a change (will do this weekend) but not sure if that’s it.
Anyone have a similar experience or can share a little as to how you’d know the coil pack is going out?
Btw, this is a '98 with 123K and no engine work other than spark plug and motor oil changes -everything else is original.
Thanks!
05-01-2009, 10:18 AM
#2
Slight loaded idle misfires like that are typically indicative of coil pack failure (or the beginning of it).
Change the plugs first off, but likely it's a coil. Which one? You more than likely won't get a specific cylinder code until it degrades into a constant misfire. Even then, sometimes it won't.
So you get to play find the bad coil.
Change the plugs first off, but likely it's a coil. Which one? You more than likely won't get a specific cylinder code until it degrades into a constant misfire. Even then, sometimes it won't.
So you get to play find the bad coil.
05-01-2009, 12:04 PM
#3
pmohr's right, it's a bad coil. I just had this EXACT problem after "snapping" a coil pack trying to reinstall it. Got a used coil from the junkyard, replaced it, and the problem was gone.
Your issue might be a little tougher to fix, as you've gotta find the bad coil first. Get a working coilpack to swap out with yours one by one. I have a working rear one for sale if you're interested.
Your issue might be a little tougher to fix, as you've gotta find the bad coil first. Get a working coilpack to swap out with yours one by one. I have a working rear one for sale if you're interested.
05-01-2009, 12:36 PM
#4
Just curious, if a coil pack malfunction is most easily detected with the car in gear with a slightly loaded idle, what would be the most easily detectable situation for a car with a manual transmission?
05-01-2009, 07:31 PM
#6
If you want some cheap coil packs, I've got a front set for sale on ebay currently, ending in a day. PM me if you are interested.
When I had a bad coilpack it would misfire at idle just kind of like a light shudder, and the rpms would dip almost like the car was going to stall, but nothing too dramatic. It would misfire during driving the car hard as well and the performance was considerably worse for like half of the power band. Lately I get something else which I dont think is a misfire and its more like what you are explaining where it feels almost like I have just dropped the clutch (quite a jolt) when in fact I am in gear very light on the throttle. I thought it was a TPS problem..I've just replaced it but I'm still monitoring it.
Sorry for the ramble. The tps problem never caused a problem at idle.
When I had a bad coilpack it would misfire at idle just kind of like a light shudder, and the rpms would dip almost like the car was going to stall, but nothing too dramatic. It would misfire during driving the car hard as well and the performance was considerably worse for like half of the power band. Lately I get something else which I dont think is a misfire and its more like what you are explaining where it feels almost like I have just dropped the clutch (quite a jolt) when in fact I am in gear very light on the throttle. I thought it was a TPS problem..I've just replaced it but I'm still monitoring it.
Sorry for the ramble. The tps problem never caused a problem at idle.
05-01-2009, 10:58 PM
#7
Yeah, it feels like the engine bay "stumbles" once, and the tach needle bounces down 100 RPM or so and right back up.
05-02-2009, 05:53 AM
#8
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 45
yea i did the same thing.....put bosch plat. tipped........well the car didnt like them lol so the dude says maxima's like NGK's so that took care of that.
05-02-2009, 05:59 AM
#9
FWIW, if you're on the original coils, they're going to die. Who knows when, but I would replace the whole set at the first sign of trouble, call it preventative maintenance.
05-03-2009, 12:13 AM
#10
Im having this same problem myself. Took it to the dealer and i told them i was getting an egr CEL code and they said my egr was causing it to misfire. So they tried to talk me into a $700 fuel system clean.... haha yea right. Who has the cheapest new oem coils on the net? Is it better to just replace one at the time till the problem resolves, or can you ohm a bad coil out to see if its malfunctioning?
05-03-2009, 07:14 AM
#12
Im having this same problem myself. Took it to the dealer and i told them i was getting an egr CEL code and they said my egr was causing it to misfire. So they tried to talk me into a $700 fuel system clean.... haha yea right. Who has the cheapest new oem coils on the net? Is it better to just replace one at the time till the problem resolves, or can you ohm a bad coil out to see if its malfunctioning?
Have you not checked out that possibility? Just unplug the EGR valve, see if the miss goes away.
Again, personally, I'd replace every coil on a '99 and call it preventative maintenance. You can just go with a used set, they'll last you a long time, and for cheap.
You can test a coil (search) but the test isn't always definitive.
05-03-2009, 09:30 AM
#14
It's possible the EGR is opening at improper times, causing a stumble.
Have you not checked out that possibility? Just unplug the EGR valve, see if the miss goes away.
Again, personally, I'd replace every coil on a '99 and call it preventative maintenance. You can just go with a used set, they'll last you a long time, and for cheap.
You can test a coil (search) but the test isn't always definitive.
Have you not checked out that possibility? Just unplug the EGR valve, see if the miss goes away.
Again, personally, I'd replace every coil on a '99 and call it preventative maintenance. You can just go with a used set, they'll last you a long time, and for cheap.
You can test a coil (search) but the test isn't always definitive.
i would have to recommend the same. i been experiencing a slightly more severe case of coil pack issues. mine were overheating and thus exploding due to receiving excessive current when it is not suppose to. this only applied to new aftermarket coils that i bought, which were advance auto coils (BWD automotive), and nissan coils. I ended up buying 3 used front coils and swapped all the 3 front original ones w/ the ones i bought. It has been fine thus far and hope it will stay that way
05-03-2009, 11:23 AM
#15
It's possible the EGR is opening at improper times, causing a stumble.
Have you not checked out that possibility? Just unplug the EGR valve, see if the miss goes away.
Again, personally, I'd replace every coil on a '99 and call it preventative maintenance. You can just go with a used set, they'll last you a long time, and for cheap.
You can test a coil (search) but the test isn't always definitive.
Have you not checked out that possibility? Just unplug the EGR valve, see if the miss goes away.
Again, personally, I'd replace every coil on a '99 and call it preventative maintenance. You can just go with a used set, they'll last you a long time, and for cheap.
You can test a coil (search) but the test isn't always definitive.
05-04-2009, 05:53 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 45
It's possible the EGR is opening at improper times, causing a stumble.
Have you not checked out that possibility? Just unplug the EGR valve, see if the miss goes away.
Again, personally, I'd replace every coil on a '99 and call it preventative maintenance. You can just go with a used set, they'll last you a long time, and for cheap.
You can test a coil (search) but the test isn't always definitive.
Have you not checked out that possibility? Just unplug the EGR valve, see if the miss goes away.
Again, personally, I'd replace every coil on a '99 and call it preventative maintenance. You can just go with a used set, they'll last you a long time, and for cheap.
You can test a coil (search) but the test isn't always definitive.
man i want you for my mechanic
......your good with nissans.
05-04-2009, 07:12 PM
#18
Before you ask where you can find the FSM, just look at my sig.
There is no ignitor, the coils recieve a firing signal directly from the ECU.
05-05-2009, 09:10 AM
#20
05-05-2009, 02:05 PM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
99 max, 100K SE.... Coils, I replaced all of mine at about 50K. One by one per week to see which were bad and which were good. Saved the good ones and threw the bad ones.
Well last week, a code said cylinder 1 had a misfire so I replaced the coil with a saved good coil and all was ok.
I then cleaned the bad coil connection between the actual coil high voltage contact and the spring itself that connects to the spark plug. Put it back in cylinder 1 and it works as good as the spare.
So is the actual coil electronics that is bad, and there are electronics in the coil as I took one apart or is it just a matter of cleaning the high voltage transmission arrangement in the coil pack.
I know the environment these things live in is a nasty world. I see some leaking of (stuff) in cylinder 1 spark plug area. I have new valve cover gasket, which includes a round gasket for each of the sparkplug/coil areas.
Any comments? I wish I would have kept the bad coils from my first replacement. These things are expensive.
Well last week, a code said cylinder 1 had a misfire so I replaced the coil with a saved good coil and all was ok.
I then cleaned the bad coil connection between the actual coil high voltage contact and the spring itself that connects to the spark plug. Put it back in cylinder 1 and it works as good as the spare.
So is the actual coil electronics that is bad, and there are electronics in the coil as I took one apart or is it just a matter of cleaning the high voltage transmission arrangement in the coil pack.
I know the environment these things live in is a nasty world. I see some leaking of (stuff) in cylinder 1 spark plug area. I have new valve cover gasket, which includes a round gasket for each of the sparkplug/coil areas.
Any comments? I wish I would have kept the bad coils from my first replacement. These things are expensive.
05-06-2009, 11:03 AM
#22
Update:
Replace the spark plugs and all seems good for now. Also replace the air filter (also WAY over due) and she pulls much harder than I remembered!
While I was at it I inspected the coil packs. I notice when looking up at the boot I see that the spring that contacts the spark plug has a little bit of white powder coating on it. I wonder if this could be a culprit why coil packs fail b/c over time the build up could prevent contact with the spark plug, therefore losing spark.?. Maybe it is worth trying to clean before replacement? Maybe spray a little disc brake cleaner, drain, and let dry? Thinking out loud.
Replace the spark plugs and all seems good for now. Also replace the air filter (also WAY over due) and she pulls much harder than I remembered!
While I was at it I inspected the coil packs. I notice when looking up at the boot I see that the spring that contacts the spark plug has a little bit of white powder coating on it. I wonder if this could be a culprit why coil packs fail b/c over time the build up could prevent contact with the spark plug, therefore losing spark.?. Maybe it is worth trying to clean before replacement? Maybe spray a little disc brake cleaner, drain, and let dry? Thinking out loud.
05-06-2009, 12:39 PM
#23
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
<Maybe it is worth trying to clean before replacement? Maybe spray a little disc brake cleaner, drain, and let dry? Thinking out loud.>
Maybe electronic contact cleaner would be a better choice. And of course the new great thing, a liberal amount of dielectric grease works wonders. If it looks bad on that end, its probably the same on the other and it should be cleaned. A cheap way to test it out. Good luck.
Maybe electronic contact cleaner would be a better choice. And of course the new great thing, a liberal amount of dielectric grease works wonders. If it looks bad on that end, its probably the same on the other and it should be cleaned. A cheap way to test it out. Good luck.
05-07-2009, 07:32 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Bethany Beach, DE
Posts: 127
for me i replaced the spark plugs and it subsided for a couple months but it came back, i had one bad coil pack, even started to throw misfire code (tested all with meter) and replaced it with an old one from a junk yard that tested perfect and honestly it was like getting a new car, the max was unbelievable more responsive and smooth
05-11-2009, 05:46 AM
#25
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Maybe you can only test continuity of the wires portion of the coil assembly, I don't know.
05-11-2009, 07:25 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 477
Does a bad coil pack throw a check engine light, or at least store a code if no CEL is illuminated?
My 99 with 85K is doing the same as the other posters. Occasional shudder, rpms wonder about.
Has original factory 1999 era coil packs. Has had spark plugs at 60K. I dont think the EGR valve has been serviced-how expensive?
Note, it did run a little smoother when using a fuel injector cleaner, one of those every 3000 mile products.
Still sort of sounds like a bad EGR or a intermittently bad coil pack.
Only notice this at idle, never at high rpm.
the knock sensor is dead, so the low end torque is a little lacking. Needs a new knock sensor.
My 99 with 85K is doing the same as the other posters. Occasional shudder, rpms wonder about.
Has original factory 1999 era coil packs. Has had spark plugs at 60K. I dont think the EGR valve has been serviced-how expensive?
Note, it did run a little smoother when using a fuel injector cleaner, one of those every 3000 mile products.
Still sort of sounds like a bad EGR or a intermittently bad coil pack.
Only notice this at idle, never at high rpm.
the knock sensor is dead, so the low end torque is a little lacking. Needs a new knock sensor.
05-11-2009, 07:30 AM
#27
Does a bad coil pack throw a check engine light, or at least store a code if no CEL is illuminated?
My 99 with 85K is doing the same as the other posters. Occasional shudder, rpms wonder about.
Has original factory 1999 era coil packs. Has had spark plugs at 60K. I dont think the EGR valve has been serviced-how expensive?
Note, it did run a little smoother when using a fuel injector cleaner, one of those every 3000 mile products.
Still sort of sounds like a bad EGR or a intermittently bad coil pack.
Only notice this at idle, never at high rpm.
the knock sensor is dead, so the low end torque is a little lacking. Needs a new knock sensor.
My 99 with 85K is doing the same as the other posters. Occasional shudder, rpms wonder about.
Has original factory 1999 era coil packs. Has had spark plugs at 60K. I dont think the EGR valve has been serviced-how expensive?
Note, it did run a little smoother when using a fuel injector cleaner, one of those every 3000 mile products.
Still sort of sounds like a bad EGR or a intermittently bad coil pack.
Only notice this at idle, never at high rpm.
the knock sensor is dead, so the low end torque is a little lacking. Needs a new knock sensor.
Search, the '99s are known for defective coil packs. Again, if I had a '99 with original coils, I'd replace them all as preventative maintenance.
06-03-2009, 09:09 PM
#29
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
DEFINITIVE ANSWER FOR MISFIRE FINALLY!
OK I have a 96 gxe I got a good deal on it cause the owner could not find the cause of a bad misfire that comes and goes. He had swapped coil packs one at a time with a new one, checked codes, ruled out fuel pressure (48), and fuel pump. He checked everything he could think of and he was a mechanic. I bought it brought it honme and retraced everything and redid it all. Turns out it was the spark plugs. It had autolite double platinum in it, i threw those out and dropped in some NGK VPOWERs. Instantly the miss was gone, and shes running smooth as silk with over 220,000 miles. I spent all night reading most all of the posts here on this subject. The bottom line is this. My cause had a TERRIBLE miss at idle, and while cruising under light throttle, but if you get down in it it smoothed out until the rpms dropped below about 2000 at highway speed. The plugs werent in bad shape, but it seems the resistance is too much to pass through the plug at the right time resulting in a dead miss under light throttle. I put in the NGK and immediately the miss and jerk and pop in the exhaust was gone and has not come back under any throttle or load conditions. WORD to the wise, use NGKs in your max, period. I swapped a new coil to each cyl, no change. Listened to the injectors with a long piece of wood (works better than a screwdriver, more resonance) nothing wrong there. I drop in the plugs, and boom, done. Im a NGK believer with these cars.
Let me get this straight,your Honda has 1.5 litres, where as my bottle of MT. Dew has 2?
OK I have a 96 gxe I got a good deal on it cause the owner could not find the cause of a bad misfire that comes and goes. He had swapped coil packs one at a time with a new one, checked codes, ruled out fuel pressure (48), and fuel pump. He checked everything he could think of and he was a mechanic. I bought it brought it honme and retraced everything and redid it all. Turns out it was the spark plugs. It had autolite double platinum in it, i threw those out and dropped in some NGK VPOWERs. Instantly the miss was gone, and shes running smooth as silk with over 220,000 miles. I spent all night reading most all of the posts here on this subject. The bottom line is this. My cause had a TERRIBLE miss at idle, and while cruising under light throttle, but if you get down in it it smoothed out until the rpms dropped below about 2000 at highway speed. The plugs werent in bad shape, but it seems the resistance is too much to pass through the plug at the right time resulting in a dead miss under light throttle. I put in the NGK and immediately the miss and jerk and pop in the exhaust was gone and has not come back under any throttle or load conditions. WORD to the wise, use NGKs in your max, period. I swapped a new coil to each cyl, no change. Listened to the injectors with a long piece of wood (works better than a screwdriver, more resonance) nothing wrong there. I drop in the plugs, and boom, done. Im a NGK believer with these cars.
Let me get this straight,your Honda has 1.5 litres, where as my bottle of MT. Dew has 2?
08-10-2009, 09:33 PM
#30
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 222
my car has low speed vibration, similar to yours, I posted a thread here, with people's help, the problem is narrowed down to coils. But I haven't got a chance to test the coils. I'll put a follow up when I have it fixed and share with you
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