Bad Alternator?
04-05-2009, 08:32 PM
#1
Bad Alternator?
I've never had an alternator fail on me so I'm not sure of the symptoms of a bad alternator (which is partially functioning).
My maxima has been having issues idling. The RPM's jump from 400 to 600 until eventually it'll die.
Now, I DID have a misfire on Cyl. 1. I replaced all the coilpacks (my car is a 99) with used ones that looked to be in good condition from a 96. Car was okay for about 2 weeks. I get a P1320 code now which COULD be a coil pack. I have another set of 6 coming from a 98 Maxima. But I'm really starting to think it's not my coil packs.
Car operates fine under any load. Driveability would be affected if it was a coilpack/misfire.
What are the symptoms of a bad alternator? or do you guys think I'm off base thinking it's my alternator that is not keeping the car running for long while idling.
My Maxima is a 99 SE with 78k. Original alternator, 2nd battery. 96 set of coilpacks. New spark plugs.
My maxima has been having issues idling. The RPM's jump from 400 to 600 until eventually it'll die.
Now, I DID have a misfire on Cyl. 1. I replaced all the coilpacks (my car is a 99) with used ones that looked to be in good condition from a 96. Car was okay for about 2 weeks. I get a P1320 code now which COULD be a coil pack. I have another set of 6 coming from a 98 Maxima. But I'm really starting to think it's not my coil packs.
Car operates fine under any load. Driveability would be affected if it was a coilpack/misfire.
What are the symptoms of a bad alternator? or do you guys think I'm off base thinking it's my alternator that is not keeping the car running for long while idling.
My Maxima is a 99 SE with 78k. Original alternator, 2nd battery. 96 set of coilpacks. New spark plugs.
04-05-2009, 08:41 PM
#2
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 76
If you have a Volt meter have the car running and check the voltage at the battery terminals the voltage should be between 13-14 volts. If not, you need a new alternator.
That P1320 is most likey your problem. I would test the crankshaft position sensor.
That P1320 is most likey your problem. I would test the crankshaft position sensor.
Last edited by Carrera; 04-05-2009 at 08:44 PM.
04-05-2009, 09:12 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 76
Yep. headlights on, wipers on, ac on. I Honestly thing it has something to do with that sensor or something related to it. Good luck.
04-05-2009, 09:12 PM
#6
Okay, I'll have to test the voltage.
But is my train of thought even possible? If an alternator was on it's way out, would it affect me while driving? Or just while idling like I think it is.
Would a CPS throw a CPS related code?
Only code I have is P1320...which lists the CPS as one of the possible causes. But it also lists the conductor (or whatever) inside the coil pack.
But is my train of thought even possible? If an alternator was on it's way out, would it affect me while driving? Or just while idling like I think it is.
Would a CPS throw a CPS related code?
Only code I have is P1320...which lists the CPS as one of the possible causes. But it also lists the conductor (or whatever) inside the coil pack.
Last edited by IlyaK; 04-05-2009 at 09:15 PM.
04-05-2009, 09:16 PM
#7
Also, I should note that when I start my car, it idles fine for however many minutes. Once I drive it for a minute or two and idle, that's when it starts to fluctuate/stall out.
04-05-2009, 09:21 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockford, Michigan
Posts: 328
I would think that before you had any driveability issues because of your alternator, you would get a battery light and probably the brake light. The alternator not putting out the full 14 or so volts causes the light to come on and usually the brake light to come on. Not really an issue with the breaks obviously.
But yeah, just test the voltage.
But yeah, just test the voltage.
04-05-2009, 09:39 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 655
The battery properly charged should keep the car running even when the alternator goes out. Starting takes much more power so if the car starts, you have enough juice to run.
If CPS is going out you should get other codes. Check all the coil packs and make sure they get 12V (red) and GND (black) with ignition key in on position but engine not running. Can you smell unburn gas in the exhaust?
Do you have a scope to see if the signals from ECM to coil packs are ok?
Could the EGR valve be leaking? It should be off while idling.
If CPS is going out you should get other codes. Check all the coil packs and make sure they get 12V (red) and GND (black) with ignition key in on position but engine not running. Can you smell unburn gas in the exhaust?
Do you have a scope to see if the signals from ECM to coil packs are ok?
Could the EGR valve be leaking? It should be off while idling.
04-05-2009, 11:00 PM
#10
I am VERY bad with testing with a ohm meter. I tried testing my coils before I picked up the 96 set and couldn't get an accurate reading using the Haynes manual.
I don't have a scope.
There is no fuel smell. The battery light and brake light aren't on either.
I already have the 98 coils enroute. I think I'll just give those a try and see if it helps. They should be here tomorrow or tuesday. That's the easiest thing to do. I will report back.
I don't have a scope.
There is no fuel smell. The battery light and brake light aren't on either.
I already have the 98 coils enroute. I think I'll just give those a try and see if it helps. They should be here tomorrow or tuesday. That's the easiest thing to do. I will report back.
Last edited by IlyaK; 04-06-2009 at 05:41 AM.
04-06-2009, 06:45 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockford, Michigan
Posts: 328
Well if there is no batt or break light, your alternator can't be too bad...when mine came on it was only putting out around 12 volts. Then again, the first alternator I had completely died with no lights beforehand, just a terrible smell and a sudden death while I was in the middle of the road...lol
04-06-2009, 08:15 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 655
I am VERY bad with testing with a ohm meter. I tried testing my coils before I picked up the 96 set and couldn't get an accurate reading using the Haynes manual.
I don't have a scope.
There is no fuel smell. The battery light and brake light aren't on either.
I already have the 98 coils enroute. I think I'll just give those a try and see if it helps. They should be here tomorrow or tuesday. That's the easiest thing to do. I will report back.
I don't have a scope.
There is no fuel smell. The battery light and brake light aren't on either.
I already have the 98 coils enroute. I think I'll just give those a try and see if it helps. They should be here tomorrow or tuesday. That's the easiest thing to do. I will report back.
My scope is an old one they thrown out from work.
If there are no gas smell, EGR may be an issue. Review that section in the FSM.
04-06-2009, 10:04 AM
#15
So I just went out for lunch.
I am now pretty convinced I just got bad coil packs. I doubt it's the alternator. I'll have to try and test them but I had testing electronics. I can never get good readings. Multimeters are f'in confusing to me.
- Car doesn't always idle like crap at red lights
- At one point, I opened the throttle probably 65% and the car barely moved (as if the parking brake was on). And then all of a sudden it 'hooked' and drove like normal.
I am now pretty convinced I just got bad coil packs. I doubt it's the alternator. I'll have to try and test them but I had testing electronics. I can never get good readings. Multimeters are f'in confusing to me.
04-06-2009, 01:19 PM
#17
You can't really maintain coilpacks. When it comes to fluids, paint, etc. my car is pristine and on top of it's maintenance. For two years I didn't have a single issue. When I started messing with the engine is when **** started failing.
I'm pretty sure it's my coilpacks though. My 99's were bad (common problem). The 96's I got weren't any better evidently. Hopefully the 3rd set I pick up (98) will do the trick.
The only problem I have right now is coils.
I'm pretty sure it's my coilpacks though. My 99's were bad (common problem). The 96's I got weren't any better evidently. Hopefully the 3rd set I pick up (98) will do the trick.
The only problem I have right now is coils.
04-07-2009, 07:28 AM
#20
04-10-2009, 02:46 PM
#21
Well I just came in from outside. Took me all of 5 minutes to find my problem.
The two grounds at the front of the upper intake manifold on my car were VERY loose. I guess we didn't tighten them down good when we were de-00VI'ing my car. I cleaned them and tightened them down properly, ran and idled the car and everything was as it should be.
Hopefully, this is the last thing I have to fix for a long time. The rest of my car is 100% properly maintained and working.
The two grounds at the front of the upper intake manifold on my car were VERY loose. I guess we didn't tighten them down good when we were de-00VI'ing my car. I cleaned them and tightened them down properly, ran and idled the car and everything was as it should be.
Hopefully, this is the last thing I have to fix for a long time. The rest of my car is 100% properly maintained and working.
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