Car Stalling...Now Not Starting...
04-09-2009, 12:26 PM
#41
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 59
so.....i read your post and decided to get a new MAF sensor but before I did that, I wanted to double check my CEL codes. I checked them before and had a knock sensor and a O2 sensor code but wasnt sure on the other ones. So today I go to check the codes and I accidently reset the CEL light.
Immediatly after, my RPM's dropped to about 800 in park and in drive they were at 500 to 600 rpms.
I decided to drive it around and heat it up and I didnt have any issues. This is good news but i dont understand why all of a sudden it is ok.
Any one have any ideas? Nevermind. It ranwellfor a while but when i got on the highway, it went to craps. Still stalling. Still studdering.
Immediatly after, my RPM's dropped to about 800 in park and in drive they were at 500 to 600 rpms.
I decided to drive it around and heat it up and I didnt have any issues. This is good news but i dont understand why all of a sudden it is ok.
Any one have any ideas? Nevermind. It ranwellfor a while but when i got on the highway, it went to craps. Still stalling. Still studdering.
Last edited by kmb38; 04-09-2009 at 06:58 PM.
04-10-2009, 12:58 PM
#42
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 15
Cleaned MAF - So far, so good
I cleaned my MAF today with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner ($7 at Autozone). Definately had a film of oily residue on the screen, and it looked like some residue on the hot wire itself. Car ran beautifully after I cleaned with the spray, let it dry, and put it back together. I checked my idle with the procedure from the Factory Service Manual (pgs 33-35, where you get the car warmed up, turn off engine, unplug the TPS, then restart - rev - place in Neautral, rev, idle, and check ignition timing = 15 and idle = 650+/- 50). Last time I did that, I stalled constantly during the steps when the TPS was unplugged - I had to give throttle constantly to keep from stalling. Now, after cleaning the MAF, it never stalled.
The real test will be the next 1-2 weeks of driving. If I can make 150 miles of city driving without stalling, then I will know it is fixed.
Feeling good about this one. (Though I also felt good after cleaning the IACV, replacing the PCV, replacing the fuel filter, fixing the oil leak on the O2 sensor, fixing a broken breather hose, cleaning the throttle body, taking it to a mechanic, taking it to the Nissan dealer, etc etc .... darn intermittent problems).
Greg
The real test will be the next 1-2 weeks of driving. If I can make 150 miles of city driving without stalling, then I will know it is fixed.
Feeling good about this one. (Though I also felt good after cleaning the IACV, replacing the PCV, replacing the fuel filter, fixing the oil leak on the O2 sensor, fixing a broken breather hose, cleaning the throttle body, taking it to a mechanic, taking it to the Nissan dealer, etc etc .... darn intermittent problems).
Greg
04-10-2009, 02:21 PM
#43
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 10
I cleaned my MAF today with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner ($7 at Autozone). Definately had a film of oily residue on the screen, and it looked like some residue on the hot wire itself. Car ran beautifully after I cleaned with the spray, let it dry, and put it back together. I checked my idle with the procedure from the Factory Service Manual (pgs 33-35, where you get the car warmed up, turn off engine, unplug the TPS, then restart - rev - place in Neautral, rev, idle, and check ignition timing = 15 and idle = 650+/- 50). Last time I did that, I stalled constantly during the steps when the TPS was unplugged - I had to give throttle constantly to keep from stalling. Now, after cleaning the MAF, it never stalled.
The real test will be the next 1-2 weeks of driving. If I can make 150 miles of city driving without stalling, then I will know it is fixed.
Feeling good about this one. (Though I also felt good after cleaning the IACV, replacing the PCV, replacing the fuel filter, fixing the oil leak on the O2 sensor, fixing a broken breather hose, cleaning the throttle body, taking it to a mechanic, taking it to the Nissan dealer, etc etc .... darn intermittent problems).
Greg
The real test will be the next 1-2 weeks of driving. If I can make 150 miles of city driving without stalling, then I will know it is fixed.
Feeling good about this one. (Though I also felt good after cleaning the IACV, replacing the PCV, replacing the fuel filter, fixing the oil leak on the O2 sensor, fixing a broken breather hose, cleaning the throttle body, taking it to a mechanic, taking it to the Nissan dealer, etc etc .... darn intermittent problems).
Greg
so I had to get one from junk maxima
good luck
04-12-2009, 07:42 AM
#44
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 15
After cleaning the MAF sensor and then a quick burger with the boy, I went for Texas state inspection (expired in March). Failed on Catalyst not ready, EVAP not ready, O2 not ready. No trouble codes. After some more searching on the forum, it looks like I should have driven it a lot more before the inspection test - looks like the computer needs to meet certain driveability conditions before being completely clear and ready for inspection. I had recently been doing tests with TPS unplugged, coils unplugged, etc - so maybe that is it.
Still driving okay. I'll drive a week and then try inspection again.
Greg
Still driving okay. I'll drive a week and then try inspection again.
Greg
04-13-2009, 08:01 PM
#45
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 15
[groan] stalled again
The Maxima stalled again today and returned to rough idle. On the way home from the dentist, no less, to add insult to injury. Arrrggghhh! Crap Crap Crap Crap Crap.
I doubted my memory on plugs, (did I really buy NGK's, or did I cheap out with some Bosch plugs back in '04 ..._) so I just came inside from pulling them. Fair looking NGK PFR5G-11's just like I remember. I'll get new plugs tomorrow anyway after work tomorrow, just for good measure, but I doubt that was the problem.
Getting closer and closer to that eBay listing, start the bidding at $1, and see what happens. If I can't figure this out guys, that's where I'm going. I already have purchased another primary vehicle.
It's just one man's will versus the intermittent stall now ... (long past the point where I had the support of my wife ...)
I doubted my memory on plugs, (did I really buy NGK's, or did I cheap out with some Bosch plugs back in '04 ..._) so I just came inside from pulling them. Fair looking NGK PFR5G-11's just like I remember. I'll get new plugs tomorrow anyway after work tomorrow, just for good measure, but I doubt that was the problem.
Getting closer and closer to that eBay listing, start the bidding at $1, and see what happens. If I can't figure this out guys, that's where I'm going. I already have purchased another primary vehicle.
It's just one man's will versus the intermittent stall now ... (long past the point where I had the support of my wife ...)
04-21-2009, 05:35 PM
#46
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 15
ECTS was not it - stalled after replacement. Next I replaced spark plugs (new NGK coppers) and cleaned/tightened the ground screws a few weeks ago. Same story - drove great for a week or two, then stalled on me on the way home from work today in stop and go traffic.
Any more ideas? Anything I'm missing?
To summarize the story so far:
Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).
TRIED BUT NOT A SUCCESS:
(1) No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Had fuel system pressure checked at Baytown Nissan. Ran full pressure, no problems.
(15) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight.
(16) Cleaned MAF with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner. No difference.
(17) Replaced Spark plugs (NGK platinums with ~50k miles on them) with new NGK coppers. No difference.
(18) Cleaned grounding screws. No difference.
Help!
Any more ideas? Anything I'm missing?
To summarize the story so far:
Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).
TRIED BUT NOT A SUCCESS:
(1) No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Had fuel system pressure checked at Baytown Nissan. Ran full pressure, no problems.
(15) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight.
(16) Cleaned MAF with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner. No difference.
(17) Replaced Spark plugs (NGK platinums with ~50k miles on them) with new NGK coppers. No difference.
(18) Cleaned grounding screws. No difference.
Help!
07-01-2009, 12:11 PM
#47
I.m currently having similar issues wuth a P1400 code thrown, but with mine, I suspect that there are other causes at work, such as fuel starvation.
Awhile back, I did a dumb thing and poured brake fluid into my gas tank thinking it was fuel injector cleaner (the bottles are both blue and shaped the same).
I siphoned out as much of the gas/brake fluid mixture as I could. Yes, I know, I really need to get the tank fully drained. I recall someone saying that the fluid can eat away at fuel lines, roo.
Beyond that, can the gas tank be flushed to remove any brake fluid residue left over, and if so, how is that done?
I suspect that if some of the fluid got through the fuel lines the fuel filter is probably clogged and that is causing fuel starvation at start up -- except the problem is definitely worse when the engine is ciik than when hot.
I have not yet changed my fuel filter, but that is something I'm going to do tomorrow.
The EGR tube probably also needs to be cleaned and I'm going to have the entire EGR system checked for bad solenoid, sensors, pressure valves and hoses, etc..
Some time ago, I got a P400 code that went away on its own after I stopped using Hess gas and started using BP and a few bottles of actual fuel injector cleaner this time.
The fuel filter should have trapped the brake fluid from going into the engine, but that may mean the filter is clogged and preventing gas at start up.
The engine cranks, but it feels like no gas is making its way to the throttle, and what little did is running the engine with major sputtering. After a long 30-45 seconds, the car starts, but runs rough, loops(surges), almost dropping to zero. Once the engine warms up, the car runs fineBut, when I turn it off and let it sit for an hour, it goes through this process all over again.
What are the odds that some of the brake fluid made it past the filter, and then clogged an injector? If so, then why does the problem seem to go away when the engine is hot?
Stoping the engine and restarting it presents no problems when hot. When it is cold, it almost refuses to start at all and feels like previous cars I've owned whent the fuel pump started going bad.
Unfortunately, right now, I don't have the money to get it anything major fixed.
What are the odds that a P1400 code can be dropped as a result of a vacuum leak instead of a clogged or malfunctioning EGR solenoid?
I need some simple tests to run or some tips to do for diagnosing the problem after doing the simple things like changing the fuel filter, checking the spark plugs, checking that the injectors are working, etc.
Awhile back, I did a dumb thing and poured brake fluid into my gas tank thinking it was fuel injector cleaner (the bottles are both blue and shaped the same).
I siphoned out as much of the gas/brake fluid mixture as I could. Yes, I know, I really need to get the tank fully drained. I recall someone saying that the fluid can eat away at fuel lines, roo.
Beyond that, can the gas tank be flushed to remove any brake fluid residue left over, and if so, how is that done?
I suspect that if some of the fluid got through the fuel lines the fuel filter is probably clogged and that is causing fuel starvation at start up -- except the problem is definitely worse when the engine is ciik than when hot.
I have not yet changed my fuel filter, but that is something I'm going to do tomorrow.
The EGR tube probably also needs to be cleaned and I'm going to have the entire EGR system checked for bad solenoid, sensors, pressure valves and hoses, etc..
Some time ago, I got a P400 code that went away on its own after I stopped using Hess gas and started using BP and a few bottles of actual fuel injector cleaner this time.
The fuel filter should have trapped the brake fluid from going into the engine, but that may mean the filter is clogged and preventing gas at start up.
The engine cranks, but it feels like no gas is making its way to the throttle, and what little did is running the engine with major sputtering. After a long 30-45 seconds, the car starts, but runs rough, loops(surges), almost dropping to zero. Once the engine warms up, the car runs fineBut, when I turn it off and let it sit for an hour, it goes through this process all over again.
What are the odds that some of the brake fluid made it past the filter, and then clogged an injector? If so, then why does the problem seem to go away when the engine is hot?
Stoping the engine and restarting it presents no problems when hot. When it is cold, it almost refuses to start at all and feels like previous cars I've owned whent the fuel pump started going bad.
Unfortunately, right now, I don't have the money to get it anything major fixed.
What are the odds that a P1400 code can be dropped as a result of a vacuum leak instead of a clogged or malfunctioning EGR solenoid?
I need some simple tests to run or some tips to do for diagnosing the problem after doing the simple things like changing the fuel filter, checking the spark plugs, checking that the injectors are working, etc.
07-02-2009, 12:33 AM
#48
I dont know dude...filter is supposed to filter solid particles not liquids.. chances are it got through, and is now past your injectors. I mean brake fluid is thick but we're not talking general purpose grease thick.. time to put some seafoam in your gas time.
Back in 2007 I worked at an A/C and heating shop that flushed fuel tanks as well, from what I remember all they used was high pressure water but I could be wrong. I've never seen a Maxima tank off the car itself
Back in 2007 I worked at an A/C and heating shop that flushed fuel tanks as well, from what I remember all they used was high pressure water but I could be wrong. I've never seen a Maxima tank off the car itself
I.m currently having similar issues wuth a P1400 code thrown, but with mine, I suspect that there are other causes at work, such as fuel starvation.
Awhile back, I did a dumb thing and poured brake fluid into my gas tank thinking it was fuel injector cleaner (the bottles are both blue and shaped the same).
I siphoned out as much of the gas/brake fluid mixture as I could. Yes, I know, I really need to get the tank fully drained. I recall someone saying that the fluid can eat away at fuel lines, roo.
Beyond that, can the gas tank be flushed to remove any brake fluid residue left over, and if so, how is that done?
I suspect that if some of the fluid got through the fuel lines the fuel filter is probably clogged and that is causing fuel starvation at start up -- except the problem is definitely worse when the engine is ciik than when hot.
I have not yet changed my fuel filter, but that is something I'm going to do tomorrow.
The EGR tube probably also needs to be cleaned and I'm going to have the entire EGR system checked for bad solenoid, sensors, pressure valves and hoses, etc..
Some time ago, I got a P400 code that went away on its own after I stopped using Hess gas and started using BP and a few bottles of actual fuel injector cleaner this time.
The fuel filter should have trapped the brake fluid from going into the engine, but that may mean the filter is clogged and preventing gas at start up.
The engine cranks, but it feels like no gas is making its way to the throttle, and what little did is running the engine with major sputtering. After a long 30-45 seconds, the car starts, but runs rough, loops(surges), almost dropping to zero. Once the engine warms up, the car runs fineBut, when I turn it off and let it sit for an hour, it goes through this process all over again.
What are the odds that some of the brake fluid made it past the filter, and then clogged an injector? If so, then why does the problem seem to go away when the engine is hot?
Stoping the engine and restarting it presents no problems when hot. When it is cold, it almost refuses to start at all and feels like previous cars I've owned whent the fuel pump started going bad.
Unfortunately, right now, I don't have the money to get it anything major fixed.
What are the odds that a P1400 code can be dropped as a result of a vacuum leak instead of a clogged or malfunctioning EGR solenoid?
I need some simple tests to run or some tips to do for diagnosing the problem after doing the simple things like changing the fuel filter, checking the spark plugs, checking that the injectors are working, etc.
Awhile back, I did a dumb thing and poured brake fluid into my gas tank thinking it was fuel injector cleaner (the bottles are both blue and shaped the same).
I siphoned out as much of the gas/brake fluid mixture as I could. Yes, I know, I really need to get the tank fully drained. I recall someone saying that the fluid can eat away at fuel lines, roo.
Beyond that, can the gas tank be flushed to remove any brake fluid residue left over, and if so, how is that done?
I suspect that if some of the fluid got through the fuel lines the fuel filter is probably clogged and that is causing fuel starvation at start up -- except the problem is definitely worse when the engine is ciik than when hot.
I have not yet changed my fuel filter, but that is something I'm going to do tomorrow.
The EGR tube probably also needs to be cleaned and I'm going to have the entire EGR system checked for bad solenoid, sensors, pressure valves and hoses, etc..
Some time ago, I got a P400 code that went away on its own after I stopped using Hess gas and started using BP and a few bottles of actual fuel injector cleaner this time.
The fuel filter should have trapped the brake fluid from going into the engine, but that may mean the filter is clogged and preventing gas at start up.
The engine cranks, but it feels like no gas is making its way to the throttle, and what little did is running the engine with major sputtering. After a long 30-45 seconds, the car starts, but runs rough, loops(surges), almost dropping to zero. Once the engine warms up, the car runs fineBut, when I turn it off and let it sit for an hour, it goes through this process all over again.
What are the odds that some of the brake fluid made it past the filter, and then clogged an injector? If so, then why does the problem seem to go away when the engine is hot?
Stoping the engine and restarting it presents no problems when hot. When it is cold, it almost refuses to start at all and feels like previous cars I've owned whent the fuel pump started going bad.
Unfortunately, right now, I don't have the money to get it anything major fixed.
What are the odds that a P1400 code can be dropped as a result of a vacuum leak instead of a clogged or malfunctioning EGR solenoid?
I need some simple tests to run or some tips to do for diagnosing the problem after doing the simple things like changing the fuel filter, checking the spark plugs, checking that the injectors are working, etc.
07-07-2009, 10:50 PM
#51
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
my problems started after a trans job, slowly got worse, and worse, and worse.. got to the point i could have the gas pedal floored and the car would just buck on the highway doing 45, making me want to kick the windshield in.. very curious as to what the cause is now.. reading your post, makes me want to say either the maf sensor, or a really bad case of coil packs.. alot of time a bad coil pack will not throw a code, but you would only see the car re-act to it once the car warmed up.. have you tried the maf sensor? if you figure this out, i may actually try and fix this car again.. its just sitting here getting rained on.. let us know how you make out.. any info helps..
07-15-2009, 10:30 AM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 107
seems like a common problem. I've been forced to drive my VW for daily duties since I cant figure out wtf is wrong with my car either..same exact symptoms as gscaesar.
07-15-2009, 11:33 AM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 209
I had an intermittent stalling problem consistent with those mentioned in the thread. after much trouble pinpointing the problem it turned out to be the engine harness. the problem occurs where the harness bends down toward where it enters the firewall by the passenger side strut tower. while shaking or hitting the harness in that spot I was able to reproduce the problem. it didn't happen every time but often enough to know it was the problem. after trying to pinpoint the 1 of 100 wires that had the break I gave up and just re routed the harness slightly so that there were 2 softer bends in the harness instead of the one 90degree bend. so when it was flexed by engine movement less stress was put onto the harness. I never again had the problem. there is a FSB about it. and here it is.
http://www.lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A3...NTB98-008b.pdf
good luck
http://www.lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A3...NTB98-008b.pdf
good luck
07-17-2009, 04:21 AM
#54
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 18
I have the problem described here with intermittent stalling on my 96 Maxima GLE Automatic, 143k miles.
Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).
I have done the following with no success:
(1) Scanned for codes with my ScanGauge II - No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight. That was yesterday.
I've already bought a car to replace the Maxima as my primary vehicle, but have been trying to get the Maxima reliable to sell it. But I'm getting frustrated - about to list it on eBay, disclose the problem, and start the bidding at $1.
Greg
Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).
I have done the following with no success:
(1) Scanned for codes with my ScanGauge II - No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight. That was yesterday.
I've already bought a car to replace the Maxima as my primary vehicle, but have been trying to get the Maxima reliable to sell it. But I'm getting frustrated - about to list it on eBay, disclose the problem, and start the bidding at $1.
Greg
07-17-2009, 06:05 AM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 209
All of the problems seem to be accuring when the engine transfers weight(starting stopping accelerating braking). So I'm tellin you guys check that harness good. When the engine rocks while transfering weight it puts pressure on the harness where it bends. This coupled with heat causes tiny breaks on the wires inside the harness. And when the connection is broken the car studders idle drops and the car stalls. It's fairly comon.
07-18-2009, 10:35 AM
#56
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
same issues
i am having the exact same issues with the stalling and bogging out at lights...i used to be able to get thru the day by just cranking and cranking on the stalls but, the other day it stalled and wouldnt start and it killed the battery tryna get it to start...i left it where it was and got it the next day and it cranked up and got me home...i drove around the block and parked infront of my house and let it run in drive to see if i could reproduce the problem...it died...the problem seems worse as it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes on a idle...diagnosis read-P0100-P0115-P1335-P0325-P0125...from my understandings a lot of the stalling could be from a faulty MAF or engine coolant temp, and could this be triggering the other codes to show???i tried to test the MAF by unplugging and seeing if the idle smoothens...it actually makes it produce the same effect as when im at a light and it decides to start bogging...and when i plug it back in, the car dies out...Im wondering could it be that the MAF is working sometimes and sometimes its not(same thing as when i unplug it?)I have replaced the fuel pump,fuel pressure reg, air filter, new plugs, even a new starter(all the crankin killed my last one)please someone help me!!!!
07-23-2009, 03:36 AM
#57
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 18
bog master
i am having the exact same issues with the stalling and bogging out at lights...i used to be able to get thru the day by just cranking and cranking on the stalls but, the other day it stalled and wouldnt start and it killed the battery tryna get it to start...i left it where it was and got it the next day and it cranked up and got me home...i drove around the block and parked infront of my house and let it run in drive to see if i could reproduce the problem...it died...the problem seems worse as it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes on a idle...diagnosis read-P0100-P0115-P1335-P0325-P0125...from my understandings a lot of the stalling could be from a faulty MAF or engine coolant temp, and could this be triggering the other codes to show???i tried to test the MAF by unplugging and seeing if the idle smoothens...it actually makes it produce the same effect as when im at a light and it decides to start bogging...and when i plug it back in, the car dies out...Im wondering could it be that the MAF is working sometimes and sometimes its not(same thing as when i unplug it?)I have replaced the fuel pump,fuel pressure reg, air filter, new plugs, even a new starter(all the crankin killed my last one)please someone help me!!!!
try testing the front heated o2 sensor for resistance according to chilton repair manual. should be 2.3 to4.3 mine was in the 6 range, the new one was in 4.3. totally ran better but still stumbles at 40mph at 1500 to 2000 rpms. Im going to clean the maf. if that doesnt work im going to put in a used fuel pump. any suggestions?
07-23-2009, 03:54 AM
#58
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 18
bog
i am having the exact same issues with the stalling and bogging out at lights...i used to be able to get thru the day by just cranking and cranking on the stalls but, the other day it stalled and wouldnt start and it killed the battery tryna get it to start...i left it where it was and got it the next day and it cranked up and got me home...i drove around the block and parked infront of my house and let it run in drive to see if i could reproduce the problem...it died...the problem seems worse as it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes on a idle...diagnosis read-P0100-P0115-P1335-P0325-P0125...from my understandings a lot of the stalling could be from a faulty MAF or engine coolant temp, and could this be triggering the other codes to show???i tried to test the MAF by unplugging and seeing if the idle smoothens...it actually makes it produce the same effect as when im at a light and it decides to start bogging...and when i plug it back in, the car dies out...Im wondering could it be that the MAF is working sometimes and sometimes its not(same thing as when i unplug it?)I have replaced the fuel pump,fuel pressure reg, air filter, new plugs, even a new starter(all the crankin killed my last one)please someone help me!!!!
im going to test maf electronically according to chilton as well. if you dont have this manual you should get one. if its within specs im going to replace fuel pump. My car ran fine all day but it stumbles at 40 mph at 1500 to 2000 rpms, but not always. Ill get to the bottom of this and let you know. Ive cleaned the egr tube to the intake, cleaned the IACV, replaced front heated 02 sensor(this had the greatest improvement so far, the 02 sensor). keep in touch.
07-24-2009, 08:18 PM
#59
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 8
im going to test maf electronically according to chilton as well. if you dont have this manual you should get one. if its within specs im going to replace fuel pump. My car ran fine all day but it stumbles at 40 mph at 1500 to 2000 rpms, but not always. Ill get to the bottom of this and let you know. Ive cleaned the egr tube to the intake, cleaned the IACV, replaced front heated 02 sensor(this had the greatest improvement so far, the 02 sensor). keep in touch.
10-23-2009, 06:08 PM
#61
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Ga
Posts: 10
10-23-2009, 06:34 PM
#62
04-28-2011, 04:34 PM
#63
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Gwinnett, Georgia
Posts: 54
I'm going to go get a multimeter today and test the TPS because the car idles way to low and rpms is way to low while driving...When I turn on my system, Idle drops more but does not come back up when I turn down the bass, usually it does this. The more load I put on the car, the closer it gets to stalling....So on top of that, I'm going to jeck all wires and connections for power (i seriously doubt this is the issue)
That screw on the throttle body doesn't seem to do anything....
That screw on the throttle body doesn't seem to do anything....
The simplest problems can lead to the biggest issues sometimes
Last edited by Schulte; 04-28-2011 at 04:44 PM.
04-29-2011, 06:56 AM
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Next time you go up to Autozone or Advance, have them run an alternator test and a midtronics test on your battery and see if there is anything buggy about the two. Check your belts while you are looking at the alternator also, and make sure the air filter is clean and there are no major blockages. Just to be sure The simplest problems can lead to the biggest issues sometimes
The simplest problems can lead to the biggest issues sometimes U do realize this thread is a yr old and the guy is prolly long gone.
Post in the newbie thread if u want to get your posts count up.
Dont post ***** man
11-30-2011, 02:36 PM
#65
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
Harness repair solved issue, but Alternator busted .. is it possible?
I'm a newbie and thought this maybe a good place to post my issue. Over the last 6 mnths I've been having issues with my 1999 Maxima (180K miles) , the Air Bag and Seat Belt lights start flashing on and off and engine stalls and car does not start when these lights are flashing. Otherwise it runs fine, but this problem had become more frequent and worse, and finally couple of days ago stopped while I was driving. Over the course and recently I've changed the Alternator (2.5 yrs), Battery (4 mnths) and Starter (2 mnths)... so when I took it to Sears they told me it was an electrical issue since everything else checks out fine.
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too
. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should.
Please help with your inputs!!!
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too
. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should.Please help with your inputs!!!
11-30-2011, 03:09 PM
#66
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 209
1st..wrong place. this thread is old.
there is a newbie thread,check it out.
after reading your story,its safe to say that the work has already been done. right?
how did they determine it was the harness?
did they show u any proof at all?
lastly..how is the car running now?
there is a newbie thread,check it out.
after reading your story,its safe to say that the work has already been done. right?
how did they determine it was the harness?
did they show u any proof at all?
lastly..how is the car running now?
11-30-2011, 03:42 PM
#67
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
I saw the NOOBIE thread. Not sure how to use the NOOBIE thread, do I post this as a question as a Reply on that thread?
after reading your story,its safe to say that the work has already been done. right?
Its still in the shop I should have it back tomorrow. Harness repair is done, they said alternator needs to be ordered so will be fixed tomorrow.
how did they determine it was the harness?
They basically diagnosed it from the low voltage coming through the harness wiring, also I've read earlier posts on related so felt it was the right diagnosis. I had to drop the car off at the shop and he told me that was the issue, I did have an opportunity to see the fault source.
did they show u any proof at all?
Not really, I had to go with their word.
after reading your story,its safe to say that the work has already been done. right?
Its still in the shop I should have it back tomorrow. Harness repair is done, they said alternator needs to be ordered so will be fixed tomorrow.
how did they determine it was the harness?
They basically diagnosed it from the low voltage coming through the harness wiring, also I've read earlier posts on related so felt it was the right diagnosis. I had to drop the car off at the shop and he told me that was the issue, I did have an opportunity to see the fault source.
did they show u any proof at all?
Not really, I had to go with their word.
11-30-2011, 04:07 PM
#68
I'm a newbie and thought this maybe a good place to post my issue. Over the last 6 mnths I've been having issues with my 1999 Maxima (180K miles) , the Air Bag and Seat Belt lights start flashing on and off and engine stalls and car does not start when these lights are flashing. Otherwise it runs fine, but this problem had become more frequent and worse, and finally couple of days ago stopped while I was driving. Over the course and recently I've changed the Alternator (2.5 yrs), Battery (4 mnths) and Starter (2 mnths)... so when I took it to Sears they told me it was an electrical issue since everything else checks out fine.
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should.
Please help with your inputs!!!
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too
. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should.Please help with your inputs!!!
Next, a damaged power feed wire to the ECU (assuming damaged as in broken, worn through as is somewhat common enough for there to be a TSB about it) will still show almost full voltage at the ECU, it will just pass very little current, and would only really be visible testing under load.
Now when you say that the car won't start when they're flashing, does this mean that when you turn the key on, they start flashing immediately? When this happens, is it a no start or no crank?
If he can't explain why the alternator failed due to a 'damaged' wire going to the ECU (when the alternator has zero interaction with the ECU, only a single wire in the engine control harness going to the cluster), I would be quite suspect.
All that said, without you being able to do some of your own diagnostics to check the validity of his claims, you're out $800 and hoping it's fixed. The labor charge on fixing the engine control harness is ridiculous in my opinion, considering you can get good used parts for well under $100. Hell, I'll hand make you a brand new harness for $500.
I saw the NOOBIE thread. Not sure how to use the NOOBIE thread, do I post this as a question as a Reply on that thread?
after reading your story,its safe to say that the work has already been done. right?
Its still in the shop I should have it back tomorrow. Harness repair is done, they said alternator needs to be ordered so will be fixed tomorrow.
how did they determine it was the harness?
They basically diagnosed it from the low voltage coming through the harness wiring, also I've read earlier posts on related so felt it was the right diagnosis. I had to drop the car off at the shop and he told me that was the issue, I did have an opportunity to see the fault source.
did they show u any proof at all?
Not really, I had to go with their word.
after reading your story,its safe to say that the work has already been done. right?
Its still in the shop I should have it back tomorrow. Harness repair is done, they said alternator needs to be ordered so will be fixed tomorrow.
how did they determine it was the harness?
They basically diagnosed it from the low voltage coming through the harness wiring, also I've read earlier posts on related so felt it was the right diagnosis. I had to drop the car off at the shop and he told me that was the issue, I did have an opportunity to see the fault source.
did they show u any proof at all?
Not really, I had to go with their word.
12-01-2011, 06:41 AM
#69
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
@phmohr thanks, pls see my response to your q's.
"To start, the ECU has nothing to do with the seatbelts or airbags; they're all completely separate circuits, a fault in one will not trigger any of the other lights to come on. The only possible situation I can see where that would happen is if the engine stalled (before the lights came on), or if there was a charging system issue (low system voltage, but you'd also have other systems freaking out in that case)."
I believe it was the charging system issue but was told the failure was in the harness, I will clarify again later when I talk to the mechanic. So when lights flash and the car starts stalling several other systems don't work, the hazard light don't come on, radio goes off etc.
"Now when you say that the car won't start when they're flashing, does this mean that when you turn the key on, they start flashing immediately? When this happens, is it a no start or no crank?"
When the car does not start it does not flash. It usually does not start when I've had the flashing prior to turning off. So when I have the no-start issue, it appears to start (there is power) and crank a bit, but then after a bit I hear clicking sound and no cranking. But it starts if I jump it with another car and that seems to resolve the issue (so could be low voltage), but after driving for sometime the problem occurs.
"If he can't explain why the alternator failed due to a 'damaged' wire going to the ECU (when the alternator has zero interaction with the ECU, only a single wire in the engine control harness going to the cluster), I would be quite suspect."
I will check with him on this.
"All that said, without you being able to do some of your own diagnostics to check the validity of his claims, you're out $800 and hoping it's fixed. The labor charge on fixing the engine control harness is ridiculous in my opinion, considering you can get good used parts for well under $100. Hell, I'll hand make you a brand new harness for $500."
Reading some earlier posts I saw price of $100 for a junkyard harness and 4 hrs of labor, so felt ok about $500 to get it fixed given the other option, but maybe I would not have had the alternator issue. I guess I did pay too much.
"To start, the ECU has nothing to do with the seatbelts or airbags; they're all completely separate circuits, a fault in one will not trigger any of the other lights to come on. The only possible situation I can see where that would happen is if the engine stalled (before the lights came on), or if there was a charging system issue (low system voltage, but you'd also have other systems freaking out in that case)."
I believe it was the charging system issue but was told the failure was in the harness, I will clarify again later when I talk to the mechanic. So when lights flash and the car starts stalling several other systems don't work, the hazard light don't come on, radio goes off etc.
"Now when you say that the car won't start when they're flashing, does this mean that when you turn the key on, they start flashing immediately? When this happens, is it a no start or no crank?"
When the car does not start it does not flash. It usually does not start when I've had the flashing prior to turning off. So when I have the no-start issue, it appears to start (there is power) and crank a bit, but then after a bit I hear clicking sound and no cranking. But it starts if I jump it with another car and that seems to resolve the issue (so could be low voltage), but after driving for sometime the problem occurs.
"If he can't explain why the alternator failed due to a 'damaged' wire going to the ECU (when the alternator has zero interaction with the ECU, only a single wire in the engine control harness going to the cluster), I would be quite suspect."
I will check with him on this.
"All that said, without you being able to do some of your own diagnostics to check the validity of his claims, you're out $800 and hoping it's fixed. The labor charge on fixing the engine control harness is ridiculous in my opinion, considering you can get good used parts for well under $100. Hell, I'll hand make you a brand new harness for $500."
Reading some earlier posts I saw price of $100 for a junkyard harness and 4 hrs of labor, so felt ok about $500 to get it fixed given the other option, but maybe I would not have had the alternator issue. I guess I did pay too much.
02-24-2012, 06:39 PM
#70
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
1996 maxima stalls
I have a 1996 nissan maxima with a 1997 motor in it with 62,000 miles on it. It stalls at stop signs, lights or when i go slow around turns. I cleaned the IAC ,MAF sensor and evap purge . I also changed the evap fuel canister with a 1998 that had 100,000 on it they are different from 1997 til 1999 they were improved. Ne starter, new exhaust,new oil pressure switch, Oil change filter, K&NAIR filter, ngk platinum plugs. what could it be ? i have alot of time and money in it i love the car. some times it runs like it was brand new other times it is sluggish and has no *****.. Any input would help. thank you.....
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