Car Stalling...Now Not Starting...

[kmb38]

so.....i read your post and decided to get a new MAF sensor but before I did that, I wanted to double check my CEL codes. I checked them before and had a knock sensor and a O2 sensor code but wasnt sure on the other ones. So today I go to check the codes and I accidently reset the CEL light.
Immediatly after, my RPM's dropped to about 800 in park and in drive they were at 500 to 600 rpms.
I decided to drive it around and heat it up and I didnt have any issues. This is good news but i dont understand why all of a sudden it is ok.
Any one have any ideas? Nevermind. It ranwellfor a while but when i got on the highway, it went to craps. Still stalling. Still studdering.

[gscaesar]

I cleaned my MAF today with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner ($7 at Autozone). Definately had a film of oily residue on the screen, and it looked like some residue on the hot wire itself. Car ran beautifully after I cleaned with the spray, let it dry, and put it back together. I checked my idle with the procedure from the Factory Service Manual (pgs 33-35, where you get the car warmed up, turn off engine, unplug the TPS, then restart - rev - place in Neautral, rev, idle, and check ignition timing = 15 and idle = 650+/- 50). Last time I did that, I stalled constantly during the steps when the TPS was unplugged - I had to give throttle constantly to keep from stalling. Now, after cleaning the MAF, it never stalled.

The real test will be the next 1-2 weeks of driving. If I can make 150 miles of city driving without stalling, then I will know it is fixed.

Feeling good about this one. (Though I also felt good after cleaning the IACV, replacing the PCV, replacing the fuel filter, fixing the oil leak on the O2 sensor, fixing a broken breather hose, cleaning the throttle body, taking it to a mechanic, taking it to the Nissan dealer, etc etc .... darn intermittent problems).

Greg

[slaw]

Originally Posted by gscaesar

I cleaned my MAF today with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner ($7 at Autozone). Definately had a film of oily residue on the screen, and it looked like some residue on the hot wire itself. Car ran beautifully after I cleaned with the spray, let it dry, and put it back together. I checked my idle with the procedure from the Factory Service Manual (pgs 33-35, where you get the car warmed up, turn off engine, unplug the TPS, then restart - rev - place in Neautral, rev, idle, and check ignition timing = 15 and idle = 650+/- 50). Last time I did that, I stalled constantly during the steps when the TPS was unplugged - I had to give throttle constantly to keep from stalling. Now, after cleaning the MAF, it never stalled.

The real test will be the next 1-2 weeks of driving. If I can make 150 miles of city driving without stalling, then I will know it is fixed.

Feeling good about this one. (Though I also felt good after cleaning the IACV, replacing the PCV, replacing the fuel filter, fixing the oil leak on the O2 sensor, fixing a broken breather hose, cleaning the throttle body, taking it to a mechanic, taking it to the Nissan dealer, etc etc .... darn intermittent problems).

Greg

I wish you the best with maf sensor. looks like it is going to work, b/c in my case even after cleaning it few times I still could not get it to work correctly,
so I had to get one from junk maxima
good luck

[gscaesar]

After cleaning the MAF sensor and then a quick burger with the boy, I went for Texas state inspection (expired in March). Failed on Catalyst not ready, EVAP not ready, O2 not ready. No trouble codes. After some more searching on the forum, it looks like I should have driven it a lot more before the inspection test - looks like the computer needs to meet certain driveability conditions before being completely clear and ready for inspection. I had recently been doing tests with TPS unplugged, coils unplugged, etc - so maybe that is it.

Still driving okay. I'll drive a week and then try inspection again.

Greg

[gscaesar]

The Maxima stalled again today and returned to rough idle. On the way home from the dentist, no less, to add insult to injury. Arrrggghhh! Crap Crap Crap Crap Crap.

I doubted my memory on plugs, (did I really buy NGK's, or did I cheap out with some Bosch plugs back in '04 ..._) so I just came inside from pulling them. Fair looking NGK PFR5G-11's just like I remember. I'll get new plugs tomorrow anyway after work tomorrow, just for good measure, but I doubt that was the problem.

Getting closer and closer to that eBay listing, start the bidding at $1, and see what happens. If I can't figure this out guys, that's where I'm going. I already have purchased another primary vehicle.

It's just one man's will versus the intermittent stall now ... (long past the point where I had the support of my wife ...)

[gscaesar]

ECTS was not it - stalled after replacement. Next I replaced spark plugs (new NGK coppers) and cleaned/tightened the ground screws a few weeks ago. Same story - drove great for a week or two, then stalled on me on the way home from work today in stop and go traffic.

Any more ideas? Anything I'm missing?

To summarize the story so far:

Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).


TRIED BUT NOT A SUCCESS:
(1) No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Had fuel system pressure checked at Baytown Nissan. Ran full pressure, no problems.
(15) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight.
(16) Cleaned MAF with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner. No difference.
(17) Replaced Spark plugs (NGK platinums with ~50k miles on them) with new NGK coppers. No difference.
(18) Cleaned grounding screws. No difference.

Help!

[dr-rjp]

I.m currently having similar issues wuth a P1400 code thrown, but with mine, I suspect that there are other causes at work, such as fuel starvation.

Awhile back, I did a dumb thing and poured brake fluid into my gas tank thinking it was fuel injector cleaner (the bottles are both blue and shaped the same).

I siphoned out as much of the gas/brake fluid mixture as I could. Yes, I know, I really need to get the tank fully drained. I recall someone saying that the fluid can eat away at fuel lines, roo.

Beyond that, can the gas tank be flushed to remove any brake fluid residue left over, and if so, how is that done?

I suspect that if some of the fluid got through the fuel lines the fuel filter is probably clogged and that is causing fuel starvation at start up -- except the problem is definitely worse when the engine is ciik than when hot.

I have not yet changed my fuel filter, but that is something I'm going to do tomorrow.

The EGR tube probably also needs to be cleaned and I'm going to have the entire EGR system checked for bad solenoid, sensors, pressure valves and hoses, etc..

Some time ago, I got a P400 code that went away on its own after I stopped using Hess gas and started using BP and a few bottles of actual fuel injector cleaner this time.

The fuel filter should have trapped the brake fluid from going into the engine, but that may mean the filter is clogged and preventing gas at start up.

The engine cranks, but it feels like no gas is making its way to the throttle, and what little did is running the engine with major sputtering. After a long 30-45 seconds, the car starts, but runs rough, loops(surges), almost dropping to zero. Once the engine warms up, the car runs fineBut, when I turn it off and let it sit for an hour, it goes through this process all over again.

What are the odds that some of the brake fluid made it past the filter, and then clogged an injector? If so, then why does the problem seem to go away when the engine is hot?

Stoping the engine and restarting it presents no problems when hot. When it is cold, it almost refuses to start at all and feels like previous cars I've owned whent the fuel pump started going bad.

Unfortunately, right now, I don't have the money to get it anything major fixed.

What are the odds that a P1400 code can be dropped as a result of a vacuum leak instead of a clogged or malfunctioning EGR solenoid?

I need some simple tests to run or some tips to do for diagnosing the problem after doing the simple things like changing the fuel filter, checking the spark plugs, checking that the injectors are working, etc.

[ColombianMax]

I dont know dude...filter is supposed to filter solid particles not liquids.. chances are it got through, and is now past your injectors. I mean brake fluid is thick but we're not talking general purpose grease thick.. time to put some seafoam in your gas time.

Back in 2007 I worked at an A/C and heating shop that flushed fuel tanks as well, from what I remember all they used was high pressure water but I could be wrong. I've never seen a Maxima tank off the car itself

Originally Posted by dr-rjp

I.m currently having similar issues wuth a P1400 code thrown, but with mine, I suspect that there are other causes at work, such as fuel starvation.

Awhile back, I did a dumb thing and poured brake fluid into my gas tank thinking it was fuel injector cleaner (the bottles are both blue and shaped the same).

I siphoned out as much of the gas/brake fluid mixture as I could. Yes, I know, I really need to get the tank fully drained. I recall someone saying that the fluid can eat away at fuel lines, roo.

Beyond that, can the gas tank be flushed to remove any brake fluid residue left over, and if so, how is that done?

I suspect that if some of the fluid got through the fuel lines the fuel filter is probably clogged and that is causing fuel starvation at start up -- except the problem is definitely worse when the engine is ciik than when hot.

I have not yet changed my fuel filter, but that is something I'm going to do tomorrow.

The EGR tube probably also needs to be cleaned and I'm going to have the entire EGR system checked for bad solenoid, sensors, pressure valves and hoses, etc..

Some time ago, I got a P400 code that went away on its own after I stopped using Hess gas and started using BP and a few bottles of actual fuel injector cleaner this time.

The fuel filter should have trapped the brake fluid from going into the engine, but that may mean the filter is clogged and preventing gas at start up.

The engine cranks, but it feels like no gas is making its way to the throttle, and what little did is running the engine with major sputtering. After a long 30-45 seconds, the car starts, but runs rough, loops(surges), almost dropping to zero. Once the engine warms up, the car runs fineBut, when I turn it off and let it sit for an hour, it goes through this process all over again.

What are the odds that some of the brake fluid made it past the filter, and then clogged an injector? If so, then why does the problem seem to go away when the engine is hot?

Stoping the engine and restarting it presents no problems when hot. When it is cold, it almost refuses to start at all and feels like previous cars I've owned whent the fuel pump started going bad.

Unfortunately, right now, I don't have the money to get it anything major fixed.

What are the odds that a P1400 code can be dropped as a result of a vacuum leak instead of a clogged or malfunctioning EGR solenoid?

I need some simple tests to run or some tips to do for diagnosing the problem after doing the simple things like changing the fuel filter, checking the spark plugs, checking that the injectors are working, etc.

[96WhiteMaxima]

My alternator belt busted this weekend and my car was doing the EXACT same thing since the battery was so dead. I would assume you have checked if you still have a belt after trying so many things right?

[The Headlight Guy]

any updates? i had the exact same problems.. gave up on the car, now driving my f350.. max been sitting in the driveway for almost a year now.. nobody could tell me what was wrong..

[The Headlight Guy]

my problems started after a trans job, slowly got worse, and worse, and worse.. got to the point i could have the gas pedal floored and the car would just buck on the highway doing 45, making me want to kick the windshield in.. very curious as to what the cause is now.. reading your post, makes me want to say either the maf sensor, or a really bad case of coil packs.. alot of time a bad coil pack will not throw a code, but you would only see the car re-act to it once the car warmed up.. have you tried the maf sensor? if you figure this out, i may actually try and fix this car again.. its just sitting here getting rained on.. let us know how you make out.. any info helps..

[96SE NUH?]

Originally Posted by The Headlight Guy

any updates? i had the exact same problems.. gave up on the car, now driving my f350.. max been sitting in the driveway for almost a year now.. nobody could tell me what was wrong..

seems like a common problem. I've been forced to drive my VW for daily duties since I cant figure out wtf is wrong with my car either..same exact symptoms as gscaesar.

[j2b4osan]

I had an intermittent stalling problem consistent with those mentioned in the thread. after much trouble pinpointing the problem it turned out to be the engine harness. the problem occurs where the harness bends down toward where it enters the firewall by the passenger side strut tower. while shaking or hitting the harness in that spot I was able to reproduce the problem. it didn't happen every time but often enough to know it was the problem. after trying to pinpoint the 1 of 100 wires that had the break I gave up and just re routed the harness slightly so that there were 2 softer bends in the harness instead of the one 90degree bend. so when it was flexed by engine movement less stress was put onto the harness. I never again had the problem. there is a FSB about it. and here it is.

http://www.lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A3...NTB98-008b.pdf

good luck

[e-man69]

Originally Posted by gscaesar

I have the problem described here with intermittent stalling on my 96 Maxima GLE Automatic, 143k miles.

Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).


I have done the following with no success:
(1) Scanned for codes with my ScanGauge II - No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight. That was yesterday.

I've already bought a car to replace the Maxima as my primary vehicle, but have been trying to get the Maxima reliable to sell it. But I'm getting frustrated - about to list it on eBay, disclose the problem, and start the bidding at $1.

Greg

I have the excact problem with my 96. Cleaned the egr tube to the intake and replaced the egr first. then cleaned the IACV. had a code for the front heated 02 sensor replaced that and ran a lot better, actually perfect for a day. then stalling at stops and poor acceleration. not nearly as bad as before but not acceptable. leaning towards fuel pump, as it stumbles with the brake on (under load) in drive or reverse with a little gas to it. It also falls on its face after going 55-60, decelerating and trying to accelerate at 1500 to 2000 rps at 0-30 mph. Also there is a fuel pump control module, after running it for an hour on the road i felt the module and it was extremely hot, could this be from the pump working too hard, like its on its way out? Any input is appreciated.

[j2b4osan]

All of the problems seem to be accuring when the engine transfers weight(starting stopping accelerating braking). So I'm tellin you guys check that harness good. When the engine rocks while transfering weight it puts pressure on the harness where it bends. This coupled with heat causes tiny breaks on the wires inside the harness. And when the connection is broken the car studders idle drops and the car stalls. It's fairly comon.

[bassterdSD]

i am having the exact same issues with the stalling and bogging out at lights...i used to be able to get thru the day by just cranking and cranking on the stalls but, the other day it stalled and wouldnt start and it killed the battery tryna get it to start...i left it where it was and got it the next day and it cranked up and got me home...i drove around the block and parked infront of my house and let it run in drive to see if i could reproduce the problem...it died...the problem seems worse as it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes on a idle...diagnosis read-P0100-P0115-P1335-P0325-P0125...from my understandings a lot of the stalling could be from a faulty MAF or engine coolant temp, and could this be triggering the other codes to show???i tried to test the MAF by unplugging and seeing if the idle smoothens...it actually makes it produce the same effect as when im at a light and it decides to start bogging...and when i plug it back in, the car dies out...Im wondering could it be that the MAF is working sometimes and sometimes its not(same thing as when i unplug it?)I have replaced the fuel pump,fuel pressure reg, air filter, new plugs, even a new starter(all the crankin killed my last one)please someone help me!!!!

[e-man69]

Originally Posted by bassterdSD

i am having the exact same issues with the stalling and bogging out at lights...i used to be able to get thru the day by just cranking and cranking on the stalls but, the other day it stalled and wouldnt start and it killed the battery tryna get it to start...i left it where it was and got it the next day and it cranked up and got me home...i drove around the block and parked infront of my house and let it run in drive to see if i could reproduce the problem...it died...the problem seems worse as it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes on a idle...diagnosis read-P0100-P0115-P1335-P0325-P0125...from my understandings a lot of the stalling could be from a faulty MAF or engine coolant temp, and could this be triggering the other codes to show???i tried to test the MAF by unplugging and seeing if the idle smoothens...it actually makes it produce the same effect as when im at a light and it decides to start bogging...and when i plug it back in, the car dies out...Im wondering could it be that the MAF is working sometimes and sometimes its not(same thing as when i unplug it?)I have replaced the fuel pump,fuel pressure reg, air filter, new plugs, even a new starter(all the crankin killed my last one)please someone help me!!!!

try testing the front heated o2 sensor for resistance according to chilton repair manual. should be 2.3 to4.3 mine was in the 6 range, the new one was in 4.3. totally ran better but still stumbles at 40mph at 1500 to 2000 rpms. Im going to clean the maf. if that doesnt work im going to put in a used fuel pump. any suggestions?

[e-man69]

Originally Posted by bassterdSD

i am having the exact same issues with the stalling and bogging out at lights...i used to be able to get thru the day by just cranking and cranking on the stalls but, the other day it stalled and wouldnt start and it killed the battery tryna get it to start...i left it where it was and got it the next day and it cranked up and got me home...i drove around the block and parked infront of my house and let it run in drive to see if i could reproduce the problem...it died...the problem seems worse as it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes on a idle...diagnosis read-P0100-P0115-P1335-P0325-P0125...from my understandings a lot of the stalling could be from a faulty MAF or engine coolant temp, and could this be triggering the other codes to show???i tried to test the MAF by unplugging and seeing if the idle smoothens...it actually makes it produce the same effect as when im at a light and it decides to start bogging...and when i plug it back in, the car dies out...Im wondering could it be that the MAF is working sometimes and sometimes its not(same thing as when i unplug it?)I have replaced the fuel pump,fuel pressure reg, air filter, new plugs, even a new starter(all the crankin killed my last one)please someone help me!!!!

im going to test maf electronically according to chilton as well. if you dont have this manual you should get one. if its within specs im going to replace fuel pump. My car ran fine all day but it stumbles at 40 mph at 1500 to 2000 rpms, but not always. Ill get to the bottom of this and let you know. Ive cleaned the egr tube to the intake, cleaned the IACV, replaced front heated 02 sensor(this had the greatest improvement so far, the 02 sensor). keep in touch.

[bassterdSD]

Originally Posted by e-man69

im going to test maf electronically according to chilton as well. if you dont have this manual you should get one. if its within specs im going to replace fuel pump. My car ran fine all day but it stumbles at 40 mph at 1500 to 2000 rpms, but not always. Ill get to the bottom of this and let you know. Ive cleaned the egr tube to the intake, cleaned the IACV, replaced front heated 02 sensor(this had the greatest improvement so far, the 02 sensor). keep in touch.

i just cant figure it out...now , after i had reset the codes, i drove around all day without any stalling...go to the store and come back out and try to start the car and it wont start...cranked and cranked till it started and it thru the codes p0325,p1335,p0335,p0125...is the crankshaft code a pain to fix?could anything else be causing this code??does p0125 mean the thermostat is stickin???hELP ...im about to sale this problem to someone else if i cant resolve it

[phenryiv1]

Fixded.

Thanks for the heads-up.

[♥cece*oaks♥]

Originally Posted by shyheim07

Oh I know. What I meant on location was the EGR solinoid .

is this black one it?

WHAT IS THE HOSE THAT IS RUNNING FROM THE TOP LEFT OF THIS PICTURE TO THE BOTTOM MIDDLE OF THE PICTURE, RIGHT NEAR THE RED THING? I BROKE IT AND NEED TO REPLACE IT!!! PLEASE MESSAGE ME!

[pmohr]

Originally Posted by ♥cece*oaks♥

WHAT IS THE HOSE THAT IS RUNNING FROM THE TOP LEFT OF THIS PICTURE TO THE BOTTOM MIDDLE OF THE PICTURE, RIGHT NEAR THE RED THING? I BROKE IT AND NEED TO REPLACE IT!!! PLEASE MESSAGE ME!

It's a vacuum hose. How did you 'break' it? Did it rip?