leaking steering rack. ideas for fixing?
01-15-2009, 10:10 PM
#1
leaking steering rack. ideas for fixing?
I have had a very VERY slow leak since I've had the car. Some time ago I lost all of the fluid from the reservoir in like a day. I filled it up again and the level didn't change until today. I got out of work and as I went to the car I saw oil running down on the ground under my car. I popped the hood and.... well I was a little low on fluid. It wasn't all the way down like the last time but it was about an inch down. I was at the dealer for something else last month and they told me it was leaking (I knew that already).
What should I do? It does need replacing for sure, but which way should I go?
I did a search and found a nice write up from Kevlo (I think). My problem is that since I don't have where to do the fix I will have to take it to a shop.
Which rack to get? I read about Power Steering Pros and their racks. I also found that a 99 SE would be a better choice. Should I go for that kind of rack? What else will have to be changed when changing the rack (hoses, seals, bushings etc.)?
What should I do? It does need replacing for sure, but which way should I go?
I did a search and found a nice write up from Kevlo (I think). My problem is that since I don't have where to do the fix I will have to take it to a shop.
Which rack to get? I read about Power Steering Pros and their racks. I also found that a 99 SE would be a better choice. Should I go for that kind of rack? What else will have to be changed when changing the rack (hoses, seals, bushings etc.)?
01-15-2009, 11:03 PM
#2
If you change out the rack (are you even sure that the rack is what's leaking?) you should do the rack bushings at the same time, as well as any PS hoses that don't look all that great. Especially the suction hose, that likes to leak.
01-15-2009, 11:22 PM
#3
Before you order any parts. The line that goes into the rack, tighten the clamp on it. I had a leak on mine, it never dripped on the ground, but the rack and m control arm use to get wet. When i did my motor i had easy access to it, the clamp was not very tight, since then it has pretty much stopped leaking. Its not common, but its also not uncommon.
Its also very possible that one of the lines ruptured or split.
I think the 97+ SE's and I30s have speed sensitive racks
Its also very possible that one of the lines ruptured or split.
I think the 97+ SE's and I30s have speed sensitive racks
01-15-2009, 11:28 PM
#4
I am almost positive that it's the rack that is leaking. I will have to double check that. I will look for that clamp too.
The leak was from the drivers side BTW.
couple of other things. My steering is very loose feels like. It is very road sensitive in a way that on the lowest slope the wheel turns in the direction of the slope so I have to correct. Also my turning radius is horrible. My friend with the 98 GXE has better steering and he can make a U turn in less space.
The leak was from the drivers side BTW.
couple of other things. My steering is very loose feels like. It is very road sensitive in a way that on the lowest slope the wheel turns in the direction of the slope so I have to correct. Also my turning radius is horrible. My friend with the 98 GXE has better steering and he can make a U turn in less space.
Last edited by djipka; 01-15-2009 at 11:31 PM.
01-15-2009, 11:40 PM
#5
Well, that line goes into the rack, so it will be on the drivers side. I cant remember which one it is that leaks, but tighten both. I dont know why they were so loose, perhaps undertorqued from the factory. Considering the pressure on some of those lines though, a small split would cause it to absolutely pour.
The turning radius thing, i do not see being effected by the steering rack itself. Perhaps your steering bumpstops need to be adjusted..be careful with that though.
Perhaps you have an alignment issues? Are you lowered, has your car been in any front end accidents?
The turning radius thing, i do not see being effected by the steering rack itself. Perhaps your steering bumpstops need to be adjusted..be careful with that though.
Perhaps you have an alignment issues? Are you lowered, has your car been in any front end accidents?
01-15-2009, 11:55 PM
#6
alignment is good, it was done less than a year ago when I got new tires. I'm not lowered. No accidents.
the big question in my mind is where did all the fluid go last time it leaked, and how come there wasn't any leak for almost a month? Because of that leak last month I have been checking my level every other day. So I know that the level didn't move at all, or if it did it was so little that I couldn't see it.
the big question in my mind is where did all the fluid go last time it leaked, and how come there wasn't any leak for almost a month? Because of that leak last month I have been checking my level every other day. So I know that the level didn't move at all, or if it did it was so little that I couldn't see it.
01-16-2009, 12:00 AM
#7
alignment is good, it was done less than a year ago when I got new tires. I'm not lowered. No accidents.
the big question in my mind is where did all the fluid go last time it leaked, and how come there wasn't any leak for almost a month? Because of that leak last month I have been checking my level every other day. So I know that the level didn't move at all, or if it did it was so little that I couldn't see it.
the big question in my mind is where did all the fluid go last time it leaked, and how come there wasn't any leak for almost a month? Because of that leak last month I have been checking my level every other day. So I know that the level didn't move at all, or if it did it was so little that I couldn't see it.
Well, with the naked eye, you only notice the fluid is low, when the resoivor is empty, and it doesnt hold much. It probably only leaks when you turn the wheel, when more pressure is apparent. Crank your wheel to the right, get a flashlight and see if you can see the rack. Its mounted on the firewall. If it looks soaked, and part of your control arm is wet, then it is leaking, and you probably dont notice it. It takes quite a bit to actually leak on the ground, just whre its mounted, it has to leak onto a bunch of things first, where as an engine oil leak, just runs straight down onto the ground.
01-16-2009, 12:05 AM
#8
it's too late now and I am going to bed. Tomorrow I will find me a nice spot somewhere and I will do that check. I may even get my friend to help me. It may be better to have one in the car turning the wheel and the other looking under the hood/car to see if we can spot the leak.
thanks a bunch for the responses so far!
thanks a bunch for the responses so far!
01-16-2009, 09:26 PM
#9
here is what I did today.
First of all in the morning there wasn't a single drop on the ground under the car. I went to school and there with my friend we checked where the leak is coming from. All the hoses were perfectly dry. I had him turn the wheel as I was looking under the hood. Even at a high load with him holding the wheel at the end position in each direction I couldn't see any leaking. The LCA was wet though. It looked like it was fresh wet too.
after work though there were two not very big spots, may be 2 inches in diameter, under the car. they were exactly under each end of the rack. The level of the fluid has not changed though.
So the mystery is this: sometimes it just drips and other times it leaks bad.
Also I have been having a bad oil type smell when I run my heater for the last about 10 days. I think now I know what the source of that smell is.
First of all in the morning there wasn't a single drop on the ground under the car. I went to school and there with my friend we checked where the leak is coming from. All the hoses were perfectly dry. I had him turn the wheel as I was looking under the hood. Even at a high load with him holding the wheel at the end position in each direction I couldn't see any leaking. The LCA was wet though. It looked like it was fresh wet too.
after work though there were two not very big spots, may be 2 inches in diameter, under the car. they were exactly under each end of the rack. The level of the fluid has not changed though.
So the mystery is this: sometimes it just drips and other times it leaks bad.
Also I have been having a bad oil type smell when I run my heater for the last about 10 days. I think now I know what the source of that smell is.
01-16-2009, 09:29 PM
#10
here is what I did today.
First of all in the morning there wasn't a single drop on the ground under the car. I went to school and there with my friend we checked where the leak is coming from. All the hoses were perfectly dry. I had him turn the wheel as I was looking under the hood. Even at a high load with him holding the wheel at the end position in each direction I couldn't see any leaking. The LCA was wet though. It looked like it was fresh wet too.
after work though there were two not very big spots, may be 2 inches in diameter, under the car. they were exactly under each end of the rack. The level of the fluid has not changed though.
So the mystery is this: sometimes it just drips and other times it leaks bad.
Also I have been having a bad oil type smell when I run my heater for the last about 10 days. I think now I know what the source of that smell is.
First of all in the morning there wasn't a single drop on the ground under the car. I went to school and there with my friend we checked where the leak is coming from. All the hoses were perfectly dry. I had him turn the wheel as I was looking under the hood. Even at a high load with him holding the wheel at the end position in each direction I couldn't see any leaking. The LCA was wet though. It looked like it was fresh wet too.
after work though there were two not very big spots, may be 2 inches in diameter, under the car. they were exactly under each end of the rack. The level of the fluid has not changed though.
So the mystery is this: sometimes it just drips and other times it leaks bad.
Also I have been having a bad oil type smell when I run my heater for the last about 10 days. I think now I know what the source of that smell is.
01-16-2009, 09:52 PM
#11
i think i will either go the easiest way with AutoZone type rebuilt one or if I have the time and patience I will get one of the 99 SE ones from PowerSteering Pros.
The 99 SE will fit with no need for other modifications, right?
The 99 SE will fit with no need for other modifications, right?
01-16-2009, 10:00 PM
#12
Correct, no mods. However, I believe aftermarket companies just make one rack that's the same for all A32s, the only difference you'll notice is with an OE 99 SE rack. That's speculation though, I haven't even seen any definitive proof that it's different.
01-16-2009, 10:03 PM
#13
well there was a thread here somewhere that someone used one of the ones from Power steering pros and he claims that it felt better. I think what they are offering is a rebuilt 99 SE rack.
If I am lucky there was a salvage yard here that had a 99 SE with a good rack on it still. I will have to check and see if it's still there and what they want for it.
how much am I looking at for labor? or in other words how long does it take for it to be changed? I can do the math if I know the time.
If I am lucky there was a salvage yard here that had a 99 SE with a good rack on it still. I will have to check and see if it's still there and what they want for it.
how much am I looking at for labor? or in other words how long does it take for it to be changed? I can do the math if I know the time.
01-16-2009, 10:08 PM
#14
well there was a thread here somewhere that someone used one of the ones from Power steering pros and he claims that it felt better. I think what they are offering is a rebuilt 99 SE rack.
If I am lucky there was a salvage yard here that had a 99 SE with a good rack on it still. I will have to check and see if it's still there and what they want for it.
how much am I looking at for labor? or in other words how long does it take for it to be changed? I can do the math if I know the time.
If I am lucky there was a salvage yard here that had a 99 SE with a good rack on it still. I will have to check and see if it's still there and what they want for it.
how much am I looking at for labor? or in other words how long does it take for it to be changed? I can do the math if I know the time.
R&R complete assembly (i.e. entire rack with inner and outer tie rods, bellows, everything already in place) is 4.8 book, plus you'll want an alignment.
01-16-2009, 10:11 PM
#15
01-16-2009, 10:13 PM
#16
01-16-2009, 10:16 PM
#17
01-17-2009, 09:28 AM
#18
I haven't driven a 99 extensively but I know for sure a 98 SE rack feels more responsive and has a firmer overall feel than 95-96 GLE/GXE or SE racks. I really don't believe the 99 is different from the 98, and I'm willing to bet a 97 rack is also updated.
I also reckon the rebuilt racks cover all 4th gens. This means you could end up with any year rack rebuilt to their specs.
I also reckon the rebuilt racks cover all 4th gens. This means you could end up with any year rack rebuilt to their specs.
01-17-2009, 10:19 AM
#20
thanks for the clarification. I am on the phone with the dealer right now to see if they are different. he quoted me $1800 for parts and labor. $1200 for the rack. So I'll tell you right now I ain't getting a new rack from them. I will either get a rebuilt or one from the salvage yard.
I found a few racks on car-part.com that cost between 65-85. should I go for that? they have from 120 to 150k on them
Last edited by djipka; 01-17-2009 at 10:41 AM.
01-18-2009, 12:55 AM
#23
About getting stuff from the wreckors, ill tell ya a little story, back when i blew my first tranny, i was going to buy a new tranny from nissan, my cost was about 1300 with tax. I said no, not only did i not have 1300, i could get a tranny from the wreckors for 500. So i got that one installed, knocked me back 875$ installed with the clutch and all. That tranny lasted 8 months, it blew, i bought another tranny with apparently 13,000kms, paid 375$ for labour to put it in and a 1000 for the tranny, bam, that was toast from the get go, so on top of the 375 for install, i had to pay to get them to take it out again. Coudlnt find another tranny, so i tried to return this one, they screwed me, only gave me back 500$ after threatended them with court. Ended up getting the other one rebuilt, that knocked me back 1100, all said and done.
Basically what im getting at is, 1300 initially, or $3225 and not having a car for a very long time.
Be careful with wreckors, i got my new engine from a wreckor, partially tore it down before installing it, turned out good and its been good ever since *knocks on wood*. Luck of the draw i guess.
Id recommend either buying an aftermarket OEM, or getting your original one rebuilt!
Basically what im getting at is, 1300 initially, or $3225 and not having a car for a very long time.
Be careful with wreckors, i got my new engine from a wreckor, partially tore it down before installing it, turned out good and its been good ever since *knocks on wood*. Luck of the draw i guess.
Id recommend either buying an aftermarket OEM, or getting your original one rebuilt!
01-18-2009, 01:00 AM
#24
I don't know if there is a place to rebuild it around here (Salt Lake City, Utah). How long would it take to get it rebuilt? What if I just got a rebuilt one from AutoZone or something like that?
01-18-2009, 09:47 AM
#27
i would advice against getting a used rack from a junk yard unless it has very low miles (under 50k miles), the reason being is that swapping the rack is a PITA job, and having to do it twice in a short period of time because the used one fail is twice as bad; not to mention that the warranty might be out (if there is one in the first place) and you'll end up paying for another one and eating the initial cost for parts and labor.
01-18-2009, 10:21 AM
#28
i would advice against getting a used rack from a junk yard unless it has very low miles (under 50k miles), the reason being is that swapping the rack is a PITA job, and having to do it twice in a short period of time because the used one fail is twice as bad; not to mention that the warranty might be out (if there is one in the first place) and you'll end up paying for another one and eating the initial cost for parts and labor.
about the Auto-Rx. that stuff is good but I don't think it will do much in my situation. I am planning a second Auto-Rx treatment on the engine when the spring comes.
01-29-2009, 10:13 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 452
I have a 95SE and just did a rack swap about 2 months ago and use the 99SE rack from power steering pros. Rack was $265 + $12 for the return shipping label for core. I have been happy with the rack and notice a MUCH better ride. Like was said before - could be just a new rack or the 99SE is stiffer. But I would recommend using quality parts since the job was def a PITA. Do you have ABS - that makes it a lot worse?! I used kevlo's write up and the FSM with decent experience working on my car and it took about 15 hours, taking my time and trouble shooting small issues that came up along the way (3 days x 5 hours per day - but i basically replaced all the suspension parts as well).
What I recommend replacing along with this:
-Power steering bushings
-Sway-bar end links
-Check your motor mounts (my rear one was toast). Front was OK but since it's like $200+ to change it, I left it alone.
http://www.powersteeringpros.com/add.../80-00386.html
What I recommend replacing along with this:
-Power steering bushings
-Sway-bar end links
-Check your motor mounts (my rear one was toast). Front was OK but since it's like $200+ to change it, I left it alone.
http://www.powersteeringpros.com/add.../80-00386.html
01-30-2009, 07:07 AM
#33
I am almost positive that it's the rack that is leaking. I will have to double check that. I will look for that clamp too.
The leak was from the drivers side BTW.
couple of other things. My steering is very loose feels like. It is very road sensitive in a way that on the lowest slope the wheel turns in the direction of the slope so I have to correct. Also my turning radius is horrible. My friend with the 98 GXE has better steering and he can make a U turn in less space.
The leak was from the drivers side BTW.
couple of other things. My steering is very loose feels like. It is very road sensitive in a way that on the lowest slope the wheel turns in the direction of the slope so I have to correct. Also my turning radius is horrible. My friend with the 98 GXE has better steering and he can make a U turn in less space.
As someone already pointed out, the road sensitivity should only depend on your alignment. Too little toe-in will make it a bear to keep straight. The loose feeling is most likely the bushings on the rack mounts, I swapped these out a while back and the steering felt like a new car.
The turning radius can only be changed by setting the stops on the hub, no matter which rack you use.
I have a 95SE and just did a rack swap about 2 months ago and use the 99SE rack from power steering pros. Rack was $265 + $12 for the return shipping label for core. I have been happy with the rack and notice a MUCH better ride. Like was said before - could be just a new rack or the 99SE is stiffer. But I would recommend using quality parts since the job was def a PITA. Do you have ABS - that makes it a lot worse?! I used kevlo's write up and the FSM with decent experience working on my car and it took about 15 hours, taking my time and trouble shooting small issues that came up along the way (3 days x 5 hours per day - but i basically replaced all the suspension parts as well).
What I recommend replacing along with this:
-Power steering bushings
-Sway-bar end links
-Check your motor mounts (my rear one was toast). Front was OK but since it's like $200+ to change it, I left it alone.
http://www.powersteeringpros.com/add.../80-00386.html
What I recommend replacing along with this:
-Power steering bushings
-Sway-bar end links
-Check your motor mounts (my rear one was toast). Front was OK but since it's like $200+ to change it, I left it alone.
http://www.powersteeringpros.com/add.../80-00386.html
To the OP, I would be nervous about using a salvage rack, especially considering that most cars go to the junkyard after a wreck, so the rack could be seriously damaged, and you wouldn't know until AFTER you install it. If you have time and money, the best way to go would be a reman unit from autozone, etc for around $300; or autopartswarehouse has one for $200, but you'll pay shipping but no core. Here's the link for APW:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...VURP25408.html
Another alternative, IF you have time and not money, (and you don't mind being carless for a long weekend), would be to put fresh seals in the one you have. AZ has a kit for around $40, that would take care of it.
Whether rebuild or replace, replace the bushings and it will steer like a dream.
01-30-2009, 10:23 AM
#34
I have a feeling that i should swap my rack out as well (drifitng/toe-in problem that can't be solved with allignments), but i don't feel like spending all that money on it. I just want my car to last till the end of this summer without any major repair bills.
01-30-2009, 12:44 PM
#35
As someone already pointed out, the road sensitivity should only depend on your alignment. Too little toe-in will make it a bear to keep straight. The loose feeling is most likely the bushings on the rack mounts, I swapped these out a while back and the steering felt like a new car.
The turning radius can only be changed by setting the stops on the hub, no matter which rack you use.
+1 on above, when you have the rack out there are a lot of things that should be done. I might also suggest replacing or upgrading the sway bay mount bushings.
To the OP, I would be nervous about using a salvage rack, especially considering that most cars go to the junkyard after a wreck, so the rack could be seriously damaged, and you wouldn't know until AFTER you install it. If you have time and money, the best way to go would be a reman unit from autozone, etc for around $300; or autopartswarehouse has one for $200, but you'll pay shipping but no core. Here's the link for APW:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...VURP25408.html
Another alternative, IF you have time and not money, (and you don't mind being carless for a long weekend), would be to put fresh seals in the one you have. AZ has a kit for around $40, that would take care of it.
Whether rebuild or replace, replace the bushings and it will steer like a dream.
The turning radius can only be changed by setting the stops on the hub, no matter which rack you use.
+1 on above, when you have the rack out there are a lot of things that should be done. I might also suggest replacing or upgrading the sway bay mount bushings.
To the OP, I would be nervous about using a salvage rack, especially considering that most cars go to the junkyard after a wreck, so the rack could be seriously damaged, and you wouldn't know until AFTER you install it. If you have time and money, the best way to go would be a reman unit from autozone, etc for around $300; or autopartswarehouse has one for $200, but you'll pay shipping but no core. Here's the link for APW:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...VURP25408.html
Another alternative, IF you have time and not money, (and you don't mind being carless for a long weekend), would be to put fresh seals in the one you have. AZ has a kit for around $40, that would take care of it.
Whether rebuild or replace, replace the bushings and it will steer like a dream.
Sorry for the stupid question but what was toe and what was camber for the alignment? and how would that affect my feel?
I found a shop that will do my rack for $240 labor with my parts, which I decided on the powersteering pros, new bushings for Sway bar and rack, new sway bar links, new tie rod ends etc. all of those I think will be MOOG.
do you guys think I have made a good choice for labor and parts?
thanks for the input!
01-31-2009, 12:37 PM
#38
how hard is it to replace the sway bar end links by myself? I was thinking that if for some reason the guy at the shop wants more for that stuff I will have to do it myself to save money
01-31-2009, 12:38 PM
#39
Extremely easy, just make sure you have both front wheels off the ground when you do it, or it'll be a PITA.
01-31-2009, 10:51 PM
#40
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