dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

EGR solenoid valve, where do i get one besides the dealer? any help on this would be appreciated. car runs but like crap. i got that code out .thanks

knight71

I think this is a dealer item only..Nissan part # is 14956-31u10. Cost is about $60-$80. Check this thread for more info

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=350528

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info, would this CEL make it run like crap and kinda miss on acceleration?

heynow

iTrader: (1)

check for other codes

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

i have and fixed the other stuff but i keep getting a 1005 every time

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

i replaced the egr solenoid and it still runs like ****, wtf?

khantalha+

iTrader: (15)

how about this i found this on a different web page...

"Checking The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System injects a metered amount of exhaust gas into the intake manifold, lowering peak combustion temperatures. Lowering peak combustion temperatures inhibits the production of NOx. (Production of Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) is greatest at combustion temperatures over 2300°F.)



Functional Test::
A faulty EGR system can cause ignition ping, rough idle, engine stalling, sags or hesitation, and/or lack of performance. It is important that this system be free from leaks or plugged passages. Any hoses that are cracked or leaking should be replaced.

Inspect all vacuum hoses and connections, and replace any that are cracked, hardened, or melted. Operation of the EGR system should be checked as follows:

Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature.
Allow engine to run at normal idle speed and set the parking brake.
Allow engine to idle in neutral for 70 seconds, then quickly accelerate engine rpm to 2,000 rpm.
Watch the stem of the EGR valve to see if there is movement. This movement can be seen by watching the groove on the valve stem.
Repeat the previous step several times to verify movement of the valve. Movement of the stem indicates that the control system is functioning properly, and the EGR gas flow test can now be performed.
If no movement of the valve stem is visible, refer to the EGR Solenoid test procedure in this section.
Gas Flow Test:

Connect suitable tachometer to engine.
Disconnect and plug vacuum hose from EGR valve and connect hand-operated vacuum pump to EGR valve nipple.
Start engine and allow to warm up to normal operating temperature.
Slowly apply vacuum to EGR valve.
Engine rpm should drop as vacuum reaches 2 to 3.5 in. Hg vacuum, and should continue to drop as more vacuum is applied, engine may even stall. This drop in rpm means that EGR gas is flowing through the system.
Successful completion of this test and the functional test indicates a fully-operational EGR system.
If engine rpm does not drop when vacuum is applied to the EGR vacuum diaphragm, then a defective EGR valve or plugged EGR passage, or tube is indicated. The EGR valve, intake manifold passage, and tube assembly should be removed, inspected, and cleaned or replaced.
EGR Solenoid Test:

Mark vacuum hoses on EGR Solenoid for reference, then disconnect and plug.
Connect a vacuum pump to the solenoid nipple that previously had the vacuum line that went to the throttle body.
Disconnect the EGR Solenoid valve electrical connector, and apply battery voltage to one of the solenoid terminals. Attach a jumper wire from ground to the other pin of the EGR Solenoid.
Using the previously attached vacuum pump, apply vacuum.
Verify that with voltage applied to the solenoid, vacuum holds, and with no voltage applied, vacuum does not hold. The solenoid should also make a "clicking" noise when voltage is applied and when voltage is taken away.
Remove battery voltage and jumper, and check the resistance of the EGR Solenoid.
If solenoid fails any of the previous steps, it is defective and needs to be replaced.
As always, check the service manual for the proper procedures and specifications for your particular vehicle."

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

i have replaced the egr valve, egr solenoid, and air mass sensor. those were the codes. i keep getting 1005. it must be a clogged line somewhere. any ideas on common clogged lines and where to begin? thanks everybody for helping.....appreciate it

knight71

Did you reset the ecu?..Is the solenoid valve from the dealer or scrapyard?.If all of the above parts are new, and 1005 still comes up it could be your EGR tubes may be clogged with carbon and may need to be cleaned out, however many members who had this problem got the 0302 code,,so I'm a little confused..anyone else with any other ideas? This thread may also help also..Good luck!

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=516825&page=1

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

ok after installing all that and cleared the codes it still runs a little weird. no codes are coming up though. it hesitates around low rpm and low speed but its fine opening it up. i tested the iacv,tps,each coil(6),replaced alot of vacuum lines, i've been working on this 2 soild days. Maybe i got some bad gas??
i'm stumped? thanks again for the help guys

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

ok so now i have a misfire on #5 cylinder, thats the latest code popping up. I put a new coil in #5 and new plugs all around and its doing the same. When its in gear it chugs, but when i'm doing high speed with rpm up its fine. it only seems like at low rpm and idle it hesitates and chugs.

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

so any ideas on a p0305 cylinder #5 misfire?

lexoid

Have you checked compression for cyl #5? I had cylinder #4 missfire, changed coils/plugs/filter still had #4 missfire. But fuelling my maxima at another gas station fixed it. I guess I have bad compression in cyl 4 or clogged injector. It could be injector, because with this error, LH O2 sensor showed me lean mixture. After the code went away, O2 switches as usual, more than 5 time in 10 seconds.

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

i checked #5 fuel injector and its not making any noise, you can hear the others ticking away but its dead, my luck the intake manifold has to come off to do them so this weekend is shot down! thanks guys though for the help

lexoid

Most probable the injector is dead, although it is worth checking connectors and wires before you buy new injector The injector's resistance is about 10-14Ohm and one terminal of the injector should have battery voltage constantly when the ignition is on. The other one terminal is connected to the ECM and there should be pulses when the engine is running, though you can see them only using oscilloscope I think.

dizheafta

iTrader: (1)

problem fixed, replace all 3 under the intake manifold and she runs like new. Thanks to all who helped!

Thomas J

My EGR tube from EGR valve to intake manifold was clogged solid, as was the hole leading from tube into the intake. All parts have to be removed, including MAS assembly and throttle body. I removed EGR valve also, replaced as 152,00 on car. It is easy, take time. I needed 4 hours, but am REAL slow. Take care to avoid any hard carbon from entering intake, so use rag stuffed into intake BEFORE proceeding. After this was done and all parts assured were working (EGR valve and Solenoid) then used Sea Foam on running engine to thoroughly clean. Worked well, all labor though. Before this I replaced fuel filter and plugs, but CEL still gave codes for EGR solenoid valve, knock sensor and Temp sensor. All except knock sensor tested OK, which was cracked. By the way, intake not necessary to remove at all to get to knock sensor.
Hope this helps, car runs great.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

This thread is a little under a year and a half old...and as said by the post directly before yours has already fixed all of his issues.

And yes, removing UIM and LIM is the only proper way to do the KS.