Few questions
12-26-2008, 11:51 AM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Connecticut / Western Mass
Posts: 460
Few questions
I got a few questions and rather than making all of them separate I figured I'd ask all them here.
1) My clutch is soon going to give out as after 3k it slips in higher gears under heavy throttle and acceleration. My question is have you guys ever heard of "Perfection Clutch" or "Zoom" who makes them. You guys say 5th gen is the way to go with OEM and wanted to know if I get a 5th gen Perfection Clutch and will it fit. Just wanna double check first before I buy. (Got 2 gift cards to advance auto parts).
2) Whenever I press on the clutch this noise goes away and when I let go it comes back. I read it was something about the throw out bearing. Dunno. Sounds like some fluid but its not.
3) My axle on the passenger side is rubbing against the ball joint bolt. I was told that the axle is a wrong one if it was ever replaced. Anyone had any experience with this? I'll get pics for you guys and oh yea I replaced the ball joint and it didn't help.
4) Whenever I start moving slowly I hear a thump noise coming from the drivers side. Maybe it has something to do with the clutch. To me it sounds like an engine mount is shot. It only does when I start moving very slowly and keeps making that noise. Otherwise its fine.
5) My LED spoiler doesn't work and hasn't since I got the car a couple months ago. I checked with a volt meter and got some reading. I'm just assuming the whole strip went out since I connected a batter to it and nothing happened. Do you guys know which one to get? They have so many to choose from. All I know is to get one with 3 tabs.
Thanks.
1) My clutch is soon going to give out as after 3k it slips in higher gears under heavy throttle and acceleration. My question is have you guys ever heard of "Perfection Clutch" or "Zoom" who makes them. You guys say 5th gen is the way to go with OEM and wanted to know if I get a 5th gen Perfection Clutch and will it fit. Just wanna double check first before I buy. (Got 2 gift cards to advance auto parts).
2) Whenever I press on the clutch this noise goes away and when I let go it comes back. I read it was something about the throw out bearing. Dunno. Sounds like some fluid but its not.
3) My axle on the passenger side is rubbing against the ball joint bolt. I was told that the axle is a wrong one if it was ever replaced. Anyone had any experience with this? I'll get pics for you guys and oh yea I replaced the ball joint and it didn't help.
4) Whenever I start moving slowly I hear a thump noise coming from the drivers side. Maybe it has something to do with the clutch. To me it sounds like an engine mount is shot. It only does when I start moving very slowly and keeps making that noise. Otherwise its fine.
5) My LED spoiler doesn't work and hasn't since I got the car a couple months ago. I checked with a volt meter and got some reading. I'm just assuming the whole strip went out since I connected a batter to it and nothing happened. Do you guys know which one to get? They have so many to choose from. All I know is to get one with 3 tabs.
Thanks.
12-26-2008, 12:11 PM
#2
1) My clutch is soon going to give out as after 3k it slips in higher gears under heavy throttle and acceleration. My question is have you guys ever heard of "Perfection Clutch" or "Zoom" who makes them. You guys say 5th gen is the way to go with OEM and wanted to know if I get a 5th gen Perfection Clutch and will it fit. Just wanna double check first before I buy. (Got 2 gift cards to advance auto parts).
Save the gift cards for oil, oil filters, air filters, fuel filters, PCV valves, gaskets, touch up paint, etc. Basically all the little random stuff you pick up from time to time, gift cards are well used there (unless they have a near expiration date, of course).
4) Whenever I start moving slowly I hear a thump noise coming from the drivers side. Maybe it has something to do with the clutch. To me it sounds like an engine mount is shot. It only does when I start moving very slowly and keeps making that noise. Otherwise its fine.
12-26-2008, 12:29 PM
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Connecticut / Western Mass
Posts: 460
Never heard of them. Looks like they use Valeo equipment, but I never was a fan of auto parts store clutches, had quite a few bad experiences with them. I'm more pissed at the PITA it was to R&R the trans again on all the cars they crapped out on. Personally I would just go OE 5th gen clutch kit, Dave B will give you a good price on one.
Yea that's what I ment to say.
I see. I searched on google and that's what other people said so I assumed so too. But I will get a video. Maybe it sounds like the clutch is chattered? Dunno what that sounds like, but that noise never made a noise until I realized my clutch was slipping.
12-26-2008, 12:36 PM
#4
That's why I asked first. Thanks. But will any 5th gen clutch work on a 4th gen? And where can I contact this Dave B guy at?
I see. I searched on google and that's what other people said so I assumed so too. But I will get a video. Maybe it sounds like the clutch is chattered? Dunno what that sounds like, but that noise never made a noise until I realized my clutch was slipping.
I see. I searched on google and that's what other people said so I assumed so too. But I will get a video. Maybe it sounds like the clutch is chattered? Dunno what that sounds like, but that noise never made a noise until I realized my clutch was slipping.
Mostly it's a felt thing though.
Yes, the 5th gen (00-01 VQ30DE-K) clutches will work with the 4th gens. Virtually the same engine, it's the same trans, pretty much all the same.
1-888-254-6060, ask for Dave Burnette in parts (there are two Dave Bs that work there, apparently), tell him you're from the org. He'll know exactly what to get you when you ask for a 5th gen clutch kit. Oh, and let him know Merlyn still hasn't sold his car
He'll understand.
12-29-2008, 04:43 PM
#7
What's up bro? It's Lou with the S13. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
Anyways, I highly recommend using the OEM 5G VQ30 clutch kit (for mostly anything except if you plan on having any forced induction). Mine is still holding strong after a lot of hard driving, and I was the third person I believe to use the 5G clutch in the 4G maxima.
It's kind of hard to tell about the ball joint stud rubbing against the axle from the angle the picture is. Does it rub only in certain driving conditions? turning the wheel a certain way?
I've always understood that sound with the clutch engaged that disappears when the clutch is disengaged to be a worn/noisy throw out bearing, but I guess it could be the input shaft bearing too.
Anyways, I highly recommend using the OEM 5G VQ30 clutch kit (for mostly anything except if you plan on having any forced induction). Mine is still holding strong after a lot of hard driving, and I was the third person I believe to use the 5G clutch in the 4G maxima.
It's kind of hard to tell about the ball joint stud rubbing against the axle from the angle the picture is. Does it rub only in certain driving conditions? turning the wheel a certain way?
I've always understood that sound with the clutch engaged that disappears when the clutch is disengaged to be a worn/noisy throw out bearing, but I guess it could be the input shaft bearing too.
12-29-2008, 04:46 PM
#8
Throwout bearing isn't in use with the clutch engaged, it wouldn't make noise. Would only be apparent when disengaging the clutch, when you're actually using the throwout bearing.
12-29-2008, 08:06 PM
#9
...and the more I think about it as I wrote that, the less sense it makes that the throw out bearing would be the culprit.
Good call.
12-30-2008, 03:30 PM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Connecticut / Western Mass
Posts: 460
Its always like that. I found out when I had my car on the lift and turned the wheel.
01-21-2009, 10:34 PM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 866
Has your car been wrecked? Just asking to see if something could be bent to cause that. What about the balljoint being replaced? Shouldn't the cotter pin be going through the catellated part of the nut? It appears the threaded portion of that ball joint is long. Is it identical to the other side? Is the part of the knucle the ball joint attaches to bent upwards a little?
Just went out and looked at mine ('97 SE, all original ball joints). Mine doesn't have a castellated nut. It is a "normal" nut with a cotter pin through the shaft above it. Looks like your ball joint "stud" is longer than mine. I have a good 1/4" clearance between my ball joint stud and axle. My "normal" nut appears to be about the size of yours minus the castellated part. The stud appears to stick through about the same as yours (enough for a cotter pin, and a few threads above that). I would guess your ball joint has been replaced with a non-Maxima one. You could compare to the other side, or check on another Maxima of the same year as yours. If yours is wrong, you could either replace the ball joint (Nissan says to replace entire control arm), or possibly find a shorter replacement nut of proper thread count/pitch, and cut off excess stud material. But leave enough room to drill a new hole for a cotter pin (you'd need to remove control arm and use a drill press most likely). Might be easier to just replace with a proper sized ball joint, but this still requires control arm removal to press out old and press in the new ball joint (unless they've come out with new replacements that don't require a shop press).
Just some things to check. Hope this helps.
Dave
Just went out and looked at mine ('97 SE, all original ball joints). Mine doesn't have a castellated nut. It is a "normal" nut with a cotter pin through the shaft above it. Looks like your ball joint "stud" is longer than mine. I have a good 1/4" clearance between my ball joint stud and axle. My "normal" nut appears to be about the size of yours minus the castellated part. The stud appears to stick through about the same as yours (enough for a cotter pin, and a few threads above that). I would guess your ball joint has been replaced with a non-Maxima one. You could compare to the other side, or check on another Maxima of the same year as yours. If yours is wrong, you could either replace the ball joint (Nissan says to replace entire control arm), or possibly find a shorter replacement nut of proper thread count/pitch, and cut off excess stud material. But leave enough room to drill a new hole for a cotter pin (you'd need to remove control arm and use a drill press most likely). Might be easier to just replace with a proper sized ball joint, but this still requires control arm removal to press out old and press in the new ball joint (unless they've come out with new replacements that don't require a shop press).
Just some things to check. Hope this helps.
Dave
01-22-2009, 03:30 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Connecticut / Western Mass
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Has your car been wrecked? Just asking to see if something could be bent to cause that. What about the balljoint being replaced? Shouldn't the cotter pin be going through the catellated part of the nut? It appears the threaded portion of that ball joint is long. Is it identical to the other side? Is the part of the knucle the ball joint attaches to bent upwards a little?
Just went out and looked at mine ('97 SE, all original ball joints). Mine doesn't have a castellated nut. It is a "normal" nut with a cotter pin through the shaft above it. Looks like your ball joint "stud" is longer than mine. I have a good 1/4" clearance between my ball joint stud and axle. My "normal" nut appears to be about the size of yours minus the castellated part. The stud appears to stick through about the same as yours (enough for a cotter pin, and a few threads above that). I would guess your ball joint has been replaced with a non-Maxima one. You could compare to the other side, or check on another Maxima of the same year as yours. If yours is wrong, you could either replace the ball joint (Nissan says to replace entire control arm), or possibly find a shorter replacement nut of proper thread count/pitch, and cut off excess stud material. But leave enough room to drill a new hole for a cotter pin (you'd need to remove control arm and use a drill press most likely). Might be easier to just replace with a proper sized ball joint, but this still requires control arm removal to press out old and press in the new ball joint (unless they've come out with new replacements that don't require a shop press).
Just some things to check. Hope this helps.
Dave
Just went out and looked at mine ('97 SE, all original ball joints). Mine doesn't have a castellated nut. It is a "normal" nut with a cotter pin through the shaft above it. Looks like your ball joint "stud" is longer than mine. I have a good 1/4" clearance between my ball joint stud and axle. My "normal" nut appears to be about the size of yours minus the castellated part. The stud appears to stick through about the same as yours (enough for a cotter pin, and a few threads above that). I would guess your ball joint has been replaced with a non-Maxima one. You could compare to the other side, or check on another Maxima of the same year as yours. If yours is wrong, you could either replace the ball joint (Nissan says to replace entire control arm), or possibly find a shorter replacement nut of proper thread count/pitch, and cut off excess stud material. But leave enough room to drill a new hole for a cotter pin (you'd need to remove control arm and use a drill press most likely). Might be easier to just replace with a proper sized ball joint, but this still requires control arm removal to press out old and press in the new ball joint (unless they've come out with new replacements that don't require a shop press).
Just some things to check. Hope this helps.
Dave
01-22-2009, 08:27 PM
#16
Look at the stud length on the ball joint, its too long.
If you look close you'll notice that the cotter pin (retaining pin) isn't even into the grooves on the nut.
If you had a shop do this job take it back immediately and show them it.
Whoever installed that should have noticed the issue right away.
And yet another reason why you should not just replace the ball joint, get the whole control arm.
01-23-2009, 06:39 AM
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Connecticut / Western Mass
Posts: 460
It doesnt look like its rubbing bad. But that's either the wrong ball joint, or the control arm is worn so bad the ball joint pressed in too far.
Look at the stud length on the ball joint, its too long.
If you look close you'll notice that the cotter pin (retaining pin) isn't even into the grooves on the nut.
If you had a shop do this job take it back immediately and show them it.
Whoever installed that should have noticed the issue right away.
And yet another reason why you should not just replace the ball joint, get the whole control arm.
Look at the stud length on the ball joint, its too long.
If you look close you'll notice that the cotter pin (retaining pin) isn't even into the grooves on the nut.
If you had a shop do this job take it back immediately and show them it.
Whoever installed that should have noticed the issue right away.
And yet another reason why you should not just replace the ball joint, get the whole control arm.
I did both ball joint installations myself (piece of cake). The only reason I asked was because the OEM was like that too! I figured if I'd replace it with this one it might fix the problem. Guess not. Next I bought a new axle and it's still doing it. My only guess would be that this was probably a ebay control arm (had a sticker saying oem) and some of the bushings might be bad. I'm not a suspension guy so that is why I am asking you guys.
Thanks for the feed back.
01-23-2009, 12:36 PM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 866
If you have the same type ball joints on both sides, and one side doesn't rub, I'd be checking things like a bent control arm or bent knuckle (which is why I asked originally if it had ever been wrecked, but if it has a clear title, don't worry about it). You could measure the length of the ball joint sticking through the knuckle, and compare to driver's side. This will tell you if the ball joint is pressed in the control arm too far (because of wear or bad control arm). If they measure the same, I'd be looking at the knuckle to see if it is bent (unlikely, but could be), or even the lower control arm.
Here's a pic of mine to show the difference in the ball joint stud and nut:
Hope this helps.
Dave
Here's a pic of mine to show the difference in the ball joint stud and nut:
Hope this helps.
Dave
01-23-2009, 06:20 PM
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Connecticut / Western Mass
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01-23-2009, 06:22 PM
#20
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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Posts: 460
If you have the same type ball joints on both sides, and one side doesn't rub, I'd be checking things like a bent control arm or bent knuckle (which is why I asked originally if it had ever been wrecked, but if it has a clear title, don't worry about it). You could measure the length of the ball joint sticking through the knuckle, and compare to driver's side. This will tell you if the ball joint is pressed in the control arm too far (because of wear or bad control arm). If they measure the same, I'd be looking at the knuckle to see if it is bent (unlikely, but could be), or even the lower control arm.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Hope this helps.
Dave
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