Whinny noise, dimmed lights, is my alty bad? Problem after problems -_-
#1
Whinny noise, dimmed lights, is my alty bad? Problem after problems -_-
Today, my mom tried starting the car. It wouldn't work. I do get light, but when driving and from overall, it seems like the battery might be weak? This is an optima red top too ! Might've been a while.
But I am not sure if its because the alternator or whatever is not working. Getting a weird sound when driving, almost whinning.
Thanks.
But I am not sure if its because the alternator or whatever is not working. Getting a weird sound when driving, almost whinning.
Thanks.
#2
What do you mean? Is the red battery light on when driving? If so, then yea, its your alternator. The whining could be the bearings in the alternator pully. If you can take it off, most auto part stores, like Autozone or Advanced will test it for free.
#4
No lights on the dash board. Car has about 90 k.
Do you folks think it could be the alternator that has not charged my battery?
Darn, are alternators difficult to change? I have no experience in it along w/ the belts.
I will try start the car, it's just very feignt in crank power.
Thanks
Do you folks think it could be the alternator that has not charged my battery?
Darn, are alternators difficult to change? I have no experience in it along w/ the belts.
I will try start the car, it's just very feignt in crank power.
Thanks
#5
You should start by taking the battery to a parts store like Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance or Murray's ect. and get it tested/charged for free. I think Walmart or Sears will do it for free too.
Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
#6
You should start by taking the battery to a parts store like Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance or Murray's ect. and get it tested/charged for free. I think Walmart or Sears will do it for free too.
Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
For alternator jobs, about how much would it be?
#7
if you pull the radiator (2 bolts and plug the hoses) than its nice and easy from the top. like a 2hr job at most. dont assume its anything until you test everything.
#8
I'l call checkers and see what they say, but the people working there aren't too knoweldgeble.
damn s8t car i hate this car.
#9
After you charge and test the battery, if the battery tests good, drive it around. If the battery drains, then its your alternator. Deflection? Just make it good and tight. If you really want it perfect, all you need is a ruler to check the deflection.
Last edited by yesipuff; 12-24-2008 at 12:50 PM.
#10
Good lord jesus. I dunno if I can or have time doing this job for a noobie. I've read it before. Someone told me as long it doesn't whine/schreech your good.
Would typical sockets work? **** I have to dig it up. They are scattered everywhere.
Damn this. But if i get a new battery and it starts, its not my starter then. This maxima killed 5 starters, from new,remakes,reman.
Would typical sockets work? **** I have to dig it up. They are scattered everywhere.
Damn this. But if i get a new battery and it starts, its not my starter then. This maxima killed 5 starters, from new,remakes,reman.
#12
Dont know about the ticking noise but on the alt i can help. Just need 12mm, 14mm, 21mm if im not mistaken. 12mm for the power connection to the alt. 14mm for the idler pulley and 14mm for the long bolt to that goes through the alt. 21mm for the 4 bolts holding the AC. Dont worry about the alt, its a super easy replacement if you have a good replacement alt. ive done it 4 times on 2 different maximas(2 bad replacements) and i have it down to 1hr tops. just need to
1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
Last edited by maf2003111; 12-24-2008 at 09:00 PM.
#13
Dont know about the ticking noise but on the alt i can help. Just need 12mm, 14mm, 21mm if im not mistaken. 12mm for the power connection to the alt. 14mm for the idler pulley and 14mm for the long bolt to that goes through the alt. 21mm for the 4 bolts holding the AC. Dont worry about the alt, its a super easy replacement if you have a good replacement alt. ive done it 4 times on 2 different maximas(2 bad replacements) and i have it down to 1hr tops. just need to
1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
Man it's frustrating, after trying to maintain a job, I am getting problems after problems for years w/ this car, since I've been here in 2004. I really appreciate the help.
On the belts, how do you know it's tightened properly? As long it doesn't squeek? I have 2 new blets I bought from Nissan. Just the belt things bother me and putting them back on. If I know how to get the belts on/off, I am pretty confident in doing this alty job.
Btw, on the alternator. Do you think typical autolite brands are good?
For that part, do I just use the closed end loop hole of a wrench? This is the tensioner correct for the whole drive belt unit?
Last edited by FishyMan; 12-25-2008 at 03:25 AM.
#14
I think the ticking sound seems like a weak battery. But this whinny sound might be a pully issue? Shall I youtube this? Could be a bad bearing on the alty pully or some ****?
Man it's frustrating, after trying to maintain a job, I am getting problems after problems for years w/ this car, since I've been here in 2004. I really appreciate the help.
On the belts, how do you know it's tightened properly? As long it doesn't squeek? I have 2 new blets I bought from Nissan. Just the belt things bother me and putting them back on. If I know how to get the belts on/off, I am pretty confident in doing this alty job.
Btw, on the alternator. Do you think typical autolite brands are good?
For that part, do I just use the closed end loop hole of a wrench? This is the tensioner correct for the whole drive belt unit?
Man it's frustrating, after trying to maintain a job, I am getting problems after problems for years w/ this car, since I've been here in 2004. I really appreciate the help.
On the belts, how do you know it's tightened properly? As long it doesn't squeek? I have 2 new blets I bought from Nissan. Just the belt things bother me and putting them back on. If I know how to get the belts on/off, I am pretty confident in doing this alty job.
Btw, on the alternator. Do you think typical autolite brands are good?
For that part, do I just use the closed end loop hole of a wrench? This is the tensioner correct for the whole drive belt unit?
#17
#21
To the OP: Get your car checked immediately if there is any suspicion at all that it IS the alternator. I guess 4th Gen alternators are known to burn up, and last week mine literally almost did catch fire. Better to get it replaced now than when you're going down the road and everything dies on you.
#22
To the OP: Get your car checked immediately if there is any suspicion at all that it IS the alternator. I guess 4th Gen alternators are known to burn up, and last week mine literally almost did catch fire. Better to get it replaced now than when you're going down the road and everything dies on you.
I can't crank it, its got the rapid tap. Pretty sure its battery and the alternator is irking me too !
Autolite is good?
#24
I cannot for the love remember. Here's my fear.
The battery works, it's just not being charged cuz the whinny sound by my alternator is giving out. But more so I don't want to believe this since the light didn't come up on the dash board, and because I hear the 'rapid tick tap', when I tried to turn the key, signaling the battery not having juice.
Even with a new battery, I run the potential of destroying and draining it as well.
The battery works, it's just not being charged cuz the whinny sound by my alternator is giving out. But more so I don't want to believe this since the light didn't come up on the dash board, and because I hear the 'rapid tick tap', when I tried to turn the key, signaling the battery not having juice.
Even with a new battery, I run the potential of destroying and draining it as well.
#26
I did consider taking it to some place, but would like to inquire a bit first.
Thanks.
#27
If you keep trying tro start your car, when the battery is slightly dead, you will ruin your starter. I would recommend you to just take the battery to the stare, and see if its ok, if thats not the problem, then it might be your alternator.
I had a problem almost like this. My car kept going dead after 3 days of no driving or being stared, then it went down to everyday it would go dead. I checked everywhere. The alternator was good, the battery was old, but still good, the starter was good, everything was ok. Later on, it went dead when I was at school, it wanted to start so badly, so I kept trying to start it, suddenly, I heard a loud click, the starter blew up. About a week later, I finally got up, and got it towed to my moms friends shop, he looked everywhere also, then one last thinking, the drivers power seat. It was the drivers pwer seat, everytime I hit a small bump, it came on, and didnt turn off. It was un-noticable. I now have it disconnected, till I can take it out, and fix it.
I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
I had a problem almost like this. My car kept going dead after 3 days of no driving or being stared, then it went down to everyday it would go dead. I checked everywhere. The alternator was good, the battery was old, but still good, the starter was good, everything was ok. Later on, it went dead when I was at school, it wanted to start so badly, so I kept trying to start it, suddenly, I heard a loud click, the starter blew up. About a week later, I finally got up, and got it towed to my moms friends shop, he looked everywhere also, then one last thinking, the drivers power seat. It was the drivers pwer seat, everytime I hit a small bump, it came on, and didnt turn off. It was un-noticable. I now have it disconnected, till I can take it out, and fix it.
I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
#28
It was the drivers pwer seat, everytime I hit a small bump, it came on, and didnt turn off. It was un-noticable. I now have it disconnected, till I can take it out, and fix it.
I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
#31
yea, if its good. did you get it tested? if the battery is good, but drained, and the alternator is working, you can jump start the car and run it for a while to charge the battery (with the alternator). if the battery dies while its running then the alternator is not charging, but you have to get that battery tested first so you know for sure it's good.
Last edited by yesipuff; 12-26-2008 at 04:04 PM.
#32
i never heard of a bad battery making anything whine. Im just going to say its Alt. dont worry if your not good with cars its a easy job. If you have a good rebuilders in town you can get ur alt rebuild it comes out cheaper and better, if not advance auto or orielly should be ok with their lifetime warrenty.
#33
i never heard of a bad battery making anything whine. Im just going to say its Alt. dont worry if your not good with cars its a easy job. If you have a good rebuilders in town you can get ur alt rebuild it comes out cheaper and better, if not advance auto or orielly should be ok with their lifetime warrenty.
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