Front brace rusting out
#1
Front brace rusting out
So I was changing over to snow tires today, and was jacking up the front end with a floor jack like I always do. The manual says to use the nub on the front brace as a jack point. As I raised the car I heard a bad crunch, like rusted parts breaking apart. So I lowered the car and took a look, the brace is rusted and split most of the way through. A more care exam seems to reveal that the front engine mount is secured in the area.
So if you have a 4th gen, I suggest you take a look. I attached two pics to show you what shape my brace is in.
Also, has anyone else had this problem? I think I lost the front engine mount, and based on the looks of it, I can't even get a fabricator to weld the brace back temporarily. Grrr, just did my winter tune up and the car is running great.
So if you have a 4th gen, I suggest you take a look. I attached two pics to show you what shape my brace is in.
Also, has anyone else had this problem? I think I lost the front engine mount, and based on the looks of it, I can't even get a fabricator to weld the brace back temporarily. Grrr, just did my winter tune up and the car is running great.
#4
Ah yes, I am finding the posts now! Miserable. I see many others are having the same problem. But I am glad to see that it can be repaired, and much less than what I was initially estimating. Once again the ORG comes through! Off to find a shop that can do the work.
#5
Well, you're definitely not alone on this. Have a look at what mine looks like right now.. Get this, my entire support was replaced in Fall of '06. By the end of '07 it was busted. Took it back to the shop in January of this year, and they did a weld-in "fix", which was destroyed again by the fall of this year. The shop used a cheap aftermarket support and just did a terrible job overall. Bolts were missing, front engine mount was not and still is not properly bolted, etc. I'm just going to take it as a loss and replace the entire lower support sometime next month. Working on a temporary fix for now, likely something along the lines of #2 in OverDose's post (btw, thanks. do you have any more pictures of the job by any chance?) Obviously, the ride is awful right now. Clunks, clanks, pops galore. The car just generally feels like it's about to fall apart.
Last edited by CRiME; 11-28-2008 at 12:49 PM.
#7
same here
mine is there to but i found the rad support for 25 bucks from a company called re-nu or renew not sure how they spell it...ill do mine when take the engine to get rid of a nasty fast pace oil leak behind the rear timing cover and i figure since its going to be such a big project i should do the 5spd conversion and get all all over with
#8
mine is there to but i found the rad support for 25 bucks from a company called re-nu or renew not sure how they spell it...ill do mine when take the engine to get rid of a nasty fast pace oil leak behind the rear timing cover and i figure since its going to be such a big project i should do the 5spd conversion and get all all over with
#9
My 95 was about 50% rusted through by 2007. I did a "Backyard Fix" on it. Here are some pictures...(whoops, I only get 5 pictures per post and I have 7. I'll try two posts.)
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Edit by Justock 8/13/09:
It looks like my pictures are mysteriously disappearing from this post. You can view them in my photo album... http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?albumid=223
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Edit by Justock 8/13/09:
It looks like my pictures are mysteriously disappearing from this post. You can view them in my photo album... http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?albumid=223
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Last edited by Justock; 08-13-2009 at 09:11 AM.
#11
Justock: Awesome first posts man . We need more new members like you instead of the ones who come on here reviving 8 year old threads & spamming us with useless babble . Thank you for the information & pictures and welcome to the site!
#12
Thank you for the information & pictures and welcome to the site!
1) Don't ask how to remove headlights from an 02 Max
2) Don't ask, if you can "Search" for it.
3) Don't complain about MPG.
And some day I'm going to learn where the "Stickies" are !
#13
Nice job Justock.
Just an update, got a quote from the local dealer (Clay Auto Body, Newton) to have the lower tie bar replaced, $760.
Getting it done tomorrow before I something more happens!
Just an update, got a quote from the local dealer (Clay Auto Body, Newton) to have the lower tie bar replaced, $760.
Getting it done tomorrow before I something more happens!
#14
Awesome first posts Justock.
1) Spend the extra cash and get an OEM support from a reputable source. I chose worldpartsexpress.com. I also think Dave B can get it?
2) Whatever route you go, make sure you spray some sort of rust preventative on it. Rustoleum, rubber body coating, etc. . . I first tried the rubberized crap, but either got a bad brand or a bad can. I would spray it, let it dry for 3-4 days, and the **** would rub off by hand
3) To the Op. Your car and your business, but I wouldnt pay that much to do something I know I can do. Just a pet peeve of mine. But at least your getting it taken care of!
4)Justock: That is an ingenious way to fix the core support. I love the ingenuity. BUT! I would hate to know my car has a huge gaping hole on one of the most important spots on the car. But, once again your car and your business.
Also would have figured that MAYBE, just maybe Nissan wouldve fixed the problem on the 5th gens. Guess not :-(
Just my .02
I mean no disrespect to anyone!
NM91
1) Spend the extra cash and get an OEM support from a reputable source. I chose worldpartsexpress.com. I also think Dave B can get it?
2) Whatever route you go, make sure you spray some sort of rust preventative on it. Rustoleum, rubber body coating, etc. . . I first tried the rubberized crap, but either got a bad brand or a bad can. I would spray it, let it dry for 3-4 days, and the **** would rub off by hand
3) To the Op. Your car and your business, but I wouldnt pay that much to do something I know I can do. Just a pet peeve of mine. But at least your getting it taken care of!
4)Justock: That is an ingenious way to fix the core support. I love the ingenuity. BUT! I would hate to know my car has a huge gaping hole on one of the most important spots on the car. But, once again your car and your business.
Also would have figured that MAYBE, just maybe Nissan wouldve fixed the problem on the 5th gens. Guess not :-(
Just my .02
I mean no disrespect to anyone!
NM91
#15
SWEET MAN
Great minds think alike
#18
BUT! I would hate to know my car has a huge gaping hole on one of the most important spots on the car.
I had just bought the car with 132K on it from a Nissan dealer when I was poking around and saw the bubbles under the support's paint. I tried to return the car because I saw it as a safety issue. The service manager assured me that it was not a major structural member, and he had seen a lot worse. Right! It only holds the engine up. Anyway, it would have hurt my pride worse to put $700+ into a 12 year old car that I just drove off the lot, than to drive it with a hidden hole. As long as the rusting is stopped, the engine is supported, and no one can see it, I can live with it. I also found and repaired rust under the a rear mud flap from leaky sunroof and power antenna drains. I used a fiberglass patch and it is completely hidden by the mud flap. Other than that, it's in great shape inside and out and a pleasure to drive. Bassbreaker, I liked your idea. I wish I could weld. Justock
#19
you mean of the 4th gen max's, and justock you should've replaced that support for all the rust you have on that one, i did'nt have anywhere NEAR the rust you did and i had a body shop weld in a nice thick peice of 1/4 inch steel and triple weld it, painted it with like 4 coats of heavy duty paint and he said it would outlast the car.
Last edited by max ride 41; 12-03-2008 at 03:42 AM.
#20
I too thought it was worthwhile paying someone earlier this year to replace my radiator support - also on a northeast (i.e. snow/salt exposed) car with over 190K miles. But I had been driving around for many months with the front engine mount completely detached, with zero adverse effects. The engine is still well supported and, if I didn't really still like the car and hope to keep it a while longer, I'm sure I could have put off this repair.
Though the piece isn't a major structural member, it does have to support the radiator. And I do wonder what would happen if it rusted completely through?
#21
and justock you should've replaced that support
Have to agree with the service manager here.
#23
A lot of people talk about coating the outside of the radiator core support so it does not rust but I have a feeling that most of these rust issues are because water gets inside the core support and cannot escape. I guess if you coat it in the right places so water cannot enter is a good thing.
#24
There are a couple of large openings front left and front right and several other holes in the support. I thought of covering them up, or spraying the support full of some of that expanding foam insulation. But I figured the openings were there for a reason. Maybe ventilation. You sure don't want to trap moisture in. On both the '95 and the '02, I used existing bolts in the center area to loosely hold a piece of X-Ray film where it would protect the support from direct road/salt spray. You only see it if you look up under the lower grill...and if you do that you should expect to see ugly.
Since this 02 support rust was just getting started, no repairs were needed. I wire-brushed and sanded the outside. Then used a rust converter, Rustolium primer, and black Rustolium paint. Also sprayed on undercoating in the worst area. Inside the support, I blew it out with compressed air and sprayed in lots of cavity wax. I don't claim to be an expert, I just hate rust !
Since this 02 support rust was just getting started, no repairs were needed. I wire-brushed and sanded the outside. Then used a rust converter, Rustolium primer, and black Rustolium paint. Also sprayed on undercoating in the worst area. Inside the support, I blew it out with compressed air and sprayed in lots of cavity wax. I don't claim to be an expert, I just hate rust !
#25
I noticed this same problem several years ago and ignored it. Guess I better get under the car and take a look before it gets too bad. I would like to keep this car running for my kids. I should be able fabricate something and weld it in there. Thanks for all the tips!
#26
I decided to get it fixed because one of the engine mounts is attached to it. I am not sure if there are three or four mounts, but if one is missing, it's significant.
I had the work done at the dealer, they coated and painted the entire bar for me. All better now!
I had the work done at the dealer, they coated and painted the entire bar for me. All better now!
#27
My car has been through alot, and I dont have as much rust (or any rust) as you people. I cant believe it, I live in Floida, go off road with my car, and alot more stuff with it, and I dont get anykind of rust. I feel there will be a surprise when I have to get a new bumper, front bumper support thing, and the things under the headlights.
#28
Its winters and the salt. Down south don't rust as bad or as fast. I do snow removal for the winter. I bet my 2 trucks/1 van crew will put down 20k pounds salt easy. I do like the custom fab job from over dose.
#29
When my support rusted out I tried a temporary fix by sandwiching the brace and rusted support (or what was left of it) between two pieces of plate metal.
As you can see, that didn't work for too long as the entire radiator support started splitting apart.
So I ended up taking it all apart and replacing just the bottom section with a cheap eBay part.
It didn't take more than a few months before the bolts completely ripped out of the new member and I was left back at square one. I had had it with this part and all the work I put into it. I ended up welding an angle to support the brace and some intermediate verticals to keep it centered. So far, this has been working the best. LOL.
As you can see, that didn't work for too long as the entire radiator support started splitting apart.
So I ended up taking it all apart and replacing just the bottom section with a cheap eBay part.
It didn't take more than a few months before the bolts completely ripped out of the new member and I was left back at square one. I had had it with this part and all the work I put into it. I ended up welding an angle to support the brace and some intermediate verticals to keep it centered. So far, this has been working the best. LOL.
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