it was stuck on the crank shaft! The rest of it was solidly stuck. and i put visegrips and tried pushing it off with a screw driver....nothin worked...so i ended up tappping into it..
But the remaining piece of the UDP will come off once the nut is removed....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flava_24/7
Tapping into the nut or pulley?
so let me explain what happened....i didnt even see the cracks... i just heard the pulley vibrating...so i loostened the tensioner, looseneed belts, and took the bolt out of the udp. The pulley just fell off. Pic in post #1. Then watever was left of the pulley...center part.....was stuck on the crankshaft with no bolt there at all....so i put visegrips onto watever was left and tried prying it off...it didn't work...did some research, and asked some guys what my best bet is......They said saw into it and use a gear puller or tap it...so i tappped it...and then pulled it out...and it finally came out...then just put everything back together, and car ran better then when it did w the udp installed.
__________________ 1999 SE 5SPD~WITH SOME BOLT ON's HERE AND THERE.... 1999 GXE AUTO~LOWERED, EXHAUST...
This guy blew up his motor in his 4th gen, and gave it to another friend. The other friend fully parted the car out and asked me if i wanted the udp. I thought it would increase power and make a difference. Guess not. Oh well...From what I understand the brand was probably something cheap like obx or something. Regardless, It doesnt add any power or make a difference. So why get it? Ebay or UR ?
__________________ 1999 SE 5SPD~WITH SOME BOLT ON's HERE AND THERE.... 1999 GXE AUTO~LOWERED, EXHAUST...
you can't really argue the gains, however minimal, of a properly designed udp since it does not actually make power, it just reduces drag and rotational mass freeing up power to the wheels.
the reason your car ran better without it is a) the pulley you used was poorly designed/manufactured (most likely) or b) psychological.
it has long been known that udp's were not a very worthwhile upgrade to our cars and are generally reserved for those wanting to squeeze every last pony out of the car. i believe it is mostly to do with there not being much weight to shed vs. the oem pulley, but i could be wrong. just going from memory.
u got a 3.5 swap??????? on the "dark pheonix??" and auto ? wowww sweet run im just about ready to be doing my swap too! got any info or pix i could read up on? altho "mastercater" can recognize each bolt and how the swap works...i want to check it out and read up some more...!
edit: just saw ur sig and it said rwhp lol......what does ur max run w the 3.5?
__________________ 1999 SE 5SPD~WITH SOME BOLT ON's HERE AND THERE.... 1999 GXE AUTO~LOWERED, EXHAUST...
Last edited by The Russian; 11-19-2008 at 03:56 PM.
u got a 3.5 swap??????? on the "dark pheonix??" and auto ? wowww sweet run im just about ready to be doing my swap too! got any info or pix i could read up on? altho "mastercater" can recognize each bolt and how the swap works...i want to check it out and read up some more...!
edit: just saw ur sig and it said rwhp lol......what does ur max run w the 3.5?
Haha I'm doing it for my girls max. I got the car dirt cheap and it needed a motor so she wanted to put a 3.5 in it. I have a full progress thread in the all motor section. I'm moving slow a hell with it though since its cold now and I dont want to forget anything. I'm at the point of dropping it back in once I get the new headers on. Beleive me I never thought I would ever do something like this but the car and motor was so cheap I couldnt pass it up.
Linear Mode
