Give Gas, she stalls....help
11-12-2008, 12:48 PM
#41
MAF's are usually around $40 all day long here in the Classified section. No need for a brand new one. Contact Maxima_Joe, he's the the 4th gen used parts king.
11-12-2008, 07:10 PM
#44
11-13-2008, 06:13 AM
#46
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The MAF from the parts car was probably dirty too.
But if I recall, with the MAF from the parts car, it starts and dies... if you haven't already cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve, do that too. Starting and dying is usually too little air getting through on cold start. Cleaning the gunk out will let more air in.
You could also ajust the idle screw on the IAC a little
But if I recall, with the MAF from the parts car, it starts and dies... if you haven't already cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve, do that too. Starting and dying is usually too little air getting through on cold start. Cleaning the gunk out will let more air in.
You could also ajust the idle screw on the IAC a little
11-13-2008, 07:16 AM
#47
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The MAF from the parts car was probably dirty too.
But if I recall, with the MAF from the parts car, it starts and dies... if you haven't already cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve, do that too. Starting and dying is usually too little air getting through on cold start. Cleaning the gunk out will let more air in.
You could also ajust the idle screw on the IAC a little
But if I recall, with the MAF from the parts car, it starts and dies... if you haven't already cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve, do that too. Starting and dying is usually too little air getting through on cold start. Cleaning the gunk out will let more air in.
You could also ajust the idle screw on the IAC a little
It's only since i put on the intake that it has had these troubles. So i'm going to assume it is the maf and replace it. I'll also try cleaning both used mafs i have and see if that works. The Maf from the parts car never had troubles before, but when i took it out (not knowing how sensitive it was) i probably harmed it movin it around.
i'll update when i either the new one arrives or when i clean out the 2 old ones tonight
Thank you guys for all of your help
11-13-2008, 11:17 AM
#49
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$90 shipped to my door...which isn't bad cause shipping is a bich when going over the border. Border? That doesn't seem right..lol...anyways...i bought that one, and there is one off of a 96'GLE i found today close to my house for $25 so i'm going to see if that works as well...if all else fails...i'll sell the ebay motors one, along with the OTHER 2 I currently own
Could you have given me a better price...i was awaiting some responses but got nothing
Could you have given me a better price...i was awaiting some responses but got nothing
11-13-2008, 11:27 AM
#50
$90 shipped to my door...which isn't bad cause shipping is a bich when going over the border. Border? That doesn't seem right..lol...anyways...i bought that one, and there is one off of a 96'GLE i found today close to my house for $25 so i'm going to see if that works as well...if all else fails...i'll sell the ebay motors one, along with the OTHER 2 I currently own
Could you have given me a better price...i was awaiting some responses but got nothing
Could you have given me a better price...i was awaiting some responses but got nothing
11-13-2008, 11:34 AM
#51
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yea, i messaged him but he never got back to me...it was only $40 but the shipping was like $37....so that was 77 and that was also USD, converting to Canadian it came to like 90
11-14-2008, 04:21 AM
#52
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OK, so i took apart one of my old Maf sensors cause i heard a rattling around inside of it. So i took those little tiny screws out (very hard to get out, used rust check) and took the plug harness out. The 3 little fillaments inside of it were all bent to the right. I pulled them foward facing the harnesss and when i put it back ogether again, no rattling. Sooo...i'm going to reattach that one now and maybe it will work?
Only one way to find out
Only one way to find out
11-14-2008, 02:26 PM
#53
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OK, so i took apart one of my old Maf sensors cause i heard a rattling around inside of it. So i took those little tiny screws out (very hard to get out, used rust check) and took the plug harness out. The 3 little fillaments inside of it were all bent to the right. I pulled them foward facing the harnesss and when i put it back ogether again, no rattling. Sooo...i'm going to reattach that one now and maybe it will work?
Only one way to find out
Only one way to find out
11-14-2008, 03:03 PM
#54
I really hate to hate on another orger (has anyone noticed how close that is to ogre??), but WHY DO YOU BUY A CAI AND THEN WHINE ABOUT A MAF COSTING SO MUCH??? And if you can't make the connection between a disconnected MAF and a bad running car, I'd hesitate to say you have any business messing around under the hood of this car. Nissan did one hell of a job engineering the intake for quiet, efficiency, airflow, and resistance to picking up water. Yes you can buy a CAI that flows better, but you WILL SACRIFICE the balance that they worked so hard to get. I've been reading this org so much lately and am getting a little fed up with guys who read something on a blog somewhere and think they know more about making an engine run good than Nissan's engineers, so I'll take it out on Bassbreaker. OK, I'm done flaming, all cooled off and feeling good. Now for something constructive.
Somewhere in this thread somebody mentioned that you should check the wiring to the MAF before buying another. Too late for that, but while you're waiting I'd check it out anyway. Just unplug the MAF, turn on the ignition (no need to be running), and get your voltmeter out.
There are three terminals on the MAF. One is +12 that is on whenever the ignition is on. It's either yellow or red if I recall. That terminal supplies power to the MAF from the battery. #2 is a ground. You should show continuity between this (green or black) terminal and a good ground, like the - battery terminal. The third wire carries the 0 to +5 volt signal from the MAF to the ECU. The voltage is proportional to the mass of air entering your engine.
If the connector has the +12 power and a good ground, plug the MAF back in and start the car. Take a straight pin and stick it in the back of the plug (called back probing), and hook the voltmeter up. At idle, you should see 0.5 to 1 volt. If you see this voltage at idle, reach over to the throttle body and rev the engine. The needle on the voltmeter should jump when the engine revs. It won't go all the way to 5 volts, but you should see 2 to 2.5 whenver you rev it. If all this stuff happens, your MAF is fine, and you need to look for another cause.
Again, sorry for the flame, but somebody had to do it.
Somewhere in this thread somebody mentioned that you should check the wiring to the MAF before buying another. Too late for that, but while you're waiting I'd check it out anyway. Just unplug the MAF, turn on the ignition (no need to be running), and get your voltmeter out.
There are three terminals on the MAF. One is +12 that is on whenever the ignition is on. It's either yellow or red if I recall. That terminal supplies power to the MAF from the battery. #2 is a ground. You should show continuity between this (green or black) terminal and a good ground, like the - battery terminal. The third wire carries the 0 to +5 volt signal from the MAF to the ECU. The voltage is proportional to the mass of air entering your engine.
If the connector has the +12 power and a good ground, plug the MAF back in and start the car. Take a straight pin and stick it in the back of the plug (called back probing), and hook the voltmeter up. At idle, you should see 0.5 to 1 volt. If you see this voltage at idle, reach over to the throttle body and rev the engine. The needle on the voltmeter should jump when the engine revs. It won't go all the way to 5 volts, but you should see 2 to 2.5 whenver you rev it. If all this stuff happens, your MAF is fine, and you need to look for another cause.
Again, sorry for the flame, but somebody had to do it.
11-14-2008, 11:18 PM
#55
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I really hate to hate on another orger (has anyone noticed how close that is to ogre??), but WHY DO YOU BUY A CAI AND THEN WHINE ABOUT A MAF COSTING SO MUCH??? And if you can't make the connection between a disconnected MAF and a bad running car, I'd hesitate to say you have any business messing around under the hood of this car. Nissan did one hell of a job engineering the intake for quiet, efficiency, airflow, and resistance to picking up water. Yes you can buy a CAI that flows better, but you WILL SACRIFICE the balance that they worked so hard to get. I've been reading this org so much lately and am getting a little fed up with guys who read something on a blog somewhere and think they know more about making an engine run good than Nissan's engineers, so I'll take it out on Bassbreaker. OK, I'm done flaming, all cooled off and feeling good. Now for something constructive.
Somewhere in this thread somebody mentioned that you should check the wiring to the MAF before buying another. Too late for that, but while you're waiting I'd check it out anyway. Just unplug the MAF, turn on the ignition (no need to be running), and get your voltmeter out.
There are three terminals on the MAF. One is +12 that is on whenever the ignition is on. It's either yellow or red if I recall. That terminal supplies power to the MAF from the battery. #2 is a ground. You should show continuity between this (green or black) terminal and a good ground, like the - battery terminal. The third wire carries the 0 to +5 volt signal from the MAF to the ECU. The voltage is proportional to the mass of air entering your engine.
If the connector has the +12 power and a good ground, plug the MAF back in and start the car. Take a straight pin and stick it in the back of the plug (called back probing), and hook the voltmeter up. At idle, you should see 0.5 to 1 volt. If you see this voltage at idle, reach over to the throttle body and rev the engine. The needle on the voltmeter should jump when the engine revs. It won't go all the way to 5 volts, but you should see 2 to 2.5 whenver you rev it. If all this stuff happens, your MAF is fine, and you need to look for another cause.
Again, sorry for the flame, but somebody had to do it.
Somewhere in this thread somebody mentioned that you should check the wiring to the MAF before buying another. Too late for that, but while you're waiting I'd check it out anyway. Just unplug the MAF, turn on the ignition (no need to be running), and get your voltmeter out.
There are three terminals on the MAF. One is +12 that is on whenever the ignition is on. It's either yellow or red if I recall. That terminal supplies power to the MAF from the battery. #2 is a ground. You should show continuity between this (green or black) terminal and a good ground, like the - battery terminal. The third wire carries the 0 to +5 volt signal from the MAF to the ECU. The voltage is proportional to the mass of air entering your engine.
If the connector has the +12 power and a good ground, plug the MAF back in and start the car. Take a straight pin and stick it in the back of the plug (called back probing), and hook the voltmeter up. At idle, you should see 0.5 to 1 volt. If you see this voltage at idle, reach over to the throttle body and rev the engine. The needle on the voltmeter should jump when the engine revs. It won't go all the way to 5 volts, but you should see 2 to 2.5 whenver you rev it. If all this stuff happens, your MAF is fine, and you need to look for another cause.
Again, sorry for the flame, but somebody had to do it.
ll try from there.
A brand new maf is like $400 whereas the intake set-up was only like 50.
And to you....I don't "know everything about making an engine run good", but i'd like to know, but it's people like you 96gxe5spd that make people not want to even try cause you make them feel like crap for doing something that they could have done no problem, even if a little problem like this snags them. A Maf Sensor is sensitive, i know that, especially one that is 13 years old, so i got a new one, i don't care about the money, i just want to learn about cars and what makes them run well so i don't have to go a garage all the time wasting my money on labour..
Thanks for your input tho onthe voltage tho, i'll see what i can do....ugh
11-15-2008, 01:13 AM
#56
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Definetly Maf sensor. Mine was acting up. bought the CRC maf cleaner and cleaned it. but i think that the wiring on the side of the MAF had the biggest affect of it all. Is your MAF and Intake fastened? meaning not loose or moving at all? are the screws that hold you maf wiring on tight. did you open this at all?
11-16-2008, 09:35 AM
#57
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Definetly Maf sensor. Mine was acting up. bought the CRC maf cleaner and cleaned it. but i think that the wiring on the side of the MAF had the biggest affect of it all. Is your MAF and Intake fastened? meaning not loose or moving at all? are the screws that hold you maf wiring on tight. did you open this at all?
thanks
11-16-2008, 03:58 PM
#58
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update:
i put a new maf on and took the intake out..just put the stock one back in and it's good to go. As for now all i'm going to worry about is getting a differential bearing in my tranny fixed...thanks for everyones help
Maybe in th near future i'll try again
i put a new maf on and took the intake out..just put the stock one back in and it's good to go. As for now all i'm going to worry about is getting a differential bearing in my tranny fixed...thanks for everyones help
Maybe in th near future i'll try again
11-17-2008, 12:02 AM
#59
Should've replaced only one item at a time. Then you'd know who the real culprit is....
11-17-2008, 03:54 AM
#60
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It's is an Ebay one so i never expected it to be AWSOME or anything
Can anyone elses spin like mine does?
11-17-2008, 09:45 AM
#61
That is the only thing I replaced. I got a new maf from a 96', put it back stock and it ran fine. So, i must have been the Maf. I might try now to just take the Air box off leaving everything else attached and put the cone filter on and see if that works. It's weird tho, the filter I have is able to freely spin. It is secured to the rest of the intake but it is almost as if it is on a swivel of some kind.
It's is an Ebay one so i never expected it to be AWSOME or anything
Can anyone elses spin like mine does?
It's is an Ebay one so i never expected it to be AWSOME or anything
Can anyone elses spin like mine does?
Odds are, it was the MAF though.
11-19-2008, 11:11 AM
#64
ok, first of al, thanks alot. I try to get help, me not being a MECHANIC, but someone always got to say SOMETHING. If i plug my maf in it stalls upon idle, i don't have a voltmeter nor do i know anyone with one so that is out of the question, the CAI was only 50 bucks, if it causes so much trouble then i'll throw it out, I have a new maf ordered so i don't care. I'm hoping it will work and if not, then i'
ll try from there.
A brand new maf is like $400 whereas the intake set-up was only like 50.
And to you....I don't "know everything about making an engine run good", but i'd like to know, but it's people like you 96gxe5spd that make people not want to even try cause you make them feel like crap for doing something that they could have done no problem, even if a little problem like this snags them. A Maf Sensor is sensitive, i know that, especially one that is 13 years old, so i got a new one, i don't care about the money, i just want to learn about cars and what makes them run well so i don't have to go a garage all the time wasting my money on labour..
Thanks for your input tho onthe voltage tho, i'll see what i can do....ugh
ll try from there.
A brand new maf is like $400 whereas the intake set-up was only like 50.
And to you....I don't "know everything about making an engine run good", but i'd like to know, but it's people like you 96gxe5spd that make people not want to even try cause you make them feel like crap for doing something that they could have done no problem, even if a little problem like this snags them. A Maf Sensor is sensitive, i know that, especially one that is 13 years old, so i got a new one, i don't care about the money, i just want to learn about cars and what makes them run well so i don't have to go a garage all the time wasting my money on labour..
Thanks for your input tho onthe voltage tho, i'll see what i can do....ugh
I am not a profieesionally trained mechanic, but it's something you pick up driving a 300,000+ mile Maxima without enough money to pay someone else to work on it. I also run a performance and repair business focusing on late-model import drivetrains and suspensions. I surf the org to learn new things and help out when I can. But, sometimes helping involves a little smack down.
I'm sorry to assume that you had a voltmeter, but I would recommend (and most of the folks on the forum would agree) picking one up at some point since they're very useful for a lot of things, and they usually run around 10 or 15 bucks for a no-frills model. At the very least I would be sure and identify someone who is willing to loan you one for situations like you just got through. Sometimes even a auto parts store will loan you one for a deposit, but I don't know if they do that in Canada.
To answer your question about the intake swiveling, I've never seen one that moves around freely. It may do that for a reason, but I would bet the clamp holding the cone on the pipe is either loose or missing. Or shoot a picture showing how it moves, someone on the org will be able to figure it out. I make custom aluminum airboxes with K&N cone filters, and I make sure the filter is airtight to the pipe, because I am absolutely responsible for making sure everything works just right. If its not tight, air may be getting in around the filter.
If you can make sense out of the swivel thing, try putting the CAI on with the new MAF, and be careful with it. Post up on the org as soon as you see something is wrong, and before you try to fix it. Or PM me anytime, I may be a jerk, but I can do a lot of this stuff in my sleep and I'm always glad to be able to help.
12-05-2008, 02:17 AM
#66
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Also try looking to see if air is bypassing your MAF and leaking into your intake. Possible points could be IAC valve rubber hose, MAF sensor socket etc. with the MAF unplugged the engine will not rev beyond around 3000rpm. If you try go beyond that it will stumble.
12-05-2008, 04:46 AM
#67
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Like I said sorry to hate on you, but I'm genuinely glad you got it running. I just get a little impatient until I realize that while not everyone on here is a mechanic most people understand certain areas better than others. That's why we have the forum; so we can get together and help each other fill in the blanks.
I am not a profieesionally trained mechanic, but it's something you pick up driving a 300,000+ mile Maxima without enough money to pay someone else to work on it. I also run a performance and repair business focusing on late-model import drivetrains and suspensions. I surf the org to learn new things and help out when I can. But, sometimes helping involves a little smack down.
I'm sorry to assume that you had a voltmeter, but I would recommend (and most of the folks on the forum would agree) picking one up at some point since they're very useful for a lot of things, and they usually run around 10 or 15 bucks for a no-frills model. At the very least I would be sure and identify someone who is willing to loan you one for situations like you just got through. Sometimes even a auto parts store will loan you one for a deposit, but I don't know if they do that in Canada.
To answer your question about the intake swiveling, I've never seen one that moves around freely. It may do that for a reason, but I would bet the clamp holding the cone on the pipe is either loose or missing. Or shoot a picture showing how it moves, someone on the org will be able to figure it out. I make custom aluminum airboxes with K&N cone filters, and I make sure the filter is airtight to the pipe, because I am absolutely responsible for making sure everything works just right. If its not tight, air may be getting in around the filter.
If you can make sense out of the swivel thing, try putting the CAI on with the new MAF, and be careful with it. Post up on the org as soon as you see something is wrong, and before you try to fix it. Or PM me anytime, I may be a jerk, but I can do a lot of this stuff in my sleep and I'm always glad to be able to help.
I am not a profieesionally trained mechanic, but it's something you pick up driving a 300,000+ mile Maxima without enough money to pay someone else to work on it. I also run a performance and repair business focusing on late-model import drivetrains and suspensions. I surf the org to learn new things and help out when I can. But, sometimes helping involves a little smack down.
I'm sorry to assume that you had a voltmeter, but I would recommend (and most of the folks on the forum would agree) picking one up at some point since they're very useful for a lot of things, and they usually run around 10 or 15 bucks for a no-frills model. At the very least I would be sure and identify someone who is willing to loan you one for situations like you just got through. Sometimes even a auto parts store will loan you one for a deposit, but I don't know if they do that in Canada.
To answer your question about the intake swiveling, I've never seen one that moves around freely. It may do that for a reason, but I would bet the clamp holding the cone on the pipe is either loose or missing. Or shoot a picture showing how it moves, someone on the org will be able to figure it out. I make custom aluminum airboxes with K&N cone filters, and I make sure the filter is airtight to the pipe, because I am absolutely responsible for making sure everything works just right. If its not tight, air may be getting in around the filter.
If you can make sense out of the swivel thing, try putting the CAI on with the new MAF, and be careful with it. Post up on the org as soon as you see something is wrong, and before you try to fix it. Or PM me anytime, I may be a jerk, but I can do a lot of this stuff in my sleep and I'm always glad to be able to help.
12-20-2008, 03:21 PM
#71
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again i say, why not say something constructive instead of saying something taht helps no one on this forum?? Inturn you are a fail. Give some advise and not just negitive comments. That is why this forum is here in the 1st place, to HELP
12-20-2008, 05:56 PM
#72
Call me what you will but its really funny. Its one of the simplest mods and you messed it up. Sorry but I really thought the pic was a joke at 1st. Then I found this thread. I put the 2 together and yes you failed. I did fail to help you. So did every one else. To be nice I will spoon feed you. You have the intake installed backwards.
Its supposed to look like this:
Its supposed to look like this:
Last edited by JSutter; 12-21-2008 at 10:05 AM.
12-21-2008, 03:26 PM
#77
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i know i'm jumping in this a little late but you said that you have your maf unplugged and it's not throwing a code?!
That's a problem in itself, if you start the car with the maf disconnected it should throw a code, i know because i like always forget to plug it back in when i've been working
That's a problem in itself, if you start the car with the maf disconnected it should throw a code, i know because i like always forget to plug it back in when i've been working
12-21-2008, 04:48 PM
#78
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i know i'm jumping in this a little late but you said that you have your maf unplugged and it's not throwing a code?!
That's a problem in itself, if you start the car with the maf disconnected it should throw a code, i know because i like always forget to plug it back in when i've been working
That's a problem in itself, if you start the car with the maf disconnected it should throw a code, i know because i like always forget to plug it back in when i've been working
12-21-2008, 04:54 PM
#79
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My friend I had the same exact problem and it started after I installed the intake I also had the MAF unplugged. I suggest replacing the MAF. Check if you have any air or vacuum leaks, a dirty throttle body might cause the same thing.
