okay so i replaced my knock sensor......and the code is still there. did i do something wrong? all i did was actually replaced the sensor itself...ive read stuff about the subharness being the culprit..should i replace that then? besides replacing the actual sensor itself is there something else i need to do? like remove some ground or something to clear codes? btw ive driven the car close to 900mi after replacement. thanks
if it is the subharness is that dealership part only?
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Pop the cover to the right of the gas pedal. Behind that is a small box. On the firewall side of the box there is a screw covered by a label. Punch thru that w/ a small reg screwdriver and (with key ON) turn all the way to right(clock-wise), pause (It should actually blink ur code/s), then back (counter clock-wise). Check engine light should be on constant (normal). Start car. Light should turn off. Directions should be on the outside of the box on the label as well. Good luck!
but if the problem is fixed the ecu should clear codes by itself after running 40 cycles of self diagnostics...and i did drive nearly 900miles..thats a lot of cycles already..usually codes clear up after 50miles of driving...
unless a knock sensor code doesnt just go away by itself if the problem is fixed much like an o2 sensor code(if you replace the o2 sensor and fix it..the codes clear after driving some miles)...is this not the case for knock sensor codes?
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If you want a photo shoot of your car lemme know, im looking to expand my experience. I'm located in the minnesota twin cities area.
as for max kid.....i think they are the same...but im not too sure...
__________________
If you want a photo shoot of your car lemme know, im looking to expand my experience. I'm located in the minnesota twin cities area.
sometimes an 02 sensor can mess w/ a knock sensor. thats what i got in my car. Im getting a bank1? knock sensor and a bank1? o2 sensor code. Apparently nothing is wrong w/ either one of these parts, my computer is just messed up. Does that even seem possible?
Yes, agreed. I got the O2 sensor b4 but then went away w/ new KS. Popped up again when I fudged my MAF. Prob wouldnt hurt to replace ( I have a new one)....just havent worked up motivation to have at it.
hmm weird come to think about it...when the knock sensor first came on a little while after an o2 sensor came on...but the funny thing is, it was for the one i just replaced midsummer...but after a few days it went away and only the knock sensor remained...is this something i should be worried about?
anyways its been 50mi since the code clearing and its still clear of knock sensor codes...(cross fingers)
__________________
If you want a photo shoot of your car lemme know, im looking to expand my experience. I'm located in the minnesota twin cities area.
Pop the cover to the right of the gas pedal. Behind that is a small box. On the firewall side of the box there is a screw covered by a label. Punch thru that w/ a small reg screwdriver and (with key ON) turn all the way to right(clock-wise), pause (It should actually blink ur code/s), then back (counter clock-wise). Check engine light should be on constant (normal). Start car. Light should turn off. Directions should be on the outside of the box on the label as well. Good luck!
and clear the ground by the manifold before that. you might want to check the harness of the knock sensor too.
well all is reset...even the ground by the mani...and code free for 50mi now...and counting
__________________
If you want a photo shoot of your car lemme know, im looking to expand my experience. I'm located in the minnesota twin cities area.
__________________
If you want a photo shoot of your car lemme know, im looking to expand my experience. I'm located in the minnesota twin cities area.
well you would have to work backwards....three things needed for an engine air,fuel,spark....so start with air filter..is it clogged/is it hindering the engine from getting enough...are you getting enough fuel(resistance check on your injectors/are they supplying enough fuel)....spark plugs check if they're foul, do they need replacements...now if all those check out fine your relay switch could be malfunctioning...basically its like a regular switch that turns lights in your room on/off instead it turns all electrical components of your engine...usually found near the firewall in the engine bay...and are fairly cheap parts...a malfunctioning relay switch can have symptoms like: taking a few cranks to start, erratic starting, not starting at all. i believe a resistance check would do in checking them....i suggest referring to a fsm(not the chilton/haynes crap) i mean the factory service manual. go from there
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If you want a photo shoot of your car lemme know, im looking to expand my experience. I'm located in the minnesota twin cities area.
and clear the ground by the manifold before that. you might want to check the harness of the knock sensor too.
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