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Old 11-06-2008, 11:51 AM   #1
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Knock Sensor

Guys, you are my last hope.
I have a 99 calispec SE limited edition on stick shift and I love my baby.

I need to replace my knock sensor. I've searched a lot on this topic and found a few write ups on how to do this, such as:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507 and couple of others

But, I have tried it and it is absolutely impossible to do, the wrench simply doesn't fit in there and especially if it is a torque wrench (they so damn big).

Are there a Nissan technicians on this forum. I need full instructions on how would mechanic do this, because they all rate it as a 3-4 hour job at a price of $300 and up. One of them said it's a cuz you have to open up the manifolds.

Guys PLEASE help me with this issue I am in despair.

Last edited by Yankel.v; 11-06-2008 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:09 PM   #2
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its not bad at all. Why are you using a torque wrench? Use a combo box/open end one or a small ratchet. the bolt is 12mm. You have to remove the plastic air intake parts too. That is the snorkel, resonator and that. My friend has a 98 and he took off the one valve that sits right on the bottom of the hole. GL!
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:10 PM   #3
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:12 PM   #4
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i heard that 99 calispec had less room and very hard to do. on my 97 i just used a long extention, atleast 1foot and a 12mm socket flex http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools
i tried to use a universal swivel one but it was too tall and some1 here said to get the socket thats already was a 12mm and it worked great. remember to replace sub harness. Hope that help. Maybe some1 else with a 99 calispec can give you more detail.

*edit*
also get a extension magnate to pick up the bolt if it falls.

Last edited by maf2003111; 11-06-2008 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:18 PM   #5
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It is pretty easy. I changed mine for 5 minutes without cuts on my hands. If you live around me I would change it for you. Where are you located? You just loosen the bolt then put your hand in the well of the engine and take the KS with the bolt out. You put the new one in and tie it up. Do not forget to check the wire and clear the ground! Good luck
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Old 11-06-2008, 02:43 PM   #6
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I have huge hands....no way I could reach it. My girl was able to get in there. I have a CAI so I had plenty of room but it is a pisser to get the socket on the nut. She had to finagle it a bit. I followed the instructions that are posted on here already....no sweat. A Calispec might have more crap w/ the stock snorkel but I can't imagine where the KS is located. Not much room there to begin with. Good luck!

Btw, I used a uni swivel and 12" of extension. Had to SUPPORT the ext to get enough torque to free the nut.

Last edited by Madmax66; 11-06-2008 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 11-06-2008, 05:05 PM   #7
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How do I post photos. I uploaded them to the picasa galery, but I have trouble posting them here. Than I would show what exectly I am dealing with. As it is instructed I removed intake up to TB together with battery, also pulled couple of houses that where in a way, but still I can't imagine a possibility of fitting a hand there, even a small wrench is problematic.

So help me with uploading pics and we'll work from there.

Last edited by Yankel.v; 11-06-2008 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:41 PM   #8
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Changing a knock sensor is a pain in the ass, but can be done without removing upper intake manifold. I changed mine in about 45 min. Uninstalling the intake and piping with help you also.

To post pics make sure you have a [IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/www.asdadotcom [/ IMG] like that.

Last edited by petro2342; 11-06-2008 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 11-06-2008, 09:34 PM   #9
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Thanks

Thanks for that link on how to replace the knock sensor without yanking the intake. It was tight and I have about 5 cuts, but it only took 20-25 minutes.

On the test ride afterwards, already seeing improved performance and power.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-06-2008, 11:05 PM   #10
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Post pics Yankel...i know this day is coming soon for me.
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:16 AM   #11
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[IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/http://picasaweb.google.com/yashasland/KNockSensor#5265698078941019298[/ IMG]

Last edited by Yankel.v; 11-07-2008 at 07:20 AM.
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Old 11-07-2008, 08:37 AM   #12
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Ok, so haven't figured out how to post pictures yet, but here is the link to them:
http://picasaweb.google.com/yashasla...37698810036562


#1 is where I need to reach
#2 is what in my way (I don't even know what that is and can I safely remove it)
#3 is seemingly where #2 is mounted which is also tough to reach, but it is doable.

So what would you suggest guys?
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Old 11-07-2008, 08:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurzNite View Post
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tosheto View Post
It is pretty easy. I changed mine for 5 minutes without cuts on my hands. If you live around me I would change it for you. Where are you located? You just loosen the bolt then put your hand in the well of the engine and take the KS with the bolt out. You put the new one in and tie it up. Do not forget to check the wire and clear the ground! Good luck
How do I find regional forum. I am in upstate NY, Rockland County
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Old 11-07-2008, 08:54 AM   #14
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..you should be able to move #2 no problem, so long as you remember what you move and to put it back! Technicians will usually definately remove the manifolds, unless they have small hands! lol. Ive never done it on a 99 however, but my cali spec 96 was a breeze! Good luck!
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:34 AM   #15
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Remove #2, replace the knock sensor and put #2 back.
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tosheto View Post
It is pretty easy. I changed mine for 5 minutes without cuts on my hands. If you live around me I would change it for you. Where are you located? You just loosen the bolt then put your hand in the well of the engine and take the KS with the bolt out. You put the new one in and tie it up. Do not forget to check the wire and clear the ground! Good luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ420 View Post
..you should be able to move #2 no problem, so long as you remember what you move and to put it back! Technicians will usually definately remove the manifolds, unless they have small hands! lol. Ive never done it on a 99 however, but my cali spec 96 was a breeze! Good luck!
Can someone tell me what the #2 on my pic is, and what does it do?
and ones more, please explain me on example of my link how do I post a pic.
Thank you guys, you have awakened the hope in my eyes. I really appreciate it.
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:42 AM   #17
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I am in upstate NY, Rockland County
I'm in Pearl River, but I can't help you. I couldn't change mine either its pretty tough man, especially if you have big hands. Good luck though.
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:53 PM   #18
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I won't have time to do anything tomorrow, but I'll do it on Monday.

Can someone still explain me what is the thing #2 on my pic (there are 3 pictures there) and what does it do. And if there are any extra details on removing and reinstalling it that I should know.

Also please explain me what did I do wrong in one of my posts that my picture is not showing up.
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:57 PM   #19
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Can someone still explain me what is the thing #2
I don't know what that is, I have no experience with Cali Spec Maxi's. Shouldn't you have a Fed Spec anyway?
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Old 11-08-2008, 07:37 PM   #20
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I don't know what that is, I have no experience with Cali Spec Maxi's. Shouldn't you have a Fed Spec anyway?
Should have, could have, would have it's a different story but it is what it is.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:11 PM   #21
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I won't have time to do anything tomorrow, but I'll do it on Monday.

Can someone still explain me what is the thing #2 on my pic (there are 3 pictures there) and what does it do. And if there are any extra details on removing and reinstalling it that I should know.

Also please explain me what did I do wrong in one of my posts that my picture is not showing up.
I think it's pointing at the Power Valve Actuator
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:21 PM   #22
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If you have a bit of a zoomed out picture with arrows, I could tell more easily. It if is the PVA - and I'm pretty sure it is, you can remove it then put it back. It's probably easier though to remove the Upper intake Manifold Collector unit as a whole. Buy the gaskets and replace the Hex Bolts while your at it....very easy to do...and you have the torque wrench already.

The PVA is operated by vacuum that is stored in the surge tank..hence that small vacuum hose close to your arrow. You could symply remove vacuum hose if that would help, but I can't remember if the PVA can be removed without removing the Upper Intake Manifold Collector first....you need to look at the design. More photos needed.

The PVA works with the Power Valve Solenoid to control vacuum ON/OFF supply from Intake Manifold....of which the actual power valves are located inside the ITM.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:26 PM   #23
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By the way Yankel - it looks like one of your barbs in the photo is missing a vacuum hose. Not sure if you removed it for the photo or not.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:40 PM   #24
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By the way Yankel - it looks like one of your barbs in the photo is missing a vacuum hose. Not sure if you removed it for the photo or not.

Yes I did remove two hoses, one big and one small, nt for picture though but to free some space.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:55 PM   #25
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The problem with the PVA, is that I remember the fasteners on mine being extremely corroded - this is what was holding it to the Upper Intake Manifold...therefore to move IT out of the way, you would need to remove 'the lid' ...since IT is attached to 'the lid' maybe fused by rust.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:58 PM   #26
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If you have a bit of a zoomed out picture with arrows, I could tell more easily. It if is the PVA - and I'm pretty sure it is, you can remove it then put it back. It's probably easier though to remove the Upper intake Manifold Collector unit as a whole. Buy the gaskets and replace the Hex Bolts while your at it....very easy to do...and you have the torque wrench already.

The PVA is operated by vacuum that is stored in the surge tank..hence that small vacuum hose close to your arrow. You could simply remove vacuum hose if that would help, but I can't remember if the PVA can be removed without removing the Upper Intake Manifold Collector first....you need to look at the design. More photos needed.

The PVA works with the Power Valve Solenoid to control vacuum ON/OFF supply from Intake Manifold....of which the actual power valves are located inside the ITM.
I have uploaded a few more pics to the same place, just go there and scroll to the left or right(the button on top of the pic). Number 1,4 and 6 are better(zoomed out).

Also tell me about removing Upper intake Manifold Collector as a whole unit. And even more important how to put it back; what pressure do I need and in what order should I tighten the bolts. Preferably with pics. Also do I need to polish the connecting edge before putting the cover back (like in a head gasket case), or just wash it, close it back and tighten the screws?

BTW thank you guys, I really appreciate you help, I have already done so many things to my car, and at the same time saved so MUCH money $$$
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Old 11-08-2008, 09:04 PM   #27
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If you have a bit of a zoomed out picture with arrows, I could tell more easily. It if is the PVA - and I'm pretty sure it is, you can remove it then put it back. It's probably easier though to remove the Upper intake Manifold Collector unit as a whole. Buy the gaskets and replace the Hex Bolts while your at it....very easy to do...and you have the torque wrench already.

The PVA is operated by vacuum that is stored in the surge tank..hence that small vacuum hose close to your arrow. You could symply remove vacuum hose if that would help, but I can't remember if the PVA can be removed without removing the Upper Intake Manifold Collector first....you need to look at the design. More photos needed.

The PVA works with the Power Valve Solenoid to control vacuum ON/OFF supply from Intake Manifold....of which the actual power valves are located inside the ITM.
This is the gasket that I need, right? Do I need all of them or just the top one on a picture? Also does the brand matter, should I bother getting the Nissan original or just get any(cheapest)?
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Old 11-08-2008, 09:04 PM   #28
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OK I'll check those photos - I can walk you through removing the Upper Intake - it's very easy - but in the mean time you have to locate the PDF FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your model, download it, and locate to the area I will tell you. Do you have the location of where these PDFs are stored?

This is the bible that most of the 3rd gen guys work from - it's all you need to dismantle your car piece by piece. Reason I checked your post is I have to change my KS too, but i'm removing the engine soon, so i'll just do it then - it's way easier when it's out of the car.
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