Bleeding brakes which caliper first discrepencies
10-06-2008, 07:19 PM
#1
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Bleeding brakes which caliper first discrepencies
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...ll-around.html
So i'm searching on how to bleed the brake calipers since i'm goign to replace all 4. I've had too much hassle with rotors, hubs, and seized caliper brackets and calipers that i'm going to do all four and get it over with once and for all.
So i searched and found that you're suppose disconnect the negative battery and the fuse to the abs. Ok got that. but then in terms of bleeding them in certain ways, it seems that everyone has a different system.
4th gen forums
Left rear, Front right, Front left, and then Right rear.
But then i read somewhere
3rd gen forums
right rear, left front, left rear, right front.
5th gen,
right rear, left rear, right front, left front??
All i know is that its suppose to be the farthest caliper first, then work your way to the closest. So then shouldn't this be, right rear, left rear, right front, left front??
I've found this thread,
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ed-brakes.html
Post #3 says
"you want to bleed your brakes starting from the rear passenger side, rear driver side, front passenger side and finish with the front driver side"
Post #4 says
"bleeding order:
RR --> LF --> LR --> "
Post #5 says
Found a proper order in Max service manual R rear > L front > L rear > R front
Link in post number 5 says
"Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)"
A lot of people are saying that bleeding brakes is NOT maxima specific and google it. Well, i have, and its still not clear. I just want to do it once and be done. So in this case, how am i suppose to properly bleed my 98 i30?? Follow the 5th gen max manual? I don't have the actual manual so i'm looking for some clarification.
Anyhelp is appreciated!!!
also, when i take off the brake lines to put the new calipers on, should i clamp the lines down before hand to minimize the amount of air that can get into the system? or should i just let all the fluid drain down into a pan
So i'm searching on how to bleed the brake calipers since i'm goign to replace all 4. I've had too much hassle with rotors, hubs, and seized caliper brackets and calipers that i'm going to do all four and get it over with once and for all.
So i searched and found that you're suppose disconnect the negative battery and the fuse to the abs. Ok got that. but then in terms of bleeding them in certain ways, it seems that everyone has a different system.
4th gen forums
Left rear, Front right, Front left, and then Right rear.
But then i read somewhere
3rd gen forums
right rear, left front, left rear, right front.
5th gen,
right rear, left rear, right front, left front??
All i know is that its suppose to be the farthest caliper first, then work your way to the closest. So then shouldn't this be, right rear, left rear, right front, left front??
I've found this thread,
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ed-brakes.html
Post #3 says
"you want to bleed your brakes starting from the rear passenger side, rear driver side, front passenger side and finish with the front driver side"
Post #4 says
"bleeding order:
RR --> LF --> LR --> "
Post #5 says
Found a proper order in Max service manual R rear > L front > L rear > R front
Link in post number 5 says
"Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)"
A lot of people are saying that bleeding brakes is NOT maxima specific and google it. Well, i have, and its still not clear. I just want to do it once and be done. So in this case, how am i suppose to properly bleed my 98 i30?? Follow the 5th gen max manual? I don't have the actual manual so i'm looking for some clarification.
Anyhelp is appreciated!!!
also, when i take off the brake lines to put the new calipers on, should i clamp the lines down before hand to minimize the amount of air that can get into the system? or should i just let all the fluid drain down into a pan
Last edited by ImmaSquashYou; 10-06-2008 at 07:27 PM.
10-06-2008, 08:23 PM
#3
the idea historically is to do the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. There are some who say to take into account where the ABS pump is, but I haven't had issues doing it RR LR RF LF, so go figure.
10-07-2008, 12:04 AM
#5
From my 97 FSM:
Bleeding Brake System
CAUTION:
Carefully monitor brake fluid level at master cylinder during
bleeding operation.
Fill reservoir with new brake fluid “DOT 3”. Make sure it is
full at all times while bleeding air out of system.
Place a container under master cylinder to avoid spillage
of brake fluid.
For models with ABS, turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect
ABS actuator connectors or battery ground cable.
Bleed air in the following order.
Right rear brake , Left front brake , Left rear brake , Right
front brake
1. Connect a transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve.
2. Fully depress brake pedal several times.
3. With brake pedal depressed, open air bleeder valve to release air.
4. Close air bleeder valve.
5. Release brake pedal slowly.
6. Repeat steps 2. through 5. until clear brake fluid comes out of air bleeder valve.
Bleeding Brake System
CAUTION:
Carefully monitor brake fluid level at master cylinder during
bleeding operation.
Fill reservoir with new brake fluid “DOT 3”. Make sure it is
full at all times while bleeding air out of system.
Place a container under master cylinder to avoid spillage
of brake fluid.
For models with ABS, turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect
ABS actuator connectors or battery ground cable.
Bleed air in the following order.
Right rear brake , Left front brake , Left rear brake , Right
front brake
1. Connect a transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve.
2. Fully depress brake pedal several times.
3. With brake pedal depressed, open air bleeder valve to release air.
4. Close air bleeder valve.
5. Release brake pedal slowly.
6. Repeat steps 2. through 5. until clear brake fluid comes out of air bleeder valve.
10-07-2008, 04:52 AM
#6
Standard operating procedure has always been start at the farhest wheel from the master and work your way to the closest,like inernetautomar said.
about clamping the lines...you can, however be very careful not to crush the lines too bad.actually any amount is bad but I have been known to do it myself.I just do it real light .like as soon as I feel the hose touch together i stop. i dont put any "pressure" on the line.
hope this helps.
oh yeh, its important to work the pedal in a slow,constant motion as opposed to pumping the hell out of it,this prevents the air from turning to foam in the system...which can be harder to get rid of.
about clamping the lines...you can, however be very careful not to crush the lines too bad.actually any amount is bad but I have been known to do it myself.I just do it real light .like as soon as I feel the hose touch together i stop. i dont put any "pressure" on the line.
hope this helps.
oh yeh, its important to work the pedal in a slow,constant motion as opposed to pumping the hell out of it,this prevents the air from turning to foam in the system...which can be harder to get rid of.
10-07-2008, 06:46 AM
#7
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i mean...i understand that its SUPPOSE to be right rear, left rear, right front, and left front. But i think i'm going to go with what the FSM has said. I know that both ways doesn't seem to have a problem when people are doing it that way. If there is, can soemoen chime in and let me know??!!! But as far as pumping the brakes slowly, WILL DO!! i have all new calipers and i have speed bleeders on all of them.
10-07-2008, 08:08 AM
#9
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woot!!! i think you just answered my question!!! i know that we do run two brake lines, but wasn't really sure how they were ran. So you have just concluded to why the FSM says to do it rear right, front left, rear left, front right. thanks a lot!!!
10-07-2008, 08:18 AM
#10
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 59
it really doesn't matter how you do it. you are already ahead of the game for the fact that you are doing it. Just do all 4 corners and you should be good. If you have a clutch, now would be a good time to exchange the fluid in that as well if it is old.
10-07-2008, 09:18 AM
#11
Don't listen to what others have written in forum postings.
Generally speaking, order isn't too critical if you're using a proper bleed technique and you don't mind using extra fluid. I always bleed until I've used up the fluid bottle that I opened that day, because the extra has to be thrown away regardless.
Dave
10-07-2008, 09:21 AM
#12
Listen to this ^.
Don't listen to what others have written in forum postings.
Generally speaking, order isn't too critical if you're using a proper bleed technique and you don't mind using extra fluid. I always bleed until I've used up the fluid bottle that I opened that day, because the extra has to be thrown away regardless.
Dave
Don't listen to what others have written in forum postings.
Generally speaking, order isn't too critical if you're using a proper bleed technique and you don't mind using extra fluid. I always bleed until I've used up the fluid bottle that I opened that day, because the extra has to be thrown away regardless.
Dave
Personally, when in doubt, follow the FSM.
10-07-2008, 09:50 AM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 251
The order to bleed the calipers does not really matter, it is a single line anyway, one caliper will seem to bleed slower than the other, depending on how far it is from master cylinder, but the order of doing it does not matter.
Regarding pinching the brake hose, that's not necessary, air WILL get in no matter what you do, and ther is air in the caliper itself already. Replace shot caliper, screw banjo bolt in place, do not forget new copper washers on BOTH sides of the bolt, they usually come with the remanned caliper. I am not sure if you done calipers before, there is a proper procedure for so-called "big brake job", that includes cleaning and lubing guides and pins, replacing rubber sleeves, replacing retaining clips, etc.
Also, I suggest a vacuum pump to replace brake fluid, it should be done every 2 years anyway, followed by the "pedal" bleeding method.
Regarding pinching the brake hose, that's not necessary, air WILL get in no matter what you do, and ther is air in the caliper itself already. Replace shot caliper, screw banjo bolt in place, do not forget new copper washers on BOTH sides of the bolt, they usually come with the remanned caliper. I am not sure if you done calipers before, there is a proper procedure for so-called "big brake job", that includes cleaning and lubing guides and pins, replacing rubber sleeves, replacing retaining clips, etc.
Also, I suggest a vacuum pump to replace brake fluid, it should be done every 2 years anyway, followed by the "pedal" bleeding method.
10-07-2008, 09:56 AM
#14
10-07-2008, 10:04 AM
#15
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Posts: 251
10-07-2008, 10:29 AM
#16
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i'm not sure if i have the copper washers on the remanufactured. Going to have to check and make sure that there are some for the banjo bolt. I'm going to have to check the reataining clip bag that came with it. If not, is this a dealer part or can i just go to home depot and get regular washers??
I ordered the a-1 cardone from rockauto's website. The one's i've ordered are the ones that come with the new mounting bracket and hardware kit. So i shouldn't have to clean and relube the guide pins.
As far as the vacumn pump to replace all the fluid, can't i just pump the brake pedal until i see clean fluid? I've spent over $600-$700 on my car this month alone in regards to replacing my window because someone broke in, to getting new calipers, both rear bearings, and new pads and rotors. If i can get away with just pumping the brakes more, i'd rather just do that since i didn't see that autozone has the vacumn pump for rent.
And i will take the advice from all the OP's, i will be doing it how the FSM mentions.
I ordered the a-1 cardone from rockauto's website. The one's i've ordered are the ones that come with the new mounting bracket and hardware kit. So i shouldn't have to clean and relube the guide pins.
As far as the vacumn pump to replace all the fluid, can't i just pump the brake pedal until i see clean fluid? I've spent over $600-$700 on my car this month alone in regards to replacing my window because someone broke in, to getting new calipers, both rear bearings, and new pads and rotors. If i can get away with just pumping the brakes more, i'd rather just do that since i didn't see that autozone has the vacumn pump for rent.
And i will take the advice from all the OP's, i will be doing it how the FSM mentions.
10-07-2008, 10:34 AM
#17
i'm not sure if i have the copper washers on the remanufactured. Going to have to check and make sure that there are some for the banjo bolt. I'm going to have to check the reataining clip bag that came with it. If not, is this a dealer part or can i just go to home depot and get regular washers??
I ordered the a-1 cardone from rockauto's website. The one's i've ordered are the ones that come with the new mounting bracket and hardware kit. So i shouldn't have to clean and relube the guide pins.
As far as the vacumn pump to replace all the fluid, can't i just pump the brake pedal until i see clean fluid? I've spent over $600-$700 on my car this month alone in regards to replacing my window because someone broke in, to getting new calipers, both rear bearings, and new pads and rotors. If i can get away with just pumping the brakes more, i'd rather just do that since i didn't see that autozone has the vacumn pump for rent.
And i will take the advice from all the OP's, i will be doing it how the FSM mentions.
I ordered the a-1 cardone from rockauto's website. The one's i've ordered are the ones that come with the new mounting bracket and hardware kit. So i shouldn't have to clean and relube the guide pins.
As far as the vacumn pump to replace all the fluid, can't i just pump the brake pedal until i see clean fluid? I've spent over $600-$700 on my car this month alone in regards to replacing my window because someone broke in, to getting new calipers, both rear bearings, and new pads and rotors. If i can get away with just pumping the brakes more, i'd rather just do that since i didn't see that autozone has the vacumn pump for rent.
And i will take the advice from all the OP's, i will be doing it how the FSM mentions.
If they didn't come with washers, you can usually find them at auto parts stores. If you want to get it from the dealer, the part number is 46237-A4600, $0.60 each at Courtesy.
You can bleed them via the regular method, the brake pedal if you either have a helper, speed bleeders, or rig up something to work. All you really need is a bottle, some (preferably clear) hose, and some extra new brake fluid.
Last edited by pmohr; 10-07-2008 at 10:37 AM.
10-08-2008, 03:08 PM
#19
I'm sorry if this was answered earlier in the posts but there just seemed like waaaay to many answers. On any system you always bleed from the furthest point to the closest. I have a 95 Max where the brake master cylinder is located on the driver's side. This means that it gets bled in this order: Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, Front Left. This way ensures that all of the air is removed from the system and is the essential way to go if you are replacing all 4 calipers.
10-08-2008, 03:12 PM
#20
I'm sorry if this was answered earlier in the posts but there just seemed like waaaay to many answers. On any system you always bleed from the furthest point to the closest. I have a 95 Max where the brake master cylinder is located on the driver's side. This means that it gets bled in this order: Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, Front Left. This way ensures that all of the air is removed from the system and is the essential way to go if you are replacing all 4 calipers.
Not necessarily on any system. I've bled both ways (Z33/V35 have the same bleed sequence in the FSM as A32) and noticed no difference. Personally, I'll keep doing it how the FSM says, Nissan specifically noted it (and still does) for a reason.
10-08-2008, 03:35 PM
#21
actually both ways are essentially the same .
because of the "opposite wheel" set up(by this i mean one line off the master works the LF wheel and RR wheel together ,and the other line operates the RF and LR together) then you are actually bleeding the farthest wheel from the system either way.its like two seperate systems as far as bleeding goes.
hope that makes since LOL!
because of the "opposite wheel" set up(by this i mean one line off the master works the LF wheel and RR wheel together ,and the other line operates the RF and LR together) then you are actually bleeding the farthest wheel from the system either way.its like two seperate systems as far as bleeding goes.
hope that makes since LOL!
10-08-2008, 05:09 PM
#22
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damn!! i never thought about it that way!!! ahhhh!!! anyhow, i'm just going to follow the asm..gonna put my car on 4 jack stands and ask one of my skinny girly friends to pump the brakes for me..-= )
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