pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Indeed.

Love_00_Max

Well said, there are many items that is considered normal maintenance, and the list above collectively captures all. I will add one more to this that being regular flushes of tranny and PS systems via the return lines. Coolant replacement should always be flushes with OEM coolant.

1chewabacha1

iTrader: (6)

Really? So I'm the idiot who destroyed my A/C Compressor all winter by turning on the front defroster even though my motor had not warmed up!

Lols. I'm the noob obviously! Learn something different/new everyday. Thanks for the correction.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you do not destroy your compressor by using it. compressors have a finite lifespan to begin with. Not using the compressor could however shorten your life span.

Tight_Whip

My 1998 Maxima, is sitting at 78,000(almost), bought it back in 2003 with 37,000. Its been from Alaska to NewYork (everything inbetween literally 6k miles) and Florida (its home). Guess you could say it has seen hell and back, but its still riding very well.

I had to replace CV joints (which seems to be a normal one for us)
My transmission (my fault, messing around with stuff I shouldnt have)
and soon, but needed now, my suspension. (looks like I have Hydrolics)

CV Joints
Transmission
Suspension

crash_landing

iTrader: (1)

95 SE 5spd

96k - purchased from original owner. changed all fuilds, cleaned grounds, lubed brake slides. CHANGED TRANNY FLUID.

-clutch
-tires

110k

-6 coil packs and plugs, not needed, found real misfire problem at 115k
-knock sensor, did not need harness. 50$

115k

-2 belts and a crank dampener
-one fuel injector <100$ (autozone)
-rear passenger window track, someone tried to break in by forcing window down. plactic clip broke and jammed cable.. yay cheap plastic saved my car <70$ (nissan)

125k

-replaced original exhaust with cattman SS catback (expensive). original muffler rotted out at pipe joint(typical)
-replaced crank pos sensor by oil drain. <100$ (nissan part)
-cv boots, both about 20$
-replaced front brake pads and rotors. (stuck slide caused one side to wear faster, should have got another year out of them, rears have half pad left)

currently needs, my header and ypipe installed. battery. and paint on window beams/jams, paint on sunroof area, and paint on control arm to inhibit some slight rust. and a good clean/detail

paid 4k almost 4 years ago.. not once did she not start and get me where I needed in a timely fashion. never stranded, never died, and all averaging 25-30mpg. got 32 this summer on a long highway trip with cruise. god i heart jap cars

Phaedrus220

iTrader: (4)

I try to take the opportunity to upgrade when the original parts fail, in large part thanks to the opportunities & resources on this forum – the price difference from what I spend is quite reasonable, compared to the horror stories I hear from co-workers and their dealer/shop repair bills :

180k 99 SE-L:

coil packs (had the blinking on WOT, bought used 98s from the .org)
exhaust (replaced with Cattman Y and stainless cat-back, fast cat)
ebrake cable
struts (replaced with progress coilovers)
knock sensor
all O2 sensors
front calipers
alternator (just a major PITA job)
idler pulley (belt tensioner)
clutch slave cylinder
both cv joints (upgraded to Raxles)
tie rods / ends
a/c fan circuit board
lower control arms

some mods work for maintainance items, eg: 300 zx fuel filter for stock; re-oil the popcharger vs. replacing air filters; poly motor mounts / bushings for rubber oem.

soon I fear, steering rack (have a full one inch play right now), which will rival the cost of a new clutch / install, also soon I fear.


edit - now at 190k, new clutch (upgraded to the 2k Max pp, thanks to DaveB once again!) and replaced exhaust hangars with Walker hangars (SS cat back had weighed the OEM hangars, thanks to Cattman for the part recommendation); also plugs and front pads.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

check your rack mounting bushings

jd885

my 99 has 190K on it and i just sold it to my cousin... i have replaced almost the whole front end once (Control arms, sway bars links, axles, struts, strut mounts) The biggest thing i replaced was the tranny when it had 166K on it... and it is still tickin runs 100%

TrueKnight

1997 GLE? I just got it a month ago. I don't think it had any previous repairs but currently at 160k miles, it needs:

O2 Sensor Replacement to clear CEL - Done
Crankshaft Position Sensor Ref - Currently Working On to clear CEL
Right front CV boot? (It makes a squeeking noise when driving) - Someday

Other than that it runs great.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

You guys are cute.

209K hard miles.

Transmission at 192k
Clutch a few times but there is something strange with my car that makes them fail prematurely, like a very slightly bent crank after the main bearing/seal or a fawked flywheel or something.
radiator support and consequently radiator, but that was sort of my fault
Starter more than once
Few bulbs here and there
Inner tie rod
Passenger side Raxle due to lowering

The rest are pretty much normal wear items i.e. brakes (pads and rotors), serpentine belt, lots and lots of oil, lots of tires, wheel bearings (never the rears so far though in my 60k miles of ownership), plugs recently, and just replaced the bose HU.

I have:
an alarm sensor that trips itself randomly
a headlight that wouldn't turn on (fixed with retrofit, possibly a fuse but I didn't even bother)
parasitic drain somewhere that's pulling an extra 70mA from my battery
a CEL from an IAT sensor that lost its harness retainer clip
a noisy AC clutch bearing, I wound up bypassing the AC with a smaller belt for now

That's all I can think of at this point. Also my car was well maintained up to me (full synthetic every 3k, etc) and I'd like to think I continue that trend.

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

293,000 miles, bought used with 65,000
replaced starter
on second tranny/third clutch
original shocks/struts-not bouncing but ride IS getting rougher
5th Gen 17" wheels
misc bulbs
sunroof rebuild
EGR cleaning
three spark plug changes
front wheel bearings, CV outer tie rods (may have to break all that down again tho...)
everything else is pretty much original
almost sold it, but was glad the dude didn't come back for it!

kevinoseguera99

iTrader: (4)

bought mine used from a nissan dealer at 136,000 miles on it, 96 black gle , now it has 160,000 miles

things i've fixed or replaced in maintanence
change oil every 3000 miles wit 10w30 mobil full synthetic
k&n drop in replacement air filter
drain and refil auto trany fluid, i think i need it rebuilt or replaced though because it kicks when it goes from first to second gear, ( let me know if this has happend to you )
changed right cv axle because of clicking noise
replaced fuel pump TWICE on car because it was hard to start and would turn off sometims, eventually found out the coolant temp sensor was the problem lol
changed that sensor obviosly
changed the KNOCK sensor, that thing took half a day to do
replaced radiator cuz it had a leak on the very top with a used one,
flushed rad fluid at the same time
replaced all brake pads and hardware, also the front rotors, then bleed the brakes, feels so much better now lol
ngk original platinum plugs,
replaced rear strut shocks THREE times
changed out front sway bar bracked bushing with performance poly one
change starter out with rebuilt one
change battery to YELLOW OPTIMA, battery is awesome, works really well for my 4000 Watt system lol
BIG 3 wiring
changed MAP sensor cuz i broke it taking out the intake to get to the starter lol, hated it
pcv valve
change rear tires, changed one twice cuz it had a bubble on it, i thought something happend to my rear suspension lol, but just got another tire lol

things i still gotta do
valve cover gasket, its leaking some from there
change belts, havent done it since i got the car
maybe change tranny

cosmetic work done
changed front end and trunk to a 98
change left fender cuz i got into a lil accident lol
got clear corner lights
got red and white lights in back
hids in the headlights, just 6500K
still trying to get the fog lights hid, there off now
5% tint all over, changed front to 20% though cuz i got a $300 DOLLAR TICKET for them
gotta change rear bumper to a 98 one cuz ive been rear ended twice already
alpine indash, infinity kappa speakers all over, connected to alpine f300 amp, two kicker cvx 12's in probox with hifonics 2000 watts rms amp running at one ohm, all installed myself
got the 16 inch se rims when i changed the front end
put on some BIG 22 INCH RIMS with the 245 30 22 tire and lifted front and back 1.5 inched with lefters from autozone, with some minor triming in front so i could turn lol, but had them for only a month, car ran suprisingly good with the rims, regardless of wat people said,
still gotta do some body work on the doors from accident, gonna do myself cuz if you want somethin done right, then u gotta do them yourself lol
then repaint the whole car original black color
gonna get the 6th gen 18 inch rims for it, just so it can have that clean look, not goin back to 22's lol

car runs really good, but knocks alot everytime i turn it on, dont know if its common or not, let me know



riding stock now

jcunion413

99 SE Limited w/ 199k (as of this week)
other than normal maintance (oil, tires, brakes, filters, plugs)

2 Starters
2 Half Shaft Axels
1 Wheel bearings Assembly (sorry can't think of technical name. As in inner and outter race and what they roll against)
1 Idler pully tensioner bolt (yea I over torqued it)
1 Radiator
1 EGR Valve

I still need to replace
Coil Packs
And w/e is wrong with my Climate Control.

And I just replaced it's factory battery about 15k miles ago

All in all not bad for knocking on 200k and I'm a pretty aggressive driver

jasonaaronfox

Car was dead when bought at 148k for $350.
95 max se

both heads shaved
cat converter was stopped up; a pipe shoved through it a few times so nicely fixed this
water pump
spark plugs and wires
front timing cover
new battery
tons of hoses
radiator
passenger a control arm
front motor mount
rear main seal had to be softened
still need to replace my heater core; the nozzles broke off it

I think I should have rebuilt the block; sometimes it acts like I have a blown ring. n00b mistake on a budget, oh well; save up for a vq35 swap! ^__^

whitemax99

test

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

bought my 1995 max in may of 1995

I had a short *** commute for the first 6 years of ownership, and thus only had put on 30k or so miles in the first 6 years and even the last 7 years has a short commute .

at 450 miles under warranty had a speaker replaced,

in 2002 had to put a new ignition switch in.
2003 one of the window regulators took a crap 65bucks all better
december 2004 changed fuel filter just for the hell of it.
in 2005 had both CV axles replaced
2005 check engine on for evap can vent purge controll valve. the fix lasted 1 month so f it. i still get 22mpg city/highway so dont care.
in 2006 had to re grease factory starter
2007 changed all belts and hoses just in case
later that year changed both the front and rear brake pads for first time.
2008 factory 8 tooth gear starter finally died ,replaced with 10tooth and all is great again.
the Tach has been acting up for the last couple years.
the car has almost 60k miles now after 13 years so and runs great.

DCP

iTrader: (15)

I bought my 98 I30 with 98k on it, I currently have 119k. In the past 2 years ive replaced the following:

Radiator core support
Spark plugs (NGK Iridium)
Serpentine belts
both front CV axles
entire exhaust, (Warpseed Y, Magnaflow Cat, Pacesetter B-pipe, Dynomax thrush turbo muffler)
all 02 sensors
Knock Sensor
Cam Position Sensor
Starter
Right rear caliper and rotor
Brake pads front and rear
K&N air filter
Driver Side Mirror, (the aluminum that the bolts go into had corroded to dust)
Tires
Battery
Evap Pressure Sensor
Charcoal Canister
fuel filter


My inspection is due in december, and so far its looking like im gonna have to replace:
steering rack mount bushings,
Ball Joints,
Outer Tie rod ends,
Trans Mount maybe..

Aside from the parts ive replaced, ive done regular oil changes. Most recently i drained and refilled the ATF, what a difference that made!

Future plans will likely be a new paintjob, and some suspension upgrades.

Madmax66

Well, I too am an original owner of my 95SE. I've been in lust since day 1 and my only gripes were the sloppy handling (too many proj cars before her, poor braking, and A/C that just could'nt keep up on a hot day. I was only too happy to learn from the guru's here...and upgrade the suspension and brakes. Some tint helped the AC.

Maintenance-wise, most of the usual stuff on here already...normal wear and tear items...axles bout 120K or so but, one snapped on a late night of "spirited" back road driving. The garage replaced 3 different times (all leaked BADLY) until I went to a tranny shop. I replaced the starter and the rotted stock muffler(cat back) last year as well. I replaced an 02 sensor that I botched when swappin out the Y pipe in 01', did the KS recently w/ the help of my hot live-in (thanks again to the org for that....garages wanted madd $$ for labor)! And the tensioner was replaced gratis when I left the garage replace the serpentine I also had to have some emissions thing replaced in left rear corner by gas tank to pass emissions in 05'...that was a few hunsky's A rear caliper locked up and warped the rotor at about 100K.

Other than that, just good gas, regular oil changes, a lil TLC and she still runs like a champ, 27-30 mpg round town...pushin 165K.

Per yesterdays post, my fr rt tokico has officially taken a dump...replacing fr struts w/ Monroe gas matics. Found online for $60/ ea but may just pick up at Advanced Auto for $63+tx....they let you "rent" compr. clamps for $53 and give you a FULL refund upon return.

madoka

I've got 240,000 miles on my 95. The big one was getting a new transmission. True story - my transmission died the day after I got an IS F to eventually replace the old girl. I told my friend that it was like she was jealous. He said it was probably more like she saw her replacement and decided she could finally rest.

Other things were fairly minor outside of a new front axle and radiator.

Sentientbydesig

My I30 was sold at 280k miles.

Repairs:

Timing chain cover leak
2 Radiators (my fault for letting the fan die)
1 Radiator Fan
Front and Rear Struts (lowered suspension)
Brakes, Brakes, and more Brakes
Lower Control Arm Bushings
Bose Head Unit

The Rear axle bushings needed to be replaced, but I sold the car as-is. The exhaust also had a leak and the valves chattered.

The car is still on the road with a slight Evap issue.

nissanmax97

i keep up with the car reg maintenance bought with 113000 miles last year im past 120000 mark only change the clutch master cylinder

mike98i30

Bought my 98 with 138k now has 142k. The previous owner left all the reciepts and looks like she bought into every recommended service from the quick lube (needed or not) so I feel pretty good about the cars condition

nafddur

I wouldn't feel good about the condition of a car serviced by any quick lube place - much less if the services weren't needed in the first place. I've heard way too many horror stories about the quality of work done in those places.

ck4x4

iTrader: (2)

Ya I'm thinking he meant to say the front one....

I can hear my car "struggle" a bit when I turn on the rear defroster at idle lol.



Edit - sorry guys, didn't see page 2 of this thread...

wesnine

iTrader: (2)

I guess my 5th gen fits in this category...

My 01 GLE just topped 100k. Seems like the 100k threshold is indeed a jinx. Currently have about 100,600 and in the last month have had:

1. MAF sensor
2. Battery - only got two years out of pvs battery.
3. Alternator - only got two years out of pvs alternator.
4. Idler Pulley
5. Tranny flush
6. Serpentine belt

I took the Max in to my Toyota dealer for a possible trade at about 96k and the sales mgr was going to give me 2000 above Kelly BB value for a trade and I decided no. He then said at over 100k their trade dips considerably. I love the car and baby it but I guess the flood gates are opening for repairs. I know suspension is next but it just seems to be all hitting at once.

Not to mention when I just got the car back from the Alt/idler pulley repair the SES light is now on and there seems to be a belt squeaking more than it was prior to the idler pulley being replaced. The whine was bad but now it is a different sound and appears to be worse, they rammed me on the price, also. Taking it back to mechanic this weekend. I know the below zero temps dont help but seriously...

I am driving this car for the long haul but it needs to be easier on me!

dontae

iTrader: (2)

1995 auto 321,777 oh boi dont know where to start on what ive done or havent done... 4 starters in 4months, Need resistor for the blower motor.Just got REtinted for the 3rd time.Heated seats havent worked in the past 3 winters.But still holds its oune ground.

96gxe5spd

iTrader: (1)

You really kinda stole my thunder. Mine's got between 320 and 330k, I may have mistakenly posted 350 somewhere on the org cause I messed up the mileage when I replaced the cluster. I bought it in early 2003 with about 150k on the clock. I have done all of the maint and repair work except for a few oil changes. I have autocrossed, drag raced, pulled trailers (sometimes 2000 lbs or more) and generally beat the snot out of this car, and it just takes it and asks for more.

Here's what I recall doing:

Clutch not long after I bought it ~155k, about to need another

Slave cylinder leaking ~180

Inst cluster ~185

Axles (may have been done by PO, too) ~180

Starters, first @ around 200, and around every 40k therafter (next time I will get one with lifetime warranty)

Shocks, first OE @ 160k, then KYB AGX at around 250k, they are dam near gone again also replaced strut bearings at that time.

Wheel bearings and ball joints at 180k

Ignition switch @ 230k

Rear calipers due to sticking e-brake around 310k.

Rack and pinion mount bushings not too long ago (Phaedrus220--this WILL take care of the slop in the steering).

Water pump @ around 250k

A handful of sensors (KS, MAP, MAF, IAT come to mind)

Charge up the AC every couple of summers.

All those and of course the regular maintenance items like tires, batteries, oil and filters, air filters, etc.

Here is my list that needs to get done in the next little while:

New Clutch and transmission replace or rebuild, IPS is really noisy, esp when cold. I'd like to do limited slip and light flywheel if financials allow.

Shocks, as mentioned

Exhaust is swiss cheese from rust--may be retiring from regular street use so custom fabbed y-pipe back may be the solution.

Antenna mast is gone, only 30 bucks to replace but I live close enough to town that everything I listen to picks up fine, but a pain when covering more distance.

New windsheild (after this many miles its AMAZING how much better you can see through a new windsheild--they get tiny little chips that make it harder to see)

Need new or filled motor mounts, radiator mount bushings too.

New window motor for pass side rear (never use this anyway, may not fix).

Also needs 2 new driveshafts, prolly do those when I do the tranny

redwagon29

iTrader: (2)

Bought 3 years ago @ 114k now at 155k. Let me think of everything that we have done to it since then...

Belts replaced @ 120k ish

New clutch @ 130k ish
Rear calipers done around same time
Spark plugs & 1 coil pack (we broke trying to do plugs) same time
Both axles (due to bad CV joints) around 130-140 k
Fuel filter (preventative maint) @ 145 k
KS and O2 replaced @ 150 k
Front calipers done @ 155 k

Those are all the big things I can think of....

Had to replace the lines for the clutch fluid after a slow leak that lasted about 2000 miles to empty the reservoir. Replaced the e-brake cable as well at the same time as the rear calipers/brakes were done.

Replaced both front headlights with in a week of each other (glad I didn't drive around w/ the first pdiddle for long or I would've been screwed!) that was sometime in 2006.

Can't think of anything else right now off the top of my head ..

Jeffp

'97 - 140k - Besides the piddly stuff (like cv2 boots, batteries and o2 sensors), it needed a new alternator at around 120k and a water pump at 135k.

This car has been a bargain! The only things currently wrong with it are a squeaking front end (over bumps in the cold - I've given up trying to figure it out) and the rear passenger electric door lock (not a big deal).

Jayson89NYC

iTrader: (4)

97 MAX GLE 135k
new alternator
new brack pads
new shocks/struts
new knock sensor
new whiper blades

dontae

iTrader: (2)

Well.. try to keep up LOL. Ill have it this year at Maxus on nitrous an hopefully my turd gen will be there. They say, let it blow. Your fix it list looks kind of like mine.

hanowen10@yahoo.com

How did you know your timing chain was going?

ChiknNutz

Seeing this thread is good timing for me. Just picked up a '95 SE 5-spd with 220k. Seems to be in average to good shape overall. Car was spitting 0150 and 0173 codes, so I replaced the LH O2 sensor and cleared the code. So far so good, but haven't drove it enuff to tell if it's fixed for good. When I get a used car I like to replace a lot of the normal maint. stuff so I have a level playing field again, so replaced all fluids except for tranny, spark plugs, fuel and air filters, etc. CVs were done at about 150k by previous owner. Clutch replaced about a yr ago, brakes about 2 yrs ago.

Need to do:

• Struts (feels pretty splashy goin' down the road). Plan to replace with Tokico HP or KYB GR-2 (leaning more to the Tokicos).
• Tachometer (unresponsive, pegged at redline side)
• Engine has a slight miss, could be a FI I suppose (code 0150)...can you determine which one is bad? But at 220k, could stand to replace them all, or are they good for a long time?
• One of the pumps or alternator has a pretty decent "whine" to it...not sure which one yet.
• Stereo works, but but CD player doesn't (Bose)

Car is intended to just be a daily driver. I've always like these cars, glad I got it and stumbled on this forum.

ttreat

Do most people use 91 octane in their high mileage maxima's

Wills98MaxSE

update:
98 SE now closing in on 173K as of this post. within the last 5K, the following has been changed:
- rest of exhaust (new cat & y-pipe, OE style/eastern catalytic)
- new o2 sensors (denso)
- suspension (new KYB GR2 struts/shocks, new strut mounts/bearings, new lower control arms, new ball joints, new swaybar end links, new bushings, new outer tie rods)
- driver side half-shaft
- brighter headlights (sylvania silverstar ultra bulbs), new foglight kit to replace the bad/missing foglights (also new sylvania silverstar foglight bulbs)
- tires

still to come:
- new spark plugs & ignition coils
- new belts
- fluid flushes & fuel induction service

ttreat to answer your ?, yes people still use premium in high-mileage max's

DARTHSWAN

I purchased my 99 back in Dec 2000. It had only 18K miles on it. I currently has 235K on it. I have replaced:

Starter - 1
CV axles - 2
3 of the injectors on the back side of the engine
Windshield


I only put premium in the car. I put 87 octane in my car once. The car ran horrible. Never used 87 again.

I also, about 20K miles ago, switched to synthetic oil (high mileage). Best thing ever done.

Not many problems with the car. The muffler is rusting and a part of it fell off. Now I'm looking into replacing it.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

well the first max(97)
starter
driver side axle
tranny(my own mistake didnt top off the tranny after clutch job)
wheel bearing
coil pack
knock sensor

on the 96(189k)
starter
knock sensor
both axles
i need a new trunk due to the spoiler bolts rusting a huge hole though the trunk
3.5 w\120k (soon to come )

cditto

270k miles.

Tires, plugs, thermostat, brakes, a few sensors, and the radio.

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

i must be lucky...replaced spark plugs and a battery - once since i got the car - to keep it running and the rest is me playing