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Old 09-05-2008, 08:49 PM   #1
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Lowering Car by Heating Stock Springs?

UPDATED

Ok Thank, you everyone for all your replies, for now I will leave the stocks alone, I found another brand here called Dropzone's? are these any good? its a 2" drop Front/Rear, What's the Maximum drop I should do on brand new KYB Gr-2's? I would like at least 1.5" front and rear but 2" if possible with out damaging my car, as I really hate the look of wheel gap... or I could just leave it alone, and get a RSB for better handling at the height it's at...

These are all my choices that I've found,

Eibach Pro Kit, H&R Springs, or Tein S. Tech
http://www.modacar.com/products/Nissan/Maxima/Springs/

Sprint Springs
http://www.racinglab.com/nissan-spri...rings-009.html

Dropzones? (Anybody ever heard of these?)
http://www.slickcar.com/productdetai...ProductID=1670

Last edited by btvenom; 09-06-2008 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:56 PM   #2
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1- GR-2s shouldn't be used with anything but a mild drop. They will blow eventually.
2- DO NOT HEAT YOUR STOCK SPRINGS, especially for a 2" drop. 1.5"F and 1.5" rear can be had with Eibach springs, 1.7-2ish and 1.5ish rear can be had with Progress springs. You can get either used on the cheap.
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:01 PM   #3
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That's just as bad/ghetto as cutting springs, just don't do it.
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:07 PM   #4
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That's just as bad/ghetto as cutting springs, just don't do it.
agree...
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:34 PM   #5
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VERY bad idea...
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:42 PM   #6
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Very bad idea... heat can permanently alter the strength of the metal
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:05 AM   #7
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The springs already go through a very specific heating and cooling cycle in order to get the elasticity that is required for them not to just snap.

I can almost guarantee that your springs will become very very brittle and will snap when put under any load.

You are better off buying cheep ebay springs then doing this. But IMO do it right and spend the money for legit springs or dont do it at all, you will save yourself all kinds of headaches
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Feldman View Post
The springs already go through a very specific heating and cooling cycle in order to get the elasticity that is required for them not to just snap.

I can almost guarantee that your springs will become very very brittle and will snap when put under any load.

You are better off buying cheep ebay springs then doing this. But IMO do it right and spend the money for legit springs or dont do it at all, you will save yourself all kinds of headaches
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:43 AM   #9
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save and get a good drop son.
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:34 AM   #10
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Updated Please Read First Post Again
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:03 AM   #11
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Your Gr2's cant handle anything more than like .5'' of drop. They will be toast in 6 months or less. If you want to drop it that much you need the AGX's

I had a friend with Dropzone coils and he seemed like them. The ride was a little harsh but what do you expect from stiffer springs. He was also running gr2's which didnt last long.
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:08 AM   #12
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I am a Mechanical engineering student and am taking all my material science classes right now. I may just be a nerd but it is kind of cool to me how you can change the properties of metals like this. It would be nearly impossible to preform your own forging and tempering operation especially when all you have is a torch...
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:27 AM   #13
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I thought that the GR-2s are quality springs... I dont understand why they wouldn't last with a 1.5" drop with the eibachs? Are they really that poor quality of a spring? KYB is known for their suspension, I cant think that it would be that cheap, and not take a little drop? There performance struts.

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Your Gr2's cant handle anything more than like .5'' of drop. They will be toast in 6 months or less. If you want to drop it that much you need the AGX's

I had a friend with Dropzone coils and he seemed like them. The ride was a little harsh but what do you expect from stiffer springs. He was also running gr2's which didnt last long.
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:58 AM   #14
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I thought that the GR-2s are quality springs... I dont understand why they wouldn't last with a 1.5" drop with the eibachs? Are they really that poor quality of a spring? KYB is known for their suspension, I cant think that it would be that cheap, and not take a little drop? There performance struts.
because theyre what you would call stock replacement shocks/struts, these are not the ones for lowereing your car. the ones to drop your car would have been the AGXs like mentioned somewhere above.
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Old 09-06-2008, 02:24 PM   #15
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What is with the bad springs questions today.
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:09 PM   #16
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Well the basic make up of a strut is a chamber with oil and seals in it, it can only take a certain amount of pressure before the seals blow. The lower the ride hide of the spring, the more weight the strut is holding up, hit enough good bumps, pressure builds in the strut and the seals blow. GR2s are really just a stock replacement. Just save your money for a quality drop. If you nickel and dime you will spend more money cause you just end up doing stuff twice.
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Old 09-07-2008, 05:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Your Gr2's cant handle anything more than like .5'' of drop. They will be toast in 6 months or less. If you want to drop it that much you need the AGX's

I had a friend with Dropzone coils and he seemed like them. The ride was a little harsh but what do you expect from stiffer springs. He was also running gr2's which didnt last long.
Wrong x1000

GR-2's are AGX set on 2. They can handle eibach springs no problem. I ran AGX on 2 with a few different springs, over a few year period. No issues other than lack of travel.

Dropzones are cheap, one member had them break into pieces. With stock sized struts dont go lower than 1.5". Even then you have limited travel.
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Old 09-07-2008, 06:31 PM   #18
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Wrong x1000

GR-2's are AGX set on 2. They can handle eibach springs no problem. I ran AGX on 2 with a few different springs, over a few year period. No issues other than lack of travel.

Dropzones are cheap, one member had them break into pieces. With stock sized struts dont go lower than 1.5". Even then you have limited travel.
You void the GR2 warranty by using it with anything but a stock a mild drop. I believe .75" is the magic number

The GR2 may be the the AGX on #2 setting in terms of stiffness but the AGX is designed and built tougher to withstand the extra pressure associated with a bigger drop.
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:37 PM   #19
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The springs already go through a very specific heating and cooling cycle in order to get the elasticity that is required for them not to just snap.
Actually, it would alter the yield point of the material. Elasticity is essentially constant through all types of carbon steel at room temperature.

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I can almost guarantee that your springs will become very very brittle and will snap when put under any load.
Actually the heat will ruin the temper of the springs which lowers the yield point and makes it less brittle. A tempered spring is hard and has high yield and ultimate strength which makes it susceptible to fatigue, while a torched spring will sag (yield) instead.

The real problem is that each spring is going to yield differently and have radically inconsistent spring rate and corner weighting. What the person who's considering this needs to know is that they will end up with at least one wheel that isn't pressed down to the pavement, causing the car to have terrible handling when you need it most. It might be similar to driving around on one tire running 10psi too low, or one wheel with a tire that's smaller than the others.

Dave

Last edited by dgeesaman; 09-07-2008 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:36 PM   #20
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Actually, it would alter the yield point of the material. Elasticity is essentially constant through all types of carbon steel at room temperature.

Actually the heat will ruin the temper of the springs which lowers the yield point and makes it less brittle. A tempered spring is hard and has high yield and ultimate strength which makes it susceptible to fatigue, while a torched spring will sag (yield) instead.

The real problem is that each spring is going to yield differently and have radically inconsistent spring rate and corner weighting. What the person who's considering this needs to know is that they will end up with at least one wheel that isn't pressed down to the pavement, causing the car to have terrible handling when you need it most. It might be similar to driving around on one tire running 10psi too low, or one wheel with a tire that's smaller than the others.

Dave
I'm a little new to this stuff but if my studies serve me well heating and quenching them quickly will make them hard but brittle. heating them and allowing them to cool slowly could cause any number of unpredictable results based on how hot they got and how quickly they cool.

The moral of the story is spend real money on a real drop.
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:37 AM   #21
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if you want to cheap out get agx in the front and some blues in the back and you should be good
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:01 AM   #22
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get the good stuff, don't be cheap when it comes to the suspension
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:15 AM   #23
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I'm a little new to this stuff but if my studies serve me well heating and quenching them quickly will make them hard but brittle. heating them and allowing them to cool slowly could cause any number of unpredictable results based on how hot they got and how quickly they cool.
Even with a MAPP torch you won't get the steel hot enough to make it harder. You'll only anneal it and make it softer.

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The moral of the story is spend real money on a real drop.
Agreed.
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