Parasitic Drain-Help
09-10-2008, 02:37 PM
#41
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I would suggest you forget about the trunk switch for the time being, remove the broken door switch and disconnect the wiring from the switch. You can leave the door open because with the switch removed it will think that the door is closed. Open your hood and connect your ammeter as before. Depress the hood switch and see if your curret draw goes from approx. 0.1 Amps to 0.01 Amps in 30-60 sec. If this occurs replace the door switch and you should be in business. If not you will need to find out why the car does not go into sleep mode, probably a faulty security switch should not be that hard to find.
-matt
09-10-2008, 02:48 PM
#42
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How about "JDMax" who had his trunk sensor unplugged, and after he plugged in, after nissan told him it was "missing" from the diagnosis, the problem was fixed ...it went into sleep mode ?
-matt
-matt
09-10-2008, 06:42 PM
#43
I'm glad I found this post! I have driven my car very little for the past 6 months because of this problem. I have 2 Optima red tops, and I still cannot start the car if it sits over 2 days. Unfortunately I have not had time to diagnose, or it might just be discust. My drives door pin has been bad for 4 years, however it has only been 1 year to 6 months since the problem has started. Can one just pull the security fuse or disconnect the alarm to make it stop?
09-10-2008, 06:44 PM
#44
Does you security system work normally? Does the alarm go off if you open the door with the window open after you have turned the alarm on? I'll try and pull the connectors off those trunk switches and see if it prevents sleep mode. Probably let you know tomorrow night.
Matt you will get a more accurate reading from your meter if you use the DC current milliamp setting. You need to move the red lead down one jack of your meter for this and set any switches on the meter accordingly.
Matt you will get a more accurate reading from your meter if you use the DC current milliamp setting. You need to move the red lead down one jack of your meter for this and set any switches on the meter accordingly.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-10-2008 at 06:55 PM.
09-10-2008, 06:46 PM
#45
I'm glad I found this post! I have driven my car very little for the past 6 months because of this problem. I have 2 Optima red tops, and I still cannot start the car if it sits over 2 days. Unfortunately I have not had time to diagnose, or it might just be discust. My drives door pin has been bad for 4 years, however it has only been 1 year to 6 months since the problem has started. Can one just pull the security fuse or disconnect the alarm to make it stop?
09-11-2008, 06:14 PM
#47
Even with the wiring for the trunk lock cylinder switch disconnected my Maxima went into sleep mode (to approx 12 ma) after 30 seconds. This is as I expected. It does not hurt to install the switches. The whole problem is kind of wierd. Maybe the poster who said 100ma should be acceptable is right. It just seems like a bad design that a security switch malfunctioning would drain the battery. I guess you should still pursue trying to get the Maxima into sleep mode. I am learning a litte about the system from the FSM but it takes time. I also now have a flashing airbag light to deal with.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-11-2008 at 06:44 PM.
09-11-2008, 06:20 PM
#48
Best advise I can probably give you is check all your door, trunk and hood switches. Like i said disconnecting any of these switches makes the car think that the door is closed even if it is open. You may try disconnecting all of them and them and see if you can get it into sleep mode.
09-12-2008, 04:17 AM
#49
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Well JSMax had his trunk sensor unplugged and it was preventing it from going into sleep mode.
Im not saying I dont trust you, but something is preventing the security system from going into sleep mode and that post is sticking in my mind.
Im not saying I dont trust you, but something is preventing the security system from going into sleep mode and that post is sticking in my mind.
09-12-2008, 07:01 AM
#52
These switches are wired to work opposite of what you expect. If a door is open the switch is closed (on)to tell the BCM that a door is open. When a door is closed it depresses the switch and the switch opens (off), an open or off switch is the same condition as a disconnected switch. So my suggestion would be to start disconnecting these switches to see if you find a faulty one that is making the system think a door is open.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-12-2008 at 07:06 AM.
09-12-2008, 07:05 AM
#53
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This may be way out there. Do you have a stock bose headunit? Is there a slight humm from it? The Cd ejection system actuallly was draining my battery
.
I do not know what fuse it is linked to but removing the audio fuses did not stop the drain and slight humm from the headuit. Only when I disconected the unit itself I could stop my drain problem. Result no dead battery. If my car sat for more than 2 days the battery was dead.
Anyway just an option
. I do not know what fuse it is linked to but removing the audio fuses did not stop the drain and slight humm from the headuit. Only when I disconected the unit itself I could stop my drain problem. Result no dead battery. If my car sat for more than 2 days the battery was dead.
Anyway just an option
09-12-2008, 07:14 AM
#55
Drove it to work and back on Wed. Tried to drive it on Friday and the starter would not turn fast enough to crank her up. Two days, and she will not start.
I have a feeling it was something I did when I rewired the stereo a year ago for the NOPI Nationals, but if everyone is having this problem, there might be something else.
I have a feeling it was something I did when I rewired the stereo a year ago for the NOPI Nationals, but if everyone is having this problem, there might be something else.
09-12-2008, 07:18 AM
#56
This may be way out there. Do you have a stock bose headunit? Is there a slight humm from it? The Cd ejection system actuallly was draining my battery.
I do not know what fuse it is linked to but removing the audio fuses did not stop the drain and slight humm from the headuit. Only when I disconected the unit itself I could stop my drain problem. Result no dead battery. If my car sat for more than 2 days the battery was dead.
Anyway just an option
. I do not know what fuse it is linked to but removing the audio fuses did not stop the drain and slight humm from the headuit. Only when I disconected the unit itself I could stop my drain problem. Result no dead battery. If my car sat for more than 2 days the battery was dead.
Anyway just an option
I don't think there are any cars from our generation that still have a operating Bose system. When I was in car stereo, I would replace 3 to 4 systems a week. Bose is CRAP.
09-12-2008, 07:19 AM
#57
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-matt
09-12-2008, 08:10 AM
#58
Wouldnt a faulty switch just act like it wasnt plugged in and be like the door was closed ??
-matt[/QUOTE]
Probably, but it could also be shorted. I'm just trying to give you something that could be a possiblity and relatively easy to try. That is how I trouble shoot. I have the FSM wiring diagrams and experience trouble shooting electrical circuits, I used to do it for a living. If you want the exact answer to your problem I don't have it.
You don't have a Bose issue because your current drain is normal except that the car does not go into the sleep mode. If this is not the cause of your problem than I would guess that your alternator is not charging your battery adequately.
-matt[/QUOTE]
Probably, but it could also be shorted. I'm just trying to give you something that could be a possiblity and relatively easy to try. That is how I trouble shoot. I have the FSM wiring diagrams and experience trouble shooting electrical circuits, I used to do it for a living. If you want the exact answer to your problem I don't have it.
You don't have a Bose issue because your current drain is normal except that the car does not go into the sleep mode. If this is not the cause of your problem than I would guess that your alternator is not charging your battery adequately.
09-12-2008, 12:55 PM
#59
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I know, but I think post #25 said that he disconnected the hood switch and that got him working.
These switches are wired to work opposite of what you expect. If a door is open the switch is closed (on)to tell the BCM that a door is open. When a door is closed it depresses the switch and the switch opens (off), an open or off switch is the same condition as a disconnected switch. So my suggestion would be to start disconnecting these switches to see if you find a faulty one that is making the system think a door is open.
These switches are wired to work opposite of what you expect. If a door is open the switch is closed (on)to tell the BCM that a door is open. When a door is closed it depresses the switch and the switch opens (off), an open or off switch is the same condition as a disconnected switch. So my suggestion would be to start disconnecting these switches to see if you find a faulty one that is making the system think a door is open.
I bought the car from my friend and when i asked him if he knew about it, he said he did and that he purposely did it so when he armed the alarm, the alarm would chirp. He thought it was cool if the alarm chirped. But it chirped because it sensed an open door/hood/trunk causing the alarm to never go into sleep mode. What a dumbass!!
He is the same guy that wired the aftermarket radio on the Max, nice dvd player but it would never turn off!!! He wired the unit to a constant power source, i would have the key out of the ignition and i would still be able to play dvds/listen to cd's. I also fixed that as well.
But like someone said earlier it might be your Alternator not properly charging your battery while you're driving, thus draining it after a couple of days of driving.
09-13-2008, 07:31 PM
#60
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Cant be the alternator not charging the battery. I put a full charge on the battery the other day and let it sit for the full day and tried starting that next day and it didnt have enough juice to turn the starter.
My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong
My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong
09-14-2008, 08:13 AM
#61
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Cant be the alternator not charging the battery. I put a full charge on the battery the other day and let it sit for the full day and tried starting that next day and it didnt have enough juice to turn the starter.
My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong
My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong
How did you determine that the battery was fully charged? (hydrometer or terminal voltage)
I would not rely upon the little light on the battery charger that comes on when it "thinks" that it is done.
09-14-2008, 09:06 AM
#62
Cant be the alternator not charging the battery. I put a full charge on the battery the other day and let it sit for the full day and tried starting that next day and it didnt have enough juice to turn the starter.
My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong
My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong
09-14-2008, 09:42 AM
#63
This is from the FSM what is theft system light doing?
Disarmed phase
The theft warning system is in the disarmed phase when any door(s), hood or trunk lid is opened. The security
indicator lamp blinks every second.
Pre-armed phase and armed phase
The theft warning system turns into the “pre-armed” phase when hood, trunk lid and all doors are closed and
locked by key or multi-remote controller. (The security indicator lamp illuminates.)
After about 30 seconds, the system automatically shifts into the “armed” phase (the system is set). (The
security indicator lamp blinks every 2.4 seconds.)
Disarmed phase
The theft warning system is in the disarmed phase when any door(s), hood or trunk lid is opened. The security
indicator lamp blinks every second.
Pre-armed phase and armed phase
The theft warning system turns into the “pre-armed” phase when hood, trunk lid and all doors are closed and
locked by key or multi-remote controller. (The security indicator lamp illuminates.)
After about 30 seconds, the system automatically shifts into the “armed” phase (the system is set). (The
security indicator lamp blinks every 2.4 seconds.)
09-14-2008, 09:47 AM
#64
Also from FSM
INITIAL CONDITION TO ACTIVATE THE SYSTEM
The operation of the theft warning system is controlled by the doors, hood and trunk lid.
To activate the theft warning system, the BCM must receive signals indicating the doors, hood and trunk lid
are closed and the doors are locked.
When a door is open, BCM terminal 35 receives a ground signal from each door switch.
When a front door is unlocked, door LCU01 or 02 terminal 4 receives a ground signal from terminal 2 of
each door unlock sensor.
When a rear door is unlocked, door LCU03 or 04 terminal 5 receives a ground signal from terminal 2 of the
door unlock sensor.
When the hood is open, BCM terminal 36 receives a ground signal from terminal 1 of the hood switch through body grounds.
When the trunk lid is open, BCM terminal 37 receives a ground signal from terminal 1 of the trunk room lamp switch
through body grounds.
When the trunk lid key cylinder is removed by being punched, for example, BCM terminal 26 receives a ground
signal from removed tamper switch.
When the doors are locked with key or multi-remote controller and none of the described conditions exist, the
theft warning system will automatically shift to armed phase.
INITIAL CONDITION TO ACTIVATE THE SYSTEM
The operation of the theft warning system is controlled by the doors, hood and trunk lid.
To activate the theft warning system, the BCM must receive signals indicating the doors, hood and trunk lid
are closed and the doors are locked.
When a door is open, BCM terminal 35 receives a ground signal from each door switch.
When a front door is unlocked, door LCU01 or 02 terminal 4 receives a ground signal from terminal 2 of
each door unlock sensor.
When a rear door is unlocked, door LCU03 or 04 terminal 5 receives a ground signal from terminal 2 of the
door unlock sensor.
When the hood is open, BCM terminal 36 receives a ground signal from terminal 1 of the hood switch through body grounds.
When the trunk lid is open, BCM terminal 37 receives a ground signal from terminal 1 of the trunk room lamp switch
through body grounds.
When the trunk lid key cylinder is removed by being punched, for example, BCM terminal 26 receives a ground
signal from removed tamper switch.
When the doors are locked with key or multi-remote controller and none of the described conditions exist, the
theft warning system will automatically shift to armed phase.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-14-2008 at 09:49 AM.
09-14-2008, 10:56 AM
#68
No sure year of your car (it may matter early 4th gens may not have it) but there is test of switches you can conduct. From FSM.
On-board Diagnosis — Mode II (Switchmonitor)
HOW TO PERFORM MODE II
Condition
I Ignition switch: OFF
I Lighting switch: OFF
I Rear window defogger switch: OFF
I Doors: Closed
I Interior lamp: Center position
Turn ignition switch “ON”.
Return ignition switch to “OFF” and press rear window defogger switch more
than 10 times during 10 seconds.
Self-diagnostic results indicator lamps should turn on.
Keep rear window defogger switch pressed ON, and turn ignition switch
“ON” within 5 seconds after the indicator lamps turn on.
Indicator lamps turn off.
After a second
Mode II is performed.
Turn each switch ON and OFF. Note that the indicator lamp and/or buzzer
goes on or off in response to switch position.
Turn ignition switch “OFF”.
DIAGNOSIS END
If possible do all these switches. I have not done this procedure myself this is all from FSM. Good luck!
Hood switch
I Trunk room lamp switch
I Trunk lid key cylinder switch (UNLOCK)
I Lighting switch (1st)
I Rear window defogger switch
I Wiper switch (INT)
I Wiper switch (WASH)
I Door switch (driver side)
I Door switch (passenger side)
I Door switches (all doors)
I Seat belt buckle switch
I Trunk lid key cylinder tamper switch
On-board Diagnosis — Mode II (Switchmonitor)
HOW TO PERFORM MODE II
Condition
I Ignition switch: OFF
I Lighting switch: OFF
I Rear window defogger switch: OFF
I Doors: Closed
I Interior lamp: Center position
Turn ignition switch “ON”.
Return ignition switch to “OFF” and press rear window defogger switch more
than 10 times during 10 seconds.
Self-diagnostic results indicator lamps should turn on.
Keep rear window defogger switch pressed ON, and turn ignition switch
“ON” within 5 seconds after the indicator lamps turn on.
Indicator lamps turn off.
After a second
Mode II is performed.
Turn each switch ON and OFF. Note that the indicator lamp and/or buzzer
goes on or off in response to switch position.
Turn ignition switch “OFF”.
DIAGNOSIS END
If possible do all these switches. I have not done this procedure myself this is all from FSM. Good luck!
Hood switch
I Trunk room lamp switch
I Trunk lid key cylinder switch (UNLOCK)
I Lighting switch (1st)
I Rear window defogger switch
I Wiper switch (INT)
I Wiper switch (WASH)
I Door switch (driver side)
I Door switch (passenger side)
I Door switches (all doors)
I Seat belt buckle switch
I Trunk lid key cylinder tamper switch
09-14-2008, 12:50 PM
#70
Just tried this on my own car, system beeps to show that each switch is functioning properly. It sounds like you may have issues with your trunk and/or hood switches. You have an ohmmeter maybe you can check switches.
09-14-2008, 04:00 PM
#72
Sounds like may not done the diagnostic mode properly. It took me a few tries. The system beeps to tell you that it is getting the signal from the switch and the switch is functioning properly. Not sure where it's coming from, somewhere under the dash, maybe the BCM.
09-14-2008, 05:14 PM
#73
I just looked at the security light and it blinks every 3 seconds. I know the alarm is not the problem. Unforntunately mice chewed threw the ignition system of my daily driver and I wrecked my race car at an autocross today, so it will have to be the max for the next week or so. No monkeying with the only car that runs! Good luck Matty!
09-15-2008, 04:07 AM
#74
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I dont think im ever gonna find this. I had my car on a charger yesterday till about 2 in the afternoon, then did a few tests on the system. Buttoned it all up and this morning was a very start slow start, and wouldnt turn over.
09-15-2008, 07:17 AM
#75
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Humor me.
Charge the battery. Disconnect the charger. Do not connect the battery back to your vehicle. Wait 1 hr (very important). Measure the voltage directly at the battery terminals (still disconnected from the vehicle)
Let us know what it is.
If it is below 12.5V, then I would say that either your battery is no good or the charger is not doing its job.
09-15-2008, 08:06 AM
#76
I think you maybe close to fixing it just make sure that your trunk and hood switches are working. That may be enough for your car to get into the sleep mode. If nothing else it may get your alarm system functioning properly.
09-17-2008, 09:16 AM
#77
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Location: Hartford, Ct
Posts: 383
I have a problem along these lines. My car starts and runs but after driving for a while the whole car dies. After I changed my alternator and battery I still have the problem. When I start the car and remove the + terminal from the battery the car shuts off. Whenever I have pulled the alternator and take it back they test it as dead. My radio (Bose) cuts in and out when I first turn the car on and that gives me an indication that the car is gonna die. Can this be my problem?
09-21-2008, 04:59 PM
#80
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Well its a miracle, I found it !!!
It was that trunk switch. That switch is very unique. Its a switch that is ALWAYS pushed in by the key cylinder, and if the key clyinder is popped out, then the sensor activates and then the alarm goes off. Also there is a magnet on the arm that slides against the sensor as well to tell the alarm system that you opening the trunk. Without that sensor, even if its UNPLUGGED, the alarm will NOT arm and will NOT go into sleep mode. The sensor has NOTHING to do if the trunk is open or closed. ONLY if that cylinder is popped out by a thief and NEEDs to be in the car for the security system to activate and allow it to go into sleep mode.
I NEVER had this switch in the trunk. All that was there was the key cylinder. I took out the key cylinder, cleaned off the trunk a bit, put a coat of rustolium on there, and installed a new switch from nissan, and a new C sytle holder for the key cylinder.
After all is done I ran a parasitic draw test on the car, got .09 for about 45 seconds and it shot right down to 0.01 or 10 milliamps !! I also got a brand new Redtop battery in there. So all these troubles throughout the years and its finally fixed.
Thanks alot guys, here are some pictures of what I was left with.
-Matt
It was that trunk switch. That switch is very unique. Its a switch that is ALWAYS pushed in by the key cylinder, and if the key clyinder is popped out, then the sensor activates and then the alarm goes off. Also there is a magnet on the arm that slides against the sensor as well to tell the alarm system that you opening the trunk. Without that sensor, even if its UNPLUGGED, the alarm will NOT arm and will NOT go into sleep mode. The sensor has NOTHING to do if the trunk is open or closed. ONLY if that cylinder is popped out by a thief and NEEDs to be in the car for the security system to activate and allow it to go into sleep mode.
I NEVER had this switch in the trunk. All that was there was the key cylinder. I took out the key cylinder, cleaned off the trunk a bit, put a coat of rustolium on there, and installed a new switch from nissan, and a new C sytle holder for the key cylinder.
After all is done I ran a parasitic draw test on the car, got .09 for about 45 seconds and it shot right down to 0.01 or 10 milliamps !! I also got a brand new Redtop battery in there. So all these troubles throughout the years and its finally fixed.
Thanks alot guys, here are some pictures of what I was left with.
-Matt
Last edited by matty; 09-21-2008 at 07:46 PM.