Parasitic Drain-Help

[matty]

Originally Posted by Nopike

I would suggest you forget about the trunk switch for the time being, remove the broken door switch and disconnect the wiring from the switch. You can leave the door open because with the switch removed it will think that the door is closed. Open your hood and connect your ammeter as before. Depress the hood switch and see if your curret draw goes from approx. 0.1 Amps to 0.01 Amps in 30-60 sec. If this occurs replace the door switch and you should be in business. If not you will need to find out why the car does not go into sleep mode, probably a faulty security switch should not be that hard to find.

I took off that rear door sensor, and still at .10 with the hood sensor pushed down.

-matt

[matty]

How about "JDMax" who had his trunk sensor unplugged, and after he plugged in, after nissan told him it was "missing" from the diagnosis, the problem was fixed ...it went into sleep mode ?

-matt

[choray911]

I'm glad I found this post! I have driven my car very little for the past 6 months because of this problem. I have 2 Optima red tops, and I still cannot start the car if it sits over 2 days. Unfortunately I have not had time to diagnose, or it might just be discust. My drives door pin has been bad for 4 years, however it has only been 1 year to 6 months since the problem has started. Can one just pull the security fuse or disconnect the alarm to make it stop?

[Nopike]

Does you security system work normally? Does the alarm go off if you open the door with the window open after you have turned the alarm on? I'll try and pull the connectors off those trunk switches and see if it prevents sleep mode. Probably let you know tomorrow night.


Matt you will get a more accurate reading from your meter if you use the DC current milliamp setting. You need to move the red lead down one jack of your meter for this and set any switches on the meter accordingly.

[Nopike]

Originally Posted by choray911

I'm glad I found this post! I have driven my car very little for the past 6 months because of this problem. I have 2 Optima red tops, and I still cannot start the car if it sits over 2 days. Unfortunately I have not had time to diagnose, or it might just be discust. My drives door pin has been bad for 4 years, however it has only been 1 year to 6 months since the problem has started. Can one just pull the security fuse or disconnect the alarm to make it stop?

I'm going to investigate some tomorrow night will post my findings.

[matty]

anything ?

still waiting for my few switches i ordered from nissan.

[Nopike]

Even with the wiring for the trunk lock cylinder switch disconnected my Maxima went into sleep mode (to approx 12 ma) after 30 seconds. This is as I expected. It does not hurt to install the switches. The whole problem is kind of wierd. Maybe the poster who said 100ma should be acceptable is right. It just seems like a bad design that a security switch malfunctioning would drain the battery. I guess you should still pursue trying to get the Maxima into sleep mode. I am learning a litte about the system from the FSM but it takes time. I also now have a flashing airbag light to deal with.

[Nopike]

Best advise I can probably give you is check all your door, trunk and hood switches. Like i said disconnecting any of these switches makes the car think that the door is closed even if it is open. You may try disconnecting all of them and them and see if you can get it into sleep mode.

[matty]

Well JSMax had his trunk sensor unplugged and it was preventing it from going into sleep mode.
Im not saying I dont trust you, but something is preventing the security system from going into sleep mode and that post is sticking in my mind.

[choray911]

I have the batteries on a charger right now, and plan on doing some testing tomorrow night.

[matty]

k. How longs it take for yours to die ?

[Nopike]

Originally Posted by matty

Well JSMax had his trunk sensor unplugged and it was preventing it from going into sleep mode.
Im not saying I dont trust you, but something is preventing the security system from going into sleep mode and that post is sticking in my mind.

I know, but I think post #25 said that he disconnected the hood switch and that got him working.


These switches are wired to work opposite of what you expect. If a door is open the switch is closed (on)to tell the BCM that a door is open. When a door is closed it depresses the switch and the switch opens (off), an open or off switch is the same condition as a disconnected switch. So my suggestion would be to start disconnecting these switches to see if you find a faulty one that is making the system think a door is open.

[maxger]

This may be way out there. Do you have a stock bose headunit? Is there a slight humm from it? The Cd ejection system actuallly was draining my battery.

I do not know what fuse it is linked to but removing the audio fuses did not stop the drain and slight humm from the headuit. Only when I disconected the unit itself I could stop my drain problem. Result no dead battery. If my car sat for more than 2 days the battery was dead.

Anyway just an option

[Nopike]

Of course I am not certain you have a faulty switch but there is not much else I can tell you to check easily.

[choray911]

Drove it to work and back on Wed. Tried to drive it on Friday and the starter would not turn fast enough to crank her up. Two days, and she will not start.
I have a feeling it was something I did when I rewired the stereo a year ago for the NOPI Nationals, but if everyone is having this problem, there might be something else.

[choray911]

Originally Posted by maxger

This may be way out there. Do you have a stock bose headunit? Is there a slight humm from it? The Cd ejection system actuallly was draining my battery.

I do not know what fuse it is linked to but removing the audio fuses did not stop the drain and slight humm from the headuit. Only when I disconected the unit itself I could stop my drain problem. Result no dead battery. If my car sat for more than 2 days the battery was dead.

Anyway just an option

The radio fuse would not have fixed it. You would have to pull the interior lights fuse. It is the circuit that supplies the radio constant power to keep you clock and presets current.
I don't think there are any cars from our generation that still have a operating Bose system. When I was in car stereo, I would replace 3 to 4 systems a week. Bose is CRAP.

[matty]

Originally Posted by maxger

This may be way out there. Do you have a stock bose headunit? Is there a slight humm from it? The Cd ejection system actuallly was draining my battery.

That would mean if I had a CD in the unit, it would spit it out after the cars shut off. That doesnt happen.

Originally Posted by Nopike

Of course I am not certain you have a faulty switch but there is not much else I can tell you to check easily.

Wouldnt a faulty switch just act like it wasnt plugged in and be like the door was closed ??


-matt

[Nopike]

Wouldnt a faulty switch just act like it wasnt plugged in and be like the door was closed ??


-matt[/quote]

Probably, but it could also be shorted. I'm just trying to give you something that could be a possiblity and relatively easy to try. That is how I trouble shoot. I have the FSM wiring diagrams and experience trouble shooting electrical circuits, I used to do it for a living. If you want the exact answer to your problem I don't have it.


You don't have a Bose issue because your current drain is normal except that the car does not go into the sleep mode. If this is not the cause of your problem than I would guess that your alternator is not charging your battery adequately.

[danny60632]

Originally Posted by Nopike

I know, but I think post #25 said that he disconnected the hood switch and that got him working.


These switches are wired to work opposite of what you expect. If a door is open the switch is closed (on)to tell the BCM that a door is open. When a door is closed it depresses the switch and the switch opens (off), an open or off switch is the same condition as a disconnected switch. So my suggestion would be to start disconnecting these switches to see if you find a faulty one that is making the system think a door is open.

Yes, it did solve my problem. But only because the switch was laying next to the battery always in the on position. I did not know where it went so when the hood closed it would push it down and close as well. So i just disconnect it and now my alarm does go into sleep mode.

I bought the car from my friend and when i asked him if he knew about it, he said he did and that he purposely did it so when he armed the alarm, the alarm would chirp. He thought it was cool if the alarm chirped. But it chirped because it sensed an open door/hood/trunk causing the alarm to never go into sleep mode. What a dumbass!!

He is the same guy that wired the aftermarket radio on the Max, nice dvd player but it would never turn off!!! He wired the unit to a constant power source, i would have the key out of the ignition and i would still be able to play dvds/listen to cd's. I also fixed that as well.

But like someone said earlier it might be your Alternator not properly charging your battery while you're driving, thus draining it after a couple of days of driving.

[matty]

Cant be the alternator not charging the battery. I put a full charge on the battery the other day and let it sit for the full day and tried starting that next day and it didnt have enough juice to turn the starter.

My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong

[eng92]

Originally Posted by matty

Cant be the alternator not charging the battery. I put a full charge on the battery the other day and let it sit for the full day and tried starting that next day and it didnt have enough juice to turn the starter.

My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong

How did you determine that the battery was fully charged? (hydrometer or terminal voltage)

I would not rely upon the little light on the battery charger that comes on when it "thinks" that it is done.

[Nopike]

Originally Posted by matty

Cant be the alternator not charging the battery. I put a full charge on the battery the other day and let it sit for the full day and tried starting that next day and it didnt have enough juice to turn the starter.

My security system doesnt even work. I locked the doors and reach in and unlock the door with no activation. Something wrong

If you get the security system working than the car will probably go into sleep mode and it may also fix your current drain problem.

[Nopike]

This is from the FSM what is theft system light doing?

Disarmed phase
The theft warning system is in the disarmed phase when any door(s), hood or trunk lid is opened. The security
indicator lamp blinks every second.
Pre-armed phase and armed phase
The theft warning system turns into the “pre-armed” phase when hood, trunk lid and all doors are closed and
locked by key or multi-remote controller. (The security indicator lamp illuminates.)
After about 30 seconds, the system automatically shifts into the “armed” phase (the system is set). (The
security indicator lamp blinks every 2.4 seconds.)

[Nopike]

Also from FSM

INITIAL CONDITION TO ACTIVATE THE SYSTEM
The operation of the theft warning system is controlled by the doors, hood and trunk lid.
To activate the theft warning system, the BCM must receive signals indicating the doors, hood and trunk lid
are closed and the doors are locked.
When a door is open, BCM terminal 35 receives a ground signal from each door switch.
When a front door is unlocked, door LCU01 or 02 terminal 4 receives a ground signal from terminal 2 of
each door unlock sensor.
When a rear door is unlocked, door LCU03 or 04 terminal 5 receives a ground signal from terminal 2 of the
door unlock sensor.
When the hood is open, BCM terminal 36 receives a ground signal from terminal 1 of the hood switch through body grounds.
When the trunk lid is open, BCM terminal 37 receives a ground signal from terminal 1 of the trunk room lamp switch
through body grounds.
When the trunk lid key cylinder is removed by being punched, for example, BCM terminal 26 receives a ground
signal from removed tamper switch.
When the doors are locked with key or multi-remote controller and none of the described conditions exist, the
theft warning system will automatically shift to armed phase.

[Nopike]

It goes back to disconnecting these signals as I mentioned before, if you disconnect a faulty one the system should go into armed phase when you lock the car. Are any other electronics on the car not working?

[matty]

Yea..everything seems to be working. Ill do some more troubleshooting today

Thanks for that information

-mat

[matty]

went out to the car, been locked all night, security light is blinking every second. something is wrong