magic_max

here's what I bought:





21010-31U85 = 80.52
13079-31U00 = 4.80
13091-31U26 = 55.66

I'm going to replace as much stuff as I can along the way. I bought my stuff from Dave B. Awesome guy. Since I have a "95", I'm going to replace the guts of the tensioner. But Dave said the price for the tensioner alone is the same as the tensioner and guide kit so I bought that. While on the phone with Dave, he actually went and opened the tensioner box to verify it was the same part as in the kit...talk about great service.

Anyway, just wanted to pass on some part #'s and price for anyone doing the same. Hopefully I got the correct stuff. All I need to get now is some Toyota FIPG (form in place gasket).

Thanks for reading.

S14-NEO

i dont know why you wouldnt just use the nissan red sillicone, that is some incredile sealant...and i sure hope your not planning on doing this in your driveway....if you are i wish you the best of luck

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

he didn't just by sealent because if you know (which ... you obviously do not!) Nissan has a gasket for the TC tensioner replacement and on a 95, you replace the guide and tensioner both. also ... wtf is wrong with doing a job like this in the driveway? funny ... I recall doing my water pump and TC tensioner in my drive and not having a bit of trouble. I'll admit ... doing the guide will not be much fun, but it shouldn't matter if he is in a swimming pool to do the work.

Magic .... couple things:

first off ... you'll need 2 - M12 (?) bolts to remove the pump - search water pump, it'll come up .... can't recall off hand the length / size, I just know I have a set.
second .... your sig says "96" ??? you have 2 Max's?

sonicrunch

I did mine about a year ago. I replaced the tensioner, but not that big slide.

I also manged to drop that thumbtack thingy into the engine. I left it in there and have been perfectly fine.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Fine untill it gets picked up and tossed into the TC.

S14-NEO

damn dude, never said it couldnt be done..i can see you dont interpret things well...i meant it wont be fun...and trust me ive done my fair share so i would just prefer to do them on a lift thats all.

AlpineGt66

iTrader: (8)

good luck to you bud!!! I would rather replace an entire engine than to do this... it would be nice if you could do a good write up with many pics! and problems or mishaps you get along the way, as well as suggestions, and if you were to do it again what would you do different.

Love_00_Max

If I were to replace the tensioner, I would tie a rope to the thumbnail thingy and tie the other end to ur wrist, just in case it falls inside.

Good luck, I got my pump and tensioner replaced early this week. Got it done by a patient of my wife. I just did a oil change since coolant was all over mixed up with the oil (2 oil changes in 5 days).

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Nissan OEM sealent...bleh. Black RTV FTW.

As for the bolts to jack the water pump out, you can use the bolts from the left side guide (right above the water pump), since you're taking the front cover off. They're the right size and thread pitch, and long enough to get the water pump out enough.

magic_max

Thanks, I actually bought the bolts, M12x144, just didn't mention them.

The sticker by my driver side door says manufacture date = 09/95 but my car is registered as 96'. So from what I've read, I can only change out the guts for the tensioner. And the gasket I bought should fit my original tensioner? Can someone verify?

magic_max

I think I'll be doing the rope thing...thanks!

magic_max

What year is your max? Did you buy an exact replacement tensioner?

Thanks!

sonicrunch

98

I got the tensioner (piston assembly) from an auto parts store. What do you mean by exact replacement?

sonicrunch

I pulled the oil pan and looked everywhere I could for it, only to find that it must be sitting on a little ledge at the bottom where it is trapped.

GAMERA30

iTrader: (4)

o man .. ya doin guides,waterpump at home ... eeeek.... O well.. least it`s not a 6th gen. or altima 3.5L I remove the engine when i do this job on those cars. It`s sooo much easier. My VE is similar to the VQ and my senior tech tell me that I`m beter off dropping my engine to do my chains. There`s practically no room to work on it

maxpeed96plat.

iTrader: (3)

I would spend the extra money and put in a new oil pump since your taking the TC off, good luck bro.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I've always used the bolts that hold the tensioner pulley bracket on.

magic_max

No way Jose. I'm only doing the wp & tensioner. The price for the tensioner and kit (tensioner + guide) were the same so I bought the kit and just showing it for info only.

tolken4

+1 on the oil pump.

94CobraR

iTrader: (1)

Haven't heard of oil pump failures, so why replace a perfectly working pump?

magic_max

Sorry took me a while to do a write up on my WP job, but here goes. Since the existing WP write ups are good, this is a readers digest version so you have to refer back to the other posts. Hopefully you can find some useful info in here.

First of all, all the parts are correct. I used the tensioner gasket on my old style tensioner. Used the guts of the new tensioner to rebuild my old style tensioner. Remember I have a '95.

PREP WORK:
I decided to remove everything that people said would help make room. So I removed the motor mount, power steering canister, belt tensioner, windshield washer filler neck, and coolant reservoir. Make sure you keep track of the order of nuts, washers, etc. of the belt tensioner assembly. Look how much room I have.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...oomtowork1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...oomtowork2.jpg

Had to put an extension on my 17-mm wrench to remove the motor mount nuts facing the fender. After I got all the nuts and bolts off the motor mounts, I had to raise the engine a little to get the motor mount out. I used the car jack with a piece of 2x4 on the oil pan to raise the engine.

I was planning on doing a coolant flush so I removed my thermostat and my radiator was drained too. A bunch of coolant gushed out.

ACCESS COVER REMOVAL:
- Removed WP & tensioner access covers
- Removed old gasket from block with gasket scraper tool
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...erremoved1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...erremoved2.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...to/WP_pic1.jpg
- Used a pick to remove old gasket in the grove on block side

TENSIONER REMOVAL:
- The plunger felt very hard to push in. Barely any gap between plunger and chain guide to get leverage to push it in using a flat blade screwdriver.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ingcontact.jpg
- I was afraid of scratching plunger and/or chain guide.
- Folded foil and stuck it under tensioner to act as a plate/catch
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...gtensioner.jpg
- Loosened (2) tensioner bolts, but didn't remove the bolts.
- Pushed plunger in and out until the pressure on the plunger was relieved.
- This made it easier to push the plunger in.
- Removed top bolt and rotated tensioner CCW.
- All the while holding stubby slotted screw driver tip on plunger to prevent it from shooting out.
- Once plunger got out of the way of where it meets the chain guide, pushed plunger in and locked it in with pin.
- Removed plunger with bolt on.

WP REMOVAL:
- Folded foil and stuck it under WP to act as a plate/catch. Not much to room to put the foil under WP though.
- Loosened bolts and slowly removed (3) of them. This was the scariest part because the bolts are further in than the tensioner.
- As mentioned in other posts, washers won't come off bolt.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...-oldnewwp1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...-oldnewwp2.jpg
* - A LOT of coolant drains out to the oil pan when you remove the WP. I didn't remove the drain plug next to the WP area. I didn't care too much since I planned on removing the oil pan to get rid of the extra stuff laying below the drain plug. See how much is left after draining from drain plug.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...anremoved1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...anremoved2.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...anremoved3.jpg
- Removed all old gasket from oil pan
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...eanoilpan1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...eanoilpan2.jpg

REBUILT TENSIONER:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...tensioner1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...tensioner2.jpg
- Cleaned tensioner with brake cleaner
- Swapped plunger, spring (w/black piece) and o-ring
- Used pick to remove and install o-ring
- Plunger tension felt stronger w/new parts

INSTALLED WP:
- Cleaned WP mating surface.
- Sanded with 400 grit sandpaper. Some black crap wouldn't come off by rubbing w/rag.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...edcloseup1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...edcloseup6.jpg
- Taped WP perpeller with electrical tape so doesn’t cut o-ring while installing them.
- Installed o-rings.
- Put oil on outer ring and coolant on inner ring.
- Jacked up block to get maximum access.
- Lined bottom of access hole with foil to catch falling objects.
- Held chain out of way with a pick and installed WP.
- Screwed bolts in by hand.
- Made sure chain on teeth of WP.
- Slowly tightened all three bolts little by little.
- Torqued bolts.

INSTALLED REBUILT TENSIONER:
- The outside edges of the new style gasket doesn't really match the old tensioner but the inside cutout matches.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ylegasket1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ylegasket2.jpg
- Turned pulley CW 20 degrees to get slack back at tensioner
- Used allen wrench to hold up chain.
- Cleaned tensioner mating surface.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...ioncloseup.jpg
- Pinned plunger.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...installed1.jpg
- Lined bottom of access hole with foil to catch falling objects.
- Put gasket on tensioner and top bolt.
- Attached bottom bolt and made sure gasket was lined up correctly.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...installed2.jpg
- Removed CAMSHAFT sensor to make room for torque wrench.
- Torqued tensioner bolts.

EXTRA PICS:
- Look at the wear on my chain guides. This needs to be changed down the road. I hate to think how this would have to be done.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...wearmarks1.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...wearmarks2.jpg
- My gasket maker
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...asketmaker.jpg
- Oil pickup
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...-oilpickup.jpg



-------------------
* For those that don't plan on removing the oil pan, might want to figure out a way to remove a lot of coolant. At least below the level of the WP so the coolant doesn't go into the oil pan.

I forgot to mention the crankshaft turn to put slack on the chain to remove the WP.

SUMMARY:
Car started with the horrible noise the first time but now I don't get any rattle at cold startups like I did.

Thanks to all the good write ups about this, this wasn't a very hard project, just a lot to do. Especially after taking everything off and making a lot of room to work. It was worth the extra work. It took me about 2 weeks to do. I could only work on my car a little at a time so I had to share cars in the meantime. But I really wanted to take my time and not mess up. One of the crappiest part of this project was dealing with the oil pan. I'm glad I took it off because thats a lot of coolant to run through my engine, but to do it again, I don't know. Anyway, thanks for reading and thanks for making this possible for me.

maximauser06

hi, frieds. I got to find the repair manuals of the maxima, and the water pump replacement step by step. you can do it by free at www.pdftown.com--i think this information can be valuabel for u. thanks.

dashan

Do you mean to use the old tensioner with the new plunger and spring that came with the kit?

Thanks

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

So if I'm NOT doing the tensioner I'd just be doing these steps right:

Or do I have to do the tensioner work too? Does the Haynes manual have a how to about this?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You mean if you're just doing the water pump, and not the tensioner? Yes, those are the steps you'd follow.

You only have to do the tensioner if you want to install the upgraded version.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Nah. I'm looking to do this perhaps when I hit 100k (or maybe earlier) as preventive maintenance.

I'm at 76k now and don't have any issues with my car except for a nagging MAP/BARO SSV code (P1105) which is probably just a sensor.

What does an upgraded tensioner do? Did Nissan F up on the 95 tensioner or something?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It was redesigned to help prevent the leak down of oil, which causes the timing chain noise on a cold start. Changed the angle of the tensioner body, IIRC. But to use the new tensioner, it's best to use the new guide, which means removing the front cover.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Is that only for 95's or early 4th Gen's or all 4th gens (I'm a 99)? I feel this maybe be good info for someone searching for this type of work.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I believe it was pre-97, something like that.

There's a big thread on it in here.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Okay cool.

AtomicBatman

I just replaced my tensioners 2 days ago in my 98, while I was in there I did the water pump too. Took me a good chunk of time and I gotta say I was VERY glad to be doing it on a lift. Alot of lifting and dropping the car to get to bolt and for easier movements

cool

magic max
1. may i know what prompted you to change the water pump, which part of the car did you see water leaking out? mine even without the engine running and by just opening the radiator cap water begin to leak out of the area between alternator and water pump area. your advice please.

2. You mentioned "* - A LOT of coolant drains out to the oil pan when you remove the WP. I didn't remove the drain plug next to the WP area. I didn't care too much since I planned on removing the oil pan to get rid of the extra stuff laying below the drain plug. See how much is left after draining from drain plug."

Can you e mail me picture or detailed information on which exactly is the water drain plug near the water pump?

my email: philipsee1@yahoo.com Many many thanks magic max

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

This is a 2008 post.

cool

magic max do you have a picture on where the water drain plug near the water pump is located?

cool

yes i know, would you know the answer to the question? the video you posted does not specifically say anything about my question except showing water leak on the ground, dripping from the compressor but not specifying exactly where, cause it may be the drain plug near the water pump that might be loose?

cool

magic max you mention an O ring on the tensioner, can you please advice if there is indeed an O ring and where is it located as the actual tnesioner does not have locations to install O ring.

bobjob

I followed my water leak from behind a/c compressor ,behind bracket , to between inner timing cover and block . I removed every thing to get to it ...turns out , there is a weep hole that goes to nowhere ....one near the top of water pump , one near the bottom ...My leak was bottom ....outer and inner covers
Came off ,as well as timing chain ... I am in way farther than I wanted to be ...
When I took off front chain ,, cams on rear spun back .... now I am stressed out on how to reset it ....... water pump is hard to turn , and seals are cracked / brittle .....
There is a drain near back of a/c compressor 2" back and near top of compressor .. big head 17mms???

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

I did it on a friends moms '97 in the backyard in the dirt. And that was my first time doing one. Water pump and tensioner are easy. Before I did it I read horror stories and knew what not to do. I now have that car and it's the botton one in the sig. I do all my work on a driveway. Luckily it's paved but I help out all the time and it's not always paved. If there's a will, there's a way! old post ftw.