Opinions needed! Best mods under $500
08-18-2008, 07:11 AM
#41
Go stuff......y pipe and Technosquare ECU
turning stuff.......You cant get a good spring/strut combo for 500.....maybe some blues or GR2s with springs but not AGXs/Illumias ect........
show stuff.....you maybe able to get a wheel and tire combo for 500, but its gonna be smaller wheels and not as good looking. lip kit with paint will be well over 500....You maybe able to do new headlights or something...
If it were me I would go with the y pipe and technosquare ECU.......gain around 20-25 WHP and will have the basic building blocks for adding a VI or boost later on....
turning stuff.......You cant get a good spring/strut combo for 500.....maybe some blues or GR2s with springs but not AGXs/Illumias ect........
show stuff.....you maybe able to get a wheel and tire combo for 500, but its gonna be smaller wheels and not as good looking. lip kit with paint will be well over 500....You maybe able to do new headlights or something...
If it were me I would go with the y pipe and technosquare ECU.......gain around 20-25 WHP and will have the basic building blocks for adding a VI or boost later on....
08-18-2008, 07:41 AM
#42
Have you SEEN a maxima recently?
i've been wanting the 17" altima 5-spokes that have been getting more and more popular around here, but i keep having shxt come up that needs money allocated (teeth, car payments, etc etc etc...girlfriend...blah blah) and it's hard to keep money lol. if i figure out a way to sell my rims and find a good deal on the alt's i'll most likely jump on it. but i don't really want to (temporarily) drive around on steely's with $10 tires on them lol.
another question. if i were to get about a 10-15 # boost, what other parts am i looking at needing to replace? cams? crank? rods? pistons? or just wait till they fxck something up? i'm kinda nervous ab boosting. is it worth the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$?
From what I have seen VQ30s are surprisingly boost friendly.
08-18-2008, 07:53 AM
#44
You dont need to build the motor for boost. But also take into consideration that psi means nothing when it comes to boost. You need to know the cfm rating of the said blower or turbo. Thats what matters.
08-18-2008, 07:56 AM
#45
yeah i was talking about all parts other than the actual turbo. i figured it would be in the 1-2 k range but i was kinda hoping not. i think i'll pass on the turbo for now.
black_maxed is right, i typically like modding appearance more than the power. there's a good reason why...my maxima already looks better than most cars on the road (imho)...and even with 100% OEM power, i can easily smoke many cars, modded or not. i dusted a "silvia" (240sx with silvia badges lololzzz) quite easily on the way to IA last month. i don't really feel myself falling behind in traffic.
EDIT: i think i'll go with rims, an intake, and a ypipe. updates later...
black_maxed is right, i typically like modding appearance more than the power. there's a good reason why...my maxima already looks better than most cars on the road (imho)...and even with 100% OEM power, i can easily smoke many cars, modded or not. i dusted a "silvia" (240sx with silvia badges lololzzz) quite easily on the way to IA last month. i don't really feel myself falling behind in traffic.
EDIT: i think i'll go with rims, an intake, and a ypipe. updates later...
Last edited by tyler5619; 08-18-2008 at 02:41 PM.
08-18-2008, 07:57 AM
#46
PSI doesn't mean nothing, but no it isn't as informative as CFM without certain context.
08-18-2008, 08:02 AM
#47
Its the measure of resistance so no it means nothing. If you have T2 running 12psi its not going to flow the same amount of air as a T4 running 12 psi. You have to find a compressor map and find the flow thats what matters.
08-18-2008, 08:07 AM
#48
Wasnt trying to be a commando, just stating that I dont see how one can advise others when they dont have no experience on certain matters.
08-18-2008, 08:41 AM
#49
First of all on what planet is a 3" exhaust not considered a full exhaust? secondly dont talk to me like you know me and my experience because you read my sig and think somehow that sums up my life experience. I probably have more experience with cars and various mods than you do. Ive worked on ferraris, porsche, bently, rolls, bmw, and all other cars under the sun made between 1934 and today have you? (diddnt think so) I also have done extensive custom boyd cottington type stuff on various frankenstein cars (like chevy body dodge engine ford rear everything fabricated in house). I only did the suspension because i bought the car really cheap with a totally blown suspension because the previous owner put ebay springs on stock struts and I needed it to be safer for daily drivin without blowing the bank( I got my whole set up for less than 400$. I bought the tein kyb set up I have over others because I have much experience with both tein and kyb and they are quality manufacturers. I also unlike many other people know how to drive with a serious drop its an art and if you cant do it you shouldnt go lower. a rougher ride comes with a stiffer suspension and a low car, there is no way around it every porsche and ferrari drives very rough over rough roads. and if I had money to burn to make things perfect I would have gone coilover which allow me to re-iterate i have MUCH EXPERIENCE WITH. and where did I say it would be anything like stock ride? In my opinion it is always better than stock. and of course your not going to get what you put in out upon sale of the car, but it looks alot better if you have high grade mods than cheap ones. with quality mods you may get more than book with cheap mods you will almost always get less than book. and I dont really care what the mickey mouse sc kit comes with IF YOU DONT DEAL WITH FUEL MANAGEMENT YOUR ONLY HALF DONE and that is with any boosted application period. but again let me re-iterate how ignorant it is to judge people based on nearly no info.
p.s. the title of the thread is opinions needed so why dont you allow anyone else's opinion stand and speak for itself. this isnt even your thread but yet you seem to wanna police it like you have a right to.
p.s. the title of the thread is opinions needed so why dont you allow anyone else's opinion stand and speak for itself. this isnt even your thread but yet you seem to wanna police it like you have a right to.
I mentioned the GR2s because the AGXs would have been more ideal for that drop if you wanted to stay with KYB. But since you know KYB you already know this.
Iv never been in a Ferrari, but have been in some Porsches and they rode fairly well. Suspension was tight, but not rough considering how low and tight the suspension was.
As far as the title of the thread goes, it was asking for Opinions needed for the Best mods UNDER 500.00.
Im not going to doubt your experience and etc.
But seems odd to me that you having so much experience with so many high end cars and knowlege in extensive fabrication are on a Maxima board asking questions about low idle and quiet exhaust setups.
08-18-2008, 09:34 AM
#50
Why does it matter that the rev limiter isnt extended....Technosquare has a more aggressive tune than JWT and Its cheaper right now....We dont have a rotary engine in there.....No real need to go to 7000+ rpms....
Flav you seem to assume that everything typed on here has to be taken literally.....you shouldnt do that on the internet....typos will fawk that up quick. That and you seem to think everyone doesnt know what they are talking about either....
Not to mention you are getting sandy at statements to a guy that dont even involve you. He didnt say anything about going boosted, wanted cheap effective go fast mods, I can bet money he wont be one of the 2% of maxima owners that go FI.......
For 400 bucks he can have roughly 20-25 WHP...10-12 for Y, 10-12ish for the ECU. You must have been boosted for to long to not think that that amount of gain is negligible......Right now I would kill for 2 more bolt ons to get me 20 more WHP.....
Cliffs: settle down on the .org vengence and just let people state their opinions.
08-18-2008, 11:48 AM
#52
Well this thread went WAY south but to the OP if you have not addressed all general maintence DO THAT FIRST no sense in having Mods and your car doesnt start. also get the car detailed and read the stickies!
08-18-2008, 11:49 AM
#53
Never said he had to use it for a boosted car...
Why does it matter that the rev limiter isnt extended....Technosquare has a more aggressive tune than JWT and Its cheaper right now....We dont have a rotary engine in there.....No real need to go to 7000+ rpms....
Flav you seem to assume that everything typed on here has to be taken literally.....you shouldnt do that on the internet....typos will fawk that up quick. That and you seem to think everyone doesnt know what they are talking about either....
Not to mention you are getting sandy at statements to a guy that dont even involve you. He didnt say anything about going boosted, wanted cheap effective go fast mods, I can bet money he wont be one of the 2% of maxima owners that go FI.......
For 400 bucks he can have roughly 20-25 WHP...10-12 for Y, 10-12ish for the ECU. You must have been boosted for to long to not think that that amount of gain is negligible......Right now I would kill for 2 more bolt ons to get me 20 more WHP.....
Cliffs: settle down on the .org vengence and just let people state their opinions.
Why does it matter that the rev limiter isnt extended....Technosquare has a more aggressive tune than JWT and Its cheaper right now....We dont have a rotary engine in there.....No real need to go to 7000+ rpms....
Flav you seem to assume that everything typed on here has to be taken literally.....you shouldnt do that on the internet....typos will fawk that up quick. That and you seem to think everyone doesnt know what they are talking about either....
Not to mention you are getting sandy at statements to a guy that dont even involve you. He didnt say anything about going boosted, wanted cheap effective go fast mods, I can bet money he wont be one of the 2% of maxima owners that go FI.......
For 400 bucks he can have roughly 20-25 WHP...10-12 for Y, 10-12ish for the ECU. You must have been boosted for to long to not think that that amount of gain is negligible......Right now I would kill for 2 more bolt ons to get me 20 more WHP.....
Cliffs: settle down on the .org vengence and just let people state their opinions.
What I was refering to was this comment... "gain around 20-25 WHP and will have the basic building blocks for adding a VI or boost later on"
Without the raised rev limiter you dont gain the VI's full power, and that tune wont work with FI.
It does suck thatTechnosquare couldnt crack it for all the 4th gens.
I also agree that the tune for the Technosquare is a bit more agressive, but not much more. Someone had posted a dyno of both back to back way back in the day and it had just slightly better numbers then the JWT, (I believe it was in the lower end).
I know its only 500 to 700 more RPMS, but with the VI the motor will just continue to pull all the way up and continue make more power.
Thats why I ditched my G Force/ Technosquare ECU and went with the JWT. Trust me, it made a difference. It also sucks that the JWT is so $$$ and takes sooo long for them to mod them.
I know the EU is also an option, but I cannot talk too much about it because I myself am still having issues figuring it out at the moment.
Im not getting sandy towards anyone. All Im doing is trying to give the OP the clearest and simplest information so he can choose what really are the best options out there for the 500.00 he is looking to spend.
I didnt originally bring up boost. Someone else did, I just commented on some of the details involved.
I didnt suggest anything besides what would be in his price range at this moment, which is what he was asking.
Everyone else chimed in and basicly said "go big, or dont go at all", which I dont really agree on. Going step by step, mod by mod gains you a lot of exerperience in regards to which mods are the most beneficial for each individuals liking. Along the way, one may decide they are content with what they have, and dont feel the real need to make 400whp or have a competition winning system, award winning exteror and etc.
08-18-2008, 12:35 PM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 209
No one said I was suming up your life or judging you, I was just stating that you recommend one thing and yet do another.
I mentioned the GR2s because the AGXs would have been more ideal for that drop if you wanted to stay with KYB. But since you know KYB you already know this.
Iv never been in a Ferrari, but have been in some Porsches and they rode fairly well. Suspension was tight, but not rough considering how low and tight the suspension was.
As far as the title of the thread goes, it was asking for Opinions needed for the Best mods UNDER 500.00.
Im not going to doubt your experience and etc.
But seems odd to me that you having so much experience with so many high end cars and knowlege in extensive fabrication are on a Maxima board asking questions about low idle and quiet exhaust setups.
I mentioned the GR2s because the AGXs would have been more ideal for that drop if you wanted to stay with KYB. But since you know KYB you already know this.
Iv never been in a Ferrari, but have been in some Porsches and they rode fairly well. Suspension was tight, but not rough considering how low and tight the suspension was.
As far as the title of the thread goes, it was asking for Opinions needed for the Best mods UNDER 500.00.
Im not going to doubt your experience and etc.
But seems odd to me that you having so much experience with so many high end cars and knowlege in extensive fabrication are on a Maxima board asking questions about low idle and quiet exhaust setups.
but I digress I wasnt tryn to fight or argue with anyone I enjoy being a part of this community and I have much respect for you and your car and your enthusiasm, with that being said Im sorry if I said something you feel was untrue or unfounded or stupid, Id just like to end the argument and let other people voice there opinions for a while. much respect & I hope we can help each other in the future.
08-18-2008, 04:42 PM
#55
why is it odd? when you have allot of experience you see that other peoples experiences and opinions can at times be extremely valuable and save you allot of time while trouble shooting. (my problem was the engine harness which is not the first thing one checks when idle is disturbed and if you check, I found the problem on my own anyway) as far as exhaust goes parts are expensive and instead taking the time and money to try different combos I figured I would ask some .orgers that may have done already done something similar. (the customers with custom cars have money to burn trying different setups until they are happy, I do not).
but I digress I wasnt tryn to fight or argue with anyone I enjoy being a part of this community and I have much respect for you and your car and your enthusiasm, with that being said Im sorry if I said something you feel was untrue or unfounded or stupid, Id just like to end the argument and let other people voice there opinions for a while. much respect & I hope we can help each other in the future.
but I digress I wasnt tryn to fight or argue with anyone I enjoy being a part of this community and I have much respect for you and your car and your enthusiasm, with that being said Im sorry if I said something you feel was untrue or unfounded or stupid, Id just like to end the argument and let other people voice there opinions for a while. much respect & I hope we can help each other in the future.
Agreed and no hard feelings.
08-18-2008, 05:55 PM
#57
08-18-2008, 09:12 PM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Bethany Beach, DE
Posts: 127
for 1,000 dollars you can buy my sweet *** bass rig!
http://forums.maxima.org/other-sale-...uitar-rig.html
my vote is y-pipe
http://forums.maxima.org/other-sale-...uitar-rig.html
my vote is y-pipe
08-19-2008, 06:42 AM
#63
I didnt notice a huge difference going from the Y Pipe to the Cattman headers, I know its there, more so since Im boosted. But it dosesnt feel insanely different.
08-19-2008, 08:53 AM
#64
are any of these a good deal / not shxtty?
y pipe & headers 1
y-pipe & headers 2
(Warpspeed) y-pipe & high-flow cat
y pipe & headers 1
y-pipe & headers 2
(Warpspeed) y-pipe & high-flow cat
08-19-2008, 09:03 AM
#65
hey, they're not yoke's or kumho's, but they are performing really well for me. i had them on my 240 back in the day and i am very impressed. recommended btw.
08-19-2008, 09:15 AM
#66
10-09-2008, 10:51 AM
#67
this thread helped me alot. I know this isn't a mod as such, but I bought a 95' GLE and am thinkin about either rebuilding the tranny or converting to standard. I have all the components for the transfer. What would be cheaper?
10-09-2008, 04:48 PM
#68
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 30
i have done the boosted thing..and it is great, but very expensive to do on a N/A car. I also agree that you dont have to build up the motor for boost..i have a buddy with a camaro with stock internals boosting 23 PSI..now i understand there is a difference between a camaro and a Max, but the only point i am trying to get across is with the right tuning and upgraded fuel parts you can run stock internals with more boost then 15 PSI.
Now when it comes to best bang for the buck i have heard nothing but good things about the y pipe swap..that is what i am currently looking into, but my car is already cammed, variable intake, CAI and what not so im hoping it will give me the low end power i am lacking. If you look around you should be able to actually find a Full header and exhaust kit in your price range..i have. I found it on ebay and i dont really know if it is quality that is the only real issue.
Now when it comes to best bang for the buck i have heard nothing but good things about the y pipe swap..that is what i am currently looking into, but my car is already cammed, variable intake, CAI and what not so im hoping it will give me the low end power i am lacking. If you look around you should be able to actually find a Full header and exhaust kit in your price range..i have. I found it on ebay and i dont really know if it is quality that is the only real issue.
10-09-2008, 04:58 PM
#69
If you had to start from scratch, and assuming you're doing the work yourself and have the knowledge to do so, rebuilding the auto would be cheaper. If a shop has to rebuild the auto tranny whereas you would do the swap, then the swap would be slightly cheaper.
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