$20 reward....replaced fuel injectors, now car wont start...
07-20-2008, 12:29 AM
#41
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 22
I've had 2 injectors that were bad but would still click only it was a slightly fainter click.
07-20-2008, 02:58 PM
#44
Originally Posted by pahaf
hey guys, so i accidentally broke one of my injectors, and it was pouring fuel into the engine, so it ran like crap....so i decide to replace it, but ended up buying all of them.
thats y everyone has been saying that, he broke one and he got 5 skunks outta a 6 pack
07-20-2008, 03:03 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
07-20-2008, 06:30 PM
#46
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
IT"S A FUSE IN THE ENGINE BAY (check dash ones 2nd) LABELED SOMETHING SIMILIAR TO THE FOLLOWING:
ECCS, ECCS2, ECM, etc
PAYPAL IS KEVGOODS@HOTMAIL.COM
To verify, you can check the fuses (duh) or you can check the wire containing red on any of the 6 injectors for 12v's power.
If the fuse is good and you have power @ the injectors, stick your head in the passanger side left foot area and smell, if you somehow shorted out an injector driver you will smell it, though I doubt that is the problem since it's VERY unlikely that you shorted out all of the drivers, one or two will only cause an "un-findable" misfire (unless you start tracking things back with a noid light.)
ECCS, ECCS2, ECM, etc
PAYPAL IS KEVGOODS@HOTMAIL.COM
To verify, you can check the fuses (duh) or you can check the wire containing red on any of the 6 injectors for 12v's power.
If the fuse is good and you have power @ the injectors, stick your head in the passanger side left foot area and smell, if you somehow shorted out an injector driver you will smell it, though I doubt that is the problem since it's VERY unlikely that you shorted out all of the drivers, one or two will only cause an "un-findable" misfire (unless you start tracking things back with a noid light.)
Last edited by KRRZ350; 07-20-2008 at 06:37 PM.
07-21-2008, 03:46 PM
#48
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
^^
Even not considering the circumstances, one time I did a passanger side axle and the car wouldn't start. I still can't figure that one out, it was so routine and everything went without a hitch. The other time I popped it was doing a rear valve cover on a 5.5 gen, had the cam sensor wire get pinched & shorted out. Both times same symptoms, no start, no codes, spark, but no fuel. But anyways, my auto teacher told us that anytime a car isn't firing up the 1st two things you should do is check the oil & the fuses, go figure, it's helped me out a few times, the one time I waited 1/2 hour and checked other stuff I felt like a retard afterwards for something I could have found in seconds.
Even not considering the circumstances, one time I did a passanger side axle and the car wouldn't start. I still can't figure that one out, it was so routine and everything went without a hitch. The other time I popped it was doing a rear valve cover on a 5.5 gen, had the cam sensor wire get pinched & shorted out. Both times same symptoms, no start, no codes, spark, but no fuel. But anyways, my auto teacher told us that anytime a car isn't firing up the 1st two things you should do is check the oil & the fuses, go figure, it's helped me out a few times, the one time I waited 1/2 hour and checked other stuff I felt like a retard afterwards for something I could have found in seconds.
07-22-2008, 11:15 AM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 533
^^
Even not considering the circumstances, one time I did a passanger side axle and the car wouldn't start. I still can't figure that one out, it was so routine and everything went without a hitch. The other time I popped it was doing a rear valve cover on a 5.5 gen, had the cam sensor wire get pinched & shorted out. Both times same symptoms, no start, no codes, spark, but no fuel. But anyways, my auto teacher told us that anytime a car isn't firing up the 1st two things you should do is check the oil & the fuses, go figure, it's helped me out a few times, the one time I waited 1/2 hour and checked other stuff I felt like a retard afterwards for something I could have found in seconds.
Even not considering the circumstances, one time I did a passanger side axle and the car wouldn't start. I still can't figure that one out, it was so routine and everything went without a hitch. The other time I popped it was doing a rear valve cover on a 5.5 gen, had the cam sensor wire get pinched & shorted out. Both times same symptoms, no start, no codes, spark, but no fuel. But anyways, my auto teacher told us that anytime a car isn't firing up the 1st two things you should do is check the oil & the fuses, go figure, it's helped me out a few times, the one time I waited 1/2 hour and checked other stuff I felt like a retard afterwards for something I could have found in seconds.
07-22-2008, 07:16 PM
#50
Checking The Oil and Fuses is Just Good Practice, You should do it even when you arnt working on the car. I remember back when i first got my max, the ABS light would stay on and being 16 i wasnt aware that that was a bad thing. Yes, we all start somewhere. I checked the fuses the Day Before a HUGE storm in which the ABS proablably saved me and a carload of friends lives. Maintinance is the key to a healthy vehicle, the sooner people learn that the better.
07-22-2008, 07:27 PM
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Philadelphia PA
Posts: 533
Checking The Oil and Fuses is Just Good Practice, You should do it even when you arnt working on the car. I remember back when i first got my max, the ABS light would stay on and being 16 i wasnt aware that that was a bad thing. Yes, we all start somewhere. I checked the fuses the Day Before a HUGE storm in which the ABS proablably saved me and a carload of friends lives. Maintinance is the key to a healthy vehicle, the sooner people learn that the better.
07-23-2008, 01:23 AM
#52
all right guys, sorry for no replying. but here is wats going on. my old injectors, i threw 3 of them right away becusae they were in really bad condition, and had 3 left...the new ones were put on and didnt spray, so i put the 3 old ones on, and they DID spray....so i need another pair of injectors....so i ordered new ones, and they should be here by friday YAY!!! lol. also, whlie everything is taken apart, i decided to change the knock sensor since its broken, i got the A100...
meanwhile, i gotta drive this........thing...
Kidding, i wish i drove that...thats a Supra Turbo that some lucky guy owns that still lives with his mom....LOL
meanwhile, while my maxima is out of comision, i gotta drive this CRAP....
sorry for the crappy pictures, but its a phone camera..
this ford suck. 2.0 with 115hp when it was new, but now its like 2hp. barely moves. lol and its not even that economical
i'll be back when my injectors arive
meanwhile, i gotta drive this........thing...
Kidding, i wish i drove that...thats a Supra Turbo that some lucky guy owns that still lives with his mom....LOL
meanwhile, while my maxima is out of comision, i gotta drive this CRAP....
sorry for the crappy pictures, but its a phone camera..
this ford suck. 2.0 with 115hp when it was new, but now its like 2hp. barely moves. lol and its not even that economical
i'll be back when my injectors arive
07-23-2008, 04:54 PM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 229
im unclear on something... you said you disconected everything while your key was on and wonder if that would effect anything. i am assuming that you left the battery connected also ? if that was the case, do not do either of those things again to prevent the risk of shorting sensors, throwing codes...oh, and that red hot shiat that happens when spark and fuel meet.... just sayin
07-25-2008, 05:57 PM
#55
today i received locknuts injectors, put them on, put everything, took me like a hour, trying to start the car,,,,battery dead....charge it, and cranks, but doesn't start.......i look, camshaft sensor disconnected....connect it, reset the computer, and it started right away....then in 5 seconds, there was massive smoke out the exhaust, this is because the last injectors flooded the engine and were in the exhaust.....let it run for 2 min, smoke clears...drive car around neighborhood, and fall in love with it again lol...
07-25-2008, 06:05 PM
#56
Nice! 
For some reason I saw the Contour in that photo and automatically assumed it was an SVT Contour, I was like niiicceeeee...oohhh plastic hubcaps uh oh EDIT: and crap written on the windsheild, I didn't notice that till just now LMAO.
For some reason I saw the Contour in that photo and automatically assumed it was an SVT Contour, I was like niiicceeeee...oohhh plastic hubcaps uh oh EDIT: and crap written on the windsheild, I didn't notice that till just now LMAO.
07-25-2008, 06:12 PM
#57
that was the worst 3 weeks of my life lol...0-60 i tested it got 15 seconds...pathetic. everything rattles lol...i hate it, but i guess becuase of it i tried to do everything faster. lol to get rid of it...
07-25-2008, 09:03 PM
#58
so would i be intitled to the $20?? 
glad to hear you getting it up and going man glad i could help. just out of curiousity did you just hook up my whole fuel rail or did you take out seperate injectors???
glad to hear you getting it up and going man glad i could help. just out of curiousity did you just hook up my whole fuel rail or did you take out seperate injectors???
Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; 07-25-2008 at 09:21 PM.
07-25-2008, 10:32 PM
#59
yeah...you get the $20..I'll send it asap lol....used everything you sent me lol...the fuel rail, and injectors....i just took out the single connector.
08-16-2008, 05:35 PM
#61
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2
Bad Fuel Injector
I have one bad fuel injector (I think).
Here's the story: The ECU code showed "knock sensor" and "#5 cylinder misfire." I switched the coil on #5 (with #3) and reset the ECU. The code still showed "#5 misfire" and "knock sensor." Then I switched the #5 and #3 spark plugs and reset the ECU. Now the ECU code just shows #5 misfire. So, having ruled out the coil and spark plug, I guess it's my #5 fuel injector that's causing the problem (rough idle, rough acceleration).
Do I have to take out the fuel injector or is it worth trying some commercial injector cleaner? If I do have to take out the #5 injector, can you direct me to step by step instructions?
Thanks much.
Here's the story: The ECU code showed "knock sensor" and "#5 cylinder misfire." I switched the coil on #5 (with #3) and reset the ECU. The code still showed "#5 misfire" and "knock sensor." Then I switched the #5 and #3 spark plugs and reset the ECU. Now the ECU code just shows #5 misfire. So, having ruled out the coil and spark plug, I guess it's my #5 fuel injector that's causing the problem (rough idle, rough acceleration).
Do I have to take out the fuel injector or is it worth trying some commercial injector cleaner? If I do have to take out the #5 injector, can you direct me to step by step instructions?
Thanks much.
08-16-2008, 05:55 PM
#62
I have one bad fuel injector (I think).
Here's the story: The ECU code showed "knock sensor" and "#5 cylinder misfire." I switched the coil on #5 (with #3) and reset the ECU. The code still showed "#5 misfire" and "knock sensor." Then I switched the #5 and #3 spark plugs and reset the ECU. Now the ECU code just shows #5 misfire. So, having ruled out the coil and spark plug, I guess it's my #5 fuel injector that's causing the problem (rough idle, rough acceleration).
Do I have to take out the fuel injector or is it worth trying some commercial injector cleaner? If I do have to take out the #5 injector, can you direct me to step by step instructions?
Thanks much.
Here's the story: The ECU code showed "knock sensor" and "#5 cylinder misfire." I switched the coil on #5 (with #3) and reset the ECU. The code still showed "#5 misfire" and "knock sensor." Then I switched the #5 and #3 spark plugs and reset the ECU. Now the ECU code just shows #5 misfire. So, having ruled out the coil and spark plug, I guess it's my #5 fuel injector that's causing the problem (rough idle, rough acceleration).
Do I have to take out the fuel injector or is it worth trying some commercial injector cleaner? If I do have to take out the #5 injector, can you direct me to step by step instructions?
Thanks much.
feel free to ask if u got any other questions...
and if u need a injector, i got a couple laying around.
08-16-2008, 07:43 PM
#64
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
It depends on if the injector is indeed the problem, misfire codes are detected by the crankshaft position sensor determining whether or not combustion happens in each cylinder because it can see when the crank speeds up and slows down each time a cylinder fires. So anything related to Intake, compression, fuel, spark, and exhaust can cause a misfire code. As you can see, there is hundreds of things on that list. But it's safe to say that in your situation it's probably the injector, but if it were me I'd flip it upside down and watch it spray and if it didn't I'd double check power and ground using a NOID LIGHT ONLY. But that's just me......
Anyways, pull an injector from a yard, they won't charge you crap. I wouldn't bother cleaning it, that's probably not the reason for failure anyways.
Anyways, pull an injector from a yard, they won't charge you crap. I wouldn't bother cleaning it, that's probably not the reason for failure anyways.
08-16-2008, 09:28 PM
#65
the only time I've had problems with injectors, the resistance was way up. It should be in the 14-17k ohm range (iirc). I had some that were 25ish and didn't work, and then one was in the 200k range
09-29-2008, 02:30 AM
#66
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3
Great info!
Hey guys,
Great info was found here, I replaced #1 cylinder injector without any problems. Thank you everybody.
BTW
I still have active CARFAX account, so in case somebody is looking to buy a car and need to do a Vehicle history report go ahead and send me the VIN at my e-mail address.
Great info was found here, I replaced #1 cylinder injector without any problems. Thank you everybody.
BTW
I still have active CARFAX account, so in case somebody is looking to buy a car and need to do a Vehicle history report go ahead and send me the VIN at my e-mail address.
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