bmessick

Guys, I'm am desperate for some help here.

A few weeks ago my 97 Maxima died. I figured it was the alternator because I had just replaced the battery in October of last year. So, I run to Kragen and buy a new alternator. I installed it that day and still had problems starting the car. I took the battery to Kragen and they did a warranty swap and gave me a brand new battery.

Everything was great until 2 weeks later. The car died again. The battery was dead and did not have enough juice to start it again. I called a mechanic friend of mine and he told me to charge the battery overnight and would be out the next day with his volt meter. After several quick tests he concluded I received a faulty alternator from Kragen and to take it back for yet another warranty swap.

I put the car on stands again, yanked the alternator, took it up to Kragen and they would not give me a new one as the current alternator passed their electrical test 5 different times. Let me tell you how happy that made me.

So here I am. For some reason the car will not charge the battery. All connections have been tested and examined for corrosion. My mechanic friend was unable to isolate the issue. He ran through each on the fuses, eliminated those. Said it may be the fuseable link but neither of us can locate it. He did experience a 0.400 resistance to the battery from the alternator. I have no idea wtf that means.

Here are a few other symptoms or things I have noticed. Unlike many other threads whom have had the battery and brake lights come on, mine are not on. The check engine light is not on. Now, when I use the key fob to lock the doors the security light stays on. It does not flash like it used to. I started the car today (battery was still charged and I hoped the problem would just go away as I am selling the car) and the battery was producing 14.40 volts at first. Within the next 5 minutes it had dropped to 14.03 volts and still dropping. When inside the running car, pressing the brake pedal or rolling down the windows causes dimming in the rest of the lights. Unfortunately, I am the worst when it comes to electrical anything. I have a voltmeter but only know how to test a couple things.

Your help is much appreciated!!!! Especially if we find a solution.

alset2

iTrader: (1)

is there a way you can check the alternator output when it is cold vs hot?
like when you first star the car,check the output, after the car runs a while and warms up check the output again.It could be a heat related issue althogh what you are describing sounds a little like a parasitc draw when the car is setting.if you have a volt meter you might want to check for that also.
when you check the alternaor rev the engine up above 2500 rpms and see what you get too.
Hope this helps

SVI30

There is quite a bit discussed in this thread related to your problem:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=549757

It will be helpful if you list your location in the profile, year and mileage of your car etc. Are there any addition to the car such as a big audio amplifier etc?

I just replaced my alternator and it is a Nissan reman unit. It went in on Saturday and worked without a hitch.

SVI30

Check the GND cables too, both the battery GND and the engine GND.

cvacinek

i'm having a very similar problem... got a new battery, which worked great for a day then went dead. Took the alternator off and took to autozone, and it tested fine. No warning lights are on. Starter makes noise sometimes when it starts... needs internal greasing but it's made noise like that off and on for over a year and i've never had a problem. now what?

JSMax

iTrader: (13)

your alternator need to be put on a amperage test. I had a new rebuilt one that I had installed and it didn't put out any more than 50 amps. When that alternator was bench tested it passed. However on the car with everything running it failed. So.... I ended up purchaseing a nissan rebuild unit and all has been fine since.

You could have a problem with your factory security system that is not allowing the car to go into sleep mode. Take it in and have the nissan tech.s diagnose it. My car was showing something rediculous for voltage drop and when the security system was repaired the voltage came back into normal range.

check my thread here for my problems and fixes.
good luck as I know how frustrating this can become.

bmessick

I read your post at length yesterday but my problem is I'm not going to drop more than (at most) another $200 into this car as I am going to be selling it...cheap maybe around $3200-$3500. If I could figure out a way to check the factory security system I would because like I said before, the security light stays on when I use the key fob to lock the car. It no longer flashes like it used to.

Yes, I have a bigger stereo system in it but have verified all cables are grounded properly and nothing has come loose. I have also checked the main fuse on the positive cable. All fine. Didn't expect differently because the system was professionally installed over 6 years ago. I have only upgraded the two amps and the sub which was done 2 years ago. Doubt the problem lies here.

And because I'm a volt meter/electrical idiot, can somebody give me an idea of how to test the alternator output with my voltmeter? Yesterday I check the larger cable that is secured to the alternator by a nut not the two little wires connected by a clip. I touched that with the red probe and grounded the black but cannot remember what reading I was getting.

As far as location and other info:
Concord, CA (outside of SF)
97 Maxima SE 5 spd
125K miles (roughly)

SVI30

My new Nissan brand reman alternator only cost $60+S/H off eBay, but it was posted for a Murano. $200 is plenty of money.

Check the engine GND strap. Should be on the starter. Is the alternator bolts tight? They are the GND to the engine.

arpangurjar

You are having a parasitic battery drain if the car just drains the battery. There is a sticky somewhere, or just put in google "Parasitic Battery drain" you should get it, Check the resistance and continuity from the positive cable of the battery to the alternator.

bmessick

I forgot one major detail. The car will die on me even while driving it. It's as if the alternator is not charging the battery at all. If that weren't the problem I would simply go to Kragen and have them test the alternator with the car running but the last thing I want to do is get there and not be able to drive the damn thing back.

I only drive the car 2 miles one way to get to work. The last time I drove it was getting back to my house and when I was no more than 300 feet away the stereo cut out. Then when I pulled in to park the car stalled. I noticed that when I turned the headlights on the dash light dimmed to nearly half brightness.

JSMax

iTrader: (13)

sell it cheap... 3200-3500 with the bad alternator. nissan diagnosed my security system for 90. to fix the alternator problem list it at 4000.
good luck.

bmessick

Hell, I was going to sell it cheap with it fixed and the system. Now, I'm ready yank the system and park it in a not-so-great neighborhood and see if it comes up missing.

This alternator thing is really bugging me.

Can somebody tell me which anything about the black clip that attaches to the alternator? Is there a way for me to test that connection with the volt meter? How can I test, with my volt meter, to ensure enough juice is being pumped to the battery?

I have a feeling it's something small that I'm just not getting that will relieve me of my worries.

alset2

iTrader: (1)

the clip I think you are talking about is to energize the fields...It should be getting battery voltage...not sure wich one you will have to refer to a shop manual for that
to check the voltage output at the battery simply put the poistive probe on the positve bat. terminal ,and negative to negative .do this with the car running. read the voltage and then rev the engine up to about 2500-3000 rpms and read it again.it should be in the neighborhood of 14.2-14.8 volts.
as was mentioned befor you might want to check the amperage output but unless you have a hall effect probe for your multimeter you cant do that.It would be easier to take the car to a different place and ask them to check your charging system for you just too see what someone who doesnt have to replace it says...
hope this helps

bmessick

Thanks. Kinda what I was hoping I could do myself. Don't want to drive to the auto parts store just to get stranded. Sounds like I'm f'ed.

alset2

iTrader: (1)

well you can check to voltage output easy enough.Have yuo done that yet?
dont worry about being stranded, they should have the means to get you started.hell ,dont shut the car off
oh wait ,you said the car will die while you are driving it didnt you...hmmmm,man sure sound like a bad alternator and/or battery.
Take it to a shop and ask them to check it out, if you call around you should find one that will check it for you,we checked for free so that way we would get the job.dont know if its still like that though.

JSMax

iTrader: (13)

and depending on the alternator.... some will only put out 13.9. Mine new rebuilt is 13.7 before all the grounds were cleaned. 13.9 after. of course I have a underdrive crank pulley, but even at full charge (2200rpms) it still will only put out 13.9 volts. It's the amperage that had me f'ed.

Is there anyway you can afford to purchase another alternator and install that one to see if it is the current alternator? If a new alternator fixes your problem just return the "old" new one and tell the store your problem. Keep your orginal sales bill and you should get the money back.
good luck.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

If you wanna see if the internal regulator is working....measure you battery voltage with car off, start car and measure voltage @ battery again, now turn on your a/c blower to full speed, turn on your headlight to hi-beam, turn on flashers and finally step on the brakes...Now read you voltage output! If you're below 12.5 volts it's time for a new altenator! Oh yeah don't forgot that big audio system turn it on too!

JSMax

iTrader: (13)

and the rear defroster.... that's a major drain on the charging system. If you have fog lights turn them on too.