Vibration over 70 mph. - Page 2

hermtm2 · 06-25-2008, 10:04 PM

Finally the virbration is gone tonight. The vibration has bothered me for 1 year and I spent about $400 to fix that. More than 3 times alignments and 4 times tire balance etc... There was nothing. Tonight I saw ad for a set of used rims with tires and then just decided to buy them. The stock rims is replaced 205/65R 15" (stock size) to 245/45R 17". I have a test drive with the replaced rims. It is a great!!! Absolutely no vibration and better grip. I carefully recommand the new rims with tire could be a solution.

I have a question about the tire size. Is the 245 size fine for my 96 I30? Or Do I have to modify something? Is that too wide?

Thanks.

DreamCatcher · 06-25-2008, 10:43 PM

That's interesting that you were able to get rid of it by getting new wheels. I had the same issue, but changing the front brake rotors fixed it. I am not very sure how that worked out, but it did!

GreenMtnMaxima · 06-26-2008, 10:33 AM

So, new unbent wheels solved the vibration problem? How is it that if wheels were your problem, you didn't feel anything at ALL speeds? It seems like misshapen/bent rims will always cause problems...

I've had vibrations for what seems like forever on my 97 Max. I've had alignments, balances, new tires, rotations, new struts/springs. Never goes away. One of the only things I haven't rules out as the source is a bent wheel or two. It's most noticable at high speeds, but it's there at ALL speeds.

hermtm2 · 06-26-2008, 01:57 PM

I was wrong. I brought my car to get air in the discount tire store this morning. They checked air pressure and then made tire rotation because the tires were not correctly mounted. The tires has a specific rotate direction. At the last night I couldn't drive up more than 80mph in the local road. I drive to highway this morning. The vibration is still there between 60 and 70 mph. The vibration is get worse whenever I push the pedal.
If it isn't suspension, I doubt about the passenger side axle which was I replaced at the last year.

hermtm2 · 07-01-2008, 08:01 PM

I found something today. The driver's side rear wheel makes a grinding noise when the wheel is turning. If the wheel isn't bent or something wrong, it should not make any noise like the other wheels. I doubt that the rear spindle might slightly bent.

Thanks.

speedracerSE · 07-01-2008, 08:51 PM

The wheel beerings are bad. Unless you have a bad drive shaft, but I doubt if you have one. I'de go with checking wheel bearings.

CMax03 · 07-02-2008, 02:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hermtm2

I replaced the stock rims to 18" rims but it still has a viration at the certain speed. I'm guessing the shock or suspension part.

Thanks.

Just jack your car up and inspect your frontend! If you have a vibration between 55-75 mph it's a wheel/tire balance issue! Bent rims depending how severe, vary but a bent rim can be felt at 20 mph if it's severe enough. Since you just changed wheels and tires (upgraded), I would suggest you check you inner or outer tierod ends.....

hermtm2 · 07-02-2008, 11:59 AM

I ask about the noise to mechanic. It could be "wheel bearing" problem. If the bearing is bad, does it make the vibration?

Can I replace the wheel bearing by myself? Do I have to buy any special tools for the job?

Thanks.

sMel · 07-01-2009, 08:43 AM

I've got this exact vibration problem after having a shop to install a junk-yard transmission on my I30'96. Transmission works great otherwise, it's already a year I can't drive on the highway though.
Just wondering if it's the transmission, or just a bad installation job...

I also suspect the passenger axle. It has been bought at the place recommended by ORG, but still.

hermtm2 · 07-01-2009, 09:42 AM

I could not fix the problem. The tranny was rebuilt but I didn't know what kinds of parts the shop used for. Also the car began to make a lot of problem after the tranny was touched by the shop. The worst one was not to start the engine as well as vibration. Finally the shop installed the tranny could not fix the starting problem. We went to another shop. The second shop told me that the surface between transmission and engine was too dirty to find properly starting position. I don't know what the exact meaning is. Unfortunately the starting problem was reocurred again and again for having the I30.

I can't exactly remember what I did but those were the list to be done.

1. Tranny rebuilt
2. Passenger axle replaced
3. tire balance (4 times)

Thanks.

loxety · 07-01-2009, 10:31 AM

FYI wheel balance cost $5 per wheel at walmart

sMel · 07-01-2009, 11:07 AM

many people here balancing and rebalancing the wheels to no avail, myself included. Swapping front and rear wheels was also tried.

andreMax · 07-01-2009, 11:25 AM

This is my first post.

I have an 1997 Max SE that has been exhibiting the same vibration issue between 70-80 mph. It started after I had replaced a set of Michelin Sport 225/50R16 with an NTB SIgma Regents 215/55R16 (OEM size), then the front end started vibrating, several times the tires were rebalanced and the fromnt end was aligned, gave up on those tires I figured the were defective and had NTB swap them out with their Yokohama AS430s 2215/55R16s. Serveral time they were align and the vibrations were less, I figured the slighly smaller Michelins had damaged something in my front end. I had my Nissan dealership look at them, but they said the front end was fine.

I will try the suggestion with road force balancer and have my rims checked; I'll post my results if my vibration issue gets solved.

Regards,

larso1 · 07-01-2009, 06:02 PM

Hey guys, same problem here. "97 SE 5-spd. Vibration from 65mph on up. Used to ride like it was on glass a couple years back, even to an indicated 120mph once. I've replaced the axles, the brake rotors, had alignments and balancing three times. Well, finally had four new Yokohamas put on w/ balance. It did dramatically reduce the vibration, not completely gone, just perceptible from 70 to 80 but I can live with it. I'm really starting to think I have a slightly bent rim that you can't readily see with a visual inspection, with the tire on. These are alloy rims after all (stock ones) and I'm sure between members of my family they've hit a curb once or twice and may have slightly deformed one...or two. There's a couple shops in a nearby town that specialize in straightening alloy rims...think I'll take it there and give it a try.

*ColombianMax* · 07-01-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hermtm2

I was wrong. I brought my car to get air in the discount tire store this morning. They checked air pressure and then made tire rotation because the tires were not correctly mounted. The tires has a specific rotate direction. At the last night I couldn't drive up more than 80mph in the local road. I drive to highway this morning. The vibration is still there between 60 and 70 mph. The vibration is get worse whenever I push the pedal.
If it isn't suspension, I doubt about the passenger side axle which was I replaced at the last year.

ding ding ding.... I had the same problem until just 2 hours ago. I just replaced my transmission mount. As I would drive and give it some gas the car would vibrate until I let go of the gas pedal. hope that is all you need cuz its 47 bucks for auto trans mount and 57 for manual trans mount at idiot zone

If you have an automatic you can test for yourself by getting a second person to help you

1. Pop your hood
2. start your car
3. as someone else looks in the engine bay, hold your break pedal and put your car on "D"
4. Continue by shifting to "R" and just keep back and forth from "D" to "R" and see if the engine and trans move a lot
5. you can also verify by putting it in either "R" or "D" hold the brake pedal firmly and lightly step on the accelerator to see if it moves more.

Try that and report back to us

andreMax · 07-08-2009, 11:07 AM

Hi,

How much should the engine normally move when changing between R and D? I believe my engine moved approximately between 2-3 inches as the switches between R and D took place.

Regards

GreenTea · 07-08-2009, 11:04 PM

Vibration problems sometimes can be the front struts going bad. Esp at 100K+ miles.

andreMax · 07-17-2009, 10:56 AM

I took my Max to my dealer and had the transmission mounts checked. They checked out ok and got the tires re-balanced since from my records it was a while since it they had been rebalanced, I did not think it was a long time since my last rebalance. Vibration has been significantly reduced; however, it's still there slightly. I give up

. Other than that my 12 yr Max still runs like when I first got it new

.

-03MaxGLE- · 07-17-2009, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andreMax

I took my Max to my dealer and had the transmission mounts checked. They checked out ok and got the tires re-balanced since from my records it was a while since it they had been rebalanced, I did not think it was a long time since my last rebalance. Vibration has been significantly reduced; however, it's still there slightly. I give up

. Other than that my 12 yr Max still runs like when I first got it new

.

hell yeah age of maxima doesnt even matter how it should ride they always should ride like new n if it doesnt get ready to get ur hand dirty
glad u solved ur prob man

hermtm2 · 07-17-2009, 11:16 AM

I sold the I30 a year ago. It remembered me the vibration wasn't solved. Also the tranny was rebuilt when I got the I30. What I've learned from the I30, the tranny job have had should be taken care of professional mechanics. I didn't know the shop where they screwed me up were not qualified but there were cheaper. Eventually I put more money that it supposed to be.

-03MaxGLE- · 07-17-2009, 11:22 AM

uuugh yeah you deff want to give that kinda stuff to the profesionals to deal with tranny....thats important piece to work on

FingerStink · 07-17-2009, 11:40 AM

I recently had this problem in my 2002 and in my old 98 which caused the car to vibrate but only at 70+ mph. Both had worn out control arm bushings. On the 96 I changed the bushing and had to get it pressed into the control arm. When this happend to my 2002, I said screw it and bought a whole new control arm with all 3 new bushings in it. Found out it was only $40 more than my first swap in my 96, but took 6 hours less to do and was an easy removal of old and in with new one. Saved alot of time and effort and especially in this Houston heat!