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I'm having issues with my E_Brake, It doesn't stop the car when it's enabled, but when I pull it up the "BRAKE" light turns on, and when I put it down it turns off. Is there a chance that the e-brake cable snapped (I was under the impression that the light would stay on if that were the case)? If so is it a fix i could do myself? or is there anything else that could be wrong with it?
oh it's really easy! open the e-break boot and there is a screw and you just tight it up! thats how i fixed mine and it took 2 minutes, but if you need to adjust it from the back, you need someone else's help!
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1996 nissan maxima
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You might want to check your rear brake calipers. I just had my rear left one replaced yesterday (2nd time now). My original one seized up and cooked my brake disc (2 years ago). I replaced it with a rebuilt one. A few months ago, the handbrake started acting wonky. The problem was with the little "arm" on the caliper that's connected to the e-brake cable. It's spring-loaded and supposed to pivot freely when the e-brake handle is released. The problem was it did NOT release freely so the pad was rubbing too much against the brake disc. I've heard that e-brake system is prone to this problem.
You might want to check your rear brake calipers. I just had my rear left one replaced yesterday (2nd time now). My original one seized up and cooked my brake disc (2 years ago). I replaced it with a rebuilt one. A few months ago, the handbrake started acting wonky. The problem was with the little "arm" on the caliper that's connected to the e-brake cable. It's spring-loaded and supposed to pivot freely when the e-brake handle is released. The problem was it did NOT release freely so the pad was rubbing too much against the brake disc. I've heard that e-brake system is prone to this problem.
i'll look into that, but adjusting the nut on the ebrake handle helped.
I have a problem with my E brake also It doesnt stop the car I adjusted the nut under the boot it helped alittle bit i think but still didnt stop the car... I have constant grinding sounds comming from the rear when i hit the brakes.. im thinking its the pads worn in the back.. but would that cause the E brake not to work?
You might have a bad caliper as noted above. I had the same issue- didn't really stop the car and I could hear the brakes dragging. The bad news is that I had to replace both calipers in the back.
i'm having the same problem, my ebrake use to only need to come up like 3-4 clicks but now it's like at least 7, but now it feels pinched, the car is not moving as fast as should. Do i need to adjust?, is the cable snapped or something else ?
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1996 Nissan Maxima SE 5spd "dArkpUrpLe syRup"
i'm having the same problem, my ebrake use to only need to come up like 3-4 clicks but now it's like at least 7, but now it feels pinched, the car is not moving as fast as should. Do i need to adjust?, is the cable snapped or something else ?
By 'pinched' you mean it feels like the brakes are dragging?
Have you taken a look at the rear calipers to see if the pivot arm is stuck in place?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Sorry for this obvious question but I couldn't find any information on doing this... is there a write-up on how to adjust the ebrake from the calipers? I tried screwing in the nut on the e-brake boot, but it is turned near all the way and won't turn anymore. But it still takes over 10 clicks to stop completely, but adjusting it helped a lot. Before the e-brake handle used to go up so high that it pulled the boot out just to be tensioned enough to keep the car in place.
Sorry for this obvious question but I couldn't find any information on doing this... is there a write-up on how to adjust the ebrake from the calipers? I tried screwing in the nut on the e-brake boot, but it is turned near all the way and won't turn anymore. But it still takes over 10 clicks to stop completely, but adjusting it helped a lot. Before the e-brake handle used to go up so high that it pulled the boot out just to be tensioned enough to keep the car in place.
There is no adjustment at the calipers. So the adjustment nut it bottomed out? It's possible the cables have stretched.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
I have a problem with my E brake also It doesnt stop the car I adjusted the nut under the boot it helped alittle bit i think but still didnt stop the car... I have constant grinding sounds comming from the rear when i hit the brakes.. im thinking its the pads worn in the back.. but would that cause the E brake not to work?
when was the last time you had your rear pads replaced? i heard grinding coming from my rear wheels and when i took my tire off my rotor was all messed up. i would get that fixed before you have to get a whole new caliper...
You might want to check your rear brake calipers. I just had my rear left one replaced yesterday (2nd time now). My original one seized up and cooked my brake disc (2 years ago). I replaced it with a rebuilt one. A few months ago, the handbrake started acting wonky. The problem was with the little "arm" on the caliper that's connected to the e-brake cable. It's spring-loaded and supposed to pivot freely when the e-brake handle is released. The problem was it did NOT release freely so the pad was rubbing too much against the brake disc. I've heard that e-brake system is prone to this problem.
Sorry to re-res this old thread, but it seemed relevent.
My ebrake only works on the passenger side. I've taken the wheel off on the drivers side and I can watch the cable move the thing it's connected to. The spring works fine too it just doesn't stop the wheel. To see if it was the caliper itself I grabbed a mop handle and pushed on the brake pedal while trying to spin the rotor. It wouldn't budge.
So, the caliper doesn't seem to be seized completely... it's just the ebrake portion of the caliper that doesn't work.
Is the ebrake completely mechanical?... meaning does it completely bypass anything hydraulic and just connect directly to the piston? Or is it just mechanical up to the caliper and at the point use the hydraulic fluid in the caliper to move the piston. Hope that made sense.
I guess what I'm getting at is it possible there is just air in the caliper and a bleed might fix... or do i just need to replace the thing.
Sorry to re-res this old thread, but it seemed relevent.
My ebrake only works on the passenger side. I've taken the wheel off on the drivers side and I can watch the cable move the thing it's connected to. The spring works fine too it just doesn't stop the wheel. To see if it was the caliper itself I grabbed a mop handle and pushed on the brake pedal while trying to spin the rotor. It wouldn't budge.
So, the caliper doesn't seem to be seized completely... it's just the ebrake portion of the caliper that doesn't work.
Is the ebrake completely mechanical?... meaning does it completely bypass anything hydraulic and just connect directly to the piston? Or is it just mechanical up to the caliper and at the point use the hydraulic fluid in the caliper to move the piston. Hope that made sense.
I guess what I'm getting at is it possible there is just air in the caliper and a bleed might fix... or do i just need to replace the thing.
Thanks
Parking brake is completely mechanical. If it isn't actuating the caliper piston, you've got an internal mechanical problem.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
just had this problem with the r/rear caliper. it works when depressing the pedal (stops the wheel), but not when pulling the handle up. i removed the caliper from the bracket & let it hang down, then depressed the pedal with a long rod, while watching the caliper. oh yeah, the car was on a lift. there was a very small movement, out & in. i then used the caliper tool to turn the piston out & in a couple of times. then depressed the pedal again, this time there was more out & in movement. remounted the caliper, pulled the handle and it held like it's should. i did check for cable movement first...it moved. this had the added benefit of giving a firmer pedal feel. so i'll probably be replacing the rear caliper again if this gets mushy again.
werid i have a slightly relevant question, i was changing my tires today and on my rear passenger side the brake was normal, changed it. then i moved to the drivers side. and the ebrake line isent even connected to the brake lever system. i do not have pictures currently but the little hoop is not attached to the metal clip. i shrug it off and release my ebrake and go back to pull it on somehow. but the line wont budge. is there a release or do i need to play hide and seek with a stuck brake line?
werid i have a slightly relevant question, i was changing my tires today and on my rear passenger side the brake was normal, changed it. then i moved to the drivers side. and the ebrake line isent even connected to the brake lever system. i do not have pictures currently but the little hoop is not attached to the metal clip. i shrug it off and release my ebrake and go back to pull it on somehow. but the line wont budge. is there a release or do i need to play hide and seek with a stuck brake line?
It's possible that it's seized up in there. Maybe the PO disconnected the cable, who knows.
Have you tried pulling with a tool, to see if you can free it up?
Checked the outside shroud of the cable for damage? Most likely it'd be right where it runs along the trailing arm.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
i had to go to school so i didnt have time to investigate for more than a minute. ill use some sort of tool to get some levrage tomarrow. ill try and losen up the line using the bolt on the handle before that though. try to get some slack on the lines.
PO? previous owner?
if so i thought of that to, but as i said no time today to fool around with my brake system hah.
It's possible that it's seized up in there. Maybe the PO disconnected the cable, who knows.
Have you tried pulling with a tool, to see if you can free it up?
Checked the outside shroud of the cable for damage? Most likely it'd be right where it runs along the trailing arm.
I have the same problem. The one that goes to my passenger side wheel is most definitely seized, however I can't find it. I followed the shroud the entire way and it isn't damaged at all. Does anyone have any ideas on what could seize one of the cables like this? Any tips on how to try and free it or do I probably just need a whole new cable?
or is there anything else that could be wrong with it?
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