Welding Front Core Support
04-14-2008, 04:54 PM
#1
Welding Front Core Support
First of all before anyone climbs my frame, YES I have been reading up on this and searching ever since i joined the org.
Now, my question is, what is your guys' opinion on welding the front core support vs replacing the bottom support? my 97 isnt terrible, but its at the point that i dont want to stress it too much. couple guys i know work for alcoa and are professional welders, so i feel pretty confident about the welding job, but in my mind its kind of using a band aid when stitches are needed. but whats going to happen is that there will be a new steel plate fabricated that is 20" and wide enough to make the fold up the front, and the old rust cleaned off, motor mount detatched and lowered, new plate put in, remount motor mounts, and weld new plate. i think this would be a lot easier than taking the whole thing apart and new piece put in, but still in my mind its kinda like half assing it here. so what would you guys do?
Now, my question is, what is your guys' opinion on welding the front core support vs replacing the bottom support? my 97 isnt terrible, but its at the point that i dont want to stress it too much. couple guys i know work for alcoa and are professional welders, so i feel pretty confident about the welding job, but in my mind its kind of using a band aid when stitches are needed. but whats going to happen is that there will be a new steel plate fabricated that is 20" and wide enough to make the fold up the front, and the old rust cleaned off, motor mount detatched and lowered, new plate put in, remount motor mounts, and weld new plate. i think this would be a lot easier than taking the whole thing apart and new piece put in, but still in my mind its kinda like half assing it here. so what would you guys do?
04-14-2008, 05:41 PM
#2
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
After the front end is dissembled, it would only take a body shop an hour or two to cut and weld in a new OE part. Is all the time spend to fabricate an a/m part worth it?
04-14-2008, 07:07 PM
#4
if i do it myself and replace the part, the part is 116$ plus whatever the welders want (since i know them, it would be minimal), drill bits and time.
to just weld a metal plate on it, i dunno. next to nothin since its scraps from alcoa they are picking up for me.
to just weld a metal plate on it, i dunno. next to nothin since its scraps from alcoa they are picking up for me.
04-14-2008, 07:31 PM
#6
yea, thats the way im leaning towards. i might as well just pull the damn thing and do it right.
any other input is appreciated, and thanks from those who have already chipped in
NM91
any other input is appreciated, and thanks from those who have already chipped in
NM91
04-15-2008, 07:17 AM
#8
There is...
...and in the first thread, you can see I already tried the "weld in" method. I am a good welder, just the fact: If you do not completely remove the rust and treat the area, Rust WILL return. 1 year later it did, and I had to replace the support.
Mine
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=support+core
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=404531
Shortyblu's
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=support+core
...and in the first thread, you can see I already tried the "weld in" method. I am a good welder, just the fact: If you do not completely remove the rust and treat the area, Rust WILL return. 1 year later it did, and I had to replace the support.
Mine
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=support+core
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=404531
Shortyblu's
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=support+core
04-15-2008, 08:58 AM
#9
I did a custom lower radiator support on my car. Cut the old rusted piece of crap out of there and put in one that is heavy gauge steel. Much stronger and stiffer (and heavier) than that stamped metal piece of crap that came on the car. If you've got experienced fab guys who can do it, I see no reason not to. Took my fab buddy a couple hours to do the entire thing.
04-15-2008, 09:05 AM
#11
metal is metal, doesn't matter if it has nissan stamped on it or not. what you would need to do is make sure you remove all the corrosion and properly protected the new metal. i'm fairly sure that doing a patch panel correctly would be the more involved of the two.
04-15-2008, 11:51 AM
#12
metal is metal, doesn't matter if it has nissan stamped on it or not. what you would need to do is make sure you remove all the corrosion and properly protected the new metal. i'm fairly sure that doing a patch panel correctly would be the more involved of the two.
For strength and rigity, then custom fabbed would be better.
Last edited by alcatranz518; 05-23-2008 at 11:24 AM.
04-15-2008, 01:47 PM
#14
def better off replacing it instead of putting a band aid on a bullet hole.
what you guys spray or coat it with after you welded the new one in?? i was thinking of hitting mine with the rubberized undercoat they sell in cans at the auto store. any insight?
what you guys spray or coat it with after you welded the new one in?? i was thinking of hitting mine with the rubberized undercoat they sell in cans at the auto store. any insight?
04-15-2008, 04:12 PM
#15
well, went to the local nissan dealer this afternoon, and here's what i found out.
lower support = 161.48
2 new bolts = 2.47
2 new bushings = 4.25
the bolts and bushing prices may be reversed, but none the less its the cost per piece. so looking at 175 before tax. im willing to go a little more just to know that its all OEM. im being particular about this because this is the frame were talking about here after all. so, guess ill head out and start tearing her down. i think in the long run ill be at ease more so that with just welding a plate on. because i know the rust will continue to spread with moisture.
just gotta find a way to get 220 out in the garage!
lower support = 161.48
2 new bolts = 2.47
2 new bushings = 4.25
the bolts and bushing prices may be reversed, but none the less its the cost per piece. so looking at 175 before tax. im willing to go a little more just to know that its all OEM. im being particular about this because this is the frame were talking about here after all. so, guess ill head out and start tearing her down. i think in the long run ill be at ease more so that with just welding a plate on. because i know the rust will continue to spread with moisture.
just gotta find a way to get 220 out in the garage!
04-16-2008, 08:31 AM
#17
All the posts I've seen on this subject people talk of covering or rubberizing the new core support so it does not rust. I believe these core supports are rusting because water gets trapped inside the core support. It is not due to rocks or external damage. Adding holes to the bottom of the core support so the water can drain may do more to extend the life of the core support then covering it. .
04-16-2008, 04:58 PM
#19
all right. got it stripped down to the support. will probably start drilling out welds here soo. anyone have any idea as to how many there are, and general locations? i have found most of them, but dont want to drill out unneccesary welds. my main concern is are there any by the condensor? im leaving everything in the car. condensor, radiator, and for now PS cooler. thats easy enough that if i have to ill take it out.
04-16-2008, 05:23 PM
#20
my support is GREAT! and yes world parts express is OEM nissan parts only. Have fun drilling those welds out, omfg did it suck!!! Trust me there hidden everywhere and some you cant really get a drill bit to so you need to pry and rip the metal away. You should get the point after you cant remove it when you think you got every one. Theres plenty of info on a few threads around about these things being replaced. Youll be tasting metal and or rust by the time your done, thats for sure.
04-17-2008, 11:40 AM
#21
Glad to hear more people are attempting this PITA project.
For the squeemish, I still offer this repair in the Western Chicago Suburbs for $250.00 labor. The last time I called in for the lower core support price it was listed at $125.00 and $17.00 shipping, but prices must have gone up. BTW, if your bolts and bushings are not all rusted or torn up, you can safely reuse them.
See my thread in the Midwest US forum, in the installers section....
Ted
For the squeemish, I still offer this repair in the Western Chicago Suburbs for $250.00 labor. The last time I called in for the lower core support price it was listed at $125.00 and $17.00 shipping, but prices must have gone up. BTW, if your bolts and bushings are not all rusted or torn up, you can safely reuse them.
See my thread in the Midwest US forum, in the installers section....
Ted
04-17-2008, 01:39 PM
#22
Do u pay vendor fees? Dont want to be rude but it gets old each thread that invloves core support your in saying the same thing. If they search they can find you easy enough without reposting it over and over.
04-24-2008, 11:21 PM
#23
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Man I just finished my 4th one today, they're really not bad at all and it takes way longer to weld a brace in there if you want it as good or better than the oem peice, I did the one on my '95 this way and allthough it came out better than factory the fabrication got pretty hardcore. Also, you can leave 90% of the parts alone that you wouldn't expect to, except for the radiator only because it's very easy to damage it if the tab on the bottom breaks off, I learned that lesson...... than forgot it...... than learned it again!
Anyways, yeah you can leave in the headlights, a/c condensor, etc etc. Pretty much the splasjsheilds, bumpers, "stays" (mounts for the bumper reinforcment, aka the real bumper), and radiator will need to come out and the rest can stay, even the power steering cooler. You just have to get creative with tool usage to get the very few lengthwise pinch welds because you can't drill at an angle.
Anyways, yeah you can leave in the headlights, a/c condensor, etc etc. Pretty much the splasjsheilds, bumpers, "stays" (mounts for the bumper reinforcment, aka the real bumper), and radiator will need to come out and the rest can stay, even the power steering cooler. You just have to get creative with tool usage to get the very few lengthwise pinch welds because you can't drill at an angle.
Last edited by KRRZ350; 04-25-2008 at 05:57 AM.
04-25-2008, 10:04 AM
#28
yea its a good idea to tie or bungy the radiator up. The condensor doesnt really matter because its got hard lines so its not like it will go anywhere. Just be careful when your aligning the new core support because theres also tabs on that, that need to line up with holes on the support.
04-25-2008, 10:14 AM
#29
Have it welded! I had my car welded just like 2 days ago! it looks great! if your car is worth keeping, by all means do it, its the hardest part of the front end, but it can def. be done
04-25-2008, 10:29 AM
#30
yea its a good idea to tie or bungy the radiator up. The condensor doesnt really matter because its got hard lines so its not like it will go anywhere. Just be careful when your aligning the new core support because theres also tabs on that, that need to line up with holes on the support.
i didnt mean tie the front end on. that would be a death wish! yes. its going to be professionally welded when i get the new aligned up.
04-25-2008, 04:24 PM
#31
05-17-2008, 06:20 PM
#32
hey guys, instead of starting a new thread, ill just use my old one, but after about 2 weeks of dealing with world parts express and DHL, the first supprot they sent got damaged in shipping and just got the new one yesterday. Question is, how do you get the damn welds off the sides on the inside, facing the condensor? im guessing sawzall is the best, but i dont want to damage any of the metal i need to keep with the saw. Is it the best way, or the easiest way. i got 4 out of the six drilled and freed up, but there are 2 left the the drill wont stay because its too agressive of an angle. Im only asking because i diont have a sawzall readily available. any thoughts?
05-17-2008, 08:50 PM
#34
genius. thanks man. never thought to take a cut off wheel in there and grind on the weld just enough for what i need. better still i could take an air grinder and get it even faster. ( i know. i have and air-compressor and tools, but no sawzall. strange aint it??)
itll be monday and after, but ill keep y'all posted. . .
itll be monday and after, but ill keep y'all posted. . .
05-19-2008, 08:23 PM
#35
ALL RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!! I'm kinda on an accomplishment high right now, BUT ITS OFF!!!! ITS OFF!!! And man, im tired too. Overall, 8 hrs over 3 days (took my time as to not screw anything up and to make sure i got ALL the welds), only the original 4 drill bits i started with, air compressor and air grinder, and drilling/grinding 32 welds on each side of the car, so 64 total, and really, 128 cuz i drilled pilots as well. so for those who want an exact count, there are 64 welds that have to be drilled total. I'll be cleaning and grinding some more the rest of the week to prep it for welding so if all goes well, i could have it back driveable next week!
Oh, get this, I DIDNT HAVE TO USE A SAWZALL!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the help everyone, but im sure its not over yet, but who knows.
Oh, before i forget, it is suggested to disconnect the ECU before welding on it, right? I'll search to find out how if i need to disconnect it.
NM91
Oh, get this, I DIDNT HAVE TO USE A SAWZALL!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the help everyone, but im sure its not over yet, but who knows.
Oh, before i forget, it is suggested to disconnect the ECU before welding on it, right? I'll search to find out how if i need to disconnect it.
NM91
06-01-2008, 05:48 AM
#37
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Kitchener On.
Posts: 44
ECU being un-plugged = http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=103
06-01-2008, 06:01 AM
#38
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Kitchener On.
Posts: 44
I brought my new 97 (up to 3 maxima's now) to Crappy Tire for the Ontario provincial safety... and they failed me for the rust on my lower rad support... and mine wasn't as bad as half the photos here.
Mechanic said he wanted it replaced, not repaired... and I plan on having it done within the 10 day re-inspection time as to not lose my $90. He also went all **** and picked out a tiny crack in the tail light lens and a lack of battery strap (although its clipped into the tray??).
For all thoes who think it's rotting because the moisture not getting out from the hollows... what about stuffing it full of expandable foam and making it solid?!
I am thinking of doing that...
Mechanic said he wanted it replaced, not repaired... and I plan on having it done within the 10 day re-inspection time as to not lose my $90. He also went all **** and picked out a tiny crack in the tail light lens and a lack of battery strap (although its clipped into the tray??).
For all thoes who think it's rotting because the moisture not getting out from the hollows... what about stuffing it full of expandable foam and making it solid?!
I am thinking of doing that...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dvcamp
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
7
09-18-2015 10:17 AM