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time chain tensioner again or what?

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Old 03-13-2008, 06:32 PM
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time chain tensioner again or what?

my timing chain starting rubbing when i take off from a dead stop. if i take off real light (like about 1500rpm) i dont hear anything, but when take off at about 2400rpm or more, i can hear the chain rubbing/grinding while its in rotation. when ever my speed builds up and my tranny shifts up and the rpm drops under 2400rpm(cruising) the noise goes away.

i bought a timing chain tensioner from autozone changed it..... it was a PITA because the chain seemed a lil tight but i got it in and the noise stopped for about a week and a half. it came back. its not as bad as before but i still hear it when i take off at 2500rpm or more.

you guys have any suggestions?
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Old 03-14-2008, 05:19 AM
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dealing with a simmilar issue here as well. I have a new TC tensioner to put in, will get done this weekend. my TC is just plain loud in general. I just did my water pump and had the tensioner off for that, upon restart I got that make ya cringe sound like what is normal ... but the chain still seems a bit loud. I'll have to see if it's still that loud after the new tensioner is on. (also from AutoZone)

Do the chain guides ever really need to be replaced in our cars? Need Dgeesman or Pmohr in on this .... If so, you think doing the tensioner was a PITA! well .... the guide would be OH so much fun
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Old 04-22-2008, 05:38 PM
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I`m no and can`t start a thread yet.

I recently developed a lot of timing chain chatter in my 95 SE. After changing oil and checking oil pressure, I pulled out the tensioner to take a look at it and the chain. Both looked fine. You will get some obnoxious chatter after reinstalling the tensioner. When you pull the tensioner out you let air in behind it and you have to clear this air to build oil pressure on the tensioner again. It's normal. The FSM makes a note of it but they neglect to tell you exactly how bad it is at first nor how long it lasts. It eventually tamed down but it still chatters pretty bad. I`m trying now to pull the TC cover off.

So my question is: Is removal of the upper oil pan necessary to get the TC cover off? I have everything detached from the cover and all the bolts out but it will not budge from the crankcase at the bottom. I`m wondering now if it locks into the oil pan somehow. The FSM does say to remove the oil pans, but it also says to remove a lot of other items that is not absolutely necessary. I`m looking for some confirmation before I go pry harder or cry cause I gotta drop the engine basically....
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JtzMax
Do the chain guides ever really need to be replaced in our cars? Need Dgeesman or Pmohr in on this .... If so, you think doing the tensioner was a PITA! well .... the guide would be OH so much fun
Heh, never even saw this. Not unless it was wearing oddly, but in all of the VQs I've torn apart (and the blown ones I've seen in pieces around the shop), never seen a badly worn chain guide. The guide would probably be about a day's job (or two) for a first timer, after you learn the tricks and where all of the bolts are, 4 or 5 hours maybe (in the car).

Originally Posted by Boltsniper
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I`m no and can`t start a thread yet.

I recently developed a lot of timing chain chatter in my 95 SE. After changing oil and checking oil pressure, I pulled out the tensioner to take a look at it and the chain. Both looked fine. You will get some obnoxious chatter after reinstalling the tensioner. When you pull the tensioner out you let air in behind it and you have to clear this air to build oil pressure on the tensioner again. It's normal. The FSM makes a note of it but they neglect to tell you exactly how bad it is at first nor how long it lasts. It eventually tamed down but it still chatters pretty bad. I`m trying now to pull the TC cover off.

So my question is: Is removal of the upper oil pan necessary to get the TC cover off? I have everything detached from the cover and all the bolts out but it will not budge from the crankcase at the bottom. I`m wondering now if it locks into the oil pan somehow. The FSM does say to remove the oil pans, but it also says to remove a lot of other items that is not absolutely necessary. I`m looking for some confirmation before I go pry harder or cry cause I gotta drop the engine basically....
Negative, front cover only requires removal of the lower oil pan (2x12mm head bolts that lead through the upper pan into the front cover). You'll need a good 6" or 9" extension and 12mm socket, you can pretty much see the 'bulges' in the upper oil pan where there's clearance for a socket to remove those two bolts

After that, the front cover may very well be seized up on the two dowels (or very hard to get off of them). Granted, it's hard to get a good pry point with the engine in the car, but there are two good places to pry from ~.5 inches above each dowel, on each side of the motor.
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:18 PM
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That's exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks! I`ll pull the lower (steel) oil pan off and give it another go. Also thanks for the tips on where to pry from.

Edit: Worked like a charm. Probably would have taken me a little while to figure that out. Cover off. New chain, slack guide, and tensioner on. Thanks for the help

Last edited by Boltsniper; 04-22-2008 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 04-22-2008, 11:07 PM
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guess it needs tightning. ? ?
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:43 AM
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cheater! you did the tensioner with the cover off, where's the fun in that? LOL
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:21 PM
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Hello,
I want to remove the TC copover.
how to support the engine if I remove the engine mount + lower oil pan?
Can I use a wood 2x6 + jack to support underneath the upper oil pan?
Thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by td97
Hello,
I want to remove the TC copover.
how to support the engine if I remove the engine mount + lower oil pan?
Can I use a wood 2x6 + jack to support underneath the upper oil pan?
Thanks
No need to support the engine, the other three mounts will hold it up just fine.
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