Write up: transmission clutch flywheel install - pic intensive
03-03-2008, 05:30 PM
#1
Write up: transmission clutch flywheel install - pic intensive
-step by step for dummies!
EDIT: a link to JtzMax's extremely good write up on a 5spd tranny rebuild for those interested in digging deeper: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....121&highlight=
Alright everyone, this last weekend I did some major work to my car.
96 SE 5 Speed VQ30DE
History:
Since last fall when I got my maxima, the axle seals were shot and would leak the tranny fluid. So the car has been driven since October and probably even longer with minimum oil in the tranny. This, obviously, killed all the bearings in the tranny, and also leaked oil into the clutch housing so it also killed my clutch. Despite this, I continued to drive her like that until now. The whole time I knew I was making the problem worse but I didn’t care because the tranny was already bad when I bought it and I had a spare 5 speed tranny from my old car with no issues.
Now I have been planning this swap for quite some time, and I figured since I am digging in there, along with replacing the clutch, I also would install a lightened flywheel (Stillen). So, now with the writeup.
Parts that I replaced:
-OEM Axle Seals: 38342-81X00 (driver side) 38342-81X01 (passenger side)
-Throwout Bearing
-Clutch (I used a 5th gen setup)
-Stillen Lightened Flywheel
-And obviously a tranny. I used my old ’95 tranny with 108k. (My current car has 180k)
-AND….Amsoil synthetic GL-4 tranny fluid. Pricey but recommended. Bought from talkinghorse (Ed) in the group deals. Great service.
Alright, step by step removal down to the tranny. First may I note that I think I did this with removing the least amount of stuff possible. I left the crossmember on and y-pipe on. Removing these will obviously make removing the tranny easier but is optional. PS: if you remove the cross member you will need to support the engine.
Step One:
Start draining the fluid. Draining the tranny fluid takes a long time so start with this right away. I didn’t and I had to wait for while. This pic shows the bolt that is removed to do this.
Step Two:
Remove the driver side wheel.
Step Three:
Remove the caliper. My 300zx calipers were held on by 2 17mm bolts in the back. Use a wire or zip tie to hold them on the springs so they don’t hang by the brake line.
Step Four:
Remove the Rotors. Mine just slid right off.
EDIT: a link to JtzMax's extremely good write up on a 5spd tranny rebuild for those interested in digging deeper: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....121&highlight=
Alright everyone, this last weekend I did some major work to my car.
96 SE 5 Speed VQ30DE
History:
Since last fall when I got my maxima, the axle seals were shot and would leak the tranny fluid. So the car has been driven since October and probably even longer with minimum oil in the tranny. This, obviously, killed all the bearings in the tranny, and also leaked oil into the clutch housing so it also killed my clutch. Despite this, I continued to drive her like that until now. The whole time I knew I was making the problem worse but I didn’t care because the tranny was already bad when I bought it and I had a spare 5 speed tranny from my old car with no issues.
Now I have been planning this swap for quite some time, and I figured since I am digging in there, along with replacing the clutch, I also would install a lightened flywheel (Stillen). So, now with the writeup.
Parts that I replaced:
-OEM Axle Seals: 38342-81X00 (driver side) 38342-81X01 (passenger side)
-Throwout Bearing
-Clutch (I used a 5th gen setup)
-Stillen Lightened Flywheel
-And obviously a tranny. I used my old ’95 tranny with 108k. (My current car has 180k)
-AND….Amsoil synthetic GL-4 tranny fluid. Pricey but recommended. Bought from talkinghorse (Ed) in the group deals. Great service.
Alright, step by step removal down to the tranny. First may I note that I think I did this with removing the least amount of stuff possible. I left the crossmember on and y-pipe on. Removing these will obviously make removing the tranny easier but is optional. PS: if you remove the cross member you will need to support the engine.
Step One:
Start draining the fluid. Draining the tranny fluid takes a long time so start with this right away. I didn’t and I had to wait for while. This pic shows the bolt that is removed to do this.
Step Two:
Remove the driver side wheel.
Step Three:
Remove the caliper. My 300zx calipers were held on by 2 17mm bolts in the back. Use a wire or zip tie to hold them on the springs so they don’t hang by the brake line.
Step Four:
Remove the Rotors. Mine just slid right off.
Last edited by black_maxed95; 03-03-2008 at 06:26 PM.
03-03-2008, 05:30 PM
#2
Step Five:
Now remove the cotterpin and the washer behind it. Use a pliers.
Step Six:
Remove the 36mm axle nut. Impact gun is strongly recommended. There is also a washer behind it so keep track of that too.
Step Seven:
Disconnect the hub from the struts. It is a 19mm nut on a 17mm bolt.
Step Eight:
Now pull the hub off of the axle. I also used a hammer to help start push the axle out. I again used a ziptie to hang the hub from the strut so it would not pull the ABS line tight.
Now to attack from under the hood. Here is my engine compartment before doing anything. Mostly a mess, I know.
Now remove the cotterpin and the washer behind it. Use a pliers.
Step Six:
Remove the 36mm axle nut. Impact gun is strongly recommended. There is also a washer behind it so keep track of that too.
Step Seven:
Disconnect the hub from the struts. It is a 19mm nut on a 17mm bolt.
Step Eight:
Now pull the hub off of the axle. I also used a hammer to help start push the axle out. I again used a ziptie to hang the hub from the strut so it would not pull the ABS line tight.
Now to attack from under the hood. Here is my engine compartment before doing anything. Mostly a mess, I know.
Last edited by black_maxed95; 03-03-2008 at 06:11 PM.
03-03-2008, 05:31 PM
#3
Step Nine:
Remove the intake. Disconnect the vac hoses, MAF and air temp plugs, and disconnect from the throttle body.
Step Ten:
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Step Eleven:
Remove the Starter. This involves disconnecting the big positive cable and the other connector. Then unbolt the 14mm and 17mm bolts.
Step Twelve:
Remove the slave cylinder. This was held on I think by two 14mm bolts. They are hard to get at so I had to use a wrench. Then also remove the ground wire that is bolted right next to where the slave cylinder is.
Step Thirteen:
Remove the tranny mount. First remove the long bolt that goes through it. Then the 4 bolts that hold it onto the tranny. Also notice the oil everywhere?...no wonder there is none in my tranny...it is instead all over everything else!
Remove the intake. Disconnect the vac hoses, MAF and air temp plugs, and disconnect from the throttle body.
Step Ten:
Remove the battery and battery tray.
Step Eleven:
Remove the Starter. This involves disconnecting the big positive cable and the other connector. Then unbolt the 14mm and 17mm bolts.
Step Twelve:
Remove the slave cylinder. This was held on I think by two 14mm bolts. They are hard to get at so I had to use a wrench. Then also remove the ground wire that is bolted right next to where the slave cylinder is.
Step Thirteen:
Remove the tranny mount. First remove the long bolt that goes through it. Then the 4 bolts that hold it onto the tranny. Also notice the oil everywhere?...no wonder there is none in my tranny...it is instead all over everything else!
Last edited by black_maxed95; 03-03-2008 at 06:32 PM.
03-03-2008, 05:31 PM
#4
Step Fouteen:
Inorder to access a few tranny bolts, it is also necasary to remove the shifter linkages/rods from the tranny. It is ok to let them hang from where they connect to the shifter. Also 1 of these bolts is a pain to get at with out taking off the cross member but I did it with a wrench.
(sorry no pics of this)
Step Fouteen point five:
Also make sure the crank position sensor on the tranny is unplugged and the gear sensor is unplugged. I removed the crank position sensor completely.
Step Fifteen:
Now you should have everything off of the tranny. So now remove all the bolts holding the tranny onto the engine. There should be 8 since one was already taken off with the starter and one with the shifter rod. KEEP TRACK OF THE BOLTS! There are different sizes, what I did was I drew a picture of a circle and placed the bolts on the circle relative to each other on the tranny. 2 of the bolts on the bottom of the tranny I could not completely remove with the cross member still on, but I didn't need to since they were completely unthreaded from the tranny. Once all the bolts are out its time to take off the tranny. What I did which isn’t recommended as the best, was place a jack under the tranny (but not pushing up on it) and then I used a screw driver to pry it from the engine. Then with the tranny sitting on the jack, I lowered it down. This isn’t recommended cause it is very hard to balance a tranny on the jack.
Step Fifteen:
Remove the clutch. It is held on by I think 10 12mm bolts IIRC.
Step Sixteen:
Remove your flywheel. This is held on by 8 14mm bolts. I used an impact gun with a 14mm impact socket. These bolts are very tight and using a ratchet is difficult unless you can effectively stop the flywheel from rotating.
Step Seventeen:
Assemble lightened flywheel from stock ring gear, timing gear, and the stillen piece.
Step Eighteen:
Reassemble everything in reverse order, making sure to torque everything to spec and to replace the axle seals, and then refill with 4.8ish quarts of tranny fluid. DO NOT use an impact gun to install the flywheel and clutch onto the engine. These bolts are weak and can break...don't ask me how I know.
Edit: Thanks to nismology for pointing this out, when refilling the tranny, do it with the car level on the ground and refill until oil comes out of the refill hole (It takes approx 4.8 quarts)
Other notes…reinstalling the tranny was a major PITA since it’s so heavy. I recommend using a tranny jack. If you don’t have a tranny jack and if you aren’t super buff, you should remove the passenger side axle. It’s the same steps as the driver side with the addition of removing 3 bolts for the bracket that holds the axle to the engine.
Hope this helps for someone who wishes to install a new flywheel, clutch, and/or tranny. BTW This is just a description of how I did it, I’m not responsible if you jack your **** up!!!
End Notes/Impressions:
May I now also say that it is AMAZING to drive a car with a tranny that doesn't sound like it is grinding. Also alot of people have opinions on the lightened flywheel. Ive heard people saying its worthless, adds no power, causes your car to stall at idle...etc. My opinion: The thing is great, may not be the best bang for the buck, but if you are replacing your clutch, you might as well do the flywheel too...It adds an incredible amount of acceleration in first and second gear. 3rd gear maybe a little more acceleration but 4rd and 5th I couldn't feel anything though. The car still drives very smooth and has no idle issues. The flywheel may not add a considerable amount of HP, but it does allow you to get into the peak of the power band quicker.
Hopefully this might make it into the stickies and my name will go down in maxima.org history (lol) but everything I did was thanks mostly to the FSM and motorvate.ca, a great DYI site.
Last edited by black_maxed95; 03-03-2008 at 06:35 PM.
03-03-2008, 05:39 PM
#5
2 things stick out.
1. The driver side brake assembly doesn't need to be removed.
2. The tranny should never be filled using a set number of quarts. It should be filled with the car down on all 4 wheels on level ground and filled until the moment fluid starts to come out.
Other than that, looks good.
P.S. Using locktite on the flywheel-to-crank bolts is also a good idea.
1. The driver side brake assembly doesn't need to be removed.
2. The tranny should never be filled using a set number of quarts. It should be filled with the car down on all 4 wheels on level ground and filled until the moment fluid starts to come out.
Other than that, looks good.
P.S. Using locktite on the flywheel-to-crank bolts is also a good idea.
Last edited by nismology; 03-03-2008 at 05:42 PM.
03-03-2008, 05:50 PM
#6
2 things stick out.
1. The driver side brake assembly doesn't need to be removed.
2. The tranny should never be filled using a set number of quarts. It should be filled with the car down on all 4 wheels on level ground and filled until the moment fluid starts to come out.
Other than that, looks good.
P.S. Using locktite on the flywheel-to-crank bolts is also a good idea.
1. The driver side brake assembly doesn't need to be removed.
2. The tranny should never be filled using a set number of quarts. It should be filled with the car down on all 4 wheels on level ground and filled until the moment fluid starts to come out.
Other than that, looks good.
P.S. Using locktite on the flywheel-to-crank bolts is also a good idea.
1) True. I think removing it makes getting the axle out easier though. It was only an extra 2 bolts. But also leaving the brake assembly on reduces the risk of needing to bleed the brakes. (I accidently lost some brake fluid doing it)
2)Oh ya, forgot that detail. That is important. I did do it that way but forgot and I just recalled the FSM number off the top of my head. I'm going to edit that in there.
Last edited by black_maxed95; 03-03-2008 at 06:07 PM.
03-03-2008, 06:10 PM
#7
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7
hi, wow that is a great write up. I am going to be replacing my clutch soon mand I will definately use this. Was it your axle seals that were letting the gear oil leak on to the clutch and making it slip. I think my output shaft seal is leaking on to my clutch disk. I have a sears craftsman atv jack that should work great for moving the trans. How do you like the stillen clutch. Do you have to rev the engine higher when you are letting out the clutch. I was wondering if it makes the car feel less torqey.
Now I need to make a list of all the seals that I show replace and pick out a clutch. I really want something that is going to last but also is easy on my left foot. I have heard about these racing clutches that make it so hard to push in the clutch. I definately do not need that. Did you buy a factory clutch or just oem replacement from autoparts store like autozone. Since you used the newer style clutch was there are mods needed or does it just bolt right up.
Now I need to make a list of all the seals that I show replace and pick out a clutch. I really want something that is going to last but also is easy on my left foot. I have heard about these racing clutches that make it so hard to push in the clutch. I definately do not need that. Did you buy a factory clutch or just oem replacement from autoparts store like autozone. Since you used the newer style clutch was there are mods needed or does it just bolt right up.
03-03-2008, 06:23 PM
#9
hi, wow that is a great write up. I am going to be replacing my clutch soon mand I will definately use this. Was it your axle seals that were letting the gear oil leak on to the clutch and making it slip. I think my output shaft seal is leaking on to my clutch disk. I have a sears craftsman atv jack that should work great for moving the trans. How do you like the stillen clutch. Do you have to rev the engine higher when you are letting out the clutch. I was wondering if it makes the car feel less torqey.
Now I need to make a list of all the seals that I show replace and pick out a clutch. I really want something that is going to last but also is easy on my left foot. I have heard about these racing clutches that make it so hard to push in the clutch. I definately do not need that. Did you buy a factory clutch or just oem replacement from autoparts store like autozone. Since you used the newer style clutch was there are mods needed or does it just bolt right up.
Now I need to make a list of all the seals that I show replace and pick out a clutch. I really want something that is going to last but also is easy on my left foot. I have heard about these racing clutches that make it so hard to push in the clutch. I definately do not need that. Did you buy a factory clutch or just oem replacement from autoparts store like autozone. Since you used the newer style clutch was there are mods needed or does it just bolt right up.
As far as how the oil got into my clutch housing, I do not exactly know. I know for sure oil leaked out of the passenger axle seal but since I replaced the tranny completely, I did not take it apart and inspect the interior. The two seals I listed at the top are the only 2 seals you will need, unless you rebuild your current transmission.
03-04-2008, 09:55 AM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7
my transmission is good so I am not going to take that apart. My maxima is my daily driver so I think I will use the same clutch and I am going to look into that stillen flywheel. About how much are they going for. As far as the flywheel and clutch I just want to keep it so it is not anoying to drive it everyday. Does the clutch pedal feel the same or is it harder or easier to push in.
03-04-2008, 09:59 AM
#11
If you are taking the transmission off you might as well replace the clutch too since they do wear out over time. The stillen flywheel I bought used for about $200. New they cost around $400. You can buy fidanzas on ebay for $300 new which is what i would have done if I didnt go used. As far as the clutch pedal feel, I didnt notice any difference worth mentioning.
03-04-2008, 10:28 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lowell/Boston, MA
Posts: 1,613
good pics and decent write up... Thanks (brings back the old days when I did trannis on fwd v6s)... but just wondering, What 300ZX cailpers work for our cars? I need new rear calipers... Would 300ZX ones fit?
Does a 300ZX caliper help that much with our stock Master cly?
Everybody loves my brakes and they think that I put in a big brake kit cause of the increased stopping power, when I just put brembos in and axxis pads.
Does a 300ZX caliper help that much with our stock Master cly?
Everybody loves my brakes and they think that I put in a big brake kit cause of the increased stopping power, when I just put brembos in and axxis pads.
Last edited by S1cTech; 03-04-2008 at 10:31 AM.
03-04-2008, 10:42 AM
#13
good pics and decent write up... Thanks (brings back the old days when I did trannis on fwd v6s)... but just wondering, What 300ZX cailpers work for our cars? I need new rear calipers... Would 300ZX ones fit?
Does a 300ZX caliper help that much with our stock Master cly?
Everybody loves my brakes and they think that I put in a big brake kit cause of the increased stopping power, when I just put brembos in and axxis pads.
Does a 300ZX caliper help that much with our stock Master cly?
Everybody loves my brakes and they think that I put in a big brake kit cause of the increased stopping power, when I just put brembos in and axxis pads.
03-04-2008, 06:26 PM
#17
it can be done like that ... but you risk F'n up the seal when re-installing it. good write up tho .... and I agree with Nis, no need to remove the calliper, just an extra step. I tried a jack ... but found it much easier to just man up and show that beotch who was boss! lol
03-10-2008, 04:13 PM
#21
no you dont need to bleed the clutch. I needed to bleed the brakes afterwards but that was only cause i messed up when taking them off. But like noted, the brakes dont need to be taken off. So if all goes well, the answer is no, you dont need to bleed anything.
03-10-2008, 10:57 PM
#23
Agreed, passenger axle can be left in, but it's more PITA with it there. And no, you don't have to be super buff to put the tranny back in. Stand in front of the car, lean forward and support yourself so you're not using much back muscle, grab into starter hole and pull up. It's equivalent to doing a low row at the gym. I'm by no means strong at 6'1" and 130lb, doing 135lb PR in the low row machine. But this's the quickest way to get the tranny back in. I did it this way cuz I spent too much time using a standard jack, then a tranny jack, and neither was easy.
Dr J
Dr J
03-11-2008, 12:35 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lowell/Boston, MA
Posts: 1,613
Did you have enough time to show the clutch procedure too? You covered almost everything except that... And the fact that flywheels should be resurfaced or replaced... And clutches can be put on backwards too, Not sure if this is the same on maximas but on every other car it is. And there is a mark or something that shows the correct way on most clutches, but some ppl miss it because the clutch looks the same and fits the same on both sides... Just thought I would mention that.
03-11-2008, 01:08 AM
#25
Agreed, passenger axle can be left in, but it's more PITA with it there. And no, you don't have to be super buff to put the tranny back in. Stand in front of the car, lean forward and support yourself so you're not using much back muscle, grab into starter hole and pull up. It's equivalent to doing a low row at the gym. I'm by no means strong at 6'1" and 130lb, doing 135lb PR in the low row machine. But this's the quickest way to get the tranny back in. I did it this way cuz I spent too much time using a standard jack, then a tranny jack, and neither was easy.
Dr J
Dr J
I had to lug around a 5 speed tranny for a bit, I used the starter hole as well (and didn't have any support). 6' 175lbs, it was decently heavy but manageable.
Oh yeah--awesome writeup, dropping a tranny is a pretty daunting job to take on.
03-11-2008, 01:49 AM
#26
Man wish this was out when i had to do my tranny\rear main \clutch.I learned the hard way(trashed old 5spd cause i didnt put enough fluid in it,had to get new one) I agree that leaving the passenger side axle intacted would make it more difficult. it can be a pain sometimes to fully seat the axle in the tranny from either side. but on the other hand it is a pia to get that passenger side out. And it can be a pain also to mate the tranny and the engine with just the row method.(I am about the same body frame 5'10 145lbs)
But to say the least great write up!
But to say the least great write up!
03-11-2008, 10:32 AM
#27
Ya as far as the passenger axle goes, I took the tranny off easily with the passenger still on, but to put the tranny back on, I had to take the passenger axle off first. I was just saying earlier that with a proper tranny jack it could be possible to not take the passenger axle off. And IMO it is very difficult to put the tranny on by yourself with no jack. since we are giving body size...im 6' at 165lbs and i had to have my dad help me.
03-12-2008, 05:30 PM
#28
lol guys u guys are nothing compared to me lol 6'5" at 326lbs(pic on bottom is from Hot Import Nights on 03-08-07) but anyways, im going to have 2 guys helping me anyways, just in case.........black_maxed95, how long did it take you to do everything? cause i got the shop for 2 days only. and i gotta replace my valve cover seals
03-13-2008, 02:57 AM
#29
lol guys u guys are nothing compared to me lol 6'5" at 326lbs(pic on bottom is from Hot Import Nights on 03-08-07) but anyways, im going to have 2 guys helping me anyways, just in case.........black_maxed95, how long did it take you to do everything? cause i got the shop for 2 days only. and i gotta replace my valve cover seals
07-24-2008, 11:56 PM
#32
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 14
flywheel torque spec help
I going to do a flywheel and clutch install on the weekend on my 98 Maxima SE. It seems that we have a 2 piece flywheel. I have a flywheel replacement but it is the inner part that attaches to the section of the flywheel that has the ring gear on it. I was wondering if anyone could provide the torque specs on that piece. I have the flywheel to crank specs and for the clutch.
The section I am referring to is between #15 and the ring gear section. It has 9 bolts to attach it and I require the specs for that. My manual I got online seems to not have that information in it. Thanks. JS
I have the part that is similar to the one in the top right hand corner.
The section I am referring to is between #15 and the ring gear section. It has 9 bolts to attach it and I require the specs for that. My manual I got online seems to not have that information in it. Thanks. JS
I have the part that is similar to the one in the top right hand corner.
10-12-2009, 10:28 PM
#33
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chandler AZ
Posts: 11
flywheel torque spec help
Im bring this old string to life again. I am still having starting problems on my 97. See 'Crazy Starting Problem' thread.
I need some help! Does anyone know of any specific signal plate (cam reluctor ring) orientation/indexing onto the crank shaft? The Nissan Manual doesn't seem to mention it, Haynes is worthless on this topic. My mechanic wants to drop my tranny and charge me $750. Im thinking not. If I can get some words of advice from folks who have been there done that, it would be greatly appreciated. I have had this tranny out twice and would like to only do this 0 to 1 more time. Im done with this problem and need some help.
Bueller? Anyone?
I need some help! Does anyone know of any specific signal plate (cam reluctor ring) orientation/indexing onto the crank shaft? The Nissan Manual doesn't seem to mention it, Haynes is worthless on this topic. My mechanic wants to drop my tranny and charge me $750. Im thinking not. If I can get some words of advice from folks who have been there done that, it would be greatly appreciated. I have had this tranny out twice and would like to only do this 0 to 1 more time. Im done with this problem and need some help.
Bueller? Anyone?
10-13-2009, 09:28 AM
#34
When I called up junkyards to find used flywheels, they come with the rings attached. You can get them for cheap, I was quoted $5, but shipping sucked cuz of the flywheel weight. You might also check out the Fidanza flywheel thread in the GD forum, cuz I don't think the fidanza's come with the ring. There may be info on orientation there.
Anyways, I have no idea what your question is. But check out this pic:
you'll see the flywheel teeth where the starter contacts. The teeth are just under 1cm wide. If you look really carefully in the pic, there's another set of teeth on the side of the flywheel facing the engine. Those teeth are like 3mm wide. That's the ring I think you're talking about. If you go to your car right now and look at radiator side of where the tranny bell and engine meet, there is a black sensor there. That sensor's some kinda magnet that picks up the ring teeth. I forgot the specific procedure, but if you unplug that sensor, hook up a multi-meter, and crank the engine, it should pulsate.
Anyways, link me to your other thread, or send me PM.
Dr J
Anyways, I have no idea what your question is. But check out this pic:
you'll see the flywheel teeth where the starter contacts. The teeth are just under 1cm wide. If you look really carefully in the pic, there's another set of teeth on the side of the flywheel facing the engine. Those teeth are like 3mm wide. That's the ring I think you're talking about. If you go to your car right now and look at radiator side of where the tranny bell and engine meet, there is a black sensor there. That sensor's some kinda magnet that picks up the ring teeth. I forgot the specific procedure, but if you unplug that sensor, hook up a multi-meter, and crank the engine, it should pulsate.
Anyways, link me to your other thread, or send me PM.
Dr J
10-13-2009, 10:13 AM
#35
When I called up junkyards to find used flywheels, they come with the rings attached. You can get them for cheap, I was quoted $5, but shipping sucked cuz of the flywheel weight. You might also check out the Fidanza flywheel thread in the GD forum, cuz I don't think the fidanza's come with the ring. There may be info on orientation there.
Anyways, I have no idea what your question is. But check out this pic:
you'll see the flywheel teeth where the starter contacts. The teeth are just under 1cm wide. If you look really carefully in the pic, there's another set of teeth on the side of the flywheel facing the engine. Those teeth are like 3mm wide. That's the ring I think you're talking about. If you go to your car right now and look at radiator side of where the tranny bell and engine meet, there is a black sensor there. That sensor's some kinda magnet that picks up the ring teeth. I forgot the specific procedure, but if you unplug that sensor, hook up a multi-meter, and crank the engine, it should pulsate.
Anyways, link me to your other thread, or send me PM.
Dr J
Anyways, I have no idea what your question is. But check out this pic:
you'll see the flywheel teeth where the starter contacts. The teeth are just under 1cm wide. If you look really carefully in the pic, there's another set of teeth on the side of the flywheel facing the engine. Those teeth are like 3mm wide. That's the ring I think you're talking about. If you go to your car right now and look at radiator side of where the tranny bell and engine meet, there is a black sensor there. That sensor's some kinda magnet that picks up the ring teeth. I forgot the specific procedure, but if you unplug that sensor, hook up a multi-meter, and crank the engine, it should pulsate.
Anyways, link me to your other thread, or send me PM.
Dr J
10-13-2009, 10:16 AM
#36
Also, for those looking at this thread, you don't really have to pull off your calipers
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nsmission.html
and if you're doing it yourself, I highly suggest getting a tranny jack
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nsmission.html
and if you're doing it yourself, I highly suggest getting a tranny jack
10-13-2009, 02:27 PM
#39
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chandler AZ
Posts: 11
Write up: transmission clutch flywheel install - pic intensive
All,
Please see the cooresponding thread. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-problem.html I am pulling my hair out on this issue. Can any say for positive that the signal plate has a coorelation to the crank position? It seems very symetrical to me. It seems that all crank holes line up in any clocked position. Is one postion the right one rather than the other 7 possibilities? The parts house suggested looking for a timing mark on the signal plate and lining it up with number one. That sounds logical but is there a specific timing mark that I should be looking for? Keep in mind, the flywheel was replaced, I did not use the old one and cannot reference it as it was returned as a core.
Please see the cooresponding thread. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-problem.html I am pulling my hair out on this issue. Can any say for positive that the signal plate has a coorelation to the crank position? It seems very symetrical to me. It seems that all crank holes line up in any clocked position. Is one postion the right one rather than the other 7 possibilities? The parts house suggested looking for a timing mark on the signal plate and lining it up with number one. That sounds logical but is there a specific timing mark that I should be looking for? Keep in mind, the flywheel was replaced, I did not use the old one and cannot reference it as it was returned as a core.
06-01-2010, 07:03 AM
#40
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 128
Hi there! I'm new to this forum, just picked up a '99 SE 5 speed (obviously). Loving the detail and depth of the discussions going on here. Question: Am I the only one who can't see the pictures in this thread? Any help would be appreciated.