HobHayward

I finally decided to double check the error codes on my ECU as the check engine light has been on for a while now, my dad had insisted that o2 sensors kept going bad and he had given up replacing them, so it wasn't much of an issue, but it turns out the knock sensor has gone bad aswell.

I found this replacement walkthrough: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507 and figured I'd give it a shot. Can anyone point me to the cheapest place to get it, or have any pointers on getting the thing out - it sounds like a serious PITA.

Also, rear o2 sensor, do I need one, or should I not bother, its been passing inspection without it...

NISSANMAXIMA91

iTrader: (1)

My 96 is doing something along those lines. for a while, i kept getting the CEL, and it was always like an O2 sensor along with the knock sensor. I came to find that the KS always tagged itself to something, i.e. the O2's. I've been going to replace the KS, but havent yet to tell if it fixes the issue. i would start with the KS (eBay is the cheapest ranging from $50 up to what Nissan charges new) and let the O2's go until after the KS is replaced and go from there.

watut

I had the same problem. Changed my KS and reset it, another 500 ish k down the road my rear o2 came back on, now its on the way from eBay. the KS sensor throws a ghost code which stays in the ECU but doesnt trigger the CEL, so when something else triggers it and you scan it, it shows up

Double E

It's no picnic to change out but the concept is simple. Unscrew a bolt, tak off the old sensor, replace with new. Be sure to clean the contacts where the wires for the KS bolt up to the block. A couple of bolts secure it and other contacts to the top, front of the engine. I believe the motorvate site has a pic.

Get a swivel, get a small child, get a magnet. Fo me, I had a swivel but I guess it wasn't made with enough knuckles. It would not stay on the bolt when torque was applied. nstead, I used a closed ended wrench to get a grip on it, and then a big daggum screwdriver to wedge the wrench counter clockwide. I had removed the sensors near the mouth of the engine valley too. Use the magnet to retrieve the bolt you'll drop, use a child to get the bolt started back into position. I happened to have small enough hands and wore thin nitrile gloves to do it because there are plenty of sharp edges in there... Get it snugged back down pretty good. There is a specific torque spec the bolt should go to but it's not ridiculous. I got it finger tight, then another half turn.

The real reward was in how much power came back. Using the highest octane I could get, the car was back to work and mileage back to a healthy 23-24 even when I'm hammering on it for the entire tank full.

As long as you're there, remove the throttle body & clean it. That will take care of the sticky throttle, just as you increase engine speed from idle. Be sure to get the replacement gasket from the dealer for $4-$5.00 before you do it. Be careful with the MAF when it comes off, don't drop it. I recommend not to bother cleaning the sensors in the MAF unless you already have a code for it. Just handle it carefully.

Tell us how it goes....

HobHayward

Thanks, I was considering cleaning the throttle body today acctually because I have nothing better to do...

I found a few knock sensors on ebay for $65 shipped, so thats probably what I'll end up getting.

Also - is the rear o2 sensor important enough to replace? I couldn't find one on ebay, only the front sensors.

Thanks for the advice!

ROCKART

iTrader: (23)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=553632

VANGtastic97

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't bother replacing the rear O2 because all it's for is to make sure your cat is working properly.

DCZC

Hi, new to forum, I'm having the same essential issues with my '97 I30. I just too it to get inspected and it's throwing a bank 1 KS, and both o2's on that side, also a vss, and P0600? I need advice,
Thanks in advance!

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

The KS will sometimes also throw other codes most notably o2 codes...Most likely if you replace the KS your o2 codes will go away.

change the KS first than the o2s may resolve themselves.

For your VSS and TCM code, first try tightening the screws on the back of the speedo. If that doesnt work, try then replacing the VSS. After that then you most likely have a wiring issue and something is tripping the CEL.

DCZC

Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated, as to tightening the speedo, are you referring to the cluster, or the VSS at the trans?
Thanks again, ps I'll try the KS first, and update after.

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

There are little screws on the back of the cluster for the speedometer and Tachometer. Tighten those up. They will come loose and will give off bad readings to the ECU thus tripping a code. Also how is your cruise control?

Double E

O2 and KS codes are not related. Fixing one will not fix the other. Fix both & be done with it. DCZC is probably also having some awful fuel mileage.

I also used the $65 KS from fleabay & it was fine. Got all 3 O2 sensors there too. I got the type that included the harness to make it that much easier. The front 2 are tough to get to. The rear O2 is a no-brainer.

DCZC

Thanks, actually the day I bought it I drove ~180 miles and it had half a tank left, in town since has been MUCH WORSE
Thanks for all the help, great board and members. Very helpful! I will update after I receive the KS and Install, I will also be replacing the CEL bulb! the people I bought it from apparently pulled the bulb so I wasnt aware of any codes until I took it to get inspected!

DCZC

Ps to answer earlier question, the tach, speedo, and cruise control were all working fine for the trip. Any more advice is always helpful as I am new to Nissan, much less my Infiniti

Entropy

iTrader: (1)

Just did the rear O2 and Knock Sensor a couple of weeks ago in my car.

If you have a file, I would recommend using it to smooth out some of the edges on your intake manifold. If you feel around in there, you’ll see what I’m talking about. If you don’t have a file – the knurled end of a ratchet will work (and is somewhat easier to use, cause it is round) to knock off some of the rougher spots. When he says your bound to cut your hands on the motorvate site, he isn’t kidding. I have big hands and managed to walk away with a couple of light scrapes and one good one. Didn’t help that it was ten degrees outside and my skin was ready to split on its own.

Anyway, I would also recommend a ratcheting wrench… it made the job a lot easier. It was still a PITA though. Be better if you had a kid around with small hands to “give you a hand”.

DCZC

Thanks again all, in relation to fixing the work of the dishonest people that ownned the car before me, where can you buy the bulbs for the cluster? they say toshiba. I need to replace the CEL bulb that was conveniently "missing"
Thanks!

orange57

so i tried to tackle this guy tonight, my hands hurt like hell, and the bad sensor is still on there. that think is torqued so tight. i was throwing as much weight as i could against it, and it wouldn't budge. it's dark, and my hands hurt like hell, so i quit for tonight. any tips on getting it started?

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

what o2 or KS?

x8ver2007

iTrader: (2)

I read to leave on the wiring and at least 14in extension or a rachet that can adjust. I taped a pipe to swivel rachet so it sticks out long enough as a lever. Also put duct tape inside socket so will stick to loosened bolt.

hot_wax_tree

um the O2 would be throwing the knock because the O2 is telling you how much oxygen is in the exhaust gas in your cat and then tells the engine how to balance out that difference.

there for you wil begin to run rich(more fuel) that would throw a knock sensor.

Madmax66

I'm getting 33 and 34 codes. Guy on ebay has ks for like $35. Not OEM but claims the same. Is this ok or should I just buck up the ^$65 for OEM? Also, found front/left 02 for about $32 from OEM Parts Plus. Has over 6k sales. Or can you recommend better seller/quality? I have a 97'.
Thanks
Mark

nupemaxima

iTrader: (2)

I got an OEM Genuine KS for 69 shipped. Comes in the nissan packing and everything! Forgot the name of the site I got it from but their phone # is 920-686-9688.

Madmax66

Yah, cool..thanks. I may ride out this auction and see how it goes. Looks to be same part, same warranty. Found a SWEET site for misc. parts, too. I've busted 2 passenger mirrors?!!? http://www.carpartswholesale.com though pricing seems better on ebay.

orange57

the knock sensor. my hands still hurt like hell today